Hello. I was quite interested in the topic of checking various electronic components. Maybe I will write to the beginning what I can already do, you will have a better orientation as to whether there is a sense that I can take a look at the topic of thyristors and triacs, or I will catch it. So yes - I already know that:
- fuses works on the so-called buzzer, if the fuse is OK, I will hear the buzzer's signal, otherwise the fuse will be fired
- the resistor is checked in the ohmic range (ohms), the resistor's resistance value is read directly from it, i.e. the value in ohms is given on it or the resistance value from the bar code is read, the first two bars are resistive, the third bar is the multiplier and the fourth if there is a tolerance, although it may also be that the first three bars are resistance digits, the fourth is the multiplier, the fifth tolerance, and the sixth temperature coefficient
- capacitor works on capacitance measurement (multimeter range on pF, nF or uF (whereby F, ie Farad is a basic unit), capacitance value reads directly from the capacitor, if the capacitance agrees, then the capacitor is almost certainly efficient, and almost that it is necessary to check the measured capacitor for puncture in the ohmmeter range just like a resistor, if the ohmmeter resistance value reaches infinity, it is OK, if the ohmmeter shows some specific resistance value then the capacitor is qualified for replacement because it has a punctured value dielectric, I also realize that even such measurements do not guarantee 100% efficiency of the capacitor, because you would still need to measure the ESR value of the capacitor on a special meter designed for this purpose, then we have 100% certainty that the condenser is certainly reporting of course, you should also remember about it, I should write about it at the beginning, that the capacitor should be completely discharged before any measurements, do not measure the charged capacitor, because it can cause serious damage to the multimeter
- diode (whether rectifying, LED, Zener, Shotki, etc.) works on the diode measurement range or, as a last resort, an ohmmeter, if the diode at the plus of the multimeter to the anode and minus to the cathode has a voltage drop of about several hundred mV (millivolts), and probe vice versa there is no indication that the diode is functional, otherwise it is damaged, analogically on the ohmmeter diode at the plus of the multimeter to the anode and minus to the cathode has a very high order of megaohms, but the specific value of the resistance, and probing the reverse ohmmeter should show infinity, otherwise the diode is damaged
- bipolar transistor (NPN and PNP) works just like a diode on the diode measurement range or, in the end, an ohmmeter, for the NPN plus multimeter transistor it is applied to the base and minus to the collector and the voltage drop is about a few hundred mV, then the minus multimeter is applied to the emitter and there should be a voltage drop of about a few hundred mV, if a transistor is built in some reverse diode, between the collector and the emitter you should also drop about a few hundred mV, if such a reverse diode does not have a transistor, of course, there should be no indication, reversing the multimeter measurement probes in all the aforementioned casesthere should be no indication, otherwise the NPN bipolar transistor is damaged, the PNP transistors are checked in the same way as the NPN only change the measuring probes, of course, on the ohmmeter bipolar transistors should behave in all the previously mentioned cases as diodes
- the Darlington transistor works very similar to the bipolar transistor except that after inverting the multimeter probes between the base and the emitter, there should be a voltage drop of about 1.5 V, there should be nothing in the bipolar and between the collector and the emitter this time there is always a diode reversing, and thus a voltage drop of around several hundred mV, in other cases everything looks the same as in a bipolar transistor
- JFET junctional unipolar transistor also works very much like the previous types of transistors with the difference that the base here is called a gate, collector with a drain, and the source emitter, remembering this new naming, proceed to check, the only difference between the JFET transistor and bipolar transistor besides the naming, of course, it is that between the drain (equivalent of the collector) and the source (the emitter equivalent) we have a minimum value of a hundred or a dozen or a few dozen ohms, and in the case of the JFET is normal, in the case of a bipolar transistor
- a unipolar transistor with an insulated MOSFET gate, of course, also works on the diode or ohmmeter range, between the drain and the source when measuring probes are applied in one position there are no indications and after reversing there is a diode and voltage drop of about several hundred mV, having such probes, that there is this voltage drop of about several hundred mV, transfer the measuring probe from the source for about 3 seconds to the gate without taking the second probe from the drain and then translate again without removing the second probe from the drain from the gate to the source and then we should have a voltage drop of several dozen mV , we now attach the probe from the source to the drain and the probe from the drain to the gate for about 3 seconds, then the probe is now applied to the gate and the probe is now applied to the drain to the source and again we should have a voltage drop of about a few hundred mV, if so MOSFET transistor is j it is efficient, otherwise it is damaged
I could write about IGBT transistors, but once I have forgotten how it works (I will remember soon and how I will write it), and two would describe it too long.
Now, however, I will go to the subject, or how to check the thyristor and triac, or diode and diak with a multimeter in terms of efficiency and correctness. As far as I know, the thyristor is built of 4 semiconductor values in the PNPN system, where the first P (positive, i.e. . plus +) is an anode, then N (negative, i.e. minus) - there is no electrode connected, then the second P (positive, i.e., plus +) is Gate, and the second is N (negative, i.e. minus) This is my coda. Now my question is - why between the gate (P) and the cathode (N) the SCR conducts both sides of me, since it is a normal PN type semiconductor as in diodes and all kinds of transistors? I understand this behavior in the triac where two thyristors are connected antiparallel (parallel and in the opposite direction) so there (in triac) it is normal behavior,that between Gate and Anode 1 I have indications in both directions, but in the thyristor? How is it possible? Of course, measurements are made on the diode range, I have not tried on the ohmmeter yet. Theristor, which I measured was T22-10-10 like you wanted to know. When you enter this sign in google, say that it is a thyristor, and for me it works like a triac. I thought that maybe this thyristor is damaged, but I have several copies of this T22-10-10 and all behave the same, i.e. I have indications on the multimeter between the gate and the cathode on both sides in the diode range. Between anode and cathode is like everything in okay, because there are no indications either in one way or the other. If anyone of you can give me some tips then write. If the topic would be in the wrong section then please move to the appropriate department. I'm happy.
- fuses works on the so-called buzzer, if the fuse is OK, I will hear the buzzer's signal, otherwise the fuse will be fired
- the resistor is checked in the ohmic range (ohms), the resistor's resistance value is read directly from it, i.e. the value in ohms is given on it or the resistance value from the bar code is read, the first two bars are resistive, the third bar is the multiplier and the fourth if there is a tolerance, although it may also be that the first three bars are resistance digits, the fourth is the multiplier, the fifth tolerance, and the sixth temperature coefficient
- capacitor works on capacitance measurement (multimeter range on pF, nF or uF (whereby F, ie Farad is a basic unit), capacitance value reads directly from the capacitor, if the capacitance agrees, then the capacitor is almost certainly efficient, and almost that it is necessary to check the measured capacitor for puncture in the ohmmeter range just like a resistor, if the ohmmeter resistance value reaches infinity, it is OK, if the ohmmeter shows some specific resistance value then the capacitor is qualified for replacement because it has a punctured value dielectric, I also realize that even such measurements do not guarantee 100% efficiency of the capacitor, because you would still need to measure the ESR value of the capacitor on a special meter designed for this purpose, then we have 100% certainty that the condenser is certainly reporting of course, you should also remember about it, I should write about it at the beginning, that the capacitor should be completely discharged before any measurements, do not measure the charged capacitor, because it can cause serious damage to the multimeter
- diode (whether rectifying, LED, Zener, Shotki, etc.) works on the diode measurement range or, as a last resort, an ohmmeter, if the diode at the plus of the multimeter to the anode and minus to the cathode has a voltage drop of about several hundred mV (millivolts), and probe vice versa there is no indication that the diode is functional, otherwise it is damaged, analogically on the ohmmeter diode at the plus of the multimeter to the anode and minus to the cathode has a very high order of megaohms, but the specific value of the resistance, and probing the reverse ohmmeter should show infinity, otherwise the diode is damaged
- bipolar transistor (NPN and PNP) works just like a diode on the diode measurement range or, in the end, an ohmmeter, for the NPN plus multimeter transistor it is applied to the base and minus to the collector and the voltage drop is about a few hundred mV, then the minus multimeter is applied to the emitter and there should be a voltage drop of about a few hundred mV, if a transistor is built in some reverse diode, between the collector and the emitter you should also drop about a few hundred mV, if such a reverse diode does not have a transistor, of course, there should be no indication, reversing the multimeter measurement probes in all the aforementioned casesthere should be no indication, otherwise the NPN bipolar transistor is damaged, the PNP transistors are checked in the same way as the NPN only change the measuring probes, of course, on the ohmmeter bipolar transistors should behave in all the previously mentioned cases as diodes
- the Darlington transistor works very similar to the bipolar transistor except that after inverting the multimeter probes between the base and the emitter, there should be a voltage drop of about 1.5 V, there should be nothing in the bipolar and between the collector and the emitter this time there is always a diode reversing, and thus a voltage drop of around several hundred mV, in other cases everything looks the same as in a bipolar transistor
- JFET junctional unipolar transistor also works very much like the previous types of transistors with the difference that the base here is called a gate, collector with a drain, and the source emitter, remembering this new naming, proceed to check, the only difference between the JFET transistor and bipolar transistor besides the naming, of course, it is that between the drain (equivalent of the collector) and the source (the emitter equivalent) we have a minimum value of a hundred or a dozen or a few dozen ohms, and in the case of the JFET is normal, in the case of a bipolar transistor
- a unipolar transistor with an insulated MOSFET gate, of course, also works on the diode or ohmmeter range, between the drain and the source when measuring probes are applied in one position there are no indications and after reversing there is a diode and voltage drop of about several hundred mV, having such probes, that there is this voltage drop of about several hundred mV, transfer the measuring probe from the source for about 3 seconds to the gate without taking the second probe from the drain and then translate again without removing the second probe from the drain from the gate to the source and then we should have a voltage drop of several dozen mV , we now attach the probe from the source to the drain and the probe from the drain to the gate for about 3 seconds, then the probe is now applied to the gate and the probe is now applied to the drain to the source and again we should have a voltage drop of about a few hundred mV, if so MOSFET transistor is j it is efficient, otherwise it is damaged
I could write about IGBT transistors, but once I have forgotten how it works (I will remember soon and how I will write it), and two would describe it too long.
Now, however, I will go to the subject, or how to check the thyristor and triac, or diode and diak with a multimeter in terms of efficiency and correctness. As far as I know, the thyristor is built of 4 semiconductor values in the PNPN system, where the first P (positive, i.e. . plus +) is an anode, then N (negative, i.e. minus) - there is no electrode connected, then the second P (positive, i.e., plus +) is Gate, and the second is N (negative, i.e. minus) This is my coda. Now my question is - why between the gate (P) and the cathode (N) the SCR conducts both sides of me, since it is a normal PN type semiconductor as in diodes and all kinds of transistors? I understand this behavior in the triac where two thyristors are connected antiparallel (parallel and in the opposite direction) so there (in triac) it is normal behavior,that between Gate and Anode 1 I have indications in both directions, but in the thyristor? How is it possible? Of course, measurements are made on the diode range, I have not tried on the ohmmeter yet. Theristor, which I measured was T22-10-10 like you wanted to know. When you enter this sign in google, say that it is a thyristor, and for me it works like a triac. I thought that maybe this thyristor is damaged, but I have several copies of this T22-10-10 and all behave the same, i.e. I have indications on the multimeter between the gate and the cathode on both sides in the diode range. Between anode and cathode is like everything in okay, because there are no indications either in one way or the other. If anyone of you can give me some tips then write. If the topic would be in the wrong section then please move to the appropriate department. I'm happy.
