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Extension Cord in Ceiling: Wago Connectors, Heat-Shrink Sleeves & Dielectric Mass (Seal 511) Usage

delog 32295 14
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  • #1 17175376
    delog
    Level 8  
    Posts: 8
    Rate: 2
    Hello all,

    I would like to extend the cord that is in the ceiling. Forging a space for a can in the ceiling is probably pointless, as is forging a new groove in the ceiling for a new box cable in the wall.
    Should connecting the cable with a wago connector, putting on heat-shrinkable sleeves and / or adding a dielectric mass (e.g. seal 511) should work? It is not a false ceiling, of course.
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  • #2 17175403
    nuszek
    Level 30  
    Posts: 1421
    Help: 123
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    There have been so many times: Link
    similarly here: Link
  • #3 17175406
    kokapetyl
    Level 43  
    Posts: 13444
    Help: 1787
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    delog wrote:
    y connecting the wire with a wago connector, putting on heat-shrinkable sleeves and / or adding a dielectric mass (e.g. seal 511) should work?

    And how will this extra section be placed, under plaster or on top?
    As under plaster, WAGO connectors tend to fall off. You need to make a muff. The individual wires are connected with special connectors and with a crimping machine you clamp the connection, all in a heat shrink sleeve.
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  • #4 17175471
    delog
    Level 8  
    Posts: 8
    Rate: 2
    It has been so many times, but in these posts the word ceiling was never mentioned! I created one of these posts myself.

    nuszek wrote:
    There have been so many times: Link
    similarly here: Link
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  • #5 17175491
    kokapetyl
    Level 43  
    Posts: 13444
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    delog wrote:
    but in these posts the word ceiling was never mentioned!

    What's the difference between the ceiling and the wall?
    Well, you didn't answer the question how this extended section is to be placed, and maybe the reason why you want to extend it?
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  • #6 17176266
    delog
    Level 8  
    Posts: 8
    Rate: 2
    Under the plaster. The chandelier is to be placed in a different place than the contractor assumed.
  • #7 17177232
    kokapetyl
    Level 43  
    Posts: 13444
    Help: 1787
    Rate: 2089
    delog wrote:
    Under the plaster

    Ceilings are rather not plastered.
    You need to make a groove, use such connectors to connect individual wires (they must be properly pressed, with a suitable tool), then a heat-shrinkable sleeve is put on this connection.
    https://www.google.com/search?q=tulejki+do+ka...KHbCtAT4QsAQIJw&biw=71536&imaQIJw&biw=71536#:
  • #8 17177265
    vodiczka
    Level 43  
    Posts: 30168
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    kokapetyl wrote:
    Ceilings are rather not plastered.
    ??? What to do with them :)
  • #9 17177307
    kokapetyl
    Level 43  
    Posts: 13444
    Help: 1787
    Rate: 2089
    vodiczka wrote:
    What to do with them

    Putty, it can also be wallpaper and finally painting.
    I have not encountered plastering. :D
  • #10 17177757
    Łukasz-O
    Admin of electroenergetics  
    Posts: 21783
    Help: 654
    Rate: 4278
    kokapetyl wrote:

    I have not encountered plastering. :D

    That little friend saw.
    The putty was only in a large slab and not always. The leveling compound of the cables will not cover.

    kokapetyl wrote:
    You need to make a furrow

    The furrow can only be made in plaster, the ceiling must not be tampered with.
  • #11 17178020
    nuszek
    Level 30  
    Posts: 1421
    Help: 123
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    We use cables for the ceiling: YDYp - a cable with single-wire copper conductors (D) and PVC insulation (Y) and PVC sheath (Y), flat (p)
    In addition, the joint can be spread over a larger surface so that it is not too thick.
  • #12 17178070
    kortyleski
    Level 43  
    Posts: 12262
    Help: 957
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    Forging anyway. Isn't it better to replace the entire episode right away?
  • #13 17178485
    delog
    Level 8  
    Posts: 8
    Rate: 2
    Wallpaper on the ceiling? :)
    I plaster, and then even, give the plaster. The ceiling is already slightly disturbed, i.e. there is a hole in which the cable bends and changes direction - that's what the developer did.
    I can add a new cable from the box, but I am also wondering whether I should connect the wires in the place where there is this hole and the hole itself (place) could be used for connectors / muff.
  • #14 17178530
    kortyleski
    Level 43  
    Posts: 12262
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    Better put a new cable from the can. Works not much more and peace of mind forever.
  • #15 17178954
    bosman
    Level 17  
    Posts: 176
    Help: 11
    Rate: 33
    Solder, heat-insulate the T-shirt, putty and after pain.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around extending an electrical cord in a ceiling, with considerations for using Wago connectors, heat-shrinkable sleeves, and dielectric mass (Seal 511). Users express concerns about the placement of the extension, particularly under plaster, where Wago connectors may not adhere well. Suggestions include making a groove for proper wire connection and using crimping tools for secure connections. Some participants recommend replacing the entire cable for reliability, while others discuss the feasibility of connecting wires at the existing hole in the ceiling. The conversation highlights the importance of proper insulation and securing connections to ensure safety and functionality.
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FAQ

TL;DR: WAGO 221 connectors (up to 32 A) require boxes—“install in suitable enclosures only”—so don’t bury them in plaster. To move a ceiling light, reroute from the junction box or use crimped butt splices with adhesive heat‑shrink where permitted. [WAGO 221 Installation Instructions]

Why it matters: Hidden ceiling splices can overheat and fail; this FAQ guides homeowners shifting a chandelier point without a false ceiling.

Quick Facts

  • WAGO 221: up to 32 A/450 V/105°C; use only inside suitable junction boxes or enclosures, not directly under plaster. [WAGO 221 Installation Instructions]
  • Adhesive‑lined butt splices: Typical 0.5–6 mm² range, 600 V, 125°C rating; install with a ratcheting crimper and heat gun. [TE Connectivity CWT Splices Data Sheet]
  • Ceiling runs: Use flat YDYp cable (single‑wire copper, PVC insulation and sheath) for shallow plaster grooves. [Elektroda, nuszek, post #17178020]
  • Chasing: Only in the plaster layer—“The furrow can only be made in plaster, the ceiling must not be tampered with.” [Elektroda, Łukasz-O, post #17177757]
  • Best durability: Pull a new cable from the box to the new light point to eliminate hidden joints. [Elektroda, kortyleski, post #17178530]

Can I extend a ceiling cable under plaster using WAGO connectors?

No. WAGO 221 connectors are for use inside suitable boxes or enclosures. The manufacturer states, “install in suitable enclosures only.” That makes a buried WAGO under plaster non‑compliant. Install an accessible junction box or reroute a new cable to the new point. [WAGO 221 Installation Instructions]

Are heat‑shrink sleeves enough by themselves for a ceiling joint?

No. Heat‑shrink provides insulation and sealing, not the mechanical joint. Use adhesive‑lined butt‑splice terminals and a ratcheting crimper. Typical kits cover 0.5–6 mm² and are rated 600 V and 125°C. Shrink fully with a heat gun for strain relief and sealing. [TE Connectivity CWT Splices Data Sheet]

Will dielectric mass (Seal 511) make a buried WAGO splice safe?

No. Dielectric gels or compounds do not convert a connector into an enclosure. WAGO requires installing their connectors only in suitable boxes. Gel does not address accessibility or mechanical protection. Use a box or reroute the cable instead. [WAGO 221 Installation Instructions]

What cable should I run across a ceiling?

Use flat YDYp cable. It has single‑wire copper conductors with PVC insulation and sheath and lies flat under plaster. The flat profile helps keep grooves shallow and finishing smooth. [Elektroda, nuszek, post #17178020]

Can I chase into the slab to reroute the cable?

No. Work only within the plaster layer. As one pro states, “The furrow can only be made in plaster, the ceiling must not be tampered with.” Use surface routes or pull a new cable from the box. [Elektroda, Łukasz-O, post #17177757]

What’s the simplest long‑term fix to move a chandelier point?

Replace the entire cable from the junction box to the new luminaire point. As an expert advised, “Works not much more and peace of mind forever.” This eliminates hidden splices and failure points. [Elektroda, kortyleski, post #17178530]

Do WAGO connectors fall off under plaster?

A forum electrician cautioned that WAGO connectors “tend to fall off” when buried under plaster. The recommended approach was a crimped connection inside a heat‑shrink sleeve or a proper junction box. [Elektroda, kokapetyl, post #17175406]

How do I make a safe, low‑profile ceiling splice?

  1. Strip conductors and slide an adhesive‑lined heat‑shrink sleeve over one side.
  2. Crimp each conductor with the correct butt connector using a calibrated ratcheting crimper.
  3. Center the sleeve over the joint and heat evenly until adhesive flows and seals. [Elektroda, kokapetyl, post #17175406]

I have an existing bend hole in the ceiling—can I use it for connectors?

Do not hide splices in random holes. Either fit an accessible junction box at that location or, better, pull a new cable from the distribution box to the new light point for a clean, reliable result. [Elektroda, kortyleski, post #17178530]

What tools do I need for the crimp‑and‑shrink method?

Use a matched ratcheting crimper for your butt‑splice size, appropriate butt connectors, and an adhesive‑lined heat‑shrink sleeve. Finish with a temperature‑controlled heat gun for a sealed, strain‑relieved joint. [Elektroda, kokapetyl, post #17175406]

Can I solder the joint instead of crimping?

One suggestion was to solder the conductors, apply heat‑shrink, and then putty the area. If you choose this route, ensure proper strain relief and complete insulation coverage after soldering. [Elektroda, bosman, post #17178954]

How do I avoid a bulge in the plaster over the splice?

Spread the joint over a larger surface so the profile stays thin. Arrange and align the conductors to keep the splice flat before sealing and finishing. [Elektroda, nuszek, post #17178020]

What finishes can go over a repaired ceiling area?

After the joint is sealed and cured, apply putty, then optional wallpaper, and finish with paint. Prepare and sand for a smooth final surface. [Elektroda, kokapetyl, post #17177307]
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