Galvanized Tank 300L 0.5MPa: Air Fill Quantity & On/Off Cycle Guidance

I have a galvanized tank 300l 0.5MPa. How much air to fill when it should turn on and off...

Majcher123456 wrote:

I have a 300l 5at galvanized tank

I'm guessing it's the hydrophore tank.

Majcher123456 wrote:

How much air

When it is empty, you do not need to fill it with air, just turn on the pump and fill the tank with the outlet valve closed. You can possibly finish the air earlier by 1 -1.5 atm.

Majcher123456 wrote:

when should it turn on and off...

It depends on your preferences, but the recommended switch-on is the one with which, for example, a washing machine will work properly, so 1.5 atm, and the switch-off can be, for example, 3.5 atm, 4, atm

So add where you intend to use this tank and under what conditions.

I have a hydrophore in the basement, water will be taken to the first floor

Added after 2 [minutes]:

I have a hydrophore and a tank in the basement and the water will be collected on the first and second floor

Added after 35 [minutes]:

I have such a tank

Do you have a water gauge?
At what pressure does the pump start and at what pressure does it stop?

Pressure valve lower 2.2 upper 42

Majcher123456 wrote:

Pressure valve lower 2.2 upper 42

And what is that pressure valve

You can do this:
Turn off the pump
Run water until you hear air escaping.
Close the water outlet
Inflate air to approximately 150-170 kPa
Turn on the pump.

Pressure switch 2.2-4.2

piracik wrote:

You can do this:
Turn off the pump
Run water until you hear air escaping.
Close the water outlet
Inflate air to about 1.5 - 1.7 bar
Turn on the pump.

And you can justify it, because according to my knowledge, you can finish the air at any time (no matter what pressure is currently in the hydrophore), as long as the compressor "could do it". but what kind of compressor is it that won't make a pressure of several atm.?

The justification is quite simple.
To ensure that we use the maximum capacity of the hydrophore
we need to set the pump to turn on when the mirror is already quite low, but not against the background low so that the air escapes from it.
You can pump it up to the stick, but either we will get a small amount of water between starts, or for some time after pumping, before switching on the pump, it will shoot air from the taps, and by the way all the crap torn off the walls of the pipes.

If we give half a bar of reserve until the air starts to escape, we are sure that the pump will be able to turn on and replenish the water before the outflow pipe is uncovered.

I want to know how much air to fill and how to set the pump activation so that the water flows to the 2nd floor, because when the pump is activated, water flows like blood from the nose ...

two floors of approx. 3m each plus ground floor and basement.
Together you have 12m or 1.2bar
If you want 1.5 bar at the top tap, the pump must start at 270 kPa

Majcher123456 wrote:

I want to know how much air to fill and how to set the pump activation so that the water flows to the 2nd floor, because when the pump is activated, water flows like blood from the nose ...

It can be seen from this that the problem is more with the on / off setting than with the lack of air.
Why do you not want to tell the AUTHOR what your current setting is, because everyone who thinks knows that the problem of the 2nd floor is only - counting from the basement ceiling, something more than 5 m, so about 0.5 atm.

The problem is with my parents at home as far as I know it's always been like this. air 2.4, he enjoined 2.4 was on and 5.0 was off measure ok. But recently there was something weak pressure completely drained the water and air pumped 2.4 and set the lower switch to 3.0 to make it faster he enjoined . But even if I unscrew the faucet on the 1st floor where it is first demolition water and is about to turn on the pump (3.2) it's a disaster

Sections too thin, or clogged pipes or valve.
300 kPa in the basement, the storey above should be almost the same, so the cause lies somewhere else.
Or are there filters?

Mr. Stanislaw, and how to fill it with air correctly from the beginning and when to turn it on and off so that it was ok and I will continue to check

piracik wrote:

You can do this:
Turn off the pump
Run water until you hear air escaping.
Close the water outlet
Inflate air to about 150-170kPa
Turn on the pump.

This is a bad hint, because if the air has not been finished for a long time and there is too little of it, you will never hear it, because it will not escape. You can finish with excess, and what will be too much will flow through the tap and the situation will stabilize. Pressure on 2 bar, off 400 kPa will be ok.

So just add a point that if the water stops flowing, pump until it shoots, then close the valve and continue according to the list: /
If we inflate it with excess, it can still shoot air for a week.

piracik wrote:

If we inflate it with excess, it can still shoot air for a week.

too much doesn't mean too much. Your phrase "until he shoots" is also overkill.

If you paid a minimum of attention, you would notice that it "shoots" is 50 kPa lower than turning on the pump. So not an excess, but a safe stock.

I remember that we used to have a 300 liter hydrophore, the rest of the installation was typical everywhere. I remember that to determine the amount of water in the hydrophore there was a small tap somewhere on 1/3 of the tank height and a pressure on/off switch nearby at the same height, hydrophore without "additional pumping" of air. The first filling or replenishment of the hydrophore in the event of a power failure and when too much water "went down" consisted in opening this tap, when the water level was raised by the pump to the level of the tap and it started to flow, it was enough to close it and the pump did the rest. She added enough water to get the pressure right. In the past, it seems to me that all these solutions were simpler, more user-friendly.

Majcher123456 wrote:

how to fill it with air correctly from the beginning and when to turn it on and off so that it was ok

There were questions about the tank here

piracik wrote:

Do you have a water gauge?

They were also about setting the pumps on and off. So far I have only learned:

Majcher123456 wrote:

Pressure switch 2.2-4.2

And this, I think, even in a two-story house, should be enough. And why does it not reach the upper floor (or very poorly)? The amount of air in the hydrophore, although also important, is "only" responsible for the amount of water drawn in one pump cycle.

So you have 3 floors. Pressure is one thing - old pipes, popular flexible hoses, etc., which reduces the cross section - but the amount of water taken from the tank between pump starts is important. It may be worth replacing the tank with a larger one. I have a ground floor and a first floor and the tank has almost 500 liters and with about 1.7 atm on the first floor, the pump turns on every 30 liters to a maximum of 3.5 atm pumping from 22 meters.

Hydrophore 500 l and only 30 liters of water?
You have too little air cushion.

It doesn't seem very effective to me either. From the 300 l tank, at the setting of 1.5 - 3.5 (maybe around 4) atm, with the initial boost of air, you can take about 6 buckets of water (10-12 l) or ~ 60-70 l.

That's true, but I need to have a water reserve if the electricity goes off. Then a small 1kw generator, compressors and you can bid.

telta wrote:

but I need to have a water reserve if the electricity goes out

It's amazing how well you deceive yourself.
With this small pillow you use 2x more electricity than you could.

The motor at start can draw 6x the rated current.
It is better to start the engine once every 1x5 min than 5x1 min.

The next topic is changing the water in the tank.
With such a small difference, it will not be replaced too often, which can lead to the development of all kinds of creatures.