Which driver for Vitodens 100? It is possible to steer. hot water

Sławo1 has nothing to do with the Vitodens 100

personally, I have had the Vitodens 100 stove with the Euroster 2005 controller for several years, and unlike "Zientas", I don't think it is difficult to use, quite the opposite. It is very comfortable and practical. I am very pleased with it. You can set the program that suits you best or choose the one suggested by the manufacturer, so you have the choice. Mostly ok for me.

You can use any weekly regulator - the so-called thermostat - Auraton, Eroster or Vitotrol 100 for the Vitodens. You will not see the outside temperature in the Vitodens 100

I took the liberty of digging up an old thread.
acc. of the Vitodens 100-W WB1B manual, the timer or receiver of the Vitotrol 100 UTD-RF is connected to terminal X7 (24V, CH2, GND, CH1).
reading further in the manual: channel 1 is used to control heating and channel 2 is used to control DHW heating
This is how it is with this CWU in the end
yes or no?
I have Vitotrol UTD in the wired version, so I do not have this control and I have no way to check it at home.
Does anyone have a set like this:
Vitodens 100-W WB1B + Vitotrol UTD-RF?

according to this scheme, it is possible to control the temperature and operating time of DHW as much as possible.
You can also use Openterm drivers and there is certainly such a possibility.
The issue of cooperation between individual controller models is only a physical connection, on the openterm website Viessmann does not appear as certified.

well, according to this, yes, only this is associated with significant modifications to the existing installation, and my question concerned the UTD-RF, which theoretically has DHW heating control and the furnace has a control input in theory (CH2 on X7)
Does anyone have this kit and it works for them?

And you can send me a link where you have the described x7 connector, then I will try to fight and send something to PW in a while.

I will look for the instruction in which it was and send it, but from what I wrote down it is from the left: +24V CH2 GND CH1
CH1 - heating control
CH2 - DHW control
Contact-wise, it doesn't work (I tried), I read somewhere that there are supposedly some time dependencies on these inputs, so direct 24V shorting to CH2 or CH1 does nothing.
A digital time switch or a Vitotrol 100 UTD-RF or UTDB-RF2 is connected there
Actually, I'm thinking of a different, pathological solution.
Switch the HUW into the COMFORT function in order to maintain a higher boiler temperature, and control this heating by parallel connection of a resistor to the boiler temperature sensor.
When I do not want to heat, I add 10k, the temperature in the boiler remains around 20 degrees at rest, so after such a procedure the temperature should be simulated around 40-50 degrees if I counted correctly.
Turning on the heating from the automatic device will disconnect this additional resistor so as not to disturb the operation of the stove in the heating mode.
If there's any mistake in my thinking, please correct me

But rf are, as far as I remember, radio controllers, the receiver goes there. Therefore, a simple short-circuit will not necessarily work, there are also no programs for hot water in these controllers, perhaps they control hot water on / off, but I haven't seen them for a long time, so I don't remember. They are so ugly that people don't want them (I belong to this group privately).
What you wrote is a variation of the control that is in the diagram above, slightly differently solved.

If you can't tell what the temperature is, you can trick him into thinking it's different. This is how you can control all analog ntc, ptc, etc. sensors

fact, utdb is as ugly as a german athlete
I just have UTD in the contact version.
All in all you are right, as I started to analyze the above diagram in detail and it is a similar solution.
I will find a free moment, I will assemble a few relays and see how it will behave with 10k attached

If you control the resistance of the sensor, then put shunt resistances on the relay's contacts so as not to open the circuit, because it may cause errors. but it's a matter of checking)
Use only good relays, so as not to give any voltage to the working contacts, because it will collapse the boiler plate.

I am an automation engineer by trade, so I have access to branded industrial relays
I will only open the additional 10k resistor, after opening the sensor with its resistance will remain in the circuit. The only unknown is how the boiler will behave after a step resistance change from 6k to 15k (about 40oC to 20oC)
this is this: