patryk-84a wrote: Say what a surge protector has to do with the lack of a protective conductor? In addition, RTV equipment does not need protection because even plugs are not adapted to it (flat), and their housings are plastic. The same is true of a large number of vacuum cleaners in plastic housings. Washing machines, refrigerators or ovens are different, but these are household appliances. And there, the surge protector will not do much either, because what? If there is a phase breakdown on the housing, such a strip will not help. The lack of protection has nothing to do with the burnout of the device or the burning of sockets, but it may cause human shock if a phase appears on the metal housing. The pin in the socket can be connected to the neutral (blue) wire. Then, if it somehow touches the phase wire to the housing, it will blow the fuse.
Are you sure of what you said?
The strip is designed to protect against surges and not electric shock! Its task is to short-circuit the overvoltage to the protective conductor. If it is absent, where will it trigger the voltage surge? In the air?
The fact that many devices have flat plugs doom them immediately to lack of protection? After all, such a device plugged into the arrester is protected in the same way as the device with a third wire, the grounding of some device plugged into the strip does not matter for the strip, it is supposed to be grounded.
Many LCD and plasma televisions have plugs with protective pins.
As for other equipment, devices such as receivers, DVDs or VCRs have metal housings, and yet they do not have grounded plugs - this is the manufacturer's fault.
Why is it not worth connecting household appliances through strips? It should, not legally, but because of the concern for the equipment and the reluctance to repair.
Actually, not through the slats, but D class protectors.
Today, household appliances contain electronics, computers and clocks everywhere.
When a bigger overvoltage comes from the mains, it can all just break.
But if we have an old Minsk, an oven that only has a lamp for electricity, a microwave with a mechanical programmer or an old fleece, it does not make sense, because there is nothing to break down there.
abrzoza1 wrote: So, concluding from the "michcio" post, if the pin is connected via the PE cable and it is broken, then 230V will automatically appear on, for example, a washing machine or an electric stove. Or so? It is probably better not to combine this with PE.
No.
You misunderstood me.
PE, i.e. the protective conductor, occurs only in three-wire installations. Breaking it off does not cause a phase to appear on both! TN-S is the most secure network system so far and its use has been in force for 20 years. It is forbidden to install a two-wire network anywhere, and new, modernized ones must be three-wire / five-wire (if 3-phase).
Such an effect (network on the housing) is a break in the PEN conductor, i.e. the protective-neutral conductor, which occurs in two-conductor installations, e.g. at your place. This wire should be bridged to the pin in the socket.
Well, if we do not bridge the pin (which is required), we will get rid of the possibility of voltage on the housing caused by breaking the PEN wire. But we will deprive the device of any protection in this way. Therefore, it should be bridged, because PEN burning is very rare.
abrzoza1 wrote: Besides, this is what I'm interested in protecting against electric shock in household appliances. Can the washing machine or refrigerator work without grounding, because when I read the manual, they are shouting everywhere that it is forbidden.
And they are right. Lack of protection could kill someone. Therefore, these devices must be connected to sockets with a pin (even bridged with a PEN).
In addition, for example, a washing machine connected to a socket without grounding will copy when it is touched.
abrzoza1 wrote: Household appliances can work with extension cords. If so, what are they, because I do not connect even phone chargers to those Made in China.
Extension cords should not be used, it is a last resort if you need power somewhere far away. And for low-power devices. The charger can be safely connected, it is about 5 Compared to, for example, 2500 W of such a washing machine. Chinese extension cords are insecure, a higher power device can simply cause the extension cord to melt.
That's why I think that an extension cord for household appliances is definitely NOT. If there is no sockets nearby, you need to add more.
abrzoza1 wrote: And in my block there are over 50 apartments and I do not think that anyone changes the electrical installation in them, and yet everyone has a washing machine and a refrigerator ???
Since there are as many as 50 apartments, there are certainly a few of them with a new installation, such things can be done, for example, by painting.
Anyway, not only the lack of the PE conductor "pulls" to replace the installation. It is worth doing it, because those in blocks of flats and houses from the 70's and 80's are extremely overloaded, often dangerous. If the cables are aluminum, it's almost a requirement for common sense.
PS:
For easier recognition of cables, etc. for laymen:
Old installations (TN-C network):
there are two wires:
-PEN (protective-neutral, commonly known as zero, it is bridged with the pin)
-L (phase)
New installations (TN-S):
there are three wires:
-PE (protective, only protective function, only connected to the pin)
-N (neutral, today's zero, connected only to the hole in the socket)
-L (phase)
In older installations, you must not trust the colors of the wires, but only the test tube, because there we can expect phase everywhere.
Greetings.
. After that, I started writing my post at the same time as you, I guess it just took me longer 