Professional Techniques for Silicone Application When Embedding a Conglomerate Sink

Hello,
- I have already cut a hole in the countertop, now, according to the instructions, I have to put silicone on the edge of the hole and put a sink on it. What's the problem? The fact that the sink is made of a conglomerate, so heavy. Its circumference is 10 mm larger than the hole in the table top, so when I insert this heavy table top, the silicone will spread beyond its outline - onto the table top. having some experience with silicone, I know that this excess cannot be removed from the countertop. In a word, the table top becomes more or less dirty with this silicone.
Question: how is it done professionally, - can you cover the edge of the countertop on the border with the sink with a painter's tape? The table top is inexpensive, it is ordinary laminated chipboard, but I would not like to destroy it.

greetings

Hello.
As you write, cover with painter's tape so that it overlaps 2 mm under the sink. After the silicone is dry, gently cut and remove the painter's tape.
Greetings.

Ryszard49 wrote:

Hello.
As you write, cover with painter's tape so that it overlaps 2 mm under the sink. After the silicone is dry, gently cut and remove the painter's tape.
Greetings.

OK, but will these 2 mm remain under the dishwasher? What if I glue the tape flush with its edge?

I work in a carpentry shop, so it's my everyday life (custom-made furniture). You normally give silicone in excess. You put the sink in, after squeezing it onto the brim (it's nice if it goes around, then you can be sure that it is tight) you take off the excess, we do it with pieces of felt. Only on the second day, when the silicone dries, the customer himself wipes off the excess that is left on the laminate with his finger, for example. Everyone coped with it, the silicone comes off without scrubbing, just like the skin after sunbathing. You simply rub your finger and a very thin layer curls into a roll.

You can stick the tape flush with the edge of the sink, but I blew it hot. When installing the hob, I did it a bit inaccurately and later had a problem with removing the silicone residue from the countertop.
Sołtys_Elbląga apparently uses a different silicone.

We use Soudal silicone if the company really matters.

Ryszard49 wrote:

... later I had a problem with removing the silicone residue from the countertop. Sołtys_Elbląga apparently uses a different silicone ...

It is 1: 1, you write that the silicone squeezed out by the weight of the tabletop will stick to it, colleague Sołtys_Elbląg that it will not stick. I started the thread because I also think it will stick. I should believe the Sołtys - a professional, but I don't think there will be any way out, but to lose the day and make an attempt "on the side"
greetings

A professional over there, I'm just cleaning there You give normally with a lot of excess, if it does not come out everywhere there is a chance that you will not seal well and the top will swell. We also use silicone instead of glue - in wood (mdf, chipboard) it works very well. Exactly acrylic sealant (i.e. silicone but acrylic), I will give my hand a cut, it will come off well, if not, I will come myself and you will hear "I'm sorry" from my girlfriend as compensation. On some of them there is an inscription that it is not resistant to moisture, etc., from soudala I do not know if it is, but within 5 years there was no complaint.

Sołtys_Elbląga wrote:

... Exactly an acrylic sealant (i.e. silicone, but acrylic) ..

Well, if it's acrylic, it's not silicone? In the dishwasher papers they write about silicone, not acrylic:?

Sołtys_Elbląga wrote:

... if not, I'll come myself and you will hear "I'm sorry" from my girlfriend as compensation.

Pretty though?

5050piotr wrote:

Well, if it's acrylic, it's not silicone? In the dishwasher papers they write about silicone, not acrylic:?

Acrylic silicone. In fact, the usual silicone, if I have not rubbed on the table, after drying it came off even when wiped with a cloth. But only acrylic is used in the mounts.

5050piotr wrote:

Pretty though?

Give me an e-mail, I'll send you nude pics of her.

I did an acrylic test for you so that you don't have to get your hands dirty at home.
The first picture shows pressed acrylic, the second is smeared, the third and fourth acrylic after finger drying after 8.5 hours of drying.

A thin layer represents the residue on the porous laminate, then you take a damp cloth and wipe the residue off. Next to it, you have a thicker layer, as if the thick one was wiping off, you can see the effect for yourself. The temperature in which the described element was located was within 19 - 23 degrees C.

Cheaper and faster will be the use of 1.5-2mm thick double-sided self-adhesive tape.
Stick to the rim of the sink and after inserting it, cut off the excess tape.

The silicones that I used had an acetate curing system, the same ones that are resistant to temperature, I use for gluing the heating plates and no force will peel them off.

Sołtys_Elbląga wrote:

I did an acrylic test for you ....

You can't even imagine how grateful I am to you. Not only do you do experiments for me, but you also offer me your girlfriend, absolutely naked .
OK, acrylic comes off the worktop nicely. Unfortunately, how I managed to do it. here Link read, it is not a suitable sealant in places exposed to moisture It has to be silicone and I think there is no other - better way than taping the edge with tape.
By the way, - in the video posted by Kol. Phanicka, the guest mounts the dishwasher not on silicone, but on a gasket.
greetings

Added after 4 [minutes]:

ds30 wrote:

It doesn't hurt to have some kind of cleaner ready.

Thanks, I didn't know such a thing existed.
greetings

People! What are you making the problem with? You paste the sink on silicone (this is a trade name, because in fact silicone is something else), you wipe the excess with a rag, and if there are any traces, wipe it off with your finger, or the next day with gasoline. Fresh silicone is also washed off with water and washing-up liquid. I don't know what the trouble is.

balonika3 wrote:

People! What are you making the problem with?

The problem stems from the fact that so far no one has written the technology of embedding the sink on silicone - although such a mounting is required for composite sinks and the like. The problem is, because they ask in German and English on this topic. Probably also in Russian.

balonika3 wrote:

You paste the sink on silicone (this is a trade name, because in fact silicone is something else)

Neither I nor anyone in this thread asked what to paste the sink on; from the beginning - vide the title - the question is not "what?", but "how?". There was also no question what is silicone.

balonika3 wrote:

You can wipe the excess with a rag, and if there are any traces, rub it with your finger, or the next day with gasoline. Fresh silicone is also washed off with water and washing-up liquid. I don't know what the trouble is.

The problem will arise when you wipe off the excess silicone - as you advise - with a rag. The next day, you can pour gasoline on this countertop and set it on fire, because you won't be able to deal with silicone the next day. On the other hand, you can use water and detergent to smooth out non-bound silicone (without the "skin effect"). I know that much because it says it on every package.

5050piotr wrote:

I know that much, because it says it on every package.

There are people who do (and know) something and there are people who just read the packaging. You will do as you like.

Hello,
the topic is a bit old but ... I installed two sinks by myself in wooden oak tops and maybe my way will be repeated.

Of course, I assume that the hole for the sink is already there and that it is well cut.
I also omit the issue of screwing in taps, drain hoses and the sequence of these connections, which is also important so that I do not get tired afterwards ...

First, you will need:
- several pairs of latex gloves
- transparent anti-mold and fungus silicone
- cubes for collecting excess silicone (such with different edges and angles of rounding, something around PLN 10, it is worth having, so that the same angle always comes out)
- white spirit

Lest it were, I found these cubes here .

On the first day, wearing gloves, I covered the entire vertical cutout with a fairly thick layer of silicone. I tried not to let it spill out on the table top, but it did, of course, a little. That's okay.
So I normally squeezed out the silicone and then smeared it with my finger.

When it dried up, that is, on the second day, I cut with a knife what went above the hole.
I applied around the edge - very close to it - such a thick roller of silicone.
I gave the same one on the sink in the place of the rim.
I put the third one in the cut in the middle so that the push-in sink would have silicone between the conglomerate and the silicone layer from the previous day.

And now it is enough to hit the notch exactly. It's best to do it the first time and let the excess silicone squeeze calmly onto the countertop.
The second time I even pressed the sink properly, leaving a gap for silicone between the table top and the sink of about 2mm.
The effect is great.

I immediately collected the excess silicone with a dice, and what was left with an old cotton shirt + white spirit. It comes off perfectly and leaves no traces on the conglomerate or on the wood. I have a white conglomerate.

24h waiting and ready.

And what do you think, better to install a "granite" sink with a top (laminate) will be "vinegar" or neutral silicone?

pawlakrobert wrote:

And what do you think, better to install a "granite" sink with a top (laminate) will be "vinegar" or neutral silicone?

It doesn't really matter. The more important thing is that there is silicone antifungal , because there is always a lot of moisture around the sink.

I am asking, because it is recommended to use neutral sanitary silicone for acrylic shower trays. Apparently acetic acid reacts and does not hold well. Yesterday at my paddling pool, this is what I noticed. It departs spontaneously from acrylic. Holds well to the tiles. And I degreased the tiles and the paddling pool with acetone.

In the other direction, I will ask for a hint on how to detach such a sink attached to the countertop with silicone - I can destroy the countertop.

Use a wallpaper knife to cut the silicone around the sink

Thank you ??

Can an overlay sink be fixed with silicone? If so, what basic mistakes should you avoid? Greetings.

What is an "stacked top"?

A small mistake, it was a pull-over sink. I coped with it. You can stick such a sink without any problems