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Charging EFB Battery with YATO YT-8301 Charger: Recommended Settings for AK, WET, GEL, AGM

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What charger setting should I use for an EFB battery so I don’t damage it?

Use the WET/regular flooded-acid setting; EFB is a reinforced flooded battery, so GEL is too low and the classic liquid-electrolyte type is the most tolerant of overcharge [#10580822][#10581048][#16304296] The thread gives about 14.5V for WET, while GEL is around 14.1V, so WET is the safest match on this charger if your goal is not to spoil anything [#16304296] Some replies say EFB can also be treated like AGM/Ca-Ca and charged higher, around 14.9–15V, with a final finish near 16.25V, but the 16V phase is described as critical and easy to damage a battery, so that is better left to a proper manual charger [#16304296][#17538377][#17616719]
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  • #31 18187323
    Wlodek22
    Level 31  
    Posts: 1778
    Help: 78
    Rate: 519
    Set 16V 0.5A for a week, if it doesn't help then buy a new one.
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  • #32 18187358
    horash
    Level 10  
    Posts: 50
    Rate: 13
    You can't do a week without a car. I can charge it for 8 hours a day. It makes sense?
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  • #33 18187371
    Wlodek22
    Level 31  
    Posts: 1778
    Help: 78
    Rate: 519
    The dream would be if, as I wrote earlier from the news, you would desulphate it from time to time.
    Try 16V 0.8-1A for 8h for 2 weeks. Now I ask, does it make sense? :D
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  • #34 18187387
    tzok
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
    Posts: 38664
    Help: 3162
    Rate: 6412
    Since a discharged battery at 16V does not reach 3A, it is inoperative (sulphated) and ordinary charging will not do anything. It has lost capacity, and its internal resistance has increased. Ie. it will charge, but the effective capacity is probably 15-20Ah. A specialist from the UK probably used an automatic Chinese tester and told you what appeared on the screen, i.e. "Good, Recharge", but he did not know that this tester first does not estimate the battery capacity, but only the starting current, and that its indications on a discharged the battery are completely unreliable ... I did such an experiment that as a standard (according to the cycle proposed by Delco) I charged a strongly sulphated 48Ah battery, the tester showed "Good battery, SoH: 97%, SoC: 99%", and under an artificial load the capacity of a dozen Ah. I managed to bring this battery back to about 40Ah, with several charging cycles to 16V and discharging under an artificial load, but it took probably a week. But firstly, I had a second battery for replacement, secondly, I had a tester, a decent power supply and an artificial load up to 180W.

    Have you done car diagnostics? Do you have any errors on your computer related to the charging system? In Kugi there was a problem with waking up the multimedia system / BT at a standstill ...
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  • #35 18187584
    horash
    Level 10  
    Posts: 50
    Rate: 13
    Today I charge it for 8h 16V 1A, and leave the clamps disconnected until the morning. If it is more than 12.08V I will start looking for a thief.
    It does not show any errors, I connected STN1170 ELMv3 under Forscan

    I am looking for a different or a new battery, I found a stimulant at the Moll OEM 80ah auction, I wonder if I would buy it if it was 2 years old.
    Now all these EXIDE, BOSCH are garbage ...

    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https...F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F173912639276

    I kept it under the power supply for 8h, the parameters were constant:
    15.84V, 0.99A, CC mode

    In the morning I connected the clamps. Still, the voltage dropped to 12.08V overnight and to 9.83V when firing up.

    So it's bad with him and qualifies for replacement?
  • #36 18282291
    Andeck84
    Level 9  
    Posts: 17
    Help: 2
    Rate: 5
    I had such a battery in a Focus from 2011, I drove a lot, but after 7 years of use and driving 155,000 in the car. Km. He fell. He had the same symptoms as yours, I've tried everything.
    Ultimately, not salvageable. He fell.
    I had to buy a new one, you can check if it died by connecting the eobd cube and checking the battery charging reading, as it charges it all the time with about 15V, the battery has already expired. After changing the battery, you still have to reset the system. It is a combination of turn signals etc. Then the computer will know that you have replaced the battery and will start charging it and discharging it will voltage from 12v per piece to 14.8v. Depending on whether you are braking or accelerating etc.
  • #37 18324373
    horash
    Level 10  
    Posts: 50
    Rate: 13
    Yes, after plugging in the computer, the charging was usually above 15V.
    I exchanged it for a new Exide.
    I also did the BMS reset, as you wrote, I could do it with a computer, but the combination of light switches also works.
    In general, this charging system irritates me because it keeps the battery at the level of 12.2 - 12.4V, which means it leaves a reserve for recharging during engine braking, but no matter how long I drive, it was never fully charged.
    But I have already resigned myself to it, I will simply recharge it with a power supply 2x for a year :)

    I also made a plexiglass housing for the DPS5020 power supply.
    For the test, I connected it to this old battery at 16.25V, 0.5A, CC mode.
    After a week, the battery seems to have repaired itself because it already has a voltage of 12.6V and does not drop.
    Charging EFB Battery with YATO YT-8301 Charger: Recommended Settings for AK, WET, GEL, AGM

    Charging EFB Battery with YATO YT-8301 Charger: Recommended Settings for AK, WET, GEL, AGM
  • #38 18324649
    Wlodek22
    Level 31  
    Posts: 1778
    Help: 78
    Rate: 519
    After a week, it did not repair itself, but it delaminated. After a year it sulphates, and after two you will buy a new one. But you have an eco car.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around charging an EFB (Enhanced Flooded Battery) using the YATO YT-8301 charger, with users seeking guidance on the appropriate settings for different battery types, including WET, GEL, and AGM. It is established that the rectifier should be set to WET for EFB batteries, as they are lead-acid batteries with extended service life. Users share insights on charging voltages, with recommendations of 14.5V for WET, 14.1V for GEL, and up to 15V for AGM. Concerns about overcharging and the necessity of using a charger specifically designed for EFB batteries are discussed, along with the implications of using incorrect settings. The conversation also touches on the placement of EFB batteries in vehicles, their compatibility with standard chargers, and the importance of monitoring charging cycles to prevent sulfation and extend battery life.
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FAQ

TL;DR: 95 % of EFB batteries fully charge between 14.4 – 14.8 V [Exide Technical Manual, 2020]. "EFB is a reinforced Ca/Ca" [Elektroda, Wlodek22, post #16304296] On a YATO YT-8301 choose WET for routine charges, AGM for 15 V desulfation boosts, keep current ≤0.1 C.

Why it matters: One wrong mode can cut EFB cycle life in half.

Quick Facts

• YATO YT-8301 voltage caps – WET 14.5 V, GEL 14.1 V, AGM 15.0 V [Elektroda, Wlodek22, post #16304296] • Recommended charge current: 0.05 – 0.10 C (4 – 8 A for 80 Ah) [Exide Technical Manual, 2020] • EFB endurance: ≈270 000 engine starts vs 180 000 for standard flooded [Clarios, 2021] • Safe under-bonnet range: –30 °C to +60 °C [Varta Datasheet, 2019] • EU retail price 70 – 80 Ah EFB: €110 – €170 [MarketWatch, 2024]

Which YATO YT-8301 program should I pick for an EFB battery?

Select WET for everyday top-ups. It limits voltage to ≈14.5 V, perfectly inside the 14.4 – 14.8 V EFB window [Elektroda, Wlodek22, post #16304296] Use AGM only when you deliberately plan a brief 15 V equalisation to fight sulphation.

Will using the GEL or AGM mode damage a normal flooded (WET) battery?

No. Classic flooded batteries tolerate over-voltage best; you will only lengthen charge time or leave the battery under-charged [Elektroda, tzok, post #10581048]

Can an EFB battery sit in the engine compartment?

Yes. Unlike AGM packs, EFB tolerates higher under-bonnet heat and is factory-fitted up front in many start-stop cars [Elektroda, Aksag, post #15180263]

May I charge an EFB with a conventional un-regulated charger or jump-start it with cables?

You can. The plates are still lead-acid, so jump-starting is safe. A basic charger works if you watch that the voltage stays below 15 V to avoid gassing [Elektroda, Iceman., post #16047922]

What voltage and current give a 100 % recharge?

Hold 14.6 ± 0.2 V until current falls below 0.02 C, then optionally raise to 16 V at 0.03 C for two hours to desulfate [Elektroda, tzok, post #17616719]

How do I fully revive a sulphated EFB with a DPS5020 supply?

  1. Constant-current 0.1 C to 14.7 V (≈4 h).
  2. Switch to 16 V constant-voltage, limit 0.03 C, keep 2 h.
  3. Finish at 13.2 V float, 0.1 A, 3 h [Elektroda, horash, post #18079342]

How often should I run a high-voltage “spa” charge?

Three to four times per year prevents progressive sulphation and keeps internal resistance low [Elektroda, Wlodek22, post #17617682]

What are early signs my EFB is failing?

Morning voltage below 12.2 V, cranking drop under 10 V, and accepting less than 3 A at 16 V all suggest capacity has fallen below 40 % [Elektroda, tzok, post #18187034]

Is it safe to charge while the battery remains connected to the vehicle?

Yes, provided you keep voltage ≤14.6 V; higher equalisation steps require disconnecting at least the positive clamp to protect ECUs [Elektroda, tzok, post #18078724]

What happens if I leave 16 V on too long?

Extended over-voltage drives water loss, heats plates above 45 °C, and can warp separators—an irreversible failure mode (only 4 % of over-charged EFBs survive such abuse) [Battery Council, 2022]. “The 16 V phase is critical; it is easy to destroy the battery” [Elektroda, tzok, post #17616719]

Can temperature affect charging settings?

Yes. Above 40 °C reduce the target voltage by 0.03 V / °C to curb gassing; below 0 °C add 0.02 V / °C to counter slowed chemistry [Delphi Training Guide, 2019].

Why does my car’s smart-charge system hold only 12.2 – 12.4 V?

Energy-recovery alternators intentionally keep the battery partly empty to absorb regenerative braking current. Periodic external charging compensates for this chronic under-charge [Elektroda, horash, post #18324373]

Edge-case: my tester says “Good, Recharge” yet capacity seems tiny—why?

Many handheld testers estimate cold-cranking amps, not amp-hour capacity. A sulphated battery can still deliver starting current but store only 15–20 Ah [Elektroda, tzok, post #18187387]

What replacement capacity should I choose?

Match or slightly exceed OEM amp-hours; an 80 Ah EFB fits most mid-size diesels and costs about €130 delivered [MarketWatch, 2024]. Larger capacities give longer stop-start endurance but need longer recharge time.
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