Identifying & Testing Unknown Component in Kitchen Mixer Image: Diodes, Capacitor & Motor

what is it and how do i check if it works?



[It is not possible to give an unambiguous answer. You need to scale and, if possible, bearing on the "donor" of the element. Mariusz Ch.]

Supplement:
1st scale


2nd item comes from a kitchen mixer that has stopped working (flooded with glue, condenser wheel):


I checked the diodes, I think they are good no breakdown - they all have a comparable resistance of about 0.6 Kohm. Engine - after supplying 12V from the power supply of the desk lamp (I have no other) it starts to buzz, so I assume it is ok. I thought it was a capacitor and I replaced it, but still nothing.
I'm not an electronics engineer but I'm trying to fix it. It is not profitable to bring your gear for repair, because it will exceed its value. From the agd forum my post was removed as a lowered level.

It can also be a thermal fuse ... try to trace the connections starting with the wires of the power cable, maybe something more known.

If the component was connected in series in the circuit, this may indicate a fuse.

How is this component connected, in series or in parallel? If in parallel there is a good chance it will work without it. It would be useful to remove the bottom of the plate or a photo of what the marking has on the plate of this element. From what I can see, if there is no speed control on the board, it may be a coil in the anti-interference filter.

The diode is not measured with an ohmmeter, but with a diode meter. Usually, ohmmeters measure with low voltage in mV, so when connected to a diode, it should not show resistance due to the voltage drop across the diode. Maybe the diodes are even broken. Maybe even as a result of this damaged element. Maybe the resistance is not a diode at all, but a completely different element. Provide more system characteristics and measurements. Ev. indicative diagram

And does this element in the picture have a transition or show a break?

@ Paul Es. - it seems so to me as a layman, but I do not know, the element has a break. There is some resistance in the range of 20M on the meter, the value is not constant - with each measurement something different, there is no constant increasing or decreasing tendency
@ picnic - I measured with a meter set to check the diodes (probably - when short-circuited it squeaks) - they do not have a short circuit, all conduct in one direction and just testing them so the display shows a value of about 640-650 (mV? ohm?).
@ the milkman - does not share with him or without him
I will add what you can see in the photo, the element on the board is marked with TCO. The yellow one is a capacitor soldered by me, larger than the original one, but the parameters are the same (according to the seller in electronics).
Maybe it will help (I marked with arrows where I desoldered this something):




Anyway, thanks for your interest.

marekpc wrote:

@ Paul Es. - it seems so to me as a layman, but I do not know, the element has a break. There is some resistance in the range of 20M on the meter, the value is not constant - with each measurement something different, there is no constant increasing or decreasing tendency
@ picnic - I measured with a meter set to check the diodes (probably - when short-circuited it squeaks) - they do not have a short circuit, all conduct in one direction and just testing them so the display shows a value of about 640-650 (mV? ohm?).
@ the milkman - does not share with him or without him
I will add what you can see in the photo, the element on the board is marked with TCO. The yellow one is a capacitor soldered by me, larger than the original one, but the parameters are the same (according to the seller in electronics).
Maybe it will help (I marked with arrows where I soldered this something out):




Anyway, thanks for your interest.

Not a miss, it's a one-time thermal fuse ... .. this sign 85C may indicate its activation temperature ... :?

Najwyraźniej macie rację.
Ze strony Link

Quote:

The TCO (Thermal Cut-Off) responds to temperature by interrupting an electrical circuit when the operating and/or environmental temperature exceeds the thermal rating of the device. This is accomplished when the internal organic pellet experiences a phase change, allowing the spring activated contacts to permanently open the circuit.

Tutaj jest pedeef pokazujący budowę wewnętrzną Link

Pozdrawiam

The scheme of this board looks like this (drawn):



It would be worth checking in the mixer manual, in the chapter on parameters, what current consumes, then you could choose an element.

The one in the photo is probably additionally encased and poured with some cement or silicone and the markings are internal of the manufacturer.

Unfortunately, after soldering the 250V 113st.C thermal fuse (I got one), I turned on the mixer, it flashed in the engine and the plug blew out. I checked the engine, I took it apart, the brushes are there, the springs are ok, and I can't check anything in the engine. After connecting the power supply from the 12V desk lamp, it hums. It works like a vibrator, it spins both ways at a fraction of a turn. Is this the normal behavior of a 230V motor powered by 12V. I guess I'll give up. I replaced the defective fuse and thought it would be over. I checked everything I could (as per my abilities).
Probably some kind of engine malfunction. Is there an easy way to check it - just out of curiosity, because I will not mention it anyway.

Hello.


Evidently damaged diodes (now, maybe the motor.) It is a DC motor with excitation from permanent magnets and when powered by AC voltage it will vibrate, but the rotor will not rotate.

Kisses

Hmm, is there any inscriptions on this engine suggesting its supply voltage ???

And what kind of mixer is it, what type, what production, because this information is missing?

I am beginning to wonder if this is for sure the fuse itself, and not some series circuit lowering the voltage protected by this thermal fuse.

My doubts are raised by the way it is installed in the system. These TCO fuses disconnect the system due to the EXTERNAL temperature (hence the name) and not to the current flow (except for a short circuit or a very strong overload heating the fuse to the activation temperature).

And in this system you can see that this "fuse" is enclosed and far from the engine, so it is not its heat that will open the fuse. The capacitor or the extinguishing system next to it also does not get hot enough to disconnect the TCO fuse, unless there is a heater + TCO combine in this case, which disconnects at overload ...

The logical conclusion (not necessarily the correct one, of course) may be that there is something more in this casing of this strange element and that this "something" is protected by a fuse. There may be a system lowering the engine supply voltage (just such a small malice of the manufacturer that the device would be unrepairable or repairable only in the service center). Of course, I can be wrong ...

The diodes must be checked with a meter set to test the diodes, after disconnecting one of the motor terminals from the board.

Connect the minus (COM output of the meter) to the tip with the dash on the housing, and the plus on the other end, the meter should show approx. 0.6 to 0.8V. In reverse connection, it should show a circuit break. When measuring one way across the motor terminals, the gauge should show from. 1.2 to 1.6V and a second break.


The motor can be checked by connecting 12V to the place shown in the picture, if you try to rotate, it is good and it can also confirm the voltage-limiting function of this damaged element (it may turn out that there is, for example, a triac with a control system).

Paweł Es. wrote:

Hmm, are there any inscriptions on this engine suggesting its supply voltage ???
And what is this mixer, what type, what production, because this information is missing?

on the motor is: DC751 (2) XLLG 230V 50Hz, blender / mixer PHILIPS 600W - on the housing, I do not know more precise, very similar or the one:
http://www.agd-rtv.net/product_info.php?cPath=21_39&products_id=13463

Paweł Es. wrote:

The diodes must be checked with a meter set to test the diodes, after disconnecting one of the motor terminals from the board.

- I checked after removing the plate and disconnecting the engine

Paweł Es. wrote:

Connect the minus (COM output of the meter) to the tip with the dash on the housing, and the plus on the other end, the meter should show approx. 0.6 to 0.8V. In reverse connection, it should show a circuit break. When measuring one way across the motor terminals, the gauge should show from. 1.2 to 1.6V and a second break.

- so I measured, the values are correct

Paweł Es. wrote:

The motor can be checked by connecting 12V to the place shown in the picture, if you try to rotate, it is good and it can also confirm the voltage-limiting function of this damaged element (it may turn out that there is, for example, a triac with a control system).

- I did so and bowed my head, I thought that "after the birds" and here the engine came to life - turns it on, so I did not break anything (yet) and did not burn it - strange
Gentlemen (and ladies?), Tomorrow I will try to get inside the mysterious element as non-invasively as possible and present the contents, if it helps.

It is already known what this engine is:

http://www.johnsonelectric.com/mediando/index.php?IdTreeGroup=49&IdProduct=1312

It's just interesting that the engine has, according to the manufacturer, a maximum power of 188W and the mixer according to Philips 600W ... must be perpetual motion ))

The manufacturer of the motor, in turn, supplies it with 230V DC (direct current) with a frequency of 50Hz ) we live in interesting times ...

Unfortunately, gentlemen, my little one "cleaned" this part for good. I do not know if the element was dismountable and it could be "opened", but you can get confused. If you can't find out about the photos, it's probably the end of the mixer story.
Regards

Hello.

No panic. Find a household appliance store in your city and you can try to buy it. Picture of the item you have Oooo, I see one on Reja Street 2. ;)

Kisses

I had 9 pieces of these blenders, I replaced the dead diodes, turned on, flashed and the diodes ... For me, damaged motors, although when checking with Ohmmers, they do not have a short circuit. In a few plays, in the place of the element the author writes about, there is (originally) a fuse.

Replace the diodes on the board and connect the whole thing through a 230V 75W bulb. Either the bulb flashes or it spins.

@**Mariusz** Ch. - although I'm not an optimist, if only because of the fact that in skl. electronic, they rated the element as a thermal protector, so I will do it and check it. with household parts
@Logan - is the motor connection as described by Paweł Es. does not verify the engine as operational?
@kortyleski - I do not know if connecting the system in its current state (with soldered thermal fuse) makes sense because something is clearly wrong - the plug broke, if I leave it at the end

TCO - Thermal Cut Out like something ...

If you connect it in SERIES with a light bulb, it will not break out the plugs. If it turns, check first if you made a banal error, check the capacitor (I check, for example, with a diode meter or an ohmmeter - then the resistance slowly increases)

You also desoldered diodes like @Logan? If so, check if you have them well (as in one of the pictures).

It is also possible that the problem appears only at higher voltages (partially punctured diodes or a short circuit in the motor windings), but an autotransformer and an ammeter would be used to check this.

unfortunately, after connecting through the light bulb, the mixer does not work, the light bulb is on - does this confirm engine damage or damage to the control system?

If the motor does not buzz or even try to rotate, it indicates that the diodes are pierced and this is evident at higher voltages. If they are diodes, replace them (preferably all). on 1N5408 (3A, 1000V).

It is possible that the overvoltage on the motor has damaged one of the diodes (diodes)

I replaced the diodes and connected through the bulb. The system shines but does not spin. Helping the engine with the system on, it makes a fraction of a turn and stops. The only element not replaced with a new one is the engine, so the matter is clarified. The mystery of the mysterious element remains. Thanks for your interest and help.