How to Safely Insulate and Cover a 220V Outlet Box After Socket Removal?

Hello
I apologize in advance if I did not find the topic in the appropriate forum
if so, please transfer to the appropriate one.
I have an outlet in the wall that I want to close
but through this outlet the electricity goes to other sockets
So connect the cube wires
and now the question is what to do next with this cube
how to close such an opening so that there is full insulation?
just plaster? or maybe some special foam first
and only plaster + gladz?
many thanks for your help!
greetings
luc

If you have an ankle like this, I would not close it permanently, I would just do the can there

the socket is in a visible place (that's why I remove it)
So the can as such is out of the question
I don't want to have a round outline for paint instead of a socket
that's why I was thinking about a possible socket box some insulating foam and only a little plaster and paint over it
so that in the future with a single hammer blow if necessary
reveal the hole again
possibly a lid, perhaps made of wood and plastic, fits well
into the hole and then only plaster and paint?
Immediately plaster on the ankle, it is probably not appropriate to clap it, right?
greetings
luc

Luc2000 wrote:

... or maybe a lid, maybe made of wood and plastic, well suited to the hole and only then with plaster and paint? luc

I think it is a much better solution. You will always be able to get there if you need to. Sometimes, at the connection points on the ankles, the wires like to get burned

Luc2000 wrote:

Immediately plaster on the ankle, it is probably not appropriate to clap it, right?

It would be a very poor solution

greetings

Twist the wires about two centimeters long. Put heat-shrinkable sleeves on the wires and fill the whole thing with gypsum, but do not leave a cavity, say two millimeters, and complete it with cement. Only before this operation you have to pull out this installation box. After painting, there will be no trace of the socket

Buy a square box with screws and stick it deeply enough - then you can plaster it or plaster it - in the event of a breakdown, you chuck the plaster, unscrew the screws from the flap and you have the ankle on top

http://www.speckable.pl/merge_foto.php?dir=59&foto=pk75.jpg

Ordinary cans with a plastic lid can also be masked so that they are not visible. the lid must simply go a little deeper into the wall, so that it is covered with a 2-3 mm layer of plaster. In the event of a breakdown, you do not need to choke much, and the can can be easily found by tapping on the wall.

You can leave it as it is now and hang a picture

And just out of curiosity, where is this outlet that you want to get rid of? Under the ceiling or what?

As mentioned above with heat shrink, or use self-amalgamating tape if you don't want to give a can

no, no cans fall off
especially that big square socket
I don't care about recovering this socket some time
mosaic in a few years, but that's when I'll be worried
a necessary condition is that there is no trace of the paint
and that the galvanic connection is safe and well insulated
the socket is normally 10 cm above the baseboard
and in a theoretically convenient place on the front wall of a large room
but now I hung a large plasma there - I put all the wires nicely into the wall, it generally looks like a picture now
and I do not care about this nicely made wall under the TV itself
the socket was scary and eye-catching (the more that the wall is painted deep green (the socket in the same color as the wall is also not included - it looks terrible)

Before a friend writes his next post - please correct your previous ones! Regulations p. 15.
Post written "with this technique" is very incomprehensible.
[Akrzy]

Added after 22 [minutes]:

Sorry. How to improve previous posts?

In the top right corner of every post you have a badge like "change".
By the way, first you painted the wall and now you are liquidating the socket, if it seems to me.

Ok - I will try to take care of the form of speech.

You understood very well; at first I did not pay attention to them,
but now it spoils the final effect for me. Like a trifle but important ...

You can use the PS60 signaling cover made of SIMET, adapted to be covered with plaster. After sanding the wall, it should be invisible and, if necessary, it should be easy to find.

A colleague himself does not know exactly what he is talking about. If he starts with painting and then wants to make changes, let him change the way of thinking and close this topic

The first priority is to ensure good contact of the connected wires and isolate this connection from the influence of moisture.
If you do it right, searching and breaking the can will not be needed for ... teen years.

If the length of the wires allows it, twist them together with a connecting block (such as for a chandelier), but put the wires to it overlapped on both sides and then tightly twist. If the cables are short, make the connection using tubular terminals (ERGOM), but without a crimping tool you will not do it properly.

Either self-vulcanizing tapes or heat-shrinkable sleeves with adhesive inside protect against moisture.

Do not use any foam, mineral wool and gypsum on it are better. The wool is easy to remove and is non-flammable. You won't scratch the foam that easily.
You can also cover the connection itself with a can with a lid so that you can find it after many years.
After plastering, draw a small mark on the wall with a pencil so that you don't think to drill in this place :)

Twisting the wires and soldering the "twisted pair" is the best method, but only if you know how to do it.
Otherwise you will bend / crush / break the cable and, under the influence of temperature, it will get hot in this place.

Luc2000 wrote:

I have an outlet in the wall that I want to close
but through this outlet the electricity goes to other sockets

all hints are wrong.
We remove the socket together with the replacement of the cables that came to it. That is, we disassemble these sections of wires and put them in this place full (not divided, not joined) which will replace the existing ones.
The whole can be covered with plaster, plaster and all the rest "behind".

PS. People! A bit of seriousness! plasma on the wall, and you suggest installation on a string from a binder ...

Well, but also without exaggeration. Now make the man squat everything. Nowhere is it written that you need to replace entire episodes. You have to do it according to the art and that's it.

Either a good bolted connection, or soldered and insulated as desired.

Luc2000 wrote:

no no cans fall off
especially that big square socket
I don't care about recovering this socket some time
mosaic in a few years, but that's when I'll be worried
a necessary condition is that there is no trace of the paint
and that the galvanic connection is safe and well insulated

Nothing comes off, buddy. The box is simply necessary here to shield the connection. A combination that tends to be damaged.
The trick to fulfill your necessary condition is to push the can half a centimeter deeper and tighten the lid with plaster. Zero traces. Contrary to appearances, you can start worrying much earlier, if, for example, you get hot or break the cable and your fatal plasma stops working.
Another option, apart from the box, is to solder the wires and cover them with a heat-shrinkable jacket, but this requires a bit of practice and attention. But you still have to cover such a connection with the can.

[/ quote] Another option, apart from the box, is to solder the wires and cover them with a heat-shrinkable sleeve, but this requires a bit of practice and attention. But you still have to cover such a connection with a tin. [/ Quote]

Then make up your mind :)

I will do it - I will twist and solder the wires, fill the hole with compacted mineral wool, put a layer of plaster on it, then smooth it a little,
I paint the sandpaper, soil and paint it with a small roller,
the paint is in expert matt - I can assure you that there will be no trace - because I see that it shocked some of them the most
Thank you very much for all the tips!
greetings
luc

What material is the wall? You can shoe deeper if it is a hollow brick and use a can - deep under the plaster.
If it is concrete, then do as advised above - put on heat-shrinkable sleeves, twist, solder, and heat the sleeves. You can use a few layers of them, because they can 'let go' on sharp edges. Insert such a connection into a piece of conduit / tube (you need to put it on the cable beforehand) or even wrap it with glass wool - use filling material and plaster for it.

EDIT: Oh, you've figured it out yourself ...

Luc2000 - you're really up to it. Just cover the can with the lid so that it is below the plaster face and drag the can with the plaster. No trace.

Madrik wrote:

Luc2000 - you're really up to it. Just cover the can with the lid so that it is below the plaster face and drag the can with the plaster. No trace.

Hello. I support. I have 4 cans in my room and no trace

To effectively mask the removal of a 220V socket, you can employ a few strategies depending on your specific needs. One option is to use a cloth face mask or a decorative cover that matches the surrounding wall texture or design. This allows you to conceal the area seamlessly while maintaining visual consistency. Alternatively, you can consider utilizing a wall plate or outlet cover that matches the color and style of the surrounding wall, effectively camouflaging the socket's absence. By employing these masking techniques, you can achieve a neat and aesthetically pleasing solution for hiding the removed 220V socket.