VECTRA 1.9 CDTI 2006 - P2279 Air Intake System Leak, Power Loss at Low Revs, EGR Issues

Hello.

I have a problem with my Vectra (2006, 1.9 CDTI 150 KM engine), which I have had for 3 months. I will tell the story chronologically in points:
1. One day I notice that the car lost power at low revs, it accelerates terribly slowly to about 2,000 rpm, and regains power above 2,000 rpm.
2. The next day, the "car with a key" light comes on
3. I read the forums and all the symptoms point to the possibility of a broken EGR. I exclude a broken intake manifold because I replaced it a month ago.
4. I go to the Opel service, I have a computer connected and I find out about the P2279 error (leak detected in the air intake system), after which the service technician definitely makes a diagnosis that the EGR is broken. I receive such a diagnosis in writing and pay PLN 230. EGR in the service costs 800.
5. I am looking for a new EGR off-site. I find in the online store, the same, original for PLN 400.
6. However, I do not buy EGR because I find a lot of posts about EGR cleaning, apparently it is a common thing.
7. In the meantime, the indicator light of the car with the key goes out, but the engine indicator light comes on...
8. Finds posts regarding the EGR plug, introduced and recommended by FIAT (with 4 holes) - buys it directly from FIAT with 2 gaskets (PLN 70)
9. I decide not to buy a new EGR, but to take the car to the workshop for EGR cleaning and installation of a plug with holes. I do that.
10. The EGR was cleaned in the workshop (apparently it was very zasyfiony) and these plugs were put on.
11. I call this workshop during the day and find out that this procedure did not help, the car still slugs below 2500 rpm. In addition, I find out that the computer showed the error "Air flow sensor" - but I did not get the error code because it was deleted. So the guy from the workshop says it's the flow meter - but I tell them to look for the cause further. He also tells me that the EGR is definitely working - I don't know where this certainty comes from, because I heard that even if it is cleaned, the solenoid valve may not work properly, so it is not always possible to check it "visually"
12. After another 2 hours of checking the car, the guest calls me and says that he contacted a friend from the Opel service and together they agreed that the EGR is OK, the flow meter is also (some temporary error) and the reason should be sought in ... clogged DPF.. I recommend a plant where DPFs are removed mechanically and programmatically from the computer.
13. I'm calling this recommended workshop (they deal with chip tuning and DPF removal). The guest tells me that I have to come and check the DPF clogging level. I immediately ask if he will turn on his forced burning in case of something - but he claims that his computer can't do it.
14. I'm going to this workshop, we connect the computer and ... here are the measurement results I remember:
DPF saturation: 104%
DPF differential pressure: -11
B1S1 Flue gas temperature -40 °C*
B1S2 Flue gas temperature -40 °C*
there were 2 more measurements related to the EGR, which indicated alternately 4% and 96% depending on what speed the engine was at - based on these values, the guest said that the EGR is definitely OK, but of course the DPF is zasyfiony and you need the best completely remove it as soon as possible (because if I continue to drive on a clogged one, I will damage the turbine). The computer also showed the engine error P2279 - which is the same as it was from the very beginning. There was also information that the computer tried to burn the DPF 1 kilometer ago - which meant that it tries to burn the DPF all the time but fails. It is very puzzling here why the exhaust gas temperature is -40 C and has not changed at all. Is the temperature sensor broken or disconnected??? I don't know how to understand this data. I am also wondering that this temperature value does not affect the possible erroneous indication of DPF saturation? - somewhere I found a post that someone after replacing this sensor dropped DPF saturation ... I also think if the previous owner did not accidentally set up some emulator for the DPF?

Please help me what to do next ... I wonder if I should remove this DPF in the dark? Some recommend cleaning. Where should I go with this? Or maybe it's not the DPF, but the computer's incorrect indications and only the EGR is broken???

I am asking you for help and possibly advice on where to go with these matters in the Tri-City.

Heh, my friend, he almost wrote a book. None of these "mechanics" should be called a mechanic because he can only read errors that are not known if they have been there or now, and he can't do diagnostics by reading parameters. I see it like this: Leak in the air intake system ok but above 2,000. obr the leak disappears because it's ok? Probably not. After cleaning egr. there should be some difference if that was the cause. DPF here are quite "eggs" deals with their removal and regeneration, so after these readings the car should be in emergency mode. Maybe it's clogged, and those removal specialists should turn it off in the ecu and see if there is a difference to rule it out. (But they can only remove and delete the best PLN 1,500). Buddy, in my opinion, the cause is too low fuel pressure. So the fuel pressure regulator is dead. Go to a real diagnostician, connect the computer and see the fuel pressure while driving, not just at a standstill.

I live a bit from the Tri-City so I don't know anyone good from these parts but maybe there will be someone who can recommend someone.

Approx.

What about the swirl flap valve?

What are those gaskets with holes in the EGR area?

Why is the cpf temperature -40 C?

fuelinyourblood wrote:

okay

what about the swirl flap valve?

what are those gaskets with holes in the EGR area?

why is cpf temp -40c

The swirl flap valves are certainly OK because, as I wrote a month ago, I replaced the intake manifold (in which the swirl flaps are) together with the swirl flap controller (motor).
As for the EGR gasket - when cleaning the EGR, as I wrote, it was put on me. I bought it in FIAT - because it is a Fiat engine (also installed in Alfas, Opels and Saabs). Fiat noticed that this EGR gets too dirty and introduced such blanking plugs between the EGR and the engine for official sale on websites, but they do not completely cover the EGR because they have 4 "holes", so the EGR works, it does not throw an error, but it does get dirty less.

Here's more info on these caps:

EGR valve blanking plate for JTD (1.9 16v and 2.4 20v) Multijet engines in the case of Opel 1.9CDTI Z19DTH 150KM engine).In these engines, it is impossible to completely blank off the EGR valve, because it will cause the error "Motor Control System Failure".The part with this shape was designed by Fiat engineers - Fiat catalog number is 71751468. The installation of this plug is in accordance with the service solution No. 10801491RA for M-jet engines. The plug is made of 316L stainless steel and is resistant to high temperatures and chemically aggressive environment. Installation method: The plug is mounted between the intake manifold and the EGR valve before 11 in this drawing: Benefits of Design: When the blanking plug is installed in the EGR valve, the exhaust gas recirculation opening is significantly reduced, extending the proper operation of the valve, and reduces the amount of impurities in the intake manifold. An additional effect is the lack of the frequent jerking of the revolutions in the range of 2000-3000 rpm, caused by the drop in the boost pressure in the first phase of acceleration, when the EGR has not yet closed. The car picks up clearly better from the very bottom - there is no rpm fluctuation when driving at 1500 rpm and pressing the accelerator pedal all the way - the car accelerates immediately."

And if you are talking about this temperature -40 degrees - I do not know what it is supposed to be ..... and I wonder if it is not a source of problems with the DPF??

Added after 2 [hours] 29 [minutes]:

bartez844 wrote:

Mota, if you want, I'll do it to you, just don't drive after you mechanics and don't write stupid these parameters, who read you and what

And where and when could you help me?

I think you did wrong that you did not buy this egr for 4 packages. According to me, this is the only corpus delicti.

Moderated By Przemo9826:

I invite my friend to learn the correct Polish spelling.

VENDETTI wrote:

I think you did wrong that you did not buy this egr for 4 packages. According to me, this is the only corpus delicti.

Let him check the valve himself. You unscrew it and see if there is a clearance. you move it a little and check if it closes.

I still have a question, what was this car read?

Every error code read from tech2 or something else specific has its own tgzw symptom. If you have P2279(11), then the problem is definitely in the air intake system - see the manifold. Since someone has already replaced it, do a performance test of swirl flaps. As for the DPF, the permissible pressure difference = -3: 3, saturation above 100% can not be burned while driving, you have to risk and burn the computer or disassemble and clean. In no case do not let yourself be persuaded to knock it out, drill it and other nonsense of this type!!

A guy came to me with the same problem. At first I bet on the flow but after the replacement the car was still in the same condition as before the replacement. Then I drove up to a friend who deals only with diesel engines and he said that the car has a partially clogged catalytic converter and with it a diesel particulate filter.

Problem solved - it was just about EGR ... I found a workshop that dealt with the problem comprehensively and solved it. Cleaning the EGR could not help - the solenoid valve in the EGR was damaged. After replacing the EGR with a new car, it immediately "revived" !!
And when it comes to the DPF - it is supposedly "cut out" in my vectra - you can't see it.

I just wanted to suggest it to you. I had the same problem a few days ago in AR159 1.9jtdm. It was sluggish to 2.5000 rpm. It turned out that the EGR valve is quite clean but the solenoid is blocked. A bit of Wurth, the pin began to bounce and the car accelerated All for PLN 40 and 1 hour of work.

pull the valve and see if the intake manifold is not loaded with soot

On the vectra forum there is a description of how to turn the solenoid back on at home.
A friend has already made 35,000. Astra H 1.9CDTI after such cleaning and everything is ok.

Recently he had a problem with working on 3 cylinders, the problem turned out to be a fragment of the beam on the engine, it was enough to replace the sections of 15 cm and it's calm

Hello to all those who, after great battles with the p2279 error in 1.9cdti, have a desire to set fire to it. My case in a vectra with a 150 km motor begins when a tow truck with this car enters the square and the client says, please fix it, I count the costs. starting, smoking terribly, broken turbine, regeneration, well, it's already pumping, we'll burn the oil from the exhaust, we'll smoke a little and it'll be ok, and here's the lack of power and this terrible error 2279, we keep looking, it turns out that the flaps in the manifold got such a slack, that the pressure escapes into the atmosphere, well, the new collector, it's better, but it still hisses and does not go, the unsealed intercooler is replaced with a new one with the hope of the end of repair and then lime, it does not hiss anymore, but under load on the troika emergency mode and 2279, so we are looking we read that 99% of cases are egr, but its blanking does nothing, maybe dpf burnout ..., the procedure begins and after a minute it turns off because it pops up 2279. hmm ... I skip the fact of replacing the flow and pressure sensor for testing fuel injection pressure set replacing the timing belt, etc. basic matters. And one day, after many consultations, a very wise man who fought like us for a month with this hopeless case, suggested checking the setting of the camshafts among themselves, and it turned out that the intake shaft was shifted in relation to the exhaust shaft, the correction and finally a success, there is power, it moves nicely and has not crashed even once,, 2279 leak in the intake system,, I hope that this topic will save someone's nerves and time, if it helped you, write how you are happy

To the author of the post above:
How much is the repair bill? :P

To the author of the topic:
EGR Original or replacement?

The problem is trivially simple. Turbine control solenoid valve.

Hello,
I have a "liked" problem with my Astra 1.9 cdti 150 km. For a long time I have been struggling with the problem of lack of power, switching to service mode. The error code that appears is p2279 5b. The car has already been at the mechanic's for 3 weeks and during this time:
- the egr was cleaned and plated,
- the tubrin has been regenerated,
- pressure sensor replaced.

The car drove for a few days without any complaints, then the problem returned, again check engine and service mode and the same error code. I'm going to the same mechanic tomorrow, but just thinking about how much hay has already gone and that it appeared again, that I'm going to hell is an understatement.

Please any suggestions and tips.
Thanks in advance.

It was the same with my Zafira with this engine and finally it turned out that the plastics on the swirl flap control strip were worn off and it fell down and lay quietly on the intake manifold. For allegro PLN 60, brass wonders for the slat, the error has been deleted and Zosia is running as if she were a year or two old.
Such a piece of crap and many people didn't notice.
Check at home whether the vortexes work when adding gas. Just remove the plastic cover on the engine, start it and look down at the intake manifold.
Good luck.

Hello, maybe it will help someone zafira b 1.9cdti dth - I had something like that when accelerating the car and releasing the gas (not always) there was an error 2279 leak in the intake system after holding the car, no matter what gear, 2000,000 rpm, the error disappeared by itself, the car had power back . I started with damaged swirl flaps - replacement of the collector with a blank one (it was still the same) egr cleaning - a lot of crap but it didn't help much, only the frequency of the persistent error and power drop changed (he did it less often) I connected the car to the service computer, the egr was checked and dpf everything ok but the mechanic said that the sensor located on the intake manifold is a bit cheating - I was supposed to unscrew it and clean it - so I did it was almost all dead but it works - I can accelerate, for example, to 150km/h and let go of gas even up to 40km/h error.

Hello, I also have a problem with the p2279 5B error, only for me the situation looks like that the power is supposedly everything is ok but very often the car enters the dpf burnout mode and smokes white blue in the car I replaced the dpfa intake manifold egr regenerated injections the pump was also checked maybe anyone had a similar case

And what does it mean often, because at the beginning I had about 750 kilometers driven after all the treatments I described above and replacing the oil with lm4600 I have burnout after driving 900 kilometers my mechanic who works in the Opel service said that every 500 is also the norm

Well, sometimes I have a 3-day burnout. I do it, sometimes twice a day, and this smoking is a massacre

Added after 2 [minutes]:

And as far as I know, in a mixed cycle, burning is in the range from 400 to 700 km and on routes from 900 to 1500 km

Complementing the knowledge base of the forum.
I had an error P2279-5B vectra c 1.9 150 horses 19DTH
According to the suggestions, I replaced the EGR and the throttle, although according to the tests they were functional. But actually, as colleagues wrote, there was oil in the electronics from the throttle. so it was worth cleaning., however, all this was not the cause.

The fault turned out to be a trivial metal strip connecting all the flaps, visible to the naked eye from the top of the engine, fell and detached lying loose, causing each flap to be open to a different degree. Plastic fasteners have been made. Reinstalling them solved the problem definitively

As for the collector and flaps themselves - I recommend:
https://youtu.be/7AT789XgAo8

>>17538238 .
Hi,
I would like to know if you have dealt with this problem. I have exactly the same thing at my place.
Please do not hesitate to ask for help and best regards,
Marek