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Compatibility of 1.5 kg/h Gas Reducer with 4 kg/h Burner for Heating Roofing Felt

MM2X 40188 25
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Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
  • #1 17973000
    MM2X
    Level 26  
    Today I bought a burner for heating roofing felt on a well-known website (on the way), gas consumption 4 kg / h, will the reducer attached below handle this burner if it is 1.5 kg / h?
    Compatibility of 1.5 kg/h Gas Reducer with 4 kg/h Burner for Heating Roofing Felt
    Compatibility of 1.5 kg/h Gas Reducer with 4 kg/h Burner for Heating Roofing Felt
    Compatibility of 1.5 kg/h Gas Reducer with 4 kg/h Burner for Heating Roofing Felt
    Actually, as it is, the seller claims that he sold several hundred units and no one asked about the reducer, on the other hand, the reducers come in sets of radiators placed on the collar of the 11 kg cylinder (just the one attached above), i.e. lower power receivers.
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    #2 17973009
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #3 17973312
    MM2X
    Level 26  
    Koderr wrote:
    No reducer needed for your burner -

    Well, and the question of a possible flashback as in the case of acetylene / oxygen? ;)
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    #4 17973518
    Lisek64
    Level 32  
    Because in cooperation with the reducer, with this burner you will be able to toast sausages and not to weld the roofing paper ;-)
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    #5 17973744
    saskia
    Level 39  
    I have and have used such burners many times, one has a two-burner, but I don't even know if there is any reducer on them.
    Tomorrow I will check and state if they are and what.
    The two-burner one is better for heating the roofing felt, because you do not have to swing it along the roller and you are practically walking on the roof, pushing the roller with your leg.
    A single-burner one will either overheat the paper, or the papa will cool down on one edge while you heat up the rest. Later, the effect is that in one place your shoes stick to the already spread tarpaulin, and in another, the papa does not stick.
    You do not write what kind of paper you want to heat, whether ordinary, or the one with a thick bitumen backing secured with a thin foil so that the roll does not stick together between the coils and which are just adapted to be spread out hot?
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    #6 17973829
    oun
    Level 22  
    MM2X wrote:
    Today I bought a burner for heating roofing felt on a well-known website (on the way), gas consumption 4 kg / h, will the reducer attached below handle this burner if it is 1.5 kg / h?

    It will serve you, but you will not get full power with it, because it requires a reducer capacity of 4000g / h.

    MM2X wrote:
    Actually, as it is, the seller claims that he sold several hundred units and no one asked about the reducer, on the other hand, the reducers come in sets of radiators placed on the collar of the 11 kg cylinder (just the one attached above), i.e. lower power receivers.

    The reducer reduces the gas pressure to the value required to power the device and since the heater requires a lower pressure to obtain a few KW of thermal energy from the heater (similar to gas cookers), it is used for this, but also to ensure constant gas pressure (even, constant flame) and used with 11 kg cylinders is required for safety reasons.
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    #7 17973868
    ociz
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    saskia wrote:
    Later, the effect is that in one place your shoes stick to the already spread tarpaulin, and in another, the papa does not stick.

    You don't walk on hot roll.
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    #8 17973909
    palmus
    Level 34  
    ociz wrote:

    You don't walk on hot roll.

    Hmmm .... it presses itself or what?
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  • #9 17973913
    MM2X
    Level 26  
    Lisek64 wrote:
    Because in cooperation with the reducer, with this burner you will be able to toast sausages and not to weld the roofing paper

    I was also afraid of this, so you can use a reducer with a higher working pressure and then not be afraid of gas backflow.
    saskia wrote:
    I have and have used such burners many times, one has a two-burner, but I don't even know if there is any reducer on them.
    Tomorrow I will check and give you whether they are and what.

    OK thanks.
    saskia wrote:
    You do not write what pape you want to heat or ordinary,

    PYE PV 250 S52, thickness 5.2 mm, SBS-plastic.
    I know 2-burner would be better but I only want one time (garage). Recently, I saw how the roofers next door were just heating with a one-burner with a 60 mm nozzle like mine.
    oun wrote:
    used with 11 kg cylinders is required for safety reasons.

    Exactly, and this is the clou of this topic! If safety in the cookers is not in the roofing burner?
    ociz wrote:
    You don't walk on hot roll.

    I am also of this opinion, if someone does it alone, he pulls the tarpaulin to himself and heats it, but I saw a movie on YT (German) where a guy pushes the tarpaulin with his shoe at the back and heats it upwards by moving it forward.

    To sum up, can there be a flashback as with acetylene / oxygen? and what is the pressure of this gas in the 11 kg cylinder?

    @palmus I think so, on YT it was also that the papa was wound on a steel pipe
    and when there was only about 1 m left, he pressed it with a pipe. When the roll is full, it presses on itself with its own weight.
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    #10 17973919
    palmus
    Level 34  
    I made 3 garages and the flame never receded. No worries.
  • #11 17973945
    MM2X
    Level 26  
    palmus wrote:
    I made 3 garages and the flame never receded. No worries.

    You know how unlucky somebody is, it's brick in a wooden church ... hehehe
    I had a friend of a welder (oxygen / acetylene) and a few times I saw wires split after the flame was retracted, burn hell like r ^^^^^ li wire but like a cylinder :(

    I know most will think I'm panicking unnecessarily but I'm looking for technical confirmation that a reducer is needed or not. The reducer not only reduces, but works like a diode and does not let it go the other way ;)
    One more thing, this burner has a constant flame, unlike small burners (CU soldering) and you don't always keep an eye on it during roofing work ;)
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    #12 17973958
    palmus
    Level 34  
    Seriously, no worries, you are not going to mess with the big hall.
    As for the pressing: I have not met the old roofing material, perfectly even, there are always either joints or humps from the roof structure.
  • #13 17973975
    MM2X
    Level 26  
    palmus wrote:
    Seriously, no worries, you are not going to mess with the big hall.

    OK thanks.
    palmus wrote:
    As for pressing down: I have not met an old, perfectly even underlay so far

    Now I am at the stage of equating the old cover (tar tar paper), I cut the blisters crosswise and water them with glue, cut all notches of unevenness and also glue, when exposed surfaces appear, I will stick a piece of this thermo-felt to even out the surface and then on top of the roll. The passing roofer summarized that if he were to do it for bread, he would not earn, because I will be on this roof for a week and he will hide in 3 hours, hehehee
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    #14 17974854
    ociz
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    MM2X wrote:
    To sum up, whether the flame may be withdrawn

    I have never heard of such a case, and it is unlikely to be possible, unless there is a lot of oxygen in the tank.
    palmus wrote:
    Hmmm .... it presses itself or what?

    There is no need to press anything.
    MM2X wrote:
    what is the pressure of this gas in the 11 kg cylinder

    It depends on the temperature and the propane-butane ratio. On average, it is about 4-6 bar at 20 ° C, but with such a high consumption, after several minutes the temperature may drop even below 0 and then there is no pressure. Whatever you give, the reducer would freeze immediately.
  • #15 17974979
    MM2X
    Level 26  
    ociz wrote:
    I have never heard of such a case, and it is unlikely to be possible, unless there is a lot of oxygen in the tank.

    And the place where the used gas is in the cylinder is not filled with air (oxygen from it), I know it already sounds like a "doctorate", hehehehe
    ociz wrote:
    Whatever you give, the reducer would freeze immediately.

    I take ok for granted :)
    By the way, the answer from a well-known portal / gas trader:
    ... Hello, Always use a reducer when taking gas from a 11 kg cylinder - it is about pressure reduction and safety of the operator.
    greetings
    K ^^^^^ rz ... "
  • Helpful post
    #16 17975050
    anchilos
    Level 38  
    MM2X wrote:
    Always use the reducer when taking gas from a 11 kg cylinder - it is about pressure reduction and safety of the operator.
    See what your hose ends are. Burner and cylinder caps. Greetings.
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    #17 17975102
    Lisek64
    Level 32  
    The pressure in the oxygen cylinder is 100-150 bar, therefore it requires a reducer. This burner screws directly onto the gas cylinder. There is a valve next to the burner, which you set the "on-call" flame and the lever gives "full fire" ;-)
  • #18 17975308
    MM2X
    Level 26  
    anchilos wrote:
    See what your hose ends are. Burner and cylinder caps.

    Could you reveal what the kaman is about? ;)
    Lisek64 wrote:
    The pressure in the oxygen cylinder is 100-150 bar, therefore it requires a reducer

    Well, I just read that this is the reason for the flame going back into the acetylene cylinder in which there is less pressure, this backflow is made by a huge oxygen pressure ... in the case of an 11 kg propane / butane cylinder, there is no such possibility, because there is no greater external pressure than that prevailing in the cylinder and the oxygen for combustion comes from the atmosphere at low pressure :)
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    #19 17975370
    freebsd
    Level 42  
    The reducer is compulsory. For example, it increases safety when the feeding hose is damaged.
    Which does not change the fact that small, medium and large burners work perfectly without a reducer and I have never seen anyone use a reducer on any construction site.
  • #20 17975431
    MM2X
    Level 26  
    freebsd wrote:
    The reducer is compulsory. For example, it increases safety when the feeding hose is damaged.

    Hmm, but the reducer does not work like an aquastop in a washing machine? unless I'm wrong?
    freebsd wrote:
    on any construction site I have not seen anyone use with a reducer yet.

    Well, ... but in practice life is ahead of paperwork ;)
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    #21 17975726
    freebsd
    Level 42  
    MM2X wrote:
    Hmm, but the reducer does not work like an aquastop in a washing machine? unless I'm wrong?
    You are right, but aquastop systems have nothing to do with safety against hose damage. The valves of a broken hose are designed to shut off the gas in the event of an uncontrolled leak, e.g. in the event of a broken hose. Also, the inclusion of oxygen in this discussion of propane-butane is not appropriate, not only because of the pressure differences, but also because of the physical and chemical properties of oxygen itself. I do not know about gas welders, but for example in diving I did additional permissions not only to use this gas, but also to operate oxygen devices. Basically: you have to be very careful with oxygen.
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    #22 17975734
    Lisek64
    Level 32  
    Reducer = reduces, i.e. it does not cut off the gas flow in the event of a hose unsealing. As for the combustion of the propane-butane mixture and air, you have already answered yourself :-) The "secret" is in the design of the torch head itself. For this from underneath there are openings for air intake. The flame will go out faster than it will be "pulled" into the hose ;-)
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    #23 17975748
    saskia
    Level 39  
    ociz wrote:
    saskia wrote:
    Later, the effect is that in one place your shoes stick to the already spread tarpaulin, and in another, the papa does not stick.

    You don't walk on hot paper.


    I do not advise you to walk backwards on the roof, unfolding the pape and still with the burner in your hand.

    Traces of shoes are made only when we heat up the pape too much, and you need to heat the base and the pape at the same time, then the tar paper is not overheated, and the hot base does not cause it to cool down too quickly and sticks - it decomposes as it should by itself without pressing, and under the shoes it is does not dent.
    It's not such a simple job for an amateur to do it right the first time.
    These roofing papers that are adapted to be glued hot with a burner have a thin foil and it is practically enough that most of the foil will disappear in the flame, so that the roofing felt has sufficient stickiness, and the main heating goes to the base, which should be leveled, and the old layers of roofing felt peeled off to the ground.
    Leaving the old papa is a wasted new one, because the old one will be destroyed very quickly, especially if the old one already had blisters. old felt paper will never replace the underlayment, nor will it strengthen or even out the subfloor.
    No cutting the blisters will help, and the excess binder on sunny days will melt and evaporate, causing more blisters on the new paper. Damp places do the same, so the substrate should be warmer than the new roofing felt itself,
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    #24 17975784
    freebsd
    Level 42  
    Maybe I did not describe it well enough, because it was obvious to me that the regulator itself only reduces the pressure, and there are regulators with more possibilities available. A good propane-butane reducer used to power a tar burner should have a reducer with a valve (fuse) blocking the gas flow in the event of a hose break. For example: https://sklep.skleptechniczny.pl/reduktor-propanowy-cfh-52112,3,20449,16692 The given one can be used with relatively large burners.
    As for the tar paper, thicker (5 mm) with good warp is cool. It is worth spending more, e.g. it arranges better. @ MM2X - arrange and don't worry, it's easy, even one by one. It's also nice to repair - you can use it almost as well as a self-adhesive patch (when heated) :-)
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    #25 17975904
    ociz
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    saskia wrote:
    Shoe marks are made only when we heat up the pape too much

    Traces become even when the sun itself warms her up.
    saskia wrote:
    and the main heat goes to the substrate

    How do you put on the polystyrene?
  • #26 17976190
    MM2X
    Level 26  
    Lisek64 wrote:
    Reducer = reduces, i.e. it does not cut off the gas flow in the event of a hose leakage

    I think so too, and it has a check valve, at least the one from 1 post in this topic.
    freebsd wrote:
    aquastop systems have nothing to do with the safety against damaging the hose

    It's not ? ;) the inner hose bursts water - after pressure, it gets to the outer hose and further activates the safety valve :)
    Lisek64 wrote:
    The flame will go out faster than it will be "pulled" into the hose

    And let's stick to it ;)
    saskia wrote:
    and you need to heat at the same time the substrate and the pape

    Valuable note, you can see it in YT videos as well.
    saskia wrote:
    sticks - unfolds as it should by itself without pressing

    But when the end is about 1 m, then you have to press down, because the weight is no longer there.
    saskia wrote:
    These roofing papers, which are adapted to be glued with a hot burner, have a thin foil and it is practically enough that most of the foil will disappear from the flame

    This is the rule, the foil disappears - the end of heating.
    saskia wrote:
    Leaving the old tar paper is a wasted new one, because the old self will destroy it very quickly,

    Not really, talk to the roofers about the bigger problem with the old roofing paper cut a piece and stick the thermo there and then on top of the roll.
    saskia wrote:
    No cutting the blisters will help

    For me, there was a leak between the plates and actually on the roof of the area. about 50 cm sq. there was a large bladder, I cut it crosswise, while preparing a flat substrate for the roofing felt, I glued it with glue
    and it stopped dripping from above :) and I have not yet put a heat seal.

    Roofers cut crosswise and heat with a burner - the tar melts etc ... because they don't want to wait for the sticky to cool down ;) . If you break the old one, you cannot do without insulation, then you have a roof covering practically like bare concrete ...
    freebsd wrote:
    As for the tar paper, thicker (5 mm) with good warp is cool.

    I chose 5.3+ SBS :) , polyester fiber, not glass (glass tears easily)

    freebsd wrote:
    @ MM2X - arrange and don't worry, it's done easily, even one at a time

    I can't wait, I'm into it already ... but unfortunately the weather :( in the meantime, I prepare the flashings :)

Topic summary

The discussion centers around the compatibility of a 1.5 kg/h gas reducer with a 4 kg/h burner intended for heating roofing felt. Users express concerns about whether the lower capacity reducer can adequately supply the higher consumption burner. Responses indicate that while a reducer is not strictly necessary for operation, it is recommended for safety and to ensure consistent gas pressure. Some users mention that using a reducer with a higher capacity may prevent issues like flashback, which is a concern in gas applications. The importance of proper heating techniques for roofing felt is also highlighted, emphasizing the need for even heating to avoid damage.
Summary generated by the language model.
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