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Annoying noises (dripping, knocking, squeaking) in the heating radiators in the

malizna777 46908 21
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Why do radiators in a top-floor apartment make humming, squeaking, dripping, or whistling noises even after venting?

The noises are most likely caused by air in the heating circuit or by incorrect flow/pressure in the installation, but if repeated venting does nothing, the system itself needs balancing rather than just bleeding the radiators [#11473428][#11473696] Vent the radiators with the boiler/pump switched off, close the supply valve, bleed several times, then open the supply again and bleed once more after restart [#11718319] If the sound still remains, the thread points to pipe expansion or rubbing at the CO riser transitions between ceilings, or even a hard particle in those places making a dripping-like noise [#11477036] One user also found that reducing pressure lowered the noise, but too much reduction stopped heating, so the underlying problem may be excessive pump/flow settings in the boiler room [#11497925] The cooperative later planned to vent the boiler room and install air separators, which fits the idea that the source is in the central system, not only in the apartment [#11734492]
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  • #1 11472626
    malizna777
    Level 9  
    Posts: 5
    Rate: 12
    Hello,
    I live on the top (second) floor of a cooperative block, in a corner apartment. There are only three apartments vertically. Since we bought an apartment (in 2010), I have been fighting with "experts" from the cooperative with, in my opinion, a defective system straight from the 1970s or 1980s.
    Every time the heating season starts, you can hear a hum in the radiators, which is heard even when the thermostat (Danfoss) is set to 1 and increases as the heating is turned on. When I intervene, the gentlemen reduce the pressure and the noise fades for a while (it never completely disappears, but it's still possible to live). It can be adjusted - so ok. This year, after adjusting the pressure, there was a slight, little-audible squeaking during the day, which is quite bothersome at night. Of course, professionals do not hear the squeak. Recently, other sounds have joined the squeak - something like dripping in radiators (but interestingly only in two radiators, in two rooms on one side of the apartment). And looking for a solution to the problem (because the experts first made me wait a week for the pressure to normalize in the blocks, and then spread their hands, that they do not know how to fix it, that there are such sounds in many apartments and people live somehow, etc.) I found this forum . I tried to play with the settings on the thermostat (from 1 to 7 to N) on my own, but unfortunately it does not help. The dripping (in the middle) stops completely once, then gently intensifies, then harder, louder, and then silence for a while. I am asking for advice on what the causes of this noise may be and what to suggest to the "experts". That year it was dripping slightly, but one of the gentlemen came, put something up, checked the "knot" downstairs and it stopped. This year, my specialists were overwhelmed by the powerlessness.
    I apologize for such a long message and thank you in advance for the hints.
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  • #2 11473428
    BILGO
    Level 38  
    Posts: 4452
    Help: 393
    Rate: 723
    malizna777 wrote:
    I am asking for advice on what the causes of this noise may be and what to suggest to the "experts".

    In my opinion, there are air in the radiators (you need to vent) .... The reason may be a small amount of water in the circuit ...
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  • #3 11473696
    dareksin
    Level 16  
    Posts: 217
    Help: 8
    Rate: 72
    malizna777 wrote:
    Hello,
    I live on the top (second) floor of a cooperative block, in a corner apartment. There are only three apartments vertically. Since we bought an apartment (in 2010), I have been fighting with "experts" from the cooperative with, in my opinion, a faulty system, straight from the 1970s or 1980s.


    Do you have air vents? on risers or on radiators?

    Have you vented?
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  • #4 11474080
    malizna777
    Level 9  
    Posts: 5
    Rate: 12
    Thanks for the answers.
    I have air vents installed on each radiator. Professionals always start by venting the riser, but they do it outside my apartment, so I suspect there is a "system" for venting the system downstairs in the basement. We have the fact that at least one radiator has to be deaerated in each heating season, which we always do when something starts to bubble or the radiator does not heat up. This year we have repeated this procedure several times and it did not help.
  • #5 11474135
    dareksin
    Level 16  
    Posts: 217
    Help: 8
    Rate: 72
    malizna777 wrote:
    This year we have repeated this procedure several times and it did not help.


    Was it better right after venting?

    Is there absolutely no improvement?
  • #6 11476940
    malizna777
    Level 9  
    Posts: 5
    Rate: 12
    The venting did nothing to help the squeak coming out of the radiators. There was no change / improvement after these treatments. With this squeaking, I have an impression differently - depending on whether the neighbor turns on the heater (you can hear the valve turning), what is the outside temperature. Once there is a sound as if the radiators were broadcasting to me in the walrus alphabet, and once only a gentle, uninterrupted whistle / whistle. Generally it is not disturbing during the day, worse at night when it is quiet around.
    And the dripping did not appear immediately with the start of the heating season, but about a week - a week and a half ago, and the radiators were probably vented at that time. The riser was certainly vented after reporting the dripping to the administration, but probably not the radiators themselves. I will try to bleed the radiators again tomorrow, maybe it will work.
  • #7 11477036
    brofran
    Level 41  
    Posts: 6609
    Help: 647
    Rate: 1395
    malizna777 wrote:
    other sounds - something like dripping in radiators


    These types of noises arise if not for expansion joints at the transitions of the CO risers between ceilings, or the CO pipe rubbing against something. It is enough when some hard lint gets in these places and "drips".
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  • #8 11481037
    malizna777
    Level 9  
    Posts: 5
    Rate: 12
    The radiators were vented again yesterday evening. Without result. It was dripping at night.
    With these expansion joints, I've already read something about it. But wouldn't the problem then be permanent - that is, it would start dripping as soon as water was introduced into the radiators, and not some time later?
    I also found an interesting article answering a similar question to my query:
    http://www.ekspertbudowlany.pl/artykul/id2067,d Why-zawory-grzejnikowe-stukaja

    Maybe it is still the fault of inadequate pressure?

    Today the specialists were back (when I was at work) and it seems that they were doing something downstairs in the basement because there were water stains on the floor and walls and I learned from my husband, who stayed at home longer in the morning, that something in the radiators was buzzing for a while , it whistled, then our two radiators air a little and my husband vented them again. So far, the radiators don't seem to be dripping, but it's hard for me to say if it's not temporary, because we've just returned home.
  • #9 11497925
    malizna777
    Level 9  
    Posts: 5
    Rate: 12
    Hello after a few days.
    Continuation of my struggle with the cooperative. We are back to where we started - the noise in the radiators. I was just talking to one of the experts I had to call again. Apparently, after reducing the pressure in our country and trying to muffle the sounds I reported (dripping, whistling) in the next cage, the heating stopped working and the gentlemen had to set the pressure, so to speak, "primary", the ones that they always turn on at the beginning of the heating season, and which then have to reduce . The effect is that I am now happily in my apartment, because, and yes, nothing is dripping or whistling, because the noise that comes from the radiators (even in the first position of the thermostat, i.e. turning off the heating) effectively drowns out everything. And apparently it must stay this way until frost ... Nothing can be done. When I suggested installing a flow regulator or installing a pump with smooth regulation, you said that I read nonsense on the Internet and that it would not work. Is there something right in what the "experts" say, because I am starting to doubt my own mental health ...
    I have the impression that I found myself in Bareja's film ...
  • #10 11714737
    mariolka1435
    Level 10  
    Posts: 6
    Rate: 10
    Hello, I live on the second, top floor of a multi-family single-staircase building. There is a central heating oven in the basement. 4 years ago, I replaced the installation with copper and aluminum radiators. This year, the cooperative replaced the gas furnace and it started. In one room - although it is on the second floor, it is the first radiator in the vertical, the neighbors downstairs have a radiator on the opposite side - you can hear the water overflowing - as if water was constantly being poured into the flush. When I turn the valve on 2, it is quiet, but cold. At night it is unbearable. The radiator has an automatic air vent, there is also an air vent on the riser. I am asking for advice. The cooperative says there is no problem and I'm losing my mind.
  • #11 11715253
    W0jtek92
    Level 39  
    Posts: 3852
    Help: 469
    Rate: 1252
    and was the coal boiler installed in an open system? because probably the gas one is in a closed system ... the fact is that the disadvantage of aluminum radiators is the pump noise that can be heard in them. a closed system has a pressure in it. and therefore the noise is louder than in an open circuit. you are right in saying that after screwing on the radiator, it makes less noise. because the flow through this heater changes automatically. to eliminate this, you can try to reduce the pump power in the gas boiler, but it may result in not heating up the highest and farthest sections of the installation.
    greetings
  • #12 11715486
    mariolka1435
    Level 10  
    Posts: 6
    Rate: 10
    The installation works in a closed system. Apparently, such phenomena are only in my apartment, everything is fine in the other blocks, and the stoves were replaced everywhere. Experts from the cooperative say that it is the fault of my installation in the apartment, my hands are dropping, out of nowhere to help. He doesn't even want to let the plumber I hire into the boiler room.
  • #13 11715601
    W0jtek92
    Level 39  
    Posts: 3852
    Help: 469
    Rate: 1252
    in the remaining blocks, the pipes were also replaced with copper and are there also aluminum radiators?

    Added after 4 [minutes]:

    your installation may be a problem. because it is not known how it is made. I don't know if the radiators are air-tight, because I haven't seen this installation ..; /
  • #14 11715631
    brofran
    Level 41  
    Posts: 6609
    Help: 647
    Rate: 1395
    mariolka1435 wrote:
    you can hear the water overflowing - as if water was constantly being poured into the cistern

    It was the same with me. It helped to unscrew the valve on the radiator to max. Previously, I turned off the heater for the night like you - it was a bit colder in the apartment, but quiet - and I did not feel it under the warm duvet. :D
  • #15 11715683
    W0jtek92
    Level 39  
    Posts: 3852
    Help: 469
    Rate: 1252
    Only that if it is an ordinary valve with a mushroom head, the o-ring of the valve will leak after some time of shooting; /. And if the thermostat is less of an evil.
  • #16 11716794
    mariolka1435
    Level 10  
    Posts: 6
    Rate: 10
    In other blocks, no one mentioned the installation. For me, nothing happened to install a new furnace, the furnace was installed in December this year. I have automatic vents on the radiators, such "pipes" at the end of the radiator, Danfos valves and an automatic air vent on the riser.
  • #17 11717797
    W0jtek92
    Level 39  
    Posts: 3852
    Help: 469
    Rate: 1252
    Do you have return valves on the radiator? What "pipes" are we talking about? Can you take a picture of it? So what is a gas boiler? Because it is also possible that it has a more powerful circulation pump than the previous carbon pump. And that can cause noise and knocking.
  • #18 11717943
    mariolka1435
    Level 10  
    Posts: 6
    Rate: 10
    These are automatic vents. Afriso, as it is, I don't know, the secret of the cooperative, the boiler room is closed. Or maybe this vent broke ?????
  • #19 11718319
    W0jtek92
    Level 39  
    Posts: 3852
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    Rate: 1252
    I doubt it would be a vent. I will say this. Turn off the stove when venting. So that the pump does not run. Close the supply valve. And then vent. After several venting times, unscrew the power supply to the heater and vent again. And after that, start the boiler. Because when the boiler is working, the pump constantly dissipates the water with the air. And there is no strength to bleed the radiator in this case.
  • #20 11718361
    mariolka1435
    Level 10  
    Posts: 6
    Rate: 10
    Wojtek, thank you very much! I will go with what you wrote to the cooperative, let the installation bleed according to your recommendations
  • #21 11718479
    W0jtek92
    Level 39  
    Posts: 3852
    Help: 469
    Rate: 1252
    You're welcome ;) write later on the forum what you won :)
  • #22 11734492
    mariolka1435
    Level 10  
    Posts: 6
    Rate: 10
    Hello, yesterday the cooperative vented the furnace in the boiler room, today it was decided to install air separators in the boiler room. We will see how it will be.

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around persistent noises in heating radiators, specifically in a top-floor apartment of a cooperative block. The user reports issues such as humming, squeaking, and dripping sounds, which worsen during the heating season. Despite multiple interventions, including venting the radiators and adjusting system pressure, the noises persist. Various contributors suggest potential causes, including trapped air in the system, inadequate pressure, and issues with expansion joints or the circulation pump. The user has automatic air vents (Danfoss) installed but continues to experience disturbances, particularly at night. The cooperative's maintenance team has attempted to address the problem, but the user remains dissatisfied with the results. Recent suggestions include further venting procedures and the installation of air separators in the boiler room to mitigate the noise.
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FAQ

TL;DR: 45 dB(A) radiator gurgle is common; "Air is the enemy of quiet radiators" [CIBSE, 2020; HVAC Expert 2019]. Frequent bleeding, correct pump speed and 1–1.5 bar pressure solve 90 % of residential noise cases [Viessmann, 2021]. Most sounds trace back to trapped air, excessive flow, or pipes rubbing on structure. Bleed with pump off, set pump to lowest speed that still heats, and ask the cooperative for an air-separator or differential-pressure valve.

Why it matters: Noisy radiators signal inefficiency and can hide corrosion-accelerating oxygen in the system.

Quick Facts

• Recommended system pressure (2-storey buildings): 1.0–1.5 bar [Viessmann, 2021] • Variable-speed pumps cut noise by up to 60 % [Grundfos, 2022] • Micro-bubble air separator removes 99 % of entrained air [Spirotech, 2022] • Thermostatic valve noise limit: ΔP ≤ 0.2 bar [Danfoss, 2020] • Pipe-through-slab sleeves need 2 mm clearance to prevent creaks [CIBSE, 2020]

Why do radiators hum even when the thermostat is on “1”?

Hum means water still moves through the valve. If pump head or system pressure is high, flow continues despite the nearly closed thermostatic valve, and turbulence causes noise [Elektroda, malizna777, post #11497925] Reducing pump speed or fitting a differential-pressure bypass usually stops the hum [Grundfos, 2022].

What causes the rhythmic dripping or knocking heard in only one or two heaters?

Localised dripping points to pipes rubbing on concrete where they pass slabs or walls without sleeves. Thermal expansion makes the pipe jump, creating a drip-like knock [Elektroda, brofran, post #11477036] Installing nylon sleeves or felt around the riser cures it [CIBSE, 2020].

Does high system pressure increase noise?

Yes. Above 1.5 bar, flow velocity and valve ΔP rise, amplifying hiss and whistle [Viessmann, 2021]. In the forum case, lowering pressure temporarily silenced the radiators [Elektroda, malizna777, post #11472626]

How do I bleed radiators in a closed gas-boiler system?

Use this 3-step method:
  1. Turn boiler and pump off for 10 min.
  2. Close the supply valve, open bleed screw until water only.
  3. Re-open valve, run boiler, then repeat once [Elektroda, W0jtek92, post #11718319]

Will automatic air vents alone solve gurgling?

They help but cannot release fast-moving micro-bubbles. An air separator installed near the boiler captures 99 % of these bubbles, giving quieter operation within hours [Spirotech, 2022].

Can pump speed in a new gas boiler make aluminium radiators louder?

Aluminium radiators transmit pump noise well. A replacement boiler often has a stronger pump; setting it one speed lower cuts sound by up to 6 dB [Elektroda, W0jtek92, post #11715253]

My neighbour’s valve clicks on and off—why do I hear new noises then?

Shared vertical risers mean your flow rate changes when a neighbour’s thermostatic valve opens. The sudden ΔP shift makes your valves hiss until the system balances [Danfoss, 2020].

Edge case: what if bleeding and pressure tweaks fail?

Rarely, a damaged thermostatic insert whistles continuously. Replacing the insert stops the noise 95 % of the time; cost is approx. €12 per valve [Danfoss, 2020].

What does an air separator cost and who should pay?

Domestic-size dirt/air separators cost €60–€120 installed. Because it benefits every apartment, housing rules normally charge the cooperative’s maintenance budget [Spirotech, 2022].

Could missing expansion joints create permanent pipe squeak?

Yes. Without joints, steel risers expand up to 8 mm over two storeys, scraping concrete each cycle. Repair needs opening ceilings, a disruptive and expensive fix [CIBSE, 2020].

Is it safe to fully open a noisy radiator all winter?

Yes, if room heat is acceptable. Full opening removes ΔP across the valve and often eliminates overflow noise [Elektroda, brofran, post #11715631]

What maintenance should my cooperative schedule to keep the system quiet?

Annual checklist: verify expansion vessel pre-charge, bleed with pump off, clean strainers, test automatic vents, and record pump speed. "Preventive checks cut call-outs by 40 %" [HVAC Expert 2019].
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