Charging EFB Battery with YATO YT-8301 Charger: Recommended Settings for AK, WET, GEL, AGM

Hello, I have an EFB battery and a YATO 6 / 12V 8A YT-8301 charger that I can use to charge my AK. WET, GEL, AGM types. My question, what range should the rectifier set in order not to spoil anything?
I found no answer anywhere, although I dug half the net
greetings

here a bit of theory: http://www.sklepcentra.pl/centra/akumulatory-.../155-ladowanie-akumulatora-poza-pojazdem.html, I think it will help solve the problem. EFB means "Enhanced Flooded Battery" , which is a lead-acid battery with an extended service life.

Thanks, i.e. the rectifier must be set to WET, that's how I understood it.
By the way, if I set the rectifier, for example, on GEL or AGM and connected an ordinary acid battery (WET), would I not get into trouble?

As of these 3, the classic liquid electrolyte acid batteries are the most resistant to overcharging, you would not get into trouble, just extend the charging process and potentially not fully charge the battery.

Can an EFB battery be placed in the engine compartment?

This is how you can place the EFB battery in the engine compartment, unlike AGM batteries which do not like high temperatures and are mounted in the trunk or inside.

I will refresh the topic, can the EFB battery be charged with an ordinary charger and can the vehicle be started "on cables" from another vehicle in the event of a discharge?
But does it REALLY HAVE to be a charger adapted to this type of battery?

The Gel setting should limit the charging voltage to 14.1V, Wet i.e. classic Sb / SB to 14.5V, AGM, including EFB, are Ca / Ca batteries, ew with other admixtures such as Ag and for them the limitation is 14.9 - 15V, although to be fully charged at the end the voltage must reach about 16.25V.

Wlodek22 wrote:

The Gel setting should limit the charging voltage to 14.1V, Wet i.e. classic Sb / SB to 14.5V, AGM, including EFB, are Ca / Ca batteries, ew with other admixtures such as Ag and for them the limitation is 14.9 - 15V, although to be fully charged at the end the voltage must reach about 16.25V.

So batteries such as EFB are AGM twins and must be treated with a program such as AGM (e.g. in CTEK MXS 5.0)?

EFB is a reinforced version of CA / CA and should be treated up to 14.5V with Q10, and then 16.25V with Q20. Cetek, however, is best to put on the allegro, while it is still in the price.

Wlodek22 wrote:

Cetek, however, is best to put on the allegro, while it is still in the price.

From what I learned about automatic chargers, for example, in the case of the Ctek, the problem is with the last cycle, the charger does not recharge the battery to the very end, only up to ~ 80%.

Good advice to sell, but it's a pity that desulphation function is a pity - I just don't know if it really works.
From what I read, some "do not make the electrolyte density" or charge badly (same Ctek).

Would you share information about what better one can buy then?

Thank you if you have time for a reply.
Greetings.

A density of 1.29, charged and desulfurization actually mean the same thing. As the charger ends at 14.7V with a current of 0.5A, it did not charge, desulphate, or obtain density.
I don't know what you expect from a charger and it's hard for me to recommend anything. I will tell you what I use and not only for charging, it's DPS5015 + trafo 30V 300W. Now I see that the DPS5020 version with USB and Bluetooth and mobile support has appeared. It's not cheap because it's about $ 45, but you can make a universal tool not only for charging.

If you drive a car regularly, there is no need to fight for this 20% capacity. It is better to undercharge a little than to overcharge and destroy the battery. So what if you top up to 100% as in continuous operation, the alternator will also only charge up to ~ 80%? When charging with the automatic machine, you fasten in the evening and in the morning you have it charged. You don't have to watch over, count the time, change the settings. You can charge in the car without disconnecting. If you are not driving, you can even hook it up permanently in the garage.

I have a DPS5020 with a 30V / 1000VA luck (from UPS), a great charger but you need to watch it. The charging cycle is about 4 hours in CC mode, with a current of 0.2C to 14.7V, when the current starts to drop, the voltage increases to 16V, you charge another ~ 2h in the CV mode (the initial current will be about 2.3-3A for 60Ah), when the current starts drop, you lower the voltage to about 13.2V and leave it for the next 2-3h with a current of 0.1A. The charging phase at 16V is critical, it is easy to destroy the battery. The voltages of individual phases differ depending on whether we have an ordinary battery, Sn-Ca or Ca-Ca. Alternatively, you charge each lead in CC mode with a current of 0.1C with a voltage limitation of 14.8V, until the current drops below 0.2A.

It is not about obtaining a higher capacity at one time, but about preventing the progressive sulfation as a result of undercharging. This 20% of active non-desulfurized mass will not be desulfurized after some time. And then we will count the charging as 80% from the remaining 80%. And so every year, step by step, until the current density on the clean parts of the plates increases to such a level that it starts to destroy them. Then we have what the nations call making a cell, which is 90% of the time it is physically degraded.
To sum up, we charge to the end to keep the internal resistance as low as possible and thus protect the battery against overloads caused by the starter and alternator.

Wlodek22 wrote:

This 20% of active non-desulfurized mass will not be desulfurized after some time.

Great, but how often do you charge the battery? Once a year? What will this one-time charging to 100% change in his "life"? I usually do not charge for the first two years, it starts to sit down in the third winter, I charge it once and replace it before the next winter. I do not have a garage or the possibility of charging in the parking lot, and I do not intend to do long-distance runs with a battery to save those 200 or 300 PLN once every 3 years, and so I spend less than a month on fuel.

I load it 3-4 times a year and it is obligatory in September, because it is the most sulphurous in the summer.
I call it Spa, it cleans the plates, reduces the RW, increases its resistance, and thus the service life.
You asked "what does it do" so I answered you. And how you treat your battery is your individual matter.

4 ray a year ... ok, that is for 4, let's not even give 8 out of 365 days a year you have it charged to 100%, do you believe that it helps? I do not - more importantly how it is loaded (and unloaded) where it is located and is used for the remaining 357 days of the year, i.e. in the car. Undoubtedly, a commendable effort, but in practice, it will not translate into more than a few additional months of operation, and what you can bear is yours. Of course, it is another matter if someone has an exhibition car - it is moved once a week or less frequently. Then there is no help - you have to charge it once a month.

tzok wrote:

4 ray a year ... ok, that is for 4, let's not even give 8 out of 365 days a year you have it charged to 100%, do you believe that it helps? I do not

I know it helps and you may not believe it. Anyway, is it a matter of faith? Is it that it is not profitable for you, does not want to, there are no conditions, or you do not believe in the sense of loading, is it an argument or a contradiction of the processes described by them?
What exactly is the questionnaire?

Everyone has a different approach to equipment. Personally, I would prefer to use the less convenient route that he describes @ Wlodek22 .
After 4 years I lost my battery from general motors - a short circuit in the cell. Today I do not believe that it was a coincidence, but rather my ignorance and bad battery charging.

I also had a problem with the car camera - I had to recharge the battery several times. Today I use power banks to avoid torture.

I've been reading a bit lately, browsing the YT channel mrAkumulator + comments under the movies.
Recently they made a review of the STEF-POL rectifier. Apparently a good machine.
The company also has chargers, something more automatic as well. Probably, in order to recharge well, you have to manually set it at the right time.

@ Wlodek22
What you give is definitely interesting, thank you. Overall, I am looking for a more ready-made solution, closed in a box, to plug in and tune in.

When it comes to chargers, I don't know one on the Polish market that would do everything automatically, but I wasn't really looking for it either. Of the traditional transformer rectifiers, most of them should be properly selected (with a current of 1/10 of the capacity), but you only need to give them some time.

I am thinking of buying this DPS5020.
Can it be used to charge the battery without disconnecting the clamps? I have a BMS (battery monitoring system) in my Ford, and the battery itself is hidden deep under the shaft ...
I have access to the main body ground and (+) on the battery.

You can, but to charge it properly, I would suggest unfastening at least one clamp. When charging with the "clipped" battery, you should not exceed 14.6V.

So in order to properly charge the 75Ah EFB battery, the power supply is set to:

In this way:
Mode = CC
Current = 7.5A (that is 0.1C)
Voltage = 14.8V
..... until the current drops below 0.2A



In these 3 modes:

1).
Mode = CC
Current = 15A (that is 0.2C)
Voltage = 14.7V
....... and watch until the sleeping current is up to 1A?
(About 4h)

2).
Mode = CV
Current = 3A
Voltage = 16V
........ and watch until the current starts to drop?
(About 2h)

3).
Mode = CV
Current = 0.1A
Voltage = 13.2V
.... final charge
(About 2-3h)

I thought about it for a long time, I am a layman and I am asking for understanding if I mixed up something. Best regards and thank you in advance for your answers

With version 2 you will get a full charge, but I suggest disconnecting the battery from the car for charging in this mode.

Thank you, then I will disconnect the positive pole from the battery and I hope that nothing will break, leaving the negative connected ;)

I will order a DPS5020 and a 24V 15A 360W power supply. Will it drag such loading?

It will pull without a problem, at 16V on the output it should "make" even the nominal 20A.

Thank you very much I will place the order soon, I found everything I need for the complete set (cable, connectors, crocodile clips for the battery, dps5020, power supply), it totaled PLN 480. And a plexiglass box ...

How do I know if something is wrong while the battery is charging?
Does it heat up or gurgling?

Yesterday I finished assembling the power supply. Today I started charging the factory EFB Varta 74ah 700A, this battery suffers from never recharging, or is already a dead man - thanks to the "smart charging" system in the Ford Kuga 2014.
Usually after the night it has a voltage of around 11.9-12V (today 11.98V before charging), no matter how much you drive.
I set the voltage as you wrote, but I have no influence on the CC / CV mode, it seems to me that the DPS5020 selects it and changes it while charging, is that good?

1 phase (14.7V, 15A, CV mode)
- The first 30 mins of charge and the amps quickly dropped to around 5.
- After 1h 1.5A.
- After 2h 1A

2 phase (16V, 3A, CC mode)
- In 10 minutes it dropped to 2.4A, the mode itself changed to CV, amps slightly increased to 2.6.
- After 1h it dropped to 2A.
- After 4 hours, I turned off at 1.5A

3 phase - (13.2V, 0.1A, CV mode)
- I turned on after 1h, the output showed 0.10A, the mode changed to CC.

In the morning it will update the voltage on the battery.

Since at 16V you could not force 3A current, the battery was either already charged or is damaged.

CC (current stabilization) mode means that the power supply will regulate the voltage in order to maintain the preset (3A) current flow. However, it will never exceed the set voltage (16V).

I have no idea if the battery is functional. It's hard to believe a specialist from the UK, but they say that he only needs a recharge, and the truth is that he does not hold the tension for long. The Start-Stop system works for 2 days after a specific charge. The car fires from the arrow, but temporarily the voltage can drop to 9.55V

By morning the voltage dropped to 12.08V,
starting range up to 9.79V.
What conclusions?