Audi A3 1.6 Engine Oil: 15W40 vs 10W40 - 209,000 Mileage, Recommendations for Change

Maybe a question from a different barrel, I'm trying to change the oil.
I have an Audi A3 1.6, I have driven almost 209,000 at the moment. I bought the car almost a year and a half ago, imported from Germany. was serviced, owner flooded with last Mobil 15W40 Oil change.
the manufacturer recommends 10W40. All my friends tell me to change back to 10W40, and yesterday I was found out about the replacement and was told I was not changing the oil from "higher grade to lower grade" (in my case from 15W40 to 10W40)
I wanted to make sure here on this forum what do you think about it? It really does not make sense to change to 10?

Piotr1991 wrote:

Maybe a question from a different barrel, I'm trying to change the oil.
I have an Audi A3 1.6, I have driven almost 209,000 at the moment. I bought the car almost a year and a half ago, imported from Germany. was serviced, owner flooded with last Mobil 15W40 Oil change.
the manufacturer recommends 10W40. All my friends tell me to change back to 10W40, and yesterday I was found out about the replacement and was told I was not changing the oil from "higher grade to lower grade" (in my case from 15W40 to 10W40)
I wanted to make sure here on this forum what do you think about it? It really does not make sense to change to 10?

It depends theoretically from lower to higher, but I switched to synthetic from the mineral (I got it for free, that's why) and for over a year and nothing happens

so you say you can take a chance? on the website a guy told me that most likely I would run out of sealants and the engine is already trained to the 15th

mkpl wrote:

It depends theoretically from the lower to the higher one should not

In which textbook did you read such a theory?
Why do you think this plot is in Hyde Park

Piotr1991 wrote:

so you say you can take a chance? on the website a guy told me that most likely I would run out of sealants and the engine is already trained to the 15th

In my opinion, these leaks are legends. For me, the car was flooded with some g ...... mineral, mileage approx. 350 kkm or 1,350 kkm because he is 22 years old. After I bought it, i.e. 40 km ago, I immediately poured a semi-synthetic in a much better viscosity class and nothing happened. Nothing is leaking at all.

Today I asked again in a different place what oil should I pour and I also received a similar answer ... "too late for a change, hopper 15th" so at this point I think I'm assuming to pour this 15th, even though many people told me about 10 and writes in the manufacturer's book ... the previous owner apparently made this mistake and poured the 15th and it's too late to change ......

Hop on the 10th and don't listen to stupid advice. What will you do when the 15th starts to fly from simering?

It can be expected that the car may have traveled 400,000 km or more, and such oil was poured on purpose.

15W40 is mineral, 10W40 is synthetic. Mineral is cheaper and more reliable for such cars. Pour synthetic, you will pay more, the engine will unseal and you will have a problem.

With such runs, full synthetics is not good, if you insist, you can switch to semi-synthetic non-invasively. Probably the car has a hundred kilometers in memory, best regards

igord wrote:

15W40 is mineral, 10W40 is synthetic.

Nonsense. This is not a rule.

berlingo wrote:

With such runs, the full synthetics does not flow

Another bullshit.

The 10W40 is half synthetic. You can go lower, however, it would be appropriate to do a decent rinse because you do not know how much he rode on this mineral. It should not unseal, and even if it is repaired normally and not changing the oil for the worse.

tomeczek333 wrote:

The 10W40 is half synthetic. You can go lower, however, it would be appropriate to do a decent rinse because you do not know how much he rode on this mineral. It should not unseal, and even if it is repaired normally and not changing the oil for the worse.

tomeczek333 tell me in what range is such a repair?

Excuse me. 15W40 is mineral as I wrote, and 10W40 is a semi-synthetic. The cheapest mineral funnel you will find.

I have no idea, it depends where it leaks and what will need to be replaced. But have you really heard that someone would unseal the engine after changing from mineral oil to synthetic or semi-synthetic? Apart from the typical saying that a friend of a friend, etc. I haven't heard anything like that. Of course, there is a risk, because there are people who start pouring mineral oil because their car takes oil.
I would be more worried that after switching from mineral to synthetic, all the muck that is in the engine will peel off and this will hurt. That is why rinses are used. If you briefly rode mineral, you don't have to worry about it.
It is a pity that you do not know why it was flooded with mineral oil or because of oil consumption or savings, and how long it has been riding on it. That would be very helpful.
And I do not understand the advice of my colleague @igord. This is not some old car and everyone wants their car to run as long as possible. Oil is of great importance, so I do not understand why it should be changed to the cheapest mineral if the semi-synthetic has better properties. Such a thing makes sense in a car for PLN 1000-2000.

audi a3 1997
I found an oil change card .... 2010, i.e. after the calculation, i.e. almost 30,000 is traveled on 15W40, at this point almost 209,000 are traveled, and I assumed gas at 205,000, so now it's hard for me to say how much oil I eat ... .. on the dipstick like 1000KM, about 2-3mm disappeared at this point

Read or ask on the forum dedicated to Audi a3, here you have a link to the topic - http://www.a3-club.net/forum/showthread.php?5...e-o-pomoc-w-wybor-oleju-silnikowego&p=949009# post949009
Do not listen to the mechanics who order the mineral to be poured - because it was, because it will leak, no worries - it's not 125p. I would pour a full, real 5W-40 synthetic, before that I would do a mouthwash. It is important whether the engine has leaks, how much oil it consumes, i.e. how much do you add, for example, per 1000 km.

1969 Pawel, on average, I add about 3 hundred oil for 2-3 thousand

What is this motor. Petrol, which year. These numbers; 5W30,5W40, are the starting temperatures. As a mechanic only uses numbers; 5W30,5W40, they don't even let him tighten the wheel.

darpo131313 says 1.6 (gasoline) 1997

If the consumption is more than 100ml per 1000km, I suggest a semi-synthetic, eg Motul Synergie 6100, if less, you can pour a full synthetic, eg X-cess Motul 5w-40. Before the replacement, I would rinse the engine with an engine clean preparation from a good company, such as Liqui Molly or Millers.

1969 Pawel I have MOBIL oil recommended so I will stick to this brand
I know you can change but I don't want to ....

Do you also have a tire brand recommended? Although Motul's right to audi is a waste

CGB_Spender is not like you say .....
Which vehicle brand manufacturer can recommend a specific tire model? no sense!

Piotr1991 - CGB_Spender wrote it in the form of irony - it is, for example, a masked mockery in an apparently approving statement, so do not take it seriously, a joke like that - Johnny snake, you will be a little embarrassed when writing your post. Generally, the author of the post asks what oil should be poured on and after a dozen or so statements, he states that he must use the oil that is assigned to his car. Ie. oil recommended by the manufacturer because he has a contract with a given company and profits from it. Note that car manufacturers recommend a given company's oil for their cars and people blindly believe it and repeat this stupidity. In this post, the respondents try to help the questioner and advise something that seems to be a better solution, but their efforts are in vain because you have to do as it was and do not change anything. It is difficult to change stereotypes, such as changing from mineral to synthetic, not changing the oil in the gearbox, etc. There are still a lot of "experts" who are still in the 125p era and are repeating these scandals and must be avoided.

1969 Paul understands you
and what oil would you recommend?

Click on the link I sent you earlier. In this topic, users ask what oil to pour into their A3. Interesting forum and you can learn a lot. As an A3 user, you should have a look there, there you will get answers to your questions. I am currently testing a little known oil called Xado.

Piotr1991 wrote:

CGB_Spender is not like you say .....

Well, because there is nothing like your dilemma ... A week has passed since you asked your question, in the meantime hectoliters of oil in various engines were changed in workshops all over the country, but only you ask here which oil to pour ... On the Internet you can read about it hours, including websites of oil producers etc.
Even though you got a reasonable answer, you still don't draw any conclusions.

So, keep on trying ...

1969pawel wrote:

I am currently testing a little known oil called Xado.

How ? You flooded and if nothing breaks down, the oil will turn out to be amazing?

Gentlemen, my golf (2.3) is pouring from the new Motula V300 15W50: http://www.motul.auto.pl/index.php?p=177, (strange oil class but I live in a country where the temperature does not drop below zero) The producer writes that it is 100% synthetic (esters). Is it really so?

I got acquainted with the oleje.pdf file (sterndoctor posts from the motor-talk.de forum were translated), this convinced me, and changed the passat b3 1.6 td mileage 373000 oil from mineral mobil 15W40 to synthetics mobil one 0w40 turbo diesel. Plus, before replacing the Liqui Moly Engine Flush. Everything from the auction site. By the way, I poured Castrol Syntrans Transmax (formerly TAF-X) into the box, which is also mentioned in the oleje.pdf file. All this was related to the problems I had with turning this engine off at -20 and shifting into some gear. I was guided here only by compliance with the VW 505.00 standard. It should be noted that all previously used oils (Mobil S, Mobil 1000) also met this standard. On the other hand, the oleje.pdf file does not indicate that you cannot ride on mineral - it all depends on its quality.