Audi A6 C5 2.5TDI: VP44 Pump Error, Glow Plug Replacement, Fuel Filter, Fuse 28, VAG 1268

Hello. I did not have time to repair because, in general, sometimes it fired poorly in the morning, frosts came at minus 18 degrees and in the morning it surprised as if for one head. after a few turns he wanted to fire but he died aku. After connecting the wires from the second car, the above-mentioned situation repeated until he suddenly stopped responding at all. It seemed to have no fuel. I checked the glow plugs and replaced three dead ones. Please do not comment on this exchange. In addition, I replaced the fuel filter and bled the 28th fuse first, loosened the screw on the filter until fuel appeared. Pump hoses full with fuel without bubbles. Confident of firing up, I was surprised ... no reaction. One by one, I unscrewed and vented the injector pipes. Here, strangely, it was only after a few seconds of shooting that the fuel appeared, pouring rather than gushing. Error vag 1268 appeared, which I initially deleted, now it cannot be deleted. The rest of the errors, probably resulting from turning the starter until the battery is exhausted, the immo type blocked, etc., could be easily cleared, but the adjuster error 1268 remains and the spring on the clocks began to flash. can not be deleted and by disconnecting the battery. Could I help the pump driver and fired it? How do you bite it? I have the impression, or rather I'm sure there is no fuel pressure on the injectors, the pump in the tank gives it. I will add that two weeks ago I did a complete timing, maybe the pump belt is loose, which is rather excluding? I am charging the battery and will try to spin the last time tomorrow. I no longer have the concept. Help :!!:

Have you been driving it for a long time, maybe someone has already inserted a transistor and it fell?

Already 4 years, not buried.

Probably another one with frozen fuel has come to your trash and poor pump problem. I do not know how it is in Audi, but in Nissan, such a spin on a discharged battery resulted in the immo decoding.

Problem solved. I opened the driver and ..... the transistor foot is burned out. I soldered on the wires and led the resistor outside, glued it to the housing to give off heat and for now it's ok. It gave me the opportunity to solder a slightly larger resistor and a better temperature dissipation. As a result, I think the whole car will be damned sooner than the driver. Clean in the pump, without any particles or filings, the engine worked properly, I killed the controller with a long spin in the frost because the glow plugs fell and that's it. If someone is from Mazowieckie and has an error (1268 dose regulator n146), I invite you to the pw. and I will help if there is such an opportunity to save two and a half thousand for the regeneration of vp44. If something happened to me again in the meantime, I will definitely contact you and continue the topic so that others have info on this topic.

I am very interested in what kind of resistor my colleague pulled out? Can you ask for any details?

Maybe some photo?

Pulling out the transistor and not the resistor will have a hard time sealing the electronics in the controller. It is enough to properly "insert" the transistor and it will be like the manufacturer did. I have often seen drivers with transistors placed outside. If someone was curious what was inside and pulled the aluminum flap, he also pulled out the solder field that was larger than the transistor source. Then the driver needs to be changed. Additionally, this solution is often used by our Ukrainian "friends". If someone tries to repair himself, let him not stick with sanitary silicone or any other acetate based silicone.

I am from Lublin, I also have this error. Would you help?

I had a control transistor crash on an Audi A6 with VP44, spring 2019. I fixed it myself by inserting an IRLR2905. What is really the best for a specific model, no one will tell you - closely guarded betting secrets because it's a good business. 1 transistor for PLN 5 generates PLN 300-600. In the electronics store, the seller said to me: "the mechanic from ... takes the IRLR2905 to Opel" and I bought one.
You need to cut the two wires on top of the pump, the ones that are zoomed in on the 55 second video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6WADp35wu4
Cut them so that one is shorter and the other slightly longer. Then it is better to solder and insulate. Connect a 12V 55W or 65W bulb with wires long enough to lie on the windshield to the wires from the pump side. Turn the ignition on and crank the starter. If the bulb flashes, it means that the fuel dose regulator is being controlled. If not, then the control transistor is most likely damaged. Then connect one wire going to the adjuster to ground, and touch the other to the plus (you can use one or two filaments of the bulb, if you are afraid that you will do something to it, the voltage drop on the MOSFET transistor in conduction is negligible and the adjuster always gets almost full voltage ). You are supposed to hear the chirp-tapping sound means it works and it walks. Here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JVWsQGORXVs
I did the repair without removing the pump and controller from the car. There were some combinations, but it worked. I used a 400W soldering iron reminiscent of the PRL with a tip with a thumb diameter and a 45 / 75W transformer. I took out the spearhead and on the other hand I adjusted its shape to the needs, first I rolled it a little, then brought it closer to the square.
I scraped it, broke it, broke it off, mechanically removed the old transistor, or rather its parts, to the copper-brass plate (I don't remember what's there). I cleaned to metal, made a solid solder point of 100% tin solder and rosin there. I also put a solid portion of tin on the transistor. I soldered a piece of copper wire to one of the transistor's electrodes so that it could be held in the right place - tweezers were not suitable. I heated the soldering point for a long time with a large soldering iron, then I brought the transistor and the transformer closer and managed to solder. I decided that soldering would be best for removing heat, not any pastes and glues. Watch out for the solder points, it is fragile. I had to connect the gate carefully to the appropriate capacitor because I lost its solder point. The pump needed to be deaerated! There are a lot of videos on YT. I post some photos.


Good luck.
PS.
I found some YT links in the old file.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HrnYZd7Uuyk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0EYEhS6_iZ0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ydwzUSeH-4A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jUq-d_HbGu0

Is your friend not afraid to let this car go on the road now?

He made the longest route of 300 km back and forth in the middle of summer. Everyone is an adult and does the repair at their own risk.

... and why did I get tired of writing above. Here you have professional descriptions and certainly with more experience.
https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3531447.html#17638486