Radiators Need Daily Venting: Automatic Air Vents, Pump Faults, Loud Stove Pipes & Temp Control

I have a problem with the radiators. We replaced the old cast iron radiators with new ones and they often get air poisoned. They need to be vented daily. We have installed vents, but you have to bleed them yourself. Are there automatic air vents and where can you get them? Why do the radiators keep getting air of them. Could it be the fault of the pump?
When lighting the stove, it shoots so much in the pipes that you can't sleep! Why does it shoot like that when firing up? Or maybe a new furnace with a temperature control function that would change something? Please advise what to do with this problem!

Added after 14 [minutes]:

Please advise me because he goes crazy at home, the more that I have a small child and this shooting wakes him up. Is it shooting, what can you hear, maybe the air in the pipes, but where is this air coming from?

Hello, there are automatic vents to buy in plumbing stores, I have no idea where this air is coming from, write something more about the entire system. Perhaps after this replacement, the system has not yet vented, and it will pass over time.

A little more information about the installation, boiler, pump, type of system, what radiators, if only the radiators were replaced.

The boiler is ordinary from Zębiecki. We have hot water from the central heating and we also started the pump back then, it was 10 years ago. We replaced the radiators this year, in August, we changed the radiators to aluminum ones, and since this replacement we keep getting air, they are vented every day, and the next day, half the radiator is cold. The pump is not always turned on, we turn it off at night, because we use it when we want to heat the rooms on the ground floor because this year we installed heaters on the ground floor, where they were not there before and they are on the same level with the stove and if the pump did not turn on the heaters not to heat. while burning in the stove, it shoots in the pipes and it is quite inconvenient because even when it dims a little and sticks to the stove, they start firing again. And last week in one of the rooms an aluminum heater started firing, which was replaced a year ago and has not been firing so far. Maybe the shooting is air? or maybe there is a leak somewhere and air is getting in but I have not noticed that there is water dripping somewhere. there is water in the expansion tank.

Try to carefully bleed the entire installation, including the boiler.

Can you honestly say how much did these radiators cost? There is a lot of imports from the Far East on the market (PLN 25 / rib and less). These heaters are made of an alloy that has great thermal expansion and hence these "arrows" (stresses). Since they do not have a protective layer, aluminum oxidizes in contact with water, which gives the effect of "airing". Decent aluminum radiators of a Polish or Italian manufacturer are at least PLN 30-35 / rib in detail.

Hello!
Maybe this "shooting" is caused by boiling water in the reservoir?

There was an installation made of steel pipes with large cross-sections, and now, following the fashion, there are thin copper ones ... Hence these arrows
This is how I see it

with this shooting, it may be that the pipes passing through the walls, ceiling or floor can be permanently plastered, but they should not, and when heated, they stretch gently, make sounds I had the same when they warm up everything is ok, the noise is only when you light up under the stove and all pipes start to heat up as to air in the air or you have the entire system air in it, maybe try to refill the water frequently, vent only when you refill the water level in the installation because it may be that you bleed some radiators and the other ones get air and you have pointless work around

Does it shoot while the pump is running? If not, it means that the gravitational system is too weak and the water cannot keep up with receiving heat from the boiler, which causes it to shoot and air to air. In this situation, the pump must run non-stop (through the controller, of course).

And the installation is probably open? How do you vent these radiators, do you replenish this lack of water in the expansion tank? How much of this water do you add each time? The type of radiators does not matter much, I would see a problem in the installation itself.

You made a fundamental mistake - you believed in "marketing".
You changed a great installation: gravity, steel with cast iron radiators-
for something worse: thin copper soldered tubes and steel (sheet) radiators.
So you have exchanged something better for something worse - for an additional fee.
We are all so stretched, on all sides.
What can I advise:
- check: pipe fastening, it should be loose, so that the pipe can be moved,
- long straight pieces of pipes should have u-shaped fittings soldered in to compensate for the thermal expansion of the pipe, you can see the need for this compensation when the pipe bends excessively,
- Radiators make the most noise: hangers on which they are attached should have plastic covers so that metal catches in the radiators do not move directly over the metal holder. Such a sheet radiator is a kind of sound-amplifying membrane.
Being a tease by nature, I would grab the experts of this job by the ears, demand a refund, dismantle the rubbish and reassemble the previous installation.
I remembered: the gravity installation is venting itself and this important advantage was deprived of you by this specialist!
Greetings.

A closed installation also bleeds itself, if there is a plug with an automatic vent on each radiator (low cost) and there is an automatic vent at the highest point of the installation. I have had no problem with venting for several years.

And what is the difference between the diameter of a 1/2 "steel pipe (this is the most common for the radiator) and a copper pipe, e.g. 15 mm?

Steel pipe 1/2 internal diameter 16, copper pipe 15 internal diameter 13.

The water is boiling in the oven, I have it at home

oszczędniak wrote:

The water is boiling in the oven, I have it at home

That's not true, water cannot boil in the oven. Unless you put an electric kettle in the stove.

Thanks everyone for your help! I have read your advice and we are slowly figuring out what is shooting like this! The fixings on which the radiators are mounted were popping a bit, but the noise is still the biggest! and we don't know what to do! Because it shoots even when the pump is on. And in addition, it does not shoot when it fires up, but it shoots all the time that you cannot sleep. Only when it stops burning in the furnace is it quiet. You probably need to check the pipe penetrations through the walls because there is probably a problem here, but it means that they would have to be broken! I'm just running out of strength! It would be appropriate to make the central one from scratch, but unfortunately it is a high cost!

Hello, I would bet on a stove. It is probably he who shoots and the professional ones put him directly on the concrete and did not use the flexible connection of the pipes at the outlets from the furnace. Greetings. There is a problem with the air in the pump, the water is not working, the water is boiling in the furnace and there are air in the radiators. greetings

IN spring we have to replace the stove with a bigger one, because this one, unfortunately, cannot cope with it, it is too small for such a number of radiators. What to put a new stove on if not concrete? Or maybe someone will advise what stove to buy?
The pump works because the radiators in the rooms on the ground floor heats up because if it is turned off, they are cold, it must work if they heat up! and the water does not boil because since we added more radiators on the stove, the temperature does not reach 80 degrees, it used to be, but now, that's not why we have to replace the stove with a new one!
and the radiators are bleeding every day, even the vents cannot be used!

The total number of ribs is 150 + 2 bathroom radiators and the small tooth stove is already 10 years old and as for the parameters, I will write them when I find them, because I do not know what parameters it has.
As for the air vents, we installed them recently because we could not vent the radiators!

Maybe it's funny, but check one more thing, namely whether the air, or rather the gas, is not flammable. Once I read on the murator forum that in the connection of copper pipes and aluminum radiators, flammable gas (probably hydrogen) was released in the installation and it contained air.
Just be careful though
Supposedly, an inhibitor helped, or what they call it.

This is more scary than funny! and how to check it? so that the house is not blown up! and is it possible at all? After all, it would be very dangerous if people had such gas in the heaters!

Unscrew it gently and put the match on. It won't explode, at most it will catch fire, although I doubt the story myself.
But the relationships seem real:
http://forum.info-ogarzenia.pl/index.php?showtopic=3844
http://www.lazienkowy.pl/105-6-11.htm
http://forum.muratordom.pl/a-jednak-wodor-w-i...98.htm?highlight=instalacja%20rur%20miedzkich
I suggest you try it with this inhibitor.

Don't scare women! The gas can only escape from the installation and is not produced by hydrolysis (not in perceptible amounts) in the heating installation. Water vapor may be produced if there is no good automatic air vent, no release.

And you will shoot and shoot.
You made a BASIC mistake.
You put a solid fuel stove into an installation with a low water volume (as experts say).
And you have the effect. The water, even chased by the pump, will not have time to get out of the furnace when it overheats and hence the shots. This is the water in the furnace boiling.
Give the pump at high efficiency (and after a short time it will be full of hot water in the installation) and change to gas stove.
You've already eliminated other causes.
Answer but the truth
what is the diameter of the main pipe from the furnace - supply and return ??
How much water do you have in the installation (let it out and fill it up looking at the meter) ??

The number of ribs makes no difference, only the liter capacity is important. ..
With this power received, the pipe from the furnace should be at least 32 mm, then it was poured into a smaller one.
And still the most important thing is the volume of the complex ..

Sorry, but you are not writing the truth.
There was an installation with an ordinary coal boiler (1.5 m of heating surface, although it should be about 2.1 but with a power of 17.5 kW - with a demand of 12.5 kW), pipes at the furnace connection -1 "with reductions to 3/4" and 1/2 "at the very top and" on the twigs.
Cast iron radiators - 120 ribs, pump 0.75kW (I do not know the capacity).
All this was also connected to the municipal network.
Due to the low inertia of cast iron and water capacity - first I reduced the number of ribs to the design 69 pieces (!) And then replaced them with Purmo convection heaters with a total power of 16kW (according to the design, 10.5kW is enough)
This resulted in energy savings of about 20%, but the bills were too high anyway - I switched to my own
And despite the fact that previously there was about 300l of water in cast iron, now nothing shoots or collapses.
The cross-sections of the pipes have nothing to do with installation with a pump.
In my case, overheating and airing of the system occurs only when I overfill the furnace and the house is already so hot that the thermostats choke the heat reception by the radiators.
If, on the other hand, I have time to react (temperature on the stove - about 85C) and turn the thermostats on full - they will have time to pick up the heat of the water and it's ok (but there is a sausage in the house)
In the described "broken" case, I would consider how to install the radiators (bevels of twigs)
I do not know the spacing of connections of the radiators installed by them, but:

60cm cast iron rib - spacing 55 and distance from the wall 8.5
Purmo convector 60cm - 50 and 6.5 respectively
but I also tried to convert to aluminum convectors (I don't remember ... it's 10 years ago) and these 60 nets had a width of exactly 60 cm.

Therefore, it suggests installation error. Perhaps the knobs do not have the correct connection angles.

Samurai. You wrote about copper pipes, I have cast iron pipes that connect to aluminum radiators, so there is no gas there!