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How to set up smart home: Sterbox + LAN controller + PC + custom GUI?

kwasza 11721 13
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How can I wire and control a DIY smart-home system so wall switches, lights, sockets, sensors, and a PC-based web GUI work together with a Sterbox or LAN controller?

Use wall pushbuttons as controller inputs and let the controller output drive the relay, with the relays placed in the junction boxes or at the light fittings; for sockets, it is better to switch groups from the distribution board because of start-up currents and relay wear [#11253033][#11851445] On the LAN Controller, do not drive relays directly from the digital outputs: use open-collector outputs or an extra driver/protection stage, because the processor output current is only about 10 mA [#11253033] If you want the PC/web part, one suggestion was to link the controllers through a Raspberry Pi and your own software [#11249485] Several replies warned that Sterbox is fine for simple flip-flop-style control but becomes awkward for more advanced automation, and suggested Satel Integra or KNX as more scalable alternatives [#11259013][#11518182]
AI summary based on the discussion. May contain errors.
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  • #1 11247635
    kwasza
    Level 10  
    Posts: 9
    A warm welcome

    I’d like to share with my fellow forum members my vision for the installation of an integrated building system (IB) and home automation in my flat. I also have a few questions and concerns.
    When I bought the flat, I decided to incorporate certain solutions that would make it more convenient to live in, improve security and help save energy.

    What has already been done:

    The flat is 45m² plus a 150m garden. When I started thinking about smart home solutions after taking possession of the flat (in a developer’s shell condition), I ran 16mm conduits to every socket and light switch, which run down to the floor level (in my ‘vision’, all control cables will be concealed in the skirting boards, and where there are doors in the floor, I chiselled out and cemented in two 24mm conduits each). Everything runs down to the point where the distribution board is located.

    What I want to achieve:

    1* Light control (manually via a switch and remotely via a web interface)
    2* Ability to switch power sockets on/off (e.g. if I leave the iron switched on and go to work, saving electricity – ‘red lights on the TV’)
    3* IR control (TV, DVD, music, and other devices that can be controlled via IR, e.g. RGB LEDs with an IR remote control)
    4* electric thermostatic radiator valves
    5* Presence detection in rooms (motion sensors) for lighting control and, when no one is present, as part of the alarm system.
    6* Indoor and outdoor temperature sensors, and a soil temperature sensor.
    7* Lawn watering control (depending on soil temperature and moisture levels)
    8* Cameras (for the garden and one inside the living room + kitchen area)
    9* Control of curtains/net curtains (not external roller blinds) – usually just net curtains on a curtain rail (I’m thinking a stepper motor or a standard motor, plus a timer or limit switches)
    10* Forwarding the intercom to a mobile phone whilst away
    11* solenoid valves for hot and cold water in the bath (otherwise usually manual)
    12* voice control


    I’ve listed everything in order from what’s a must-have to what would be a nice bit of extra. It all depends on the budget

    As I’m an IT specialist, I have a ‘basic+’ understanding of electronics and an ‘average-’ understanding of electrical work, so I’ve decided that I can implement most of these things myself for a fraction of the cost. Alternatively, with the help of a friendly electrician.

    I’ve read through this forum a bit, visited the manufacturers’ websites, looked at a few quotes, and I reckon you can put together smart home solutions yourself for a fifth of the price charged by smart home companies.

    To keep costs down, here’s my plan:
    A PC that will handle the ‘intelligent’ part (i.e. schedules, scenes, scenarios) and also act as a web server running my own GUI. Via the web, I can control the system from a tablet – whether Apple or Android – and practically any mobile phone with a web browser, or from another computer. To control relays, inputs, outputs and sensors, I’m considering something along these lines Link or / and STERBOX.
    Having read reviews about STERBOX, I know it has limitations (e.g. a small number of timers, a small number of logic gates, etc.), but I’ll sort out these shortcomings using a computer (I have an unlimited number of timers and the ability to configure the logic exactly as I want)

    If you’ve read this far, thank you for your patience; I now have a few questions, which are probably a bit ‘layman’s’

    1* From what I’ve read, to control the lighting from the wall and via, for example, the web, I’ll need ‘staircase’ or ‘doorbell’ switches; for this, in the STERBOX, I’ll have to use a relay output or a digital output and a relay 230V in the junction box? If I’m not mistaken, the second option is better because I’ll be running twisted-pair cable through those conduits, and running 230V through twisted-pair cable isn’t a good idea. The only question is, how will the control box know that I’ve switched the light off manually?
    2* As for the power, I use a digital output in the control box to control a relay in the socket.
    3* For IR control, I’d base it on a device capable of learning IR signals – for example, from a TV remote – and sending them directly from the PC. In other words, a universal remote control for the PC. Has anyone heard of such a solution? Is there anything like this available on the market? This is an important issue for me, as it would also allow me to control RGB LEDs very cheaply and without cables Link
    4* As this is a flat and I don’t have a central heating boiler. And as I want to keep costs down, I’ve decided it would be more convenient to set up an autonomous control system based on ready-made Danfoss or Schlosser thermostatic heads (they offer very decent programming options and have predefined modes to save energy) I’m worried that just a solenoid valve plus wires won’t be as efficient, as I might struggle to write a proper script for when to heat and when not to, etc. Maybe I’m wrong, or perhaps there’s something I haven’t found online – what would you suggest? Alternatively, Danfoss thermostatic heads that operate independently but have three buttons (+ and -); I could simply connect the wires by soldering them into the ‘buttons’. The cost of the thermostat at the moment is around 80 zloty

    5* As far as I understand, these sensors usually output a 1 when someone is moving and a 0 when they aren’t (so, in my understanding, they close the circuit when someone is moving and open it when it’s quiet). I’d connect this to the Sterbox’s OC digital input

    6* The Sterbox doesn’t support 1-Wire, but I’d like to use these temperature sensors, so I’ll need to use a device such as To

    Points 7–12 – I think I’ll worry about those once I get to step 6

    So far, the cost is low: PC (around 200 zł), Sterbox (800 zł), radiator thermostatic heads (3 x 80 zł); I’ve got the twisted-pair cable for free because, as I mentioned, I work in IT. And we’ve got lighting and power control, plus smart radiators, for less than 1,500 zł

    Later today, I’ll post some photos of the installation and a diagram showing the layout of the points and how many there are, so I know how many inputs and outputs I’ll need on the control box.

    Thanks in advance for any suggestions and comments on my idea
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  • #2 11247905
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #3 11248162
    kwasza
    Level 10  
    Posts: 9
    Quote:
    Why not start by working out how much electricity a PC costing 200 zł will use in a year?
    If you just want to treat yourself to a bit of a gimmick at home, that’s fine. But if you think you’ll save anything thanks to any sort of automation, you’re very much mistaken.

    All that’s left for me to do is wish you good luck.

    PS.
    Just in case, multiply that by 1500zł x3.


    Hello

    The issue of energy savings is quite a debatable one.
    A PC for 200 zł is a bit of a stretch :) I’m an IT specialist, so we can agree that this is a low-power machine (here, the cost is mainly the extras on top of the second-hand parts)
    I do believe, however, that I’ll still make savings. At the moment, in the flat where I live, one computer runs non-stop because I sometimes need to access it remotely, and I can’t just pop a desktop into my laptop bag (From now on, a more energy-efficient computer will run as the automation server, and I’ll boot up the desktop remotely whenever I want. Not to mention that my wife and I are rather forgetful (sometimes I leave the TV on in the morning, or I’ve been known to leave the lights on in the bathroom and hall for over 12 hours, etc.)
    Let’s agree, though, that I’m more interested in the convenience aspect :) even if my electricity bill ends up being higher :)

    I’d be grateful for any technical help. I’ll mainly start with the lights and power sockets. As I mentioned

    7 lights (5 single and 1 double)
    12 sockets with lights
    Is it better to use relays in a junction box for control only, or a relay in the PLC?

    Many thanks in advance
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  • #4 11249485
    stkop
    Level 15  
    Posts: 121
    Help: 14
    Rate: 7
    If you’re a programmer, you might be able to do some cool things with the LAN Controller I mentioned. I recently wrote a short piece about the potential of this device [the manufacturer liked the article, as they posted a link to it on their website]. You could try connecting these controllers using something like a Raspberry Pi for $35 (power consumption 3.5W) and you’d have some very interesting possibilities.

    Added after 3 [minutes]:

    kwasza wrote:
    Is it better to have relays in a junction box and just the control, or a relay in the PLC?
    I don’t understand... So what does the topology of your electrical installation look like now? You wrote earlier that everything feeds into the distribution board, and now you’re asking about relays in a junction box?... As far as I can see, that’s mutually exclusive.
  • #5 11249761
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #6 11249911
    stkop
    Level 15  
    Posts: 121
    Help: 14
    Rate: 7
    Quote:
    The correct notation is 7we/5wy, although even that isn’t entirely correct


    7 inputs and 6 outputs (not 5). The new version apparently has an additional 1-wire input for connecting four Dallas temperature sensors... so the notation for the number of I/Os is getting even more complicated, and unfortunately the only compensation for these and other ‘inconveniences’ is the price... 120 zł gross.

    Added 21 [minutes] later:

    Quote:
    What do you get? Peace of mind and no complicated set-ups. The option for easy upgrading.
    Getting both variants up and running would probably be quite an adventure for a novice, but in fact, based on the KNX protocol, a successful commissioning seems more certain.… and the biggest advantage is access to a wide range of accessories, such as IR devices. On the other hand, there’s nothing to stop you from investing in a LAN Controller unit and testing first-hand what this marvel is capable of, as well as verifying whether it can be sensibly integrated into the system’s operational concept using your own software via LAN. As far as stability and reliability are concerned, both the Intelelektronik and LAN Controller devices are equally big unknowns… actually, the LAN Controller has the edge as it has its own forum with quite a large number of users.
  • #7 11250104
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
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  • #8 11251298
    kwasza
    Level 10  
    Posts: 9
    Quote:

    I don’t understand… what does the topology of your electrical installation look like now? You wrote earlier that everything feeds into the distribution board, and now you’re asking if the relays are in the junction box?... As far as I’m concerned, that’s mutually exclusive.


    I didn’t express myself clearly; the electrical infrastructure is laid out as in the other flats, i.e. as the developer installs it (one circuit for the bathroom, one for the kitchen, a separate 380V supply to the oven, separate circuits for lighting, etc.)

    That’s why I spent a week chiselling into the walls to run additional wires to every socket or light switch that carries power; these will form a star topology and converge at a single point where the computer with the controller, etc., will be located. And it is precisely these wires that will control whether or not there is power at a given socket :) .

    That’s why, in the junction box beneath the socket, I’m installing a 230V 10A relay controlled by a 5V signal, and I’m running a twisted-pair cable to it, which I connect to the digital output of the LAN controller or STERBOX. By sending a logical one to the digital output, I have 5V on the cable, so I switch on the relay and current flows through the socket; sending a logical zero reverses the situation :)
    However, controlling the light switches is a bit trickier, as you need a two-way switch to be able to control them from the wall and via the web interface

    P.S. Here are some photos of what I’ve done :)
    Instructions for posting photos and images on the forum https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic2053101.html
    3.1.13. It is forbidden to post messages that breach the rules of Polish spelling, or that are sloppy or incomprehensible.
    Please correct your spelling!
    [retrofood]
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  • #9 11253033
    stkop
    Level 15  
    Posts: 121
    Help: 14
    Rate: 7
    kwasza wrote:
    That is why I place a 230V 10A relay, controlled by 5V, in the junction box beneath the socket, and run a twisted-pair cable to it, which I connect to the digital LAN output of the controller or STERBOX; by sending a logical one to the digital output, I have 5V on the cable, so I switch on the relay and there is current in the socket; sending a logic zero results in the opposite situation :)
    Controlling light switches, however, is a bit trickier, as you need a two-way switch to be able to control them from the wall and via the web interface


    The matter has become a bit clearer. You’ll need to use relays in junction boxes [though it’s a shame you didn’t use recessed junction boxes… installing this will cost you a fair bit of patience and nerves). When it comes to controlling sockets, the matter is clear, but only in terms of the control method… because on closer reflection, I can only see controversies… such as power consumption (the relay being activated for many hours) and failure rates (quite a number of devices connected to the sockets draw significantly more than 10–16A at start-up). In my opinion, it makes much more sense to control groups of sockets directly from the distribution board.
    As for the lighting, it’s generally controlled via an output from the controller, just like the socket. However, you’ll also need to connect the [bell-type] light switch to the controller’s input. This way, you’ll achieve consistency between input and output from the point of view of automation and remote control.
    In the case of the Lan K, you’ll face the first ‘Alpine challenge’ – namely, amplifying and protecting the output – because you cannot connect relays directly to its digital outputs (the processor’s output [max. 10mA] must not be connected via long cables… as the current flowing through them could damage the processor.) [But I believe they have an adapter for this in the form of a PCB]. With the Sterbox, it’s easier, but you end up duplicating the relays, which is again a power-hungry issue. In this setup, open-collector [OC] outputs are your best bet.
  • #10 11259013
    Umberto
    Level 14  
    Posts: 108
    Rate: 1
    I’ve had a quick look at the topic; I’m currently struggling with Sterbox units and… I’m saying a firm NO to them. I won’t touch them again – style over substance, plus a complete mess.
    Firstly, the price: 600 zł for 4 I/Os is a disaster; the programming offers zero transparency; having to remember names is pointless. Expansion modules, with inputs and outputs fixed together. No, I don’t like it at all.But there’s one simple solution: our very own SATEL, INTEGRA.From 24 to 128 fully programmable inputs/outputs, functional logic, a whole host of expansion modules. We can set up both the alarm and automation at the same time. And it’s every bit as good as the Sterbox.
  • #11 11265441
    Master-Slave
    Level 10  
    Posts: 13
    Rate: 2
    Admittedly, Sterbox might seem a bit complicated at first, but once you get to grips with it, you can do a lot with it. It’s also a Polish-made device. You see, with 4 I/O channels, the price might indeed seem a bit high, but you also get LAN, RS485/232, analogue inputs and, above all, the option of inexpensive expansion with additional modules.
    You should view this basic module as a foundation, complete with software. That’s my opinion, of course. Besides, the ability to connect via LAN is a really great feature in my view. I’ve installed quite a few of these already, and I wouldn’t be so critical.
    You’re not quite right when you say that the expansion modules are fixed to specific inputs and outputs.
    It’s actually a bit different: if you configure an input in the software for an expansion module, then when you control it, an additional relay will indeed switch on (if you have such a module), but the logical function is that of an input, which you can use for any kind of control. It’s interchangeable, not fixed.
    When programming, you can also enter your own names to indicate what each one is for.

    But I have a question: does this Satel unit have a connection for control via LAN? My last experience with Satel was quite a while ago, when the only way to do anything was via RS.
    I’m asking this out of pure curiosity, as it might be worth looking into.
    I’m mainly interested in the ability to control it via LAN and send emails about the status of inputs or outputs, just as Sterbox does.
  • Recommends SATEL INTEGRA over Sterbox for automation

    #12 11518182
    Polikon
    Level 14  
    Posts: 179
    Help: 1
    Rate: 28
    Umberto wrote:
    I’ve had a quick look at the topic; I’m currently battling with Sterbox products and… I’m saying a firm NO to them.I won’t be touching them again – style over substance, plus a complete mess.
    Firstly, the price: 600 zł for 4 I/O is a disaster; the programming offers zero transparency; having to remember names is pointless. Expansion modules, with inputs and outputs hard-wired together. No, I don’t like it at all.But there’s one simple solution: our very own SATEL, INTEGRA. From 24 to 128 fully programmable inputs/outputs, functional logic, and a whole host of expansion modules.We’re setting up the alarm and automation at the same time. And it’s every bit as good as Sterbox.

    As for the Sterbox, I agree with you 200 per cent. I’ve got this home-grown invention of ours and I’m swearing up a storm. If someone just wants to set up a simple flip-flop control system, it’ll do in a pinch. But for anything more advanced, I wouldn’t recommend it even to my worst enemy.
  • #13 11535113
    aut0matyk

    Level 17  
    Posts: 199
    Help: 15
    Rate: 15
    Umberto wrote:

    As for Sterbox, I agree with you 200 per cent. I’ve got this home-grown invention of ours and I’d swear by it. If someone just wants to do Flip-Fop control, it’ll do the job in a pinch. But for anything more advanced, I wouldn’t recommend it even to my worst enemy.


    So, as an alternative to the Sterbox, perhaps I’ll suggest this controller:
    http://www.e-tronix.eu/pl_sterownik.php
    There are no issues whatsoever with the I/O software.
    A new version of the controller featuring an ATMEGA1284P processor will be available soon.
    Company Account:
    E-TRONIX
    ul. Ściegiennego 89/42, Kraków, 30-809 | Company Website: www.e-tronix.eu
  • #14 11851445
    Szyszkownik Kilkujadek
    Level 37  
    Posts: 5017
    Help: 211
    Rate: 1014
    As for me, Sterbox controls the lighting and makes life a lot easier.
    When I leave the house, I’ve got a ‘turn everything off’ button. In the bedroom too – when I go to bed, it’s ‘turn everything off’. And there are many, many other conveniences that I didn’t need to anticipate during the renovation.
    When building a system like this, it’s important to remember that its primary purpose is to make life easier and to be as simple to use as possible. So that guests don’t have to read a 100-page manual just to turn on the light in the bathroom. ;-)
    The wiring consists of ~230V + a YTDY cable running to each light fitting. In my case, the relays are located right next to each light fitting. A 10-core YTDY cable means that, if I’m feeling particularly adventurous, I can even hang a chandelier with up to 8 bulbs and control each one separately. What’s more, I can power the LEDs directly from the Sterbox power supply via the YTDY cable. I have it all powered by a buffer power supply, so in the event of a mains failure, I can switch on the LEDs as emergency lighting – no need to light candles. :-]
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