Connecting Junkers WRDP 14 2B Gas Stove to 130 Diameter Pipe with Coupler

I would sometimes prefer to look for solutions and advice in different sources and save 100 or 200 zloty.

The most important thing is to save 100PLN, or you will gas the whole family with chad without knowing what you are doing.

The pipe is inserted directly into the stove (into this spigot, which is permanently installed in the stove). For this type of stove, no intermediate couplers are needed (while for the smaller Junkers, an adapter is given, as it has a spigot for a pipe of 110 mm. diameter, and this stove, which is in this topic, has a spigot of 130 mm. diameter). The spiro pipe has a diameter of 125 mm. as the manufacturers of this pipe probably give the inner diameter (but the outer diameter is about 130 mm.).

Precisely the snag is that the pipe did not want to go directly into the stove, which was even stated by the gas engineer installing the stove for me. For this reason, I am looking for a solution to the situation.

On a side note, as to the words of the earlier speaker, don't worry about my health and that of my family, because I am aware of the danger of chad.

For the model 14 2B is suitable for a pipe with a diameter of 135, it overlaps tightly on the outside of the stove's flue outlet spigot. Without any reductions.

valdimazur thanks for the advice. Only again (problems themselves) I have newly installed plates and cut a hole for a 130 mm diameter pipe. Is there possibly a 135 - 130 reducer ?

I understand that you have attached to the wall a metal rosette with a diameter of 130 , This rosette can probably be taken out and put a larger one , or if there is no rosette then enlarge the hole in the wall a little ( you need 5 mm on the diameter ), or cut along a little spiro pipe reduce its diameter and push it into the existing hole.

paw.m wrote:

The snag is that the pipe did not want to go directly into the stove, which was even stated by the gas fitter installing the stove for me. For this reason, I am looking for a solution to the situation.

By the way, as to the words of an earlier speaker, do not worry about my health and my family, because I realize the danger of chad.

If you knew the danger, you would not install, I think, aluminum spiro pipe.
Such pipes are approved only for ventilation and not for flue gas.
Have not many people poisoned themselves?

valdimazur wrote:

For the model 14 2B is suitable for a tube with a diameter of 135, it fits tightly on the outside of the stove exhaust. Without any reductions.

It is supposed to be a 125 mm. spiro, which enters exactly inside the spigot (this pipe is called 125 mm., because that's how much me inner diameter, and the outer has 130mm.). The spigot is spelled the same as the short one, that is, with an ó!!!

DonRomano, I do not have an aluminum pipe, but a pipe of acid-resistant steel (otherwise - flex type). This pipe meets the requirements and can be safely used.

Other users thank you sincerely for your advice.

And that is very sorry. .

Hello,
The house I moved into has a Saunierduval 8.6-19.2 KW gas flow heater. I need to change the flue pipe and choose its diameter. The stove has a flue hole fi 110, behind it is added an expansion ring to fi 130 and to the chimney leads a pipe fi 130.
I will be changing the pipe to acid-resistant flex. What should I choose the diameter of the duct, is 110 enough ? (this is the hole in the stove before expansion)

Φ110 provided (calculated)by the manufacturer, then such use. Decent manufacturers offer adapters from the outside diameter of the spiro to the inside diameter of the draft breaker.

Gentlemen I have a Saunier Duval C11 Opalia gas stove and for it is required a flue pipe fi 110 to the inside of the stub.
I have such a pipe and for nothing wants to enter completely.
Acid resistant flue pipe is put on by some method?

Thank you.

If you give the smoke pipe to the inside of the stove's chimney socket, then there will be opportunities for flue gases to flow out into the room. You need to give the smoke pipe to the outside of the flange of the stove's chimney socket, then you will protect yourself from exhaust gas leaks. What matters is the direction of the flow of the medium, in chimney installations it is the opposite of sewer systems, because in the latter the "medium" flows naturally, i.e. downwards. Each successive section of the smoke pipe is supposed to overlap the previous one, not go into it, to put it in the simplest terms. The flue gases from a gas stove do not have any great pressure, and no great sealing is necessary, as long as the elements go well into their sockets. Remember, too, that the horizontal section of the smoke pipe must have the appropriate minimum rise and not too long, this is, by the way, specified in the standards, from what I remember, depends on the diameter of the smoke pipe, and also the manufacturer of stoves also certainly has this matter restrictions.

maciejkao wrote:

If you give the smoke pipe to the inside of the stove's chimney socket, there will be opportunities for flue gases to flow out into the room. You need to give the smoke pipe to the outside of the flange of the stove's chimney socket, then you will protect yourself from exhaust leaks. What matters is the direction of the flow of the medium, in chimney installations is the opposite of sewer installations, because in the latter the "medium" flows naturally, i.e. downwards. Each successive section of the flue pipe is supposed to overlap the previous one, not go into it, to put it in the simplest terms j. The exhaust from a gas stove does not have any great pressure, and no great sealing is necessary, as long as the elements go well into their sockets. Remember, too, that the horizontal section of the smoke pipe must have the appropriate minimum rise and not too long, this is, by the way, specified in the standards, from what I remember, depends on the diameter of the smoke pipe, and also the manufacturer of stoves also certainly has this matter restrictions.

Read again with understanding what I wrote -. means in a sewer system it is the other way around - each successive section enters the preceding one .

In these stoves (junkers wrdp 14 2b) it is so that the "draft breaker" has a double spigot - in it there is also (with a height of less than 1 centimeter) a second spigot with a slightly smaller diameter. So, as you put in this pipe with fi (inner) 125 mm (that is, the outer diameter of 130 mm.)-this shortest spigot goes into the pipe and the slightly longer one (a few centimeters) covers the pipe from the outside. Surely the pipe made of acid is better (as if the stove was unregulated, operated at a power higher than the nominal, and there would be a completely burnt-out heater, then the exhaust gas can be much hotter than the stove manufacturer predicted - I met with something like this in the case of an unregulated PG-6 with a burnt-out heater, where even the normal sheet metal pipe burnt out).

what diameter fi pipe for exhaust is in junkers wrp11 b23?
thanks in advance for info

Measure or check the manual. It is certainly standardized.