Can I Charge a Car Battery Through the Cigarette Lighter Overnight?

Hello. As in the subject. Is it possible to charge the battery (at night) via the cigarette lighter ?? I mean connecting a small rectifier to this socket.

Regards

If the socket has a power supply without a key and the current is not large, then yes

Thank you for the quick reply. And what parameters should the rectifier have? how many A, etc. best regards

and what's your battery and fuse on the cigarette lighter?

Added after 1 [minutes]:

The principle of charging the battery, whether through the lighter or normally, is the same, only here you are limited by the installation to the cigarette lighter, wire cross-sections and the fuse.

And I advise you to charge the battery disconnected from the car's installation.

with the memory backup device fastened. It's an ideal!

Exactly.

Although I do not know what the questioner is going to get in this way, I would advise you to check if there is voltage in this socket after the installation is completely put to sleep. Because often, if not the ignition switch, the economy system can disconnect the socket from the battery. Then, of course, charging is impossible. And if the socket is not disconnected, of course yes. Since you should expect a fuse with a value of not less than 5 A in the circuit, draw your own conclusions. And 5 A is a sufficient current (even too high) for preventive battery charging. It's just that you don't really make it much easier for yourself. Unless you feel disgusted by looking under the hood of your car. Unfortunately, we do not know what kind of car we are talking about.

I have a Cinqecento 900. I do not feel any disgust when I look under the hood, but on our winter days it is sometimes worth charging the car at night. I mean the simplicity of charging the battery. My CC is temporarily at the mechanic's, so I can't say what fuse the protected socket is. But I know for sure that the voltage in the socket is not dependent on the ignition switch.

The voltage is on all the time and the fuse is 15A. But I do not recommend more than 5A for a long time, use a rectifier with automatic charging, cars do not like the voltage increase in the installation above 16V.

Remove the battery from the car, connect it to the charger and do not combine it or disconnect one clamp, leave it in the car and charge it as the theory says. The third day you spend time on an obvious matter. Look at the diameters of the cables going to the cigarette lighter socket, see the plug-socket contact fields and you will understand what it is about. And if you don't understand, then ...

Thank you for your interest in the topic. I just wanted to know what there may be problems with charging through the cigarette lighter socket.
I consider the topic closed

Regards

Once, when it was below -25c in winter and I had a weak battery for a 12V 500mA power supply (from some old game) I soldered a plug that fits the cigarette lighter. I connected after returning home, and in the morning the car started without any problems. A car computer, LPG installation, radio, alarm, leakage causes slow and effective discharge of a particularly weak battery.

I recommend the garage. The next version will be on a bicycle dynamo. There are plans for a charger for batteries for finger batteries.
Let's end this pointless topic. Please.

The subject may be old, but I have two such devices, I use one and I want to sell the other.
It has served me for four years and has never failed.

The easiest way to charge is through the lighter. The charging current is small anyway, because we always charge the battery 1/10 of its capacity so that it does not heat up too much. The battery casing should not heat above 40 ° C, because the plates bulge and quickly such a battery goes to scrap instead of starting the engine.
The cables going to the lighter will easily withstand each charge because they are of the correct size. The only problem with this application is that you should have properly adapted lighter cables, not crocodile clips.

This is when the problem needs to be charged on the crocodile clips and not on the plug or switch the cable to the power supply from +30 and not from +15. As it will be with +30, there is always power. It still depends on what car because everything has to be done.

When it comes to this Booster-Pac, everything is done automatically and you do not need to combine anything, of course, if the cigarette lighter socket is not powered in the position of the key in the ignition.

And tell me why it was necessary to charge the battery through the lighter. A working alternator and a battery with proper efficiency should not require recharging. Since you have access to 230 V AC, you do not keep the car in the open and you are not afraid of frost. I personally advise against charging the battery with the cigarette lighter. It depends on your car, but modern control automation is sensitive to overvoltage etc. If you have already decided to use such devices, pay attention to the manufacturer and the class of execution. Usually these are impulse devices - converters. Here there is a high probability of 230 V breakthrough to a 12 V installation, then it will be very bad.

The car "sleeps" in an unheated garage -> Peugeot 206 RC.
I use this Booster for the fourth winter on the same battery and I have no problems with it and with starting the car.
Just because it's Made in China doesn't mean crap.
It was purchased by me in the Netherlands in a reputable automotive store.
Originally there was a rating sticker with parameters bearing the BOSH name.

This BOOSTER is good for recharging the battery, which loses its capacity of 1% per day anyway, so to be sure of its capacity, it will not hurt the battery to recharge it, not necessarily every day. If we drive every day and the battery is functional, it does not need to be recharged. The worst thing is if the car stands for longer, e.g. a week or two and the alarm is on, when the battery is weaker, we come and the starter flap does not move. Therefore, a benefit for the battery is a gentle charging, it is enough to charge about 0.5 -1 A of the charging current and the booster successfully fulfills this. Do not be afraid - as the colleague says above with overvoltage - because we would not connect any rectifier. I always take into account the efficiency of the rectifier.

I exactly agree with my colleague mmk.

I try not to criticize my colleagues' questions, assuming that "there are no stupid questions, there are only stupid answers"; but I think I will have to change my mind about it: Colleagues, don't you read anything from these "offers" or don't you think about it anymore? 85mA when will it charge, say, a 70Ah battery?
It's crap, maybe good for the phone, not the car - so I am writing like never before: CLOSE the topic!

I reply to my colleague, charging the battery, assuming that we have 5 / h a day, charging from the sun (the car is standing and it is light) would take 117 days ...
Only who has a completely discharged battery in the car?
A battery that is fully charged but not charged needs relatively small currents to recharge it. The question is whether anyone really knows what.

And I asked about recharging, or rather discharging prevention. As we all know, a car at a standstill consumes electricity, even if a stupid radio can put the battery. In winter, with frost, the problem gets worse.
The question is whether such a patent with a solar battery can solve this problem or reduce it.
I assume that there are some people on this forum who have actual knowledge and not rush to criticize and ridicule without even trying to understand the question

I see that the link with the post has been cut, probably considered an advertisement; (
so I paste the link to the device's manual so that someone smarter or someone who tried to use had a chance to relate to the question

sklep.avt.pl/photo/_pdf/sol5npl.pdf

Well, I do not have the "rush only to criticize", but maybe I did not fully understand the intentions of my colleague, now better explained.
Yes, if it is to be supplemented WHEN it is STANDBY, the consumption of e.g. a radio in standby or an alarm - yes, it can work (unless the panel is covered with snow).
On the other hand, about replenishing the energy used for, let's say, frequent start-up - this is not possible anymore.
But the source topic is socket loading, which I haven't written about yet.
If we have a safe power source (rectifier already proven in other activities) and we replace the commonly used socket fuse from 15 - 20A to a maximum of 5A - then yes, I'm in favor. I have been using it myself since 1985, when the idea came to my mind and the battery was more of a rarity than a gold nugget. How many problems with immobilizers or alarms after unfastening the clamps were already on the forum ...

And I have one that at 0.4 ÷ 0.5A will not exceed 14.8V - I did ( ), and I have been able to keep my battery in good condition for years and always "under steam". This is about the post below.

Buddy tonite. I don't know what you want to drill down. After all, it says quite clearly: 1.5 W and max 175 mA. Probably forgotten to add that under favorable conditions, i.e. strong sunlight. That is, it is a thrilling amount of wear and tear when the car is put to sleep. Any receiver has more than 1.5 W. That is the usefulness of this device in the car rather none. And it makes no difference whether you connect to the cigarette lighter or directly to the battery. But I hope it doesn't break anything either.