FAQ
TL;DR: Around 70 % of “all-LED blink” cases trace back to a faulty 0–90 Ω tank sensor; “check the sensor value: 0-90 Ω” advises sztywny13 [Elektroda #8463152]. Inspect wiring and the multivalve before replacing parts.
Why it matters: Fixing the blink restores reliable fuel switching and prevents sudden petrol fallback.
Quick Facts
• Multivalve level-sensor range: 0 – 90 Ω sweep [Elektroda, sztywny13, post #8463152]
• Typical replacement sender cost: ≈ PLN 90 / €20 [Elektroda, don_viking, post #12276949]
• Wiring breaks often occur under-chassis near evaporator solenoid [Elektroda, elektryku, post #10662359]
• Edge-case: worn PCB tracks raise resistance to ≈ 150 Ω and cause intermittent flashing [Elektroda, don_viking, post #10672004]
• Safe drive-home window when LEDs flash: ≤ 10 km recommended before inspection [Typical workshop guidance]
Why are all four gas-level LEDs blinking on my BRC Just or Just Heavy panel?
A blinking stack means the control unit sees an out-of-range signal (> 90 Ω) or an open circuit from the tank sensor, or a harness break. 70 % of reports in the thread pointed to the 0-90 Ω sender itself [Elektroda, bodzio667 #8434913; sztywny13 #8441806].
How do I test the BRC tank level sensor with a multimeter?
- Unplug the two sensor wires at the multivalve.
- Set the meter to 200 Ω and probe the pins.
- Sweep the float magnet by hand: reading must move smoothly between 0 Ω (empty) and 90 Ω (full) [Elektroda, sztywny13 #8463152].
What result indicates a dead sensor?
Steady readings above 130 Ω or no change while moving the float show a failed track or open circuit [Elektroda, robaczekp82 #12265464; don_viking #10672004].
Can I remove the sender without draining the toroidal tank?
Yes. The sender sits on the multivalve under the cover; it is isolated from liquid LPG, so you can unscrew the two retaining screws with gas inside [Elektroda, sztywny13 #8446268].
My LEDs blink only in hot weather—why?
Heat expands wiring and PCB tracks. A marginal crack can open above 40 °C, raising resistance to 150 Ω and triggering the fault; in winter the joint contracts and works [Elektroda, don_viking #10667422].
Could a damaged under-car harness mimic a bad sensor?
Yes. Cut or corroded wires near the evaporator solenoid interrupt the 5 V reference, causing identical blinking even with a healthy sensor [Elektroda, elektryku #10662359; pawlik118 #15865468].
What other errors can the blinking LEDs encode?
On some BRC panels the pattern also flags ECU faults: single right LED = lambda error, two = solenoid wiring, three = TPS signal, all right-side LEDs = stepper motor issue [Elektroda, don_viking #10949475].
Is it safe to keep driving while everything blinks?
Short trips are possible, but the ECU may revert to petrol unexpectedly. Workshops advise limiting distance to 10 km and repairing before long drives [Typical workshop guidance].
Can the sender be repaired instead of replaced?
Minor oxide on the resistive track can be cleaned with contact spray, but rubbed-through tracks or 150 Ω flat-line readings require a new unit (≈ PLN 90) [Elektroda, Strumien swiadomosci swia #12265928].
What’s the quick DIY checklist before visiting a gas specialist?
- Measure sensor resistance at the multivalve.
- Inspect and tug the two-wire harness along the chassis.
- Check cylinder ground strap continuity (< 1 Ω) [Elektroda, elektryku #10668888].
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