What kind of oil should be used for the compressor, compressor?

Compressor.

What for? Normal engine with a viscosity grade, e.g. 15W40

It can also be motorized, but there are opinions that it should be a bit thinner because it works at lower temperatures.

I'm sorry, but you must be kidding. How is a compressor, which is used indoors in the vast majority of cases, to be exposed to lower temperatures than a car engine outdoors in winter?

I read somewhere on the forum that it is good for automatic gearboxes.

Or you can add ATF, generally anything fatty.

For 10 years, the responses of "experts" in this thread have been misleading more and more users of compressors.
L-DAA class oils, i.e. oils with anti-corrosion additives, are poured into the compressors! The main enemy of compressors is water (condensate), which causes corrosive wear on compressor components. Well, but "anything but fat" ... Technical culture straight from the SKR or PGR of the declining PRL.

Jacek79 wrote:

What for? Normal engine with a viscosity grade, e.g. 15W40

For the motor engine, for compressors and for frying after fries just like for you! :spoko:

Added after 1 [minutes]:

Jacek79 wrote:

Or you can add ATF, generally anything fatty.

Sunflower, rapeseed and also fatty!

Added after 1 [minutes]:

ZX-10R wrote:

For 10 years, the responses of "experts" in this thread have been misleading more and more users of compressors.
L-DAA class oils, i.e. oils with anti-corrosion additives, are poured into the compressors! The main enemy of compressors is water (condensate), which causes corrosive wear on compressor components. Well, but "anything but fat" ... Technical culture straight from the SKR or PGR of the declining PRL.

I support something like this. Proper professional reply.

Please do not submit an archive topic!
Friend @ ZX-10R wrote the honest truth. Choosing the right oil for a given application is extremely important and pouring anything just oily was a straightforward way to destroy the equipment. Just like the belief that the oil that we got in a bottle with the device 15 years ago is free to use. You can't, because the oil degrades despite being kept in the original packaging!

And someone will advise on the oil for a specific compressor? I have a Kaeser epc 1500-500 compressor and, according to the manufacturer, I should pour oil for VDL150 piston compressors, which, however, costs PLN 130 per liter. I have 2 liters. which gives PLN 260. Can I pour a replacement into my compressor? For example, I found an oil with the same marking, except that a different company (Ravenol VDL 150) Unfortunately, it does not appear on the Polish market. Someone will advise?

If the oil meets the same standard and has the same parameters, it can be changed to a product of a different manufacturer. It is worth reading here the data sheets of the original and replacement oil.

However, I would not change the oil grade. VDL 100, manufactured by Orlen (PLN 18 / liter), has very similar parameters, but at higher operating temperatures it has significantly different viscosity parameters and could damage the compressor. Although it meets the same standard and has similar extreme work parameters.

As we live in a global village, buy a product from abroad if there is a problem with availability in Poland. This oil is now more readily available on the German market.

Cool. Thank you for your answer. And is compressor oil like automotive oil? So it should be changed every year, do the hours count? Because knocks on what this compressor is a bit over-sized, that is, what will punch it is enough for me for almost a week, so 4 minutes of work times 52 weeks, it will have maybe 4 hours, which is nothing. I have one oil change in 10 years.

Compressor oil is different from engine oil. There is no combustion of the fuel mixture in the cylinder chamber. There is only an increase in the pressure of the blown air and only the lubrication of the rings and bushings, bushings, connecting rod.

This is not what I asked. Maybe my speech was wrong. My point was whether the oil in the compressor is getting old and needs to be changed every year, or is it enough to do what, let's say 5 years.

It follows that the compressor is not heavily exploited. The amount of collected condensate and the loss of oil in the test eye may indicate the number of hours worked. The mesh should contain yellow oil. If it is gray, it means that the oil is heavily contaminated. It is not a huge amount of oil to replace it every two years. I optionally sometimes installed a neodymium magnet in the sink screw to catch the filings in the oil.

arturross wrote:

I didn't ask that. Maybe my speech was wrong. My point was whether the oil in the compressor is getting old and needs to be changed every year, or is it enough to do what, let's say 5 years.

In compressors, the number of working hours is what counts.
In the operating manual of your compressor, the period after which the oil should be changed should be specified.
Nevertheless, the operation of the devices varies and even with the replacement period, something can go wrong.

Regularly check the oil and its level.
If the oil "disappears" during operation, you have traces of oil in the condensate or pneumatic system, oily filters, the compressor has failures related to overheating, etc. - It may be appropriate to carry out an overhaul associated with an oil change.

Thank you very much for your reply. I wrote to the manufacturer asking for this manual and of course they are willing to send it to me. The price they want for it is PLN 250 net for the book version and PLN 280 net for the pdf. They exaggerated slightly. It would be a pity to get rid of such money for such an instruction.
Or maybe some of your colleagues would have a manual for Kaeser reciprocating compressors?

Why are you asking about the Keaser compressor and not as in the Eihell Euro 2500 post? After all, Keaser is not the price point compared to Einhell.
Here is a page at DE Keaser and do you see any similar construction of a piston compressor model?
https://www.kaeser.de/produkte/kolbenkompressoren/

zadam64 wrote:

Why are you asking about the Keaser compressor and not as in the Eihell Euro 2500 post? After all, Keaser is not the price point compared to Einhell.
Here is a page at DE Keaser and do you see any similar construction of a piston compressor model?
/

I am writing here because I was supposed to ask only about the choice of oil and this topic seemed to be the most appropriate for me. Why put on a new one. And somehow it turned out.
And do I see a similar design of the compressor? I do not understand. similar model to my Casser?

Apart from the norm and the obvious obviousness that we are pouring LDAA and that's it! to maintain the warranty which is important ??
...
We also have a mind that tells us that the use of correctly selected engine oil will give us the same effect ?. I will not write what and why justifying SAE viscosity parameters and quality API, because it misses the point and we do not have all the time for epics, but in general I think that 0W-40 to 5W-40 is ok (I just have a cold garage, although it would be okay to try a thinner oil film "30" which may be risky, but better 40, although it will give a little more resistance, but it will give a thicker oil film and I assume it will not break) For over 2 years, I have a twin piston compressor with a small cylinder because 150L works on 5W-40, and the dedicated LDAA I poured it only to get in. How would I buy it now for 100% 0W-40


Please convince me that they are used in engine oils with a service life of 15 to 30 thousand km, working at a high temperature. in diesel engines reaching even 700 degrees in the cylinder space with charges of substances such as esters, antidepressants, viscositors, antioxidants, pH stabilizers, other inhibitors, and he knows what else is not suitable for the construction of a compressor with piston rings, etc. It's not weak. Following this line of thought is nothing more than a dedicated standardized and taxed. Sorry for the sarcasm, but drinking is only bottled water because the tap water is not really ? let the 5th wave come - hate. ?

Added after 11 [minutes]:

zadam64 wrote:

Compressor oil is different from engine oil. There is no combustion of the fuel mixture in the cylinder chamber. There is only an increase in the pressure of the blown air and only the lubrication of the rings and bushings, bushings, connecting rod.

And the question is which oil must meet the worse working conditions of Ldaa or engine? ? and whether the worse or better oil is chosen for the worse working conditions, and what happens if you use the compressor in the compressor ... well, the better engine. If you are already on the "course and path", read the post to the end, if not buy a ldaa and be happy! :lol:

Added after 3 [minutes]:

arturross wrote:

I didn't ask that. Maybe my speech was wrong. My point was whether the oil in the compressor is getting old and needs to be changed every year, or is it enough to do what, let's say 5 years.

It makes sense to replace it depending on the intensity of use. The aging process takes place even during contact with air and the engine crankcase at low intensity of use, I think it is a maximum of 2 years. However, in cyclical work, find a golden mean by observing wear, the appearance of clarity of water clouding.

Jacek79 wrote:

What for? Normal engine with a viscosity grade, e.g. 15W40

noooooo
In small constructions it is often 0.3 0.4 L is not much, I note that compressing the 50L cylinder will often not heat up the oil, even if it is not lukewarm, so in the absence of a pump and splash lubrication and at low temperatures of frequent starts, it is good to use 0W or 5W oils because they are less frequent in low temperature and have greater penetration potential (the compressor works for a long time on the start stop cycles, the oil is often cold, unlike the head which is very hot with increasing compression temperature. Therefore, the way the device is used, the number of work cycles and their intensity over time, is of decisive importance. and impact on the wear process.
The use of a thick oil with a SAE starting specification above 10 or 15 is the death of the machine good morning!
Added after 9 [minutes]:

arturross wrote:

VDL150 which, however, costs PLN 130 per liter. I have 2 liters. which gives PLN 260.

For 1L ???, if you change 2x more often and put in the usual one, I write it ? ..... will stop? ? You will have 100 PLN left and the oil and compressor will be in perfect condition ??

Added after 2 [minutes]:

Forgive me if I offended someone but did anyone really write that only LDAA ?

You answered specific and to the point. I bought and poured Ravenol VDL 150 oil. To date, the compressor has run for about 18 hours. Until now, it works. There is no loss of oil and the separators are clean. The oil eye indicates that I changed the oil yesterday.