[WBR3][OpenBeken] My first time using OpenBeken. How do I flash the firmware onto a Tuya kettle and

I’ve got a kettle on the workbench – apparently a ‘smart’ one.




It’s waiting for the relay to be replaced, as it’s stuck. It used to work with the Tuya app, based on the WBR3 module.



I’ve never used OpenBeken before, but I can see that this module is supported.
Is there a step-by-step guide somewhere (I’d prefer a text-based one) on how to go about this? I’ve seen that you have lots of videos on flashing, but some – for example, those from two years ago – relate to various other modules, and quite a few utility programmes have been developed as well... I’m missing something like a ‘Getting Started’ guide…

Initially, I was simply thinking of re-soldering this module onto an ESP8266. Most of these gadgets have been working for me for years on espHome/Tasmota, and they date back to the (pre-pandemic) days when the ESP was the standard chip used in such gadgets.

As far as I can tell at the moment, I should:
1. Connect to the UART between the module and the TuyaMCU, click through all the options in the Tuya app, and log the communications to read all the DpIDs.
2. Desolder the module.
3. Connect to the second UART? Flash it with OpenBekenen.
4. Solder the module back in and reassemble the device?

Will I be able to carry out the rest of the configuration via the UI? Will subsequent flashing be possible via OTA, without having to desolder it?

I think there have been a few of these kettles mentioned here – perhaps one of the configurations will work. Am I right in assuming that the MCU is responsible for the kettle’s logic, so that if something goes wrong with the flashing, the kettle will only lose its ability to communicate via Wi-Fi?

How stable and mature is this OpenBeken project at the moment? Is it suitable for normal, everyday use with long uptime? 🤔

Perhaps someone who’s already done this sort of flashing could share some tips. By the way – I haven’t used Windows privately for many years now; are those nice, user-friendly graphical programmes for OpenBeken only available on Windows? Can all this be done on Linux or a Mac? The CLI isn’t a problem, but I don’t think there’s a version of the Tuya decoder available for that, is there?

Essentially, as you wrote, just remember to make a copy of the 2 MB batch.

By 2026, most platforms will already support our flasher. The flasher should run under Mono – perhaps the TuyaMCU Analyser as well?
https://github.com/openshwprojects/BK7231GUIFlashTool
Give it a go and let us know – it could be an interesting experiment.

Realtek has a working OTA update.

In TuyaMCU, the logic is controlled by the MCU; at worst, you’ll probably only lose Wi-Fi, but that’s not a problem as you can make a copy of the 2 MB firmware and restore it if things go wrong.

What do you mean by ‘Getting started’? Pairing? Via the AP, IP 192.168.4.1, where you configure the Wi-Fi. Or are you referring to the documentation? If you could clarify that, we could put together some material.
https://github.com/openshwprojects/OpenBK7231T_App/blob/main/docs/README.md
https://www.youtube.com/@elektrodacom

You’ll need to desolder the WBR3; it has programming pads on the back.
b739e3a99c3 WBR2, WBR3, WBRU, W701-VA2-CG pinout, datasheet, flashing for Home Assistant[/url]

Related topics:
Updating the SMART06B firmware – how to connect a Wi-Fi electric kettle to Home Assistant?
Wi-Fi module in an electric kettle – what are the benefits? Inside the Harmony 50 and its programming

Thanks for your reply.

p.kaczmarek2 wrote:

If you could clarify this a bit more, we could put together some material.

What I had in mind was more of a guide – an introduction, including, amongst other things, what I described in my questions, with links to the tools you’ve provided. I’ve been reading the threads that have come up from time to time, and it still took me a while to piece everything together.

p.kaczmarek2 wrote:

Flasher should run under Mono; perhaps the TuyaMCU Analyser as well?

I managed to get it running in Wine, but the serial port isn’t working. I’ll try using

mkbuild

/

mkbundle

with Mono later; it should work.

I saw on GitHub that there’s also a web app in Dart for flashing? Is that still in development? How is this supposed to work? – because, for example, using webSerial with a module such as an ESP32 connected to another flashed module, with wireless communication and an isolated power supply, would be a brilliant approach...

For now, I’ve already desoldered the module; the kettle’s working without Wi-Fi after replacing the relay, so I’ll be experimenting with these programmes now. I think I’ll also print out that adapter you made for programming the WBR3. What are the two buttons there for – reset and entering programming mode?

attempt at making a Mono-compatible build https://github.com/divadiow/BK7231GUIFlashTool/actions/runs/30072243221

would be interested to get your feedback on it if you're interested

Ahh, I forgot about Dart tool. Good point, we need to develop it futher.
https://github.com/openshwprojects/EasyGUIFlashTool

@divadiow any chances for some Flutter tool progress? How it's going for you, or maybe can I help you somehow to get started?

I have successfully read, erased and flashed at 921600 and 2m bauds with this in Edge/Windows: https://github.com/openshwprojects/EasyGUIFlashTool/pull/3

Great, I'll merge once I get back home. Look at the related platforms if you can, as far as I remember they may be somewhat similar. @aadeer can you check if it works for you?

p.kaczmarek2 wrote:

@aadeer, could you check if it works for you?

I managed to connect (browser version – Dart), but I haven’t flashed the chip yet. Similarly, this Windows flasher – it compiled with Mono, it runs, it detects the serial ports, but I’ll carry on working on it after the weekend. Before then, I’ll have a go at transferring the batch via SPI.

As far as I recall, you don’t need to flash via SPI; the UART 1:1 will handle it just fine. The read operation isn’t destructive, so you won’t cause any damage. Let me know whether either (or perhaps both?) of the flashers is working once you’ve had a chance to check. Cheers in advance.