Identifying & Resolving Short Circuits in Single-Family House with Basic Multimeter Usage

Hello!

As someone who cannot be called even a novice electronics / electrician, I am asking for an idiot-proof explanation of what I should do to find out what a short circuit does in a single-family house, having the cheapest multimeter. Which cables and what should I use, what to set the meter and what things should surprise me ;)

Thank you in advance and best regards

What's happening? Does it blow one fuse or several at a time? Blows the main fuse? Any other symptoms?

I will describe by symptoms, because I have no idea : Everything in the house has gone out. I'm walking with a multimeter now and pretending to be smart, but seriously I could use a quick course, what and where to touch to determine whether the short circuit is made by the sockets themselves (although there have been no short circuits for a long time) or maybe some equipment on is short-circuited (which also happened for a long time time did not happen).

Set it on a squeaker, or an ohmmeter, or diode tester.

I don't have Piszczyk, unless it's the triangle mark and the vertical line on the horizontal line :D

And what should I set the ohmmeter to and what should I show in the event of a short circuit?

Added after 53 [seconds]:

I am asking for a solid instruction - for the first time in my life I am holding a meter in my hand and no guy around

I always measure with a diode tester (the triangle with the line) when connecting the wires, 1 disappears and 3 digits start jumping.

If it is a device, the easiest way is to disconnect all devices from the network and then turn them on one by one and check if it is the cause of the problem. .
As for the meter, most of them have a connection tester, it is marked on the meter as ... like a loudspeaker
If you hear a screeching sound in the meter speaker after the two wires coming out of the meter are short-circuited, the circuit is closed.
If the ohmmeter jumps to the maximum, the digital circuit is closed to zero

Disconnect everything from the sockets and try to close the fuse. Describe the one that crashed, is it not a differential, it says 30mA and the TEST button ?? Forget the meter if you do not know what can be measured and how, do as I wrote, it will be safer.

cyruss wrote:

Does it blow one fuse or several at a time? Blows the main fuse?

Buddy Cyrus, knock out your teeth ........

As for beginners equipped with the simplest multimeter, then I STRONGLY ADVISE any activities related to electrical installations with a voltage of 230 / 400V.
You can hurt yourself and others. Better to call a repairman and that's the only thing you can do.


greetings

Hokoczu wrote:

I always measure with a diode tester (the triangle with the line) when connecting the wires, 1 disappears and 3 digits start jumping.

So when it makes a short circuit, I start to jump three numbers? And when there is no short circuit, it is one? And when a one with a minus appears, what is it?

I haven't had a meter in my hand for a long time, checking the passage in the sockets does not make sense when the bulbs are screwed in, and other equipment is connected. Disconnect everything and turn on the fuses.

Take the meter probes, short them together, if it shows the same, it means yes, but I don't think the sockets have short circuits, just some device that is connected. Unplug all appliances from their sockets and then switch them on as they have already advised you.

I did a good family question and found out that it is possible that when the washing machine is turned on for cooking, it becomes short-circuited - is it possible? If only in this one situation, a short circuit would be made? If so, how can it be remedied?

First of all, start by disconnecting everything from the sockets and trying to turn on the fuses. I do not believe that the whole house is on one fuse - something should work.
Unless it knocks out a differential - there were some wise men who gave one for the whole house ... A differential is something bigger than a typical "S" fuse and with an additional "T", "TEST", "PRUF" button etc.
First of all, write what fuses you have - old screwed in or new with a lever.
Don't start taking measurements right away.

The programmer is visibly damaged, but let a professional judge it best.

Very likely. The washing machine heater is one element that can get a short circuit between the heater and the casing due to corrosion of the casing. And then when the heating is turned on - depending on the installation - it will strike the fuse or the differential (if any).
The heater can be checked with a multimeter. Of course, with the washing machine plug removed from the socket. This is the bottom part of the drum with two plus one tips. The third terminal is usually connected to a yellow-green wire - this is the housing. There should be several dozen ohms between the two terminals - in the range for checking the diodes, e.g. 030, in the range of 200 ? - e.g. 30.0. Between each of the terminals and the housing, the diode meter and ohmmeter on each range should indicate one at the beginning, i.e. the range exceeded, as with the meter terminals not connected anywhere.
If it is different - the heater is damaged -> only replacement.

Does the main fuse mean the other bigger one or the one in a different box?

The fuses are new, with a lever. Lots of small ones, one bigger, with a vertical line with arrowheads and a zero next to it, and a smaller button I think.
The main fuse has blown.

Added after 3 [minutes]:

cyruss wrote:

Does the main fuse mean the other bigger one or the one in a different box?

I have listed all that are in the box, so I guess the bigger one is the main one ...

Everything is clear (I think). The main fuses may be elsewhere. Unless one in that mailbox says "20" or more. The bigger fuse is probably the differential. If something like "40 / 0.03" is written on it, it is almost certainly, and if it turns off after pressing the button, it definitely turns off (if it does not turn off, it is a broken differential).
You already know the disadvantage of such a solution, i.e. one differential per house -> short circuit or insulation damage wherever it turns off the electricity in the whole house. At the beginning of the use of differentials, this was done (costs ...).
To make it more fun, you should press this button once a week and turn off the whole house for a moment. Usually next to the button it says "press weekly", "test weekly" or something like that ...
Here it will only help to add a few differentials on those circuits where it is needed (kitchen, bathroom, basement, boiler room ...). Well, this is for the electrician. Material cost PLN 120-200 / pc.