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A6 c5 2.4 LPG '98: Difficulty Starting, Low Speed, Chokes on Dynamic Driving, No Errors

goldboyy 13143 5
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  • #1 17474398
    goldboyy
    Level 12  
    Hello,

    for some time now I have had an increasing problem with the audi a6 c5 2.4 lpg from 98.

    After the overnight stop, the car ignites for 3-4 seconds of spinning for 3-4 seconds and goes into very low speed, when I add gas, it immediately goes out, on the next attempt to start it starts immediately and goes to 1200 rpm working steadily, when you try to move it chokes you have to wait about a minute, you can go later, but the car chokes when you try to drive more dynamically (you know the cold engine, so this "dynamic" driving with your head) when the car switches to gas at 30 degrees, it works normally, it has power and drives normally, switching takes place after passing about a kilometer.
    when the car is warm on petrol, it works perfectly, has power, even above 3,000 rpm. works evenly and linearly over the entire rotational range.

    The car does not show any errors after connecting to the vag, except for lambda probe errors (occasional error mixture too rich or too poor) but it has been possible to say since I bought it over a year ago. I replaced the probes with dedicated Bosch.

    For some time I also noticed the hissing from the tank at the fuel filler

    so far I have checked:

    -I disconnected the clamp for 1 hour.

    -I checked the temperature sensor and intake air sensor readings in Vagu: group 4, column 3 and 4, the indications almost differ by 3 degrees.

    -I turned off the gas supply, burned off the gas that remained in the pipes and unplugged the vacuum regulator for the night, leaving the hose loose

    - I replaced the fuel filter under the chassis

    I disconnected the ankle from the evap valve - hissing from the tank, there was an error of this valve in the vagu, but it did not affect the ignition in any way the next day.

    I removed the fuel pump. I put it in a 0.25l jar with gasoline in an open area and connected it to the rectifier, measured the pressure it gives - it came out 3 bar. I do not know if the pressure is not too low, because some sources say that it must be 4 bars, and here it is supposed to be directly supplied from the rectifier and gives "only" 3 bars.

    I always have fuel in the tank at 1/4 as soon as the reserve lights up, I add it.

    I do not know if it is the fuel pump that can cause such difficulties with starting and such bad work when the engine is still cold or is it some other fault?
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  • #2 17474981
    sigwa18
    Level 43  
    Turns out there will be 4 bars. Check if fuel flows back from the regulator, if not, then the pump, if so, then the regulator. Yes, if the pressure is so low, such miracles will happen until the lambda probe gives a signal (heats up) and the ECU does not correct the dose (it will add injection time). When firing on gas in emergency mode, it should also not lead to the above symptoms.
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  • #3 17475101
    goldboyy
    Level 12  
    today I tried to emergency start the car on LPG (outside around 10 degrees)
    I heated the injectors with the dryer and the wires from the volatile phase filter - I have no access to the reducer to reach with the dryer.

    The car did not catch even a moment when I tried an emergency LPG ignition with 3 attempts after about 4 seconds, so I will probably start by replacing the candles with a single-electrode Bosch instead of the ones I have now - iridium denso.

    If it doesn't help, I will follow my colleague Sigwa's instructions. For now, the tank pump with new cable ties and install new candles ...
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  • #4 17475408
    sigwa18
    Level 43  
    Only now I noticed that there is a regulator with a vacuum hose and these 4 bars should be up to the pressure (vacuum) in the manifold. So at idle from 3.3 to 3.5 bar against the atmosphere. Sometimes these regulators like to leak through the diaphragm and feed fuel to the manifold via a vacuum / reference pressure hose. And what is your injection time at idle speed?
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  • #5 17475427
    goldboyy
    Level 12  
    I already have candles, the simplest Bosch, one electrode, I just need to install.

    Buddy, and how to check the injection time in vag 3.11 which is the measuring block and column?

    Today I reinstalled the pump to check with new candles if the problem exists.

    From the chamber where the pump sits, I sucked half a teaspoon of sand and fafrocli with a pear and a tube. Unfortunately, when I was shining a flashlight into these impurities, I saw single particles glowing gold ... were they probably fragments of the brass impeller of the pump?

    My friend regarding the fuel pressure regulator on the engine, as soon as I screw in the candles and make a test run in the morning, I will check immediately, I want to avoid disassembling the engine cover for now, because you have to unscrew the gas injectors because they are located on the engine cover ...
  • #6 18944405
    goldboyy
    Level 12  
    I am sorry that the thread broke without a solution, I think it is worth writing what was the solution, maybe someone will find it useful.
    The solution, however, was to replace the fuel pump, as you can see the pressure of that pump was insufficient.
    Although it was close to the minimum, it turned out to be crucial for starting the car.
    2 years and some 40,000 km have passed since then and the problem does not occur.
    Installed Magneti Marelli replacement for about PLN 170 - the pump itself without a basket.
    When buying a pump, you need to carefully check what pressures are given, because from what I remember, some pumps had lower pressures than required.
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