Hello everyone. He writes because I have no idea how to adjust the pressure in a pressure booster system consisting of an MH1300 inox pump and a 100L expansion tank. My question concerns the operating pressure at which the pump should turn on and off, as well as the air pressure that should be in the water tank. Thank you very much for any tips and I look forward to your reply. Greetings!
Well, it also depends on, for example, the distance of the receiver from the hydrophore and the water demand.
The distances from the hydrophore and the demand are the required flow, not the pressure, although one of the other is related to the messed up system.
After all, one atmosphere is 10 meters of water column. In a single-family house, a pressure of 2-2.5 at is sufficient for the proper operation of the hydrophore. turn on and 3-3.5 at. turn off. It is a pity for the pump and electricity.
Hello everyone, I have a hydrophore like my colleague who started the topic, a 400l tank. The water pump is in the basement, the highest point in the attic. Something's wrong, yeah, that the washing machine at the top started to turn off because it was not getting water (the pressure in the installation was dropping), it was necessary to turn on the tap water on the ground floor, for the pump to start, I figured I had to do something about it, and it got even bigger. Namely, I decided to turn up the pressure in the pressure switch Now the pump did not stop it hit 4 bar and could walk all night, so with the second adjustment screw I reduced the switch-off pressure, but this one seems to be completely unresponsive. I also tried to pump air into the tank, and it turned into such a mess that my head aches. I would call a handyman, but they are traditional in the area, by trial and error maybe I will do the same with your help. Give me something.
Start by pumping air into the tank. After a few years, leaks may appear at the top of the tank. You can check it by spreading soap suds or Ludwik's with a brush.
Start by pumping air into the tank. After a few years, leaks may appear at the top of the tank. You can check it by spreading soap suds or Ludwik's with a brush.
I mean the tank without the diaphragm. Is there no water coming out when pressing this air pumping valve?
What is it not? A valve? It's like an inner tube of a peasant's cart, and water It does not fly this way, at most you can deflate the air. And how to pump up the air? Because I first drain the water, turn it off pump, but I do not know, do you need to close the valve on the installation?
So the diaphragm is intact. So it looks like trouble with the pressure switch. On this switch, the water presses through the rubber diaphragm, maybe it is damaged, only then the water would come from this switch.
So the diaphragm is intact. So it looks like a problem with the pressure switch. On this switch, the water presses through the rubber diaphragm, maybe it is damaged, only then the water would come from this switch.
Well, nothing is flying, I noticed now that the pump is very slow to select water, normally it was probably faster. To these 4 bars it pumps from 5 minutes?
I have now noticed that the pump selects water very slowly
Did it happen suddenly? How long does the pipe with the filter last?
Before I decided to become a hero in my own home, it was still late the pump kicked on, kicked off lightning fast, although I hadn't paid attention to it before attention, it seems to me that this drop in performance started from when I put my paws there. And the pipe with the filter is about 4 years old, maybe 4.5 years.
Maybe the pump is sucking air somewhere. Do you not hear "sneezing" when the water is drained?
Sneezing, if you can call it that, you can hear, for example, in the attic bathroom, how the water is drained in the flush. I thought it had to do with the pump being turned off. Could this be it?
This could be it. Probably the pump is sucking "left" air. You must carefully check all connections before the pump. Once the air suction point is found, it can be sealed with a two-component hydraulic putty.
This could be it. Probably the pump is sucking "left" air. You must carefully check all connections before the pump. Once the air suction point is found, it can be sealed with a two-component hydraulic putty.
Ok, thanks for the tips, I'll check and let you know. Greetings.
Before I decided to become a hero in my own home (...)
And I like this statement - you have a beer with me :D
And as for the thread - either the filters are stuffed or left air ... the pump takes too long to pressurize, it should work shorter, especially since you did not have high pressure set.
The guy who did the well for me also says he gets a left air pump somewhere. He's supposed to come over and have a professional eye on it. In general, this installation is my nightmare, last year the valve banged at this time maneuverable, 2.5 m underground, but it was digging ... And now the problem again
This could be it. Probably the pump is sucking "left" air. You must carefully check all connections before the pump. Once the air suction point is found, it can be sealed with a two-component hydraulic putty.
Ok, thanks for the tips, I'll check and let you know. Greetings.
So yes, replacing the pressure switch helped, so one problem with As for slow pumping, most likely without replacing the pump Fortunately, a friend of the discounts on Omnigena, so there will be so bad i hope. Thanks to everyone for the response. Greetings.
I noticed that I had a sand filter (disc) 130 microns on the suction side, i.e. in front of the pump and I have a multi hwa 2000 leader that the filter is very damaging to refilling water in the 100l tank when I took it out, the pump immediately came alive, maybe someone had similar experiences. too good a filter that cleans too much
