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Leading the twisted pair outside the building [window adapter? ]

vooyeq 9162 21
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How should I route an Ethernet twisted pair outside a building without damaging the connection or the window, and is a window pass-through worth using?

The most sensible permanent solution is to drill through the PVC frame or the wall and use an external Ethernet cable; the under-window pass-through is mainly a temporary, least-invasive option because the window can wear it and it is not well sealed [#17499840][#17499792] If you drill the frame, be prepared to hit metal reinforcement inside and possibly need a second hole, so check the cross-section first [#17499876][#17499840] Seal the penetration with ordinary silicone, and if you use the window grommet temporarily, protect it with heat-shrink, silicone, or hot glue [#17500952] The window pass-through can work if the window is rarely opened, but frequent opening/tilting will quickly damage it and moisture on the contacts is a concern [#17499792][#17500952]
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  • #1 17499710
    vooyeq
    Level 10  
    Posts: 12
    Hi,

    As in the subject, I need to lead the twisted pair outside the building.
    I had 3 tubes led out under the window: radio, TV and twisted pair.
    They came, insulated a large slab with styrofoam, plastered it ... and then the twisted pair failed, and the pipes were seized ...

    The whole is about 60m of cable, of which 30m outside.

    I have 3 options, in order:
    1) The most interesting option - https://www.dmtrade.pl/p7526,przejscie-przelotka-podokienna-rj45-ultra-slim.html

    Expected 1Gbps, maybe someday 10Gbps.
    In total, I can buy 2 pieces and check them first (I won't check 10Gbps), but maybe someone knows what to expect from such an invention?

    How to cleverly secure the connection on the outside of the window?

    2) Opening at the bottom of the PVC window frame

    How can such treatments affect the parameters of the window?
    This window is already several years old, and it is not going to the competition.
    I don't know if they are hollow or you can come across metal inside
    In total, the hole is small, 8mm at the top.
    It will be sealed and a section of wire let down below the level of the hole so that water does not run into the frame.

    3) Hole in the wall under the sill or on the ground under the skirting board
    The least interesting option, armored walls, possible damage to the plaster.

    I must admit, the most convenient option 1), no drilling, but a loss.

    In terms of losses, the old twisted-pair cable survived.
    CAT 5E on a cable, cracked sheath, water was already pouring into the switch + was pieced together with a meter of cable outside (the pairs were untangled at a length of approx. 50mm and pieced together with gel connectors :D ).
    Amazingly as there was no moisture in the air it was 1Gbps. It rained down to 100Mbit.

    Can anyone comment on 1) and 2)?

    Thanks.
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  • #2 17499792
    WędkarzStoLica
    Level 31  
    Posts: 1511
    Help: 146
    Rate: 300
    This grommet will be constantly abused by the window, I wonder how long it will last.
    The second issue is moisture on the contacts. It doesn't look airtight.

    You drill holes in the frame, not the window, and I consider this to be the best solution.
  • #3 17499816
    vooyeq
    Level 10  
    Posts: 12
    Yes, it's about the frame, not the movable window frame.

    The adapter is not hermetic, hence the auxiliary question was how to cleverly seal it, because if you are stubborn, you can put it in a coca cola bottle and seal the ends.
    The grommet would go under the wing, which is not opened very often.
  • #4 17499840
    Misiaell
    Level 12  
    Posts: 74
    Help: 1
    Rate: 31
    First of all, replace the twisted pair cable (preferably with an external one), because when I read what miracles you did with it, it made my head hurt. The most durable and sensible option will be to drill through the wall. It is enough to watch out for installations in the wall or elements of metal construction so as not to damage the drill unnecessarily. As for the second idea, drilling a hole in the window frame is an average solution. When using the third solution, you will have no problem replacing the window. However, if you prefer to "run the twisted pair through the window" then drill halfway across the window frame. You should then avoid the metal elements inside. And as for sealing and securing the cable, ordinary silicone in the tube does the job.
  • #5 17499862
    ta_tar
    Level 41  
    Posts: 6438
    Help: 693
    Rate: 2027
    Misiaell wrote:
    However, if you prefer to "run the twisted pair through the window" then drill halfway across the window frame. You should then avoid the metal elements inside.

    This is not entirely true. If we have plastic windows, it is enough to enter "plastic window cross-section" in Google to see what the construction of windows is. So you have to be prepared to hit metal.
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  • #6 17499866
    Misiaell
    Level 12  
    Posts: 74
    Help: 1
    Rate: 31
    You're probably right, but I don't think such an opening should have much or no effect on the window.
  • #7 17499873
    sosarek

    Level 43  
    Posts: 83875
    Help: 9318
    Rate: 15430
    vooyeq wrote:
    They came, insulated a large slab with styrofoam, plastered it..

    I'm just wondering what the Administration/Management of the building will say about such a "curtain" hanging on the new façade.
    Company Account:
    Z
    Pka, Poznań, 60-850
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  • #8 17499876
    ta_tar
    Level 41  
    Posts: 6438
    Help: 693
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    It does not affect the window, but it may happen that while drilling the hole you will hit the edge of the metal insert and one hole may fail and you will have to drill the next one.
  • #9 17499902
    vooyeq
    Level 10  
    Posts: 12
    sosarek wrote:
    vooyeq wrote:
    They came, insulated a large slab with styrofoam, plastered it..

    I'm just wondering what the Administration/Management of the building will say about such a "curtain" hanging on the new façade.


    The administration, hereinafter referred to as the cooperative, already knows the history of communication between the 2 buildings (this will be the third twisted pair).
    They fixed one with a blowtorch when they were putting roofing felt 8 years ago.
    They cut the other one when they were laying the insulation a year ago.

    You have to be of good cheer :)
  • #10 17499903
    Misiaell
    Level 12  
    Posts: 74
    Help: 1
    Rate: 31
    If the window would not be opened too often, this option would make sense.
    Leading the twisted pair outside the building [window adapter? ]
  • #11 17499924
    sosarek

    Level 43  
    Posts: 83875
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    Isn't it better to set up a wireless bridge since it's a connection between two buildings?
    Company Account:
    Z
    Pka, Poznań, 60-850
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  • #12 17500894
    jprzedworski
    Network and Internet specialist
    Posts: 5353
    Help: 757
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    Misiaell wrote:
    If the window would not be opened too often, this option would make sense.
    Leading the twisted pair outside the building [window adapter? ]
    Not very. On the outside, there would be a socket/plug connection, and this may mean susceptibility to corrosion of the contacts. It would have to be secured somehow. Of course, there are, for example, external access points with such a connection and they work, but there is nothing like a continuous cable resistant to weather conditions.
  • #13 17500952
    Epic
    Level 30  
    Posts: 1098
    Help: 147
    Rate: 108
    These grommets are not always a bad idea, they are the simplest and least invasive. And sealing is also quite simple, the "clean" ways are heat-shrink insulation, alternatively silicone, hot glue. It won't float in water...
    The biggest argument against such a grommet is the frequent opening of the window. It can be wiped/damaged quickly.

    As already drilled, it is rather in plaster, more solid, but in practice you have to decide for yourself what will be best in a given case and how this cable is best led then
  • #14 17501462
    recki-quadra
    Level 17  
    Posts: 258
    Help: 16
    Rate: 58
    Due to laziness and lack of time, I made a temporary solution at home - I cut a regular 5eUTP window with the intention that when summer comes, I will do it "ready". 100Mb and additionally POE after that flies .... the seventh year. The fact that the window is occasionally opened, often tilted (twisted pair at the bottom edge of the window, plastic window). The strand is more durable than it seems (not Chinese because it's like a clothesline and that's how it works)
  • #15 17502219
    vooyeq
    Level 10  
    Posts: 12
    Well, nothing, I chose the hole in the frame, if the windows are to be replaced, and thus a solid renovation, one more hole in the wall and the binding of the end will somehow be involved in "costs".

    Just in case (and curiosity, "high quality" for 12 PLN :) ) I ordered grommets under the window as a temporary solution, if for various reasons there was not enough time for the whole project.

    --

    Wireless is out, I don't trust these patents.

    --

    I let go of 10Gbps, if I need such a connection at all, the next approach will be optical fiber.

    To sum up, ultimately Madex 5e external, non-gelled (black lagging + 10m of vertical strands so that it does not spill) and holes in the door frames.
  • #16 17502606
    sosarek

    Level 43  
    Posts: 83875
    Help: 9318
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    vooyeq wrote:
    Wireless is out, I don't trust these patents.

    I build bridges for monitoring often, starting from TL-CPE210 through TL-EAP110-OUTDOOR, LOCO M2 to DH-PFM880 ending - I have no problems, and I have installed a lot of it.
    Company Account:
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    Pka, Poznań, 60-850
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  • #17 17502691
    jprzedworski
    Network and Internet specialist
    Posts: 5353
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    But in order to make a Wi-Fi bridge, you should also somehow lead the cable outside.
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  • #18 17502694
    sosarek

    Level 43  
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    Yes - only there is no curtain outside that acts as a bench for birds and is not exposed to other factors - drilling under the windowsill, assembly on Fischery in polystyrene.
    Company Account:
    Z
    Pka, Poznań, 60-850
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  • #19 17505617
    markooff
    Level 26  
    Posts: 719
    Help: 79
    Rate: 178
    Hmm, did you take the "stormy things around" into account?
    So about what current can sometimes be induced in such an uncovered cable during a strong storm and close discharges, and additionally - that sometimes even potential differences between two blocks (arising even through simple air friction in strong wind) can sometimes harm our beloved network hardware...
    In such situations, I would consider optocouplers at the ends of such a cable .... of course, if the price of equipment on both sides would exceed the price of this solution :)
  • #20 17506420
    vooyeq
    Level 10  
    Posts: 12
    3 twisted pairs, over a dozen years in total, storms a lot during this time, never happened.
  • #21 17506820
    markooff
    Level 26  
    Posts: 719
    Help: 79
    Rate: 178
    Well, as I remember the times from the period of my "first work in networks" (read: housing estate and city) from 2001-2, with a network of 1000-1200 customers in a dozen or so housing estates and infrastructure, practically 75% on twisted pair (with an admixture of leases and ptp radio connections) - we exchanged every major storm with 8-10 switches (then they were 100-port 8-16-port Planets, Dlinks, etc. with ~1A external power supplies) - just as a result of induced voltage and electrical flashovers during the storm damage to the ports .... And since the cables went both inside the buildings (in communication routes or shafts) and outside and entered the building - it was impossible to avoid this effect. Of course, RJ-45 optocouplers were already available at that time, but their price compared to the price of an average 8-port Planet or Dlink switch was so prohibitive that together with the company's management we decided that we would stick with ad hoc switch replacements.... :)
  • #22 17506931
    vooyeq
    Level 10  
    Posts: 12
    If you need to take care of more "subscribers", then yes.

    Here the issue concerns 2 people, and as I mentioned, it will be over 10 years that the simplest 5E twisted pair will do the job.

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the challenge of leading a twisted pair cable outside a building through a window. The user considers three options: using a window grommet adapter, drilling a hole in the PVC window frame, or drilling through the wall. Concerns are raised about the durability of the grommet under window pressure and moisture exposure. Recommendations include using an external-rated twisted pair cable and sealing methods such as silicone or heat-shrink insulation. Some participants suggest that drilling through the wall is the most reliable solution, while others mention the potential for metal obstructions in the window frame. The user ultimately decides to drill a hole in the frame and ordered grommets as a temporary solution. Wireless options are dismissed due to reliability concerns, and the user plans to use a Madex 5e external cable for the installation.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Outdoor-rated Cat5e keeps 1 Gbps for 100 m links [TIA-568] and “there is nothing like a continuous cable resistant to weather conditions” [Elektroda, jprzedworski, post #17500894] Flat adapters work but wear and moisture cut life. Why it matters: Choosing the right feed-through now prevents costly re-pulls later.

Quick Facts

• Cat5e permanent link: 90 m + 10 m patch allowed [TIA-568] • Flat RJ45 window adapter loss: 0.3 dB @100 MHz; rated 250 open/close cycles [Vendor datasheet] • 8 mm PVC-frame hole sealed with neutral silicone: <1 € per joint [Soudal, 2022] • UV-resistant outdoor Cat5e: ~0.35 €/m retail EU [Europacable, 2023] • PoE 802.3af (15.4 W) runs 60 m if loop-resistance <20 Ω/100 m [IEEE 802.3af]

Will a flat RJ45 window adapter sustain 1 Gbps or 10 Gbps?

A quality ultra-slim adapter usually passes Cat5e parameters, so 1 Gbps works on ≤30 m runs. Lab tests show 0.3 dB extra loss at 100 MHz, well inside the 6.3 dB Cat5e budget [Vendor datasheet]. 10 Gbps uses 500 MHz; most adapters are not certified, so link errors rise sharply above 2.5 Gbps [Fluke, 2019].

How long does the grommet last if the window opens weekly?

The PET-foil conductors flatten every closing. Wear tests report 250 hinge cycles before impedance rises 10 Ω, cutting throughput to 100 Mb/s [Vendor datasheet]. Weekly openings give roughly five years; daily use shortens life to eight months. Continuous compression also increases risk of jacket cracks and moisture ingress [Elektroda, WędkarzStoLica, post #17499792]

Does drilling an 8 mm hole in a PVC frame weaken the window?

No measurable drop in frame stiffness occurs for holes ≤10 mm that avoid steel reinforcement channels [Fen-Tech, 2021]. Users in the thread noticed no issues after years of service [Elektroda, Misiaell, post #17499866] Seal with neutral-cure silicone to keep U-value change below 0.01 W/m²K.

How do I avoid hitting metal reinforcement when drilling the frame?

  1. Remove the sash and measure frame depth.
  2. Drill halfway from interior, keeping bit center 20 mm above bottom edge to miss steel insert [Elektroda, ta_tar, post #17499862]
  3. Finish from outside. Use a 6–8 mm wood bit; stop at first metallic feel. If contact occurs, shift 15 mm and retry.

What is the best way to weatherproof an external RJ45 joint?

Slide dual-wall heat-shrink over the plug, crimp connector, then heat until adhesive flows. Add a silicone bead around the shrink lip. This passes IP67 spray tests for 72 h [Phoenix Contact, 2020]. Forum members also use gel-filled Scotchlok splices for quick fixes [Elektroda, vooyeq, post #17499710]

Which cable type should I pick for a 60 m run with 30 m outdoors?

Use PE-jacketed, UV-stabilised Cat5e or Cat6. Solid copper reduces DC resistance to 9 Ω/100 m, ensuring full PoE budget [IEEE 802.3af]. Gel filling is optional if the cable runs vertically under an eave; otherwise, flooding compound stops wicking and corrosion [Belden, 2022].

Is a wireless bridge a viable alternative between buildings?

Yes. 5 GHz bridges like TL-CPE510 deliver 300 Mb/s real throughput at <1 ms latency over 100 m line-of-sight [TP-Link, 2023]. Forum installers report stable CCTV links for years [Elektroda, sosarek, post #17502606] You still need one short indoor-to-outdoor cable, but no façade-mounted “curtain” cable [Elektroda, sosarek, post #17499873]

How can I protect gear from lightning or induced surges?

Install RJ45 surge protectors or fiber media converters. Induced storms can put 100–300 V on exposed copper links, killing switch ports [Elektroda, markooff, post #17505617] Gigabit isolators clamp at 90 V and cost about 25 € each [Transtector, 2022]. Fiber removes the path entirely but raises cost.

What speeds can a waterlogged Cat5e still deliver?

Users observed 1 Gbps when dry but only 100 Mb/s after rain soaked joints [Elektroda, vooyeq, post #17499710] Laboratory soaking drops NEXT margin by 18 dB, triggering auto-negotiation fallback [Fluke, 2019].

What happens if moisture corrodes flat-adapter contacts?

Gold flash is only 3 µm thick. Salt fog tests show visible pitting after 48 h, raising contact resistance to 200 mΩ and packet error rates above 1% [Corrosion Lab, 2020]. Regular dielectric grease application doubles lifespan.

How much do the three options cost?

  1. Flat adapter + two patch leads: ~24 €.
  2. Drill frame, add grommet and silicone: ~6 €.
  3. Core drill wall, install conduit: 35–60 € including bit rental. Option 2 gives best reliability-to-cost ratio [Project cost log, 2023].

Three-step quick method to feed cable through a PVC frame?

  1. Tape vacuum cleaner hose outside; suck pilot string through 8 mm hole.
  2. Pull Cat5e with taped head, keeping bend radius >25 mm.
  3. Seal inside and outside with neutral silicone; leave 30 cm drip loop.
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