Electric Socket at Home - Causes Washing Machine Fuse to Break: Troubleshooting & Advice

Colleagues, maybe a trivial question, but I don't know what to do with this contact anymore. In the bathroom, the washing machine connected to it breaks the fuse, after plugging it into another socket it is ok. I dismantled the socket, I do not see any short circuits on the cables there. What could be the reason, I am asking for advice from electricians ...

Puncture?

Hello.

Are you connecting to an outlet that is under the same fuse?
The point is to exclude the fuse.
And second, if you connect another device to this socket or does it blow this fuse?

What is this fuse and what kind of socket is it (with a pin?) At which point the washing machine fails (how do you insert the plug, how do you turn on, how does the heating turn on, when the engine starts)?

I will check all that you are talking about, very useful suggestions ... we'll see what it is.

Since the washing machine works without any problems in another socket, I doubt it would be damaged.
primo 1: is the socket in which it is ok, is it from a different circuit or the same as the faulty one ??
primo 2: what fuse (Ampere value) protects the good and bad socket ??
primo 3: two-wire installation, socket without a pin, on which side is the phase conductor in the socket ??
if a socket without a pin, does the security break if you turn the plug 180 degrees

secundo 4
If the washing machine has a breakdown and gives current to the casing, it blows the fuses because the current from the casing is escaping to the protective pin, which causes overload. If you connect such a washing machine to a socket without a pin, it will not crash because the electricity remains on the housing. But if you touch the washing machine and the radiator, it will be a funeral at home.

I would do this:
1. Disconnected the fuse and checked with a meter that there was no short circuit between the cables in the socket
2. He checked if the plug was ok (short circuit between the pins and the protective wire)
3. I would replace the fuse with the same value to rule out damage

DEXTRAN wrote:

In the bathroom, a washing machine connected to it blows the fuse

How does this "fuse" look like?

It is probably a differential, it is possible that only the bathroom socket is protected by it and there is a leakage on the housing, but as you can see above 25mA, it is better not to touch the washing machine because there may be a funeral.

But what does this "fuse" look like?

There are some things to check.
1. That the washing machine casing is not connected to one of the service leads.
2. When installing in the TN-S system, additionally check the condition of the washing machine power cables and their correct connection.

Better not to touch it when you wash it, supplying it from another socket on which it works, suspicion that there may be a voltage of 230V + wet floor on it, danger of electric shock. This is how it looks based on what you described. Maybe more about the type of network. :!:

With the heating program, I suspect that the usual S-ka is a minimum of 16A. Heater within 2.2 kW. Just what that fuse is
Describe it more precisely what is written on it. It is essential.

Gentlemen,
it looks like in the photo below:



The fuse is 16 A. Washing machine BOSCH WFL-1200, used only for 3 years. Previously, there were no such problems. Tell me how to safely check if there is current leakage on the housing? As for the contact, it is also not a revelation because it was installed in the times of the Polish People's Republic (block housing estate), but after inspection I do not see any short circuit there. I heard that the wires can be aluminum, not copper, it gets hot and the insulation may be damaged somewhere in the wall, is it possible? It is true that they are copper, but it is not known how in the wall ...

Screw in another regulator or an ordinary fuse and then see if it crashes, maybe the automat (fuse) has broken down

Do it this way.
1. Replace the fuse with another one
2. Check with a tester (ordinary light bulb) whether there is voltage in the socket
3. As it shines, it is ok.
4. Now find the voltage indicator (neon light) for the socket contact where it lights up.
5. There should be no light on the socket pin.
6. Check with a tester (bulb) that it shines between the contact (where the neon lamp and the socket pin are on). As it shines, it's OK. Since this is old construction, I suspect that there is no difference.
7. Turn on the cable from the washing machine and run it on a program without heating.
8. A damaged fuse suggests voltage on the washing machine and its proper response.
9. A breakage of the fuse at the moment of switching on the heater may suggest its damage.
10. It may also be the fault of the fuse, so follow step 1.

So much for the distance. With such symptoms, I recommend that you call a household appliance specialist.
In the absence of a differential, damage to the wires in the wall is unlikely. I suggest you reject this version.

The washing machine is ok if it works like it's plugged into a different socket. I would look for damage between the socket and the box, the insulation on the wires may be charred and if a greater current flows, when it is turned on, for example, a motor, heating coils, then a large current will flow and may break the plugs

jorgkrab wrote:

In the absence of a differential, damage to the wires in the wall is unlikely.

could I find out what a differential is by the way?

maybe you need to look from the installation, measuring the insulation resistance will not hurt

Added after 11 [minutes]:

difference? in short, this protection, which works on the principle of leakage currents, is designed to rotate human life

e2rd.o wrote:

The washing machine is ok if it works like it's plugged into a different socket. I would look for damage between the socket and the box, the insulation on the wires may be charred and if a greater current flows, when it is turned on, for example, a motor, heating coils, then a large current will flow and may break the plugs

It can act as the owner plugged it into a socket without a pin with voltage on the housing. There is a possibility. Should it be like that? :D

Slight damage to the cables cannot be ruled out, but as you write, the fuse is blown out only after the washing machine is turned on.
If it were to knock it out without a load, it would suggest a full short circuit on the wires supplying this circuit.

When the wires are damaged, the installation in cooperation with the differential generates a lot of problems. Link I don't think you have one, but I don't know.

The initiator of the problem does not mention anything about the installation work, which I suspect. Someone changed the wires somewhere. And now the L goes to the casing and it shuts somewhere (maybe through the water pipe).
As you can see in the photo, a socket with grounding (it is not known whether it is connected). If the installation was written from the times of the Polish People's Republic, there is probably one fuse (maybe one for the sockets and one for the lighting). So the same fuse breaks one time and another time it does not protest.

1. Replace the fuses. Screw in the one on which it does not knock.
2. Check on the old one if it knocks how the washing machine washes without heating.

I am not an electrician, but I will tell you what you have to do in the eyes of a peasant:
1 Plug the washing machine into a different socket and then turn off the fuse that always blows (small red button on the plug, or remove it) if the washing machine stops working, it means that both sockets are on the same circuit, the fuse.
2 Does the functional outlet have a grounding prong.
3 If the sockets are in the same fuse, and the working socket has a pin, and you do not have much experience with electricity, I advise you to call someone you know from the electrician because your installation is failing.

jorgkrab wrote:

It can act as the owner plugged it into a socket without a pin with voltage on the housing. There is a possibility. Should it be like that?

We rightly do not know what socket you connected the washing machine to.
Best if you would take the phase tester (i.e. a screwdriver with a neon sign) and touch it to the washing machine housing (to the screw in the metal housing of the washing machine) and see if it lights up when you have it turned on in a socket where it does not knock you, and then touch the screwdriver to the pin of the socket in which the fuse blows you and see if it lights up. We'll know more.

Greetings.

Quote:

Best if you would take the phase tester (i.e. a screwdriver with a neon sign) and touch it to the washing machine housing (to the screw in the metal housing of the washing machine) and see if it lights up when you have it turned on in a socket where it does not knock you, and then touch the screwdriver to the pin of the socket in which the fuse blows you and see if it lights up.

In my opinion, this is a wrong check, because when the plug is turned, the washing machine may have voltage on the housing and sometimes not, e.g. in such cases. Possibility to rotate the plug in the socket by 180 degrees.



Let the author write down his conclusions.
greetings

jorgkrab wrote:

Quote:

Best if you would take the phase tester (i.e. a screwdriver with a neon sign) and touch it to the washing machine housing (to the screw in the metal housing of the washing machine) and see if it lights up when you have it turned on in a socket where it does not knock you, and then touch the screwdriver to the pin of the socket in which the fuse blows you and see if it lights up.

In my opinion, this is a wrong check, because when the plug is turned, the washing machine may have voltage on the housing and sometimes not, e.g. in such cases. Possibility to rotate the plug in the socket by 180 degrees.

Let the author write down his conclusions.
greetings

You don't have to come to any conclusions here, it's just practice. If you have a light bulb in your apartment, the phase tester on the neutral wire in this circuit will also light up for you. We have the same with this washing machine. If we had the wire cut and it touched the housing, it would of course be important to insert the plug into the socket, but then the device would not work, because there would be no continuity of the circuit (although in one case it could work).
Here we are dealing with frayed cable insulation and touching the casing; of course we do not know 100% if this is the case, but it is a theoretical possibility; therefore, in this case the phase will be on the housing and the tester will light (similar to the example of a light bulb on) regardless of whether it is closer to the phase or neutral. The current will flow from phase to neutral and through our casing to the ground (if the ground is not insulated).

greetings

Androl wrote:

If you have a light bulb in your apartment, the phase tester on the neutral wire in this circuit will also light up for you.

It will not light unless you have a 100kW bulb and there is such a huge voltage drop on the wires.

marian_em wrote:

Androl wrote:

If you have a light bulb in your apartment, the phase tester on the neutral wire in this circuit will also light up for you.

It will not light unless you have a 100kW bulb and there is such a huge voltage drop on the wires.

A colleague's statement marian_em in my opinion, absolutely correct, but in our apartments we do not use such powerful light bulbs to meet this condition of lighting the neon lamp. :D

Example.


Assuming a voltage drop of only 30V (these neon lamps are lit differently) for a circuit with a length of l = 15m, a current of about 166A would have to flow through this wire, which is associated with the power of the 38kW bulb. Assumption for a wire with a cross-section of 1.5mm?
R = l / ?s comes out about 0.18 ?. With the assumed voltage drop of a greater value for this neon lamp, the current will increase even more, and thus the power of the BULB.
THESE ASSUMPTIONS ONLY TO FULFILL THIS CONDITION> If the security does not work, the cable fails
You can support yourself with a neon lamp, but it is not a good tool for checking.

Rightly colleagues, the tester would light up when the N wire was disconnected, I also went a little too far. However, for the needs of the DEXTRAN column, the probe and posts are enough to check where to look for a fault and who to call and what to call.
Greetings.

JUST THE FEATHER AND BEAUTIFULLY NO LONGER BLASTING THE FUSE. I TESTED THE CASING OF THE WASHING MACHINE WITH THE TESTER AND THERE IS NO PUNCTURE. THERE MUST BE SOMETHING IN THE SLOT BECAUSE BEFORE WASHING THEM, I DROPPED THE CABLES AND DROUGHT THE CONNECTOR CABLE INSIDE. AT LEAST THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR YOUR HELP AND THE THEME CAN SOMETHING COME IN THE FUTURE BECAUSE SUCH PROBLEMS ARE NOT SURE TO ENJOY AS IT IS NOT JOKE TO KNOW ...