FAQ
TL;DR: WAGO 221 connectors (up to 32 A) require boxes—“install in suitable enclosures only”—so don’t bury them in plaster. To move a ceiling light, reroute from the junction box or use crimped butt splices with adhesive heat‑shrink where permitted. [WAGO 221 Installation Instructions]
Why it matters: Hidden ceiling splices can overheat and fail; this FAQ guides homeowners shifting a chandelier point without a false ceiling.
Quick Facts
- WAGO 221: up to 32 A/450 V/105°C; use only inside suitable junction boxes or enclosures, not directly under plaster. [WAGO 221 Installation Instructions]
- Adhesive‑lined butt splices: Typical 0.5–6 mm² range, 600 V, 125°C rating; install with a ratcheting crimper and heat gun. [TE Connectivity CWT Splices Data Sheet]
- Ceiling runs: Use flat YDYp cable (single‑wire copper, PVC insulation and sheath) for shallow plaster grooves. [Elektroda, nuszek, post #17178020]
- Chasing: Only in the plaster layer—“The furrow can only be made in plaster, the ceiling must not be tampered with.” [Elektroda, Łukasz-O, #17177757]
- Best durability: Pull a new cable from the box to the new light point to eliminate hidden joints. [Elektroda, kortyleski, post #17178530]
Can I extend a ceiling cable under plaster using WAGO connectors?
No. WAGO 221 connectors are for use inside suitable boxes or enclosures. The manufacturer states, “install in suitable enclosures only.” That makes a buried WAGO under plaster non‑compliant. Install an accessible junction box or reroute a new cable to the new point. [WAGO 221 Installation Instructions]
Are heat‑shrink sleeves enough by themselves for a ceiling joint?
No. Heat‑shrink provides insulation and sealing, not the mechanical joint. Use adhesive‑lined butt‑splice terminals and a ratcheting crimper. Typical kits cover 0.5–6 mm² and are rated 600 V and 125°C. Shrink fully with a heat gun for strain relief and sealing. [TE Connectivity CWT Splices Data Sheet]
Will dielectric mass (Seal 511) make a buried WAGO splice safe?
No. Dielectric gels or compounds do not convert a connector into an enclosure. WAGO requires installing their connectors only in suitable boxes. Gel does not address accessibility or mechanical protection. Use a box or reroute the cable instead. [WAGO 221 Installation Instructions]
What cable should I run across a ceiling?
Use flat YDYp cable. It has single‑wire copper conductors with PVC insulation and sheath and lies flat under plaster. The flat profile helps keep grooves shallow and finishing smooth. [Elektroda, nuszek, post #17178020]
Can I chase into the slab to reroute the cable?
No. Work only within the plaster layer. As one pro states, “The furrow can only be made in plaster, the ceiling must not be tampered with.” Use surface routes or pull a new cable from the box. [Elektroda, Łukasz-O, #17177757]
What’s the simplest long‑term fix to move a chandelier point?
Replace the entire cable from the junction box to the new luminaire point. As an expert advised, “Works not much more and peace of mind forever.” This eliminates hidden splices and failure points. [Elektroda, kortyleski, post #17178530]
Do WAGO connectors fall off under plaster?
A forum electrician cautioned that WAGO connectors “tend to fall off” when buried under plaster. The recommended approach was a crimped connection inside a heat‑shrink sleeve or a proper junction box. [Elektroda, kokapetyl, post #17175406]
How do I make a safe, low‑profile ceiling splice?
- Strip conductors and slide an adhesive‑lined heat‑shrink sleeve over one side.
- Crimp each conductor with the correct butt connector using a calibrated ratcheting crimper.
- Center the sleeve over the joint and heat evenly until adhesive flows and seals. [Elektroda, kokapetyl, post #17175406]
I have an existing bend hole in the ceiling—can I use it for connectors?
Do not hide splices in random holes. Either fit an accessible junction box at that location or, better, pull a new cable from the distribution box to the new light point for a clean, reliable result. [Elektroda, kortyleski, post #17178530]
What tools do I need for the crimp‑and‑shrink method?
Use a matched ratcheting crimper for your butt‑splice size, appropriate butt connectors, and an adhesive‑lined heat‑shrink sleeve. Finish with a temperature‑controlled heat gun for a sealed, strain‑relieved joint. [Elektroda, kokapetyl, post #17175406]
Can I solder the joint instead of crimping?
One suggestion was to solder the conductors, apply heat‑shrink, and then putty the area. If you choose this route, ensure proper strain relief and complete insulation coverage after soldering. [Elektroda, bosman, post #17178954]
How do I avoid a bulge in the plaster over the splice?
Spread the joint over a larger surface so the profile stays thin. Arrange and align the conductors to keep the splice flat before sealing and finishing. [Elektroda, nuszek, post #17178020]
What finishes can go over a repaired ceiling area?
After the joint is sealed and cured, apply putty, then optional wallpaper, and finish with paint. Prepare and sand for a smooth final surface. [Elektroda, kokapetyl, post #17177307]
