300L Double Coil Boiler: Enamelled vs Stainless Steel - Lifespan and Corrosion Concerns

orzech1984 wrote:

I suggest doing a simple water test first. Then you will know if the chlorine control is actually exceeded.

I don't have to do the tests, the rams hooked me up to the water supply pipe to the water tower.
There must always be a higher concentration in this pipe for some of the chlorine to reach the pressure tower. What most water consumers feel as chlorine is the remnants of what went down the pipes to the water tower where most of it evaporates.
If I close the bathroom while filling the bathtub with water, before half the bathtub is filled with water, there is a gas chamber in the bathroom, it is impossible to enter, not to mention breathing.

orzech1984 wrote:

Don't confuse stainless with acid-proof. Acid-resistant is stainless, but not all stainless steel is acid-resistant. There are a lot of stainless steel alloys and their quality is not always high. That is why we often get anodes for such tanks. Only a few people wonder why? If something is supposed to be stainless, what the hell do they put on me with anode protection? Also, don't look at the price in the first place. Nobody will give anything for free and if something is cheaper, unfortunately, the manufacturer has saved somewhere.
If you are looking for an acid-resistant tank (INOX 316L) with coils that are also acid-resistant, then in Poland you will only find LAPESA. ACV does only on INOX 304, i.e. stainless steel. Unfortunately, hardly anyone checks such facts and the slogan "stainless steel" is constantly circulating without checking what kind of steel alloy it is. You can't stick a magnet to a real sourdough, which shows that this type of steel really won't stick to the walls. Stainless isn't like that anymore.
In LAPESA you also have an inspection gangway so you can clean any sediment physically without the need for rinsing. The walls of such an undulating tank work when the water temperature changes, so that if a stone appears there, it will be rejected
Of course, such tanks can also be destroyed. First of all, you need to pay attention to:
1. "blading currents". So that they do not destroy the acid-resistant and stainless steel, the installation should be separated from the tank with a material that does not conduct electricity (e.g. a piece of PP or brass).
2. Chlorine. INOX 316 has twice as much protection against the action of these compounds as INOX 304, so watch out for lifetime guarantees, because when reading the small print, there are written values of chemistry that may be in the water cycle. Then you think you have a guarantee and you find out you don't.
GREETINGS

Magnesium will stick to both 304 and 316L and is unrelated to the type of stainless steel. Magnesium will not stick only to ferritic steels because it has a different structure. In fact, the corrosion resistance of steel depends mainly on the elements contained in the steel, in particular molybdenum, chromium and titanium, which protects against corrosion at higher temperatures. There are steels that have a similar chemical composition as 316L and even better because with the addition of titanium to which magnesium will not stick and corrosion resistance will be greater. Indeed, the Lapessa company makes tanks from 316L and praise them but the prices are cosmic 300L tank PLN 5520 net, where Chełchowski PLN 1932 net and Termica PLN 3190 net. Who can afford what. As I have already found out, Termica actually makes them of 304 steel, i.e. linden, while the Chełchowski company has good steel, but they did not give me the grade, they only told me that it is steel like 316L with the addition of titanium that protects against corrosion at high temperatures.

monteron. Tank only with specification. Never a word. Chełki may already be working in standard on 316 L. But the insulation of this tank....... . Therefore, the price will be lower. It all depends on who can afford what. Producers for what production, buyers for what purchase. But the most important awareness: All the important details should be combined (316L steel tank and coil, pickled welds, inspection hole, polyurethane foam insulation, Alu or PVC jacket) Then we have the perfect... And the perfect costs.... .... and so that it does not turn out that the weakest link will be .... an electric heater .... from a subcontractor ... :)


P.S. To the moderator: Wouldn't it be better to move this topic to SG Utility to expand the readership?

It's like comparing an enallic pot to a stainless steel pot.
Enamelled - advantages: lower price, good resistance to poor quality water
Disadvantages - lower durability, the need to replace the anodes, sometimes an unpleasant smell of water due to the anode, high defect

Stainless - as someone wrote, you can't put all stainless steel in one basket. The best used in Europe is Duplex steel.

Advantages - very high durability, practically several dozen years when using a water softener, hygienic - no anode, light tank

Disadvantages - the price is about 1/3 higher than a good enameled tank
watch out for limescale in the water.
There are some good manufacturers at reasonable prices with a very decent warranty
Kingspan Ultra - 12 years, Termica - 8 years, Acv - depends on the type.

Hello, there is also the option of a copper boiler, I bought one 250 liters with a 3 m square coil in the UK I heat the water with a mitsubishi ecodan heat pump revelation 5 kw will charge 25 groszy in the G 13 tariff Albion Aerocyl boiler, I note that it is made entirely of copper, including the coil greetings.

Cool. Only if you know how much you paid? How do you assess the costs with depreciation over, say, 15 years?
As far as I know, copper is not allowed for sanitary hot water installations. I wonder if something like this is even being sold.

Added after 17 [minutes]:

1977Tomek wrote:

It's like comparing an enallic pot to a stainless steel pot.

Stainless - as someone wrote, you can't put all stainless steel in one basket. The best used in Europe is Duplex steel.

We are talking about acid, not stainless steel. Let's be serious. There are two cool films on the market what they will do with 316L 130l for about PLN 2000.

To a large extent you are right, but it also depends on what you expect from the pot.
Here we have a tank in the basement and we count the costs and risks - probably everyone has such expectations.
In order for a standard canister to show possible hidden defects, you must change the anode through the service for 5 years. (I'm curious about titanium because you have a "wonderful" Galmet has been writing back to me for over a week)
Later, these anodes have to be changed and this is also a cost. Counting, let's say, 20 years (although I would rather see 25-30 here), the whole cost makes sourdough at a reasonable price a cheaper solution. Even a lot. Not even counting a few replacements of the ordinary steel tank. And this is a risk - an additional cost that must be factored in. This cost is unknown and poses a high risk to this alternative in the water mania business I don't want that and probably everyone expects that from this investment. How much will the sourdough take?
With good water, the prospect of a minimum of 30 years is the most appropriate expectation.
Acid does not seem to catch the stone.

The pot is not a boiler. Needs may change, I cook something else, the family composition has changed, you change kitchens, you want different ones, this one got bored because I prefer something retro, blackened, it could be damaged.
The water tank is hanging in the basement and thank you. I think hardly anyone needs to get a new boiler because it already has an ugly casing and you would prefer red and horizontal rather than standing.