Lighting connection + relay selection for 230V halogen, dimmer, OR-CR-207?

Hello,
I have a bit of a problem with relay selection, though not exclusively.
I have two light sources "h1" and "h2" (230V halogen bulbs) and only two switches, actually one, as the other is the dimmer shown below.

Operating principle:
The bell switch changes states on relay 1 (bistable):
- switching on light h1 at 100% possible brightness,
- switching on motion detector 1, which, upon detecting movement, turns on light h1 at the brightness set on the dimmer,
- switching on light h2 in 100% possible brightness,
- no possibility of switching on light h1.

Motion sensor 2 switches on light h2 with the brightness set on the dimmer.

Which cannot be changed:
number of switches: 1 switch + dimmer,
dimmer,
number and type of movement sensors: two sensors OR-CR-207,

What can be changed:
type of switch,
relays,

I don't know much about relays, so please choose the right ones and reduce the number. Someone may know how to wire it better, maybe there is some wonderful cheap relay that will take care of the whole thing. I won't hide the fact that some sort of schematic for the layman would be helpful.
One more question, can the dimmer work without being loaded, i.e. give voltage at the output but not power any bulb ?

It seems to me that the previous concept is a bit too confusing, so probably no one wants to analyse it, then maybe a bit different....

In the diagram below we have three electromagnetic relays. The principle is quite simple - the click of a switch gives voltage to the coil of relay 1, which switches the contact. This relay has two possible states:
- lights h1 and h2 at 100% possible brightness;
- it energises the sensors which, when motion is detected, energise the coils of the subsequent relays, which in turn release voltage from the dimmer to the corresponding bulbs.

Problem to be solved:
reducing the number of relays and, if other that electromagnetic are used, identifying some specific ones. I ask this because these relays have a rather unpleasant disadvantage, namely they make a well audible noise when switching contacts.

I repeat the question from an earlier post:

Quote:

..can the dimmer operate without being loaded, i.e. give voltage to the output but not power any bulb ?

Thank you.

If I may interject...
To solve this oproblem there is such a device....

http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/621069/Elt...mschalter-EUD12NPN-Blau-Grau?ref=searchDetail

It is a rail-mounted "dimmer", and controlled by a momentary (bell) double button. One button dims the other lightens.

Adjustable output voltage from 0 to the supply voltage.

The brightening of the bulb depends on the length of time the key is held up to the maximum output.
One click - if the bulb is off - turns it on, if it is on - turns it off.
If the bulb is lit at full power, holding the key dims it to 0.

Theoretically, according to the manufacturer, the device is supposed to work with any type of light source.
In my practice, it does not look interesting. On "ordinary" light bulbs, it works without any problem.
In contrast, energy-saving and halogen lamps with electronics behave differently.
There is also a "canned" version.
http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/621067/Elt...mmschalter-EUD61NP-230V-Blau?ref=searchDetail

OK, I just don't know to what extent it solves my problem. In what way does its functionality differ from the dimmer I currently have. The current one dims or brightens with a knob and clicking on it turns it off or on. This is more about bypassing the motion sensors.

SCO -802 or 812 2 pieces and draw a diagram

link http://www.fif.com.pl/43


Just an idea....

OK, I managed to reduce the schematic by one relay. All I had to do was use a staircase switch (simple right:]). However, I still don't like the fact that these are electromagnetic relays, admittedly they are cheap (a finder relay is about £16-18/pc), but noisy. Maybe someone knows of some 'cheap' solid state replacements?

My issue is that I have two rooms, each with: 1 switch, 1 motion sensor and lighting. I just want to get as many possible states as possible. Anybody have any other ideas on how to put it all together?
I repeat the question:

Quote:

..can the dimmer work without being loaded, i.e. give voltage to the output but not power any bulb ?

P.S..
Fellow jorgkrab, very cool idea. Thank you. I just don't know how to plug a motion sensor into all of this?

I think this is a good solution, maybe not cheap, but it has all the functions, 1) it controls the actuators for heating, switching, dimming and blinds


2) It receives information from transmitters, receivers and temperature sensors


3) manages programmes for heating and regulation
You can use its functions in this solution for your lighting has instrumentation .

http://www.elkoep.pl/produkty/inels-rf-contro...dotykowa-jednostka-sterujaca-rf-touch-w-3187/

This is my idea....
Not tested practically, can be upgraded.


Greetings

The vendor states that the motion detector can supply 1200W - nothing prevents getting rid of more relays and inserting a switch for each bulb (circuit).
Current flow from L:
one dimmer, then two independent "channels" consisting of : motion sensor (contacts), switch and halogen - to N.