LIQUI MOLY Engine Flush: Real Experiences on Oil Consumption and Leakage

Hello, I would like to know from how many you have decreased (or increased) the consumption / consumption / leakage of oil after flushing the engine with specific drugs such as LIQUI MOLY Engine Flush and the like. I am asking only for the facts of people who really used such preparations or used, for example, kerosene, not fortune-tellers and not bringing anything to the content of the comments. If not this department, please move it.

But for oil or fuel?

I was doing a rinse because I changed the oil from mineral (the previous owner poured it like that) to semi-synthetic. I flooded Motula. For 10 thousand it takes about 1 liter (it does not smoke). It's not bad for a worn-out Vectra B. He took more mineral, but this is apparently Motul's advantage.

Grigori310891 wrote:

not fortune tellers

You're making a fortune teller on your own, because you want shit giving a mouthwash to make the engine take less oil

MARIUSZ R wrote:

He took more mineral, but this is apparently Motul's advantage.

Not only Motula but also, for example, Liqui Moly.
My friend drove on Castrol and added almost half a liter every month after switching to Liqui moly, after two months he did not add anything yet. For over a year I was hammering him to his head that it could be the oil's fault ... Last week he flooded Ceratec and after 3 days he found that after turning off the engine there is silence and earlier he heard the turbo slow down after turning off. And for the experts and doubters, he did not fix the turbo, but it made it easier for him to spin, which will definitely extend his life ;-)

A few years ago I bought a small excavator from a friend, it was almost a miracle to light it, and she smoked and had no power because she had already worked out her own!
Better for me because it was cheap
I treated it with Liqui moly products - rinse, injection cleaning additive 2666, oil plus ceratec and it flies to this day It does not smoke and lights up nicely ...
When it got hot, the hydraulics lost their power, but the Xado hydraulics ceramizer helped and you can work normally.

Grigori310891 wrote:

from how many to how many you have decreased (or increased) your consumption / consumption /

Flood with Motul or Liqui moly and immediately the car will take less oil and flood Ceratec and you will see a significant improvement in engine performance and lower fuel consumption.
Last year I bought a Punto with an engine for overhaul, the oil shone at idle speed, often using poor oil, kills the dragon and you have to clean everything.
I didn't even take the pan off, rinsed the engine, poured out the oil, I sold the car to my neighbor and so far there is no problem with the light.
However, try to buy these products abroad because Poland is unfortunately a códuf country the packaging will be like the original and inside it is semolina or jelly

milejow wrote:

You wanna shit gargle make the engine take less oil

A colleague is right because if there are old seals or worn rings in the engine, the rinse will not help much, but if the reason for taking the oil is because the rings are sealed with sludge, the Liqui Moly rinse will help as much as possible.

Grigori310891 wrote:

oil leaks

I have never used chemicals to seal engines because when there is an old sealant, it simply needs to be replaced.

I use Liqui rinses for cars, e.g. after the Long Life service, for my own cars and wherever you can see neglected engine oil. It can cause leaks, but generally where the seals are not the best (old, hard). When it comes to reducing oil consumption, it is not the rinse that causes it, but the use of appropriate, quality oil (Castrol is not). The 25-year-old BMW, which I used to drive until recently, was also cleaned every other change and somehow survived by driving on synthetic, now I have a gasoline Audi V6 and when I bought it I added 2L of oil before driving on the lift (Long Life and Castrol inspections). I rinsed it, sealed it, flooded the 5W40 Eneos and after 1000 km I do not see a cavity yet.
So if you buy a corpse where the pistons fly in cylinders like a bucket over a well, even if you flood the doctor with it, it will not help him. If your problem is seized rings or just old and poor quality oil, which has a tendency to burn from the temperature in the engine, the use of such chemistry + proper oil selection will certainly have a better effect, although not always immediately.

milejow wrote:

Grigori310891 wrote:

not fortune tellers

You're making a fortune teller on your own, because you want shit giving a mouthwash to make the engine take less oil

Buddy, you are too radical on this issue.
Neglected engines (including great long life service) have rings covered with carbon and do not work as they should. Of course, it has the same effect as after renovation, but the skilful use of appropriate chemicals significantly improves the condition of the engine in this regard, oil consumption by the rings.

In Peugeot 407 2.0 b - engines that have a tendency to overheat and thus take larger amounts of oil, I made a rinse using the LIQUI MOLY Engine Flush Pro-line. Before this procedure, I added about 2 liters of oil for 10,000 km. At this point, I drove 1.5 thousand km and I did not add a drop - it was slightly reduced on the dipstick (about 1 mm), but compared to what happened before, the glass for 1000 km is a significant improvement - the engine's work has also improved.
There is no question of any leaks or dissolution of seals as some write it.

Does it make sense to rinse in Lancer 1.8 2009 when it takes 200-300 ml per 100 km or repair it right away?

I checked the Ceratec works, and the remover always rinses out more muck before changing the oil to fresh.

I was skeptical about rinses, rather I am a supporter of more frequent oil changes. Recently, however, when I bought the oil, there was an LM rinse in the promo, so I bought it. Auto 1.6HDI 270kkm. In addition to changing the oil and rinsing, the filters were replaced: fuel - it was rotten, it broke up after dismantling, air - replaced a long time ago 40kkm.
Effect: average fuel consumption dropped from 6.9l / 100km to 6.2l / 100km. I am not able to say what caused such a change, maybe an air filter + a rinse, or maybe just an air filter?

Some mechanics recommend adding 0.5l of diesel fuel. It was supposed to wash out effectively. I use dedicated preparations

tomekszym wrote:

Effect: average fuel consumption dropped from 6.9l / 100km to 6.2l / 100km. I am not able to say what caused such a change, maybe an air filter + a rinse, or maybe just an air filter?

Definitely an air filter, not oil or cleaning the traces of the old one.

Regards!

I did scrubbing several times in different engines. I have never noticed a higher oil consumption or more fuel consumption.

I read a lot about rinses, but I wanted to ask if any of you know or have used TEC 2000? I do not know this rinse, and my mechanic recommended using it because it collects carbon deposits from the engine well. I don't know what to answer him in total.

PawelPawel1234321 wrote:

I read a lot about rinses, but I wanted to ask if any of you know or have used TEC 2000? I do not know this rinse, and my mechanic recommended using it because it collects carbon deposits from the engine well. I don't know what to answer him in total.

Go ahead, my mechanic used it on my 2.3 vr5, because it was eating oil, after rinsing it was done over 500 km and nothing was lost, and the oil itself did not even change the color. When he was doing the rinse, the car started for 30 minutes, left it for the whole night, poured out the oil in the morning, poured a new one, started it for 30 minutes and replaced it with the right one.

the main ingredient of the rinse is simply kerosene.
It has always been done in such a way that when the engine was terribly busy, e.g. in a toddler or a large Fiat, the candles were unscrewed, the pistons were turned by turning the shaft halfway, poured this kerosene into the cylinders and left for the night, and even better for weekend. and then you use a starter without candles to catch everything that is left (you can suck up with a syringe with a hose) and then fire, let it be a dozen or so minutes at slow speed to warm up, then drain the old oil and replace the oil filter and pour new oil THIS MANUFACTURER RECOMMENDS, not any 15w40 "because it's an old engine" .... 15w40 is crap, butter and slime

Often such a rinse helps if seized rings are a problem
However, it will not help with scratches on the cylinders or worn valve seals (and too large valve clearances in the guides)
and this will not work without disassembling the engine. For this, the rinse helped some, and not others

You can rinse the engine with clean kerosene, most rinses have it as a base with some additives. Recently, during the change, I left about a liter of oil in the engine, I added to the state of heating oil, then driving with 15km, pouring everything new filter and Vavoline 5w50 oil is ok, but I know that the valve seals let the oil go out in the morning, the first firing leaves a cloud.

I am asking why you dilute the oil with kerosene or another solvent and why rinse the engine?

michal_rybka wrote:

.... and pour new oil. WHICH MANUFACTURER RECOMMENDS, and not any 15w40 "because it's an old engine" .... 15w40 is crap, butter and snot

Professional advice is the best.
Well, the manufacturer just says (by writing it in the vehicle's manual), that 15W40 is supposed to be there:

Scan from manual:

Olej P..png (392.77 kB)You must be logged in to download this attachment.

Great, thanks for your help Maybe they are not really bad, I will use it and see how it works for me

gibon139 wrote:

You can flush the engine with pure kerosene, most rinses have it as a base with some additives. I recently left about a liter of oil in the engine during the change myself, I added fuel oil to the level, after that driving with 15 km, the new filter and the valvoline 5w50 oil are ok, but I know that the valve seals release oil in the morning, the first start releases a cloud.

The composition of the rinses is not based on kerosene, it is a different fraction only on the so-called white spirit (common name, having nothing to do with lacquer) This gasoline contains a number of solvents, including benzene, toluene and similar, and hydrocarbons of the c7,8,10,13 type .
These are the so-called post-cracking residues. They have the ability to dissolve carbon deposits and are safe for rubber seals. They dissolve carbon sintered (high temperatures and poor oil) rings ... which return to the factory level of piston sealing. Then it uses less oil. For me x3 less and it returns to almost factory compression.
I use Militec or Ceramizer after the rinse and oil change. There is an increase in power in nM and in HP! For me, about 15kM more (measured from the computer), the engine is quieter, it spins great.
It is worth adding in a spray through the air intake specifics cleaning the turbine ...

I tested the flush in the old Felicja 1.3 quite badly neglected engine (years on mineral plus rarely replaced). . TEC2000 rinse went. The nagar effect was still there. You can scrape with a screwdriver. When I took the oil pan off while doing the timing, there was still a lot of debris in the pan. The carbon deposit was still baked on everything maybe less loose sludge. Flushing does nothing for me once the engine is clogged. It's better to remove the bowl and clean it together with the dragon strainer and add the few dozen zlotys and buy some better oil.

I've heard opinions that new engines flushed at each replacement is a good idea.
Old blues - this is not 100% recommended as it depends on many factors.

New engines work on modern oils that have washing additives and do not need flushing. Two that new engines with oil pumps with variable capacity can seize on normal oil, let alone diluted with rinse. As for me, I put them on the shelf with all ceramizers, magic sealants and a motor-driver. Because they have a common feature, they are used when it is already bad and one hopes that a can of the drug will replace the renovation for a thousand - several thousand zlotys.

modern (read: 20 years old) engines drive much differently than those old engines that are usually thought of in the context of old (read: beetle, DFa, toddler polonaise...)
in today's engines, I noticed that here mainly the rings get carbon deposited so badly that they do not move at all, and the valve guides and sealers jam in the heads.
and in the old ones, the pistons wiped terribly, the rings rubbed off, cracked, but rather did not burn with carbon deposits, and the heads were practically indestructible, so it's a completely different wear

and on these baked rings, theoretically, various rinses should help ... but my experience shows that they do not help at all, in general, after adding the rinse, yes, more oil will flow and the new oil is prettier and cleaner, but basically nothing else

zonki z18xe in Zafira, none of the magical specifics I tested helped: rinses, ceramizers, ceratecs, MoSy, kerosene for candles did not help either, it continued to smoke and every 2 weeks half a liter of oil had to be added, although maybe these treatments extended its life for half a year agonie, but if you add it all up + the cost of the oil that he ate, then if nothing comes out that I would have a second good engine for free (which I bought for PLN 700) and after switching it just drives and only checks every month, because I don't add anything you have to, and you don't have to be afraid of the police that the evidence will be taken away

then, out of curiosity, I dismantled this dead engine and I will say that in general everything looked good, probably if you honed the cylinders even with a hand hone on a drill, soak and clean the rings and grooves, replace at least the oil rings (they were practically flat without these 2 more protruding edges )
and probably if you made a head, it probably wouldn't eat oil and it would still work
only that it's a lot of work and even making a comprehensive head is also at least PLN 500 and without the certainty of the success of the entire project, it's still not worth it if you can buy a functional engine for about PLN 500-1000
(I bought the engine, of course, as always, I went to the guy who had it in the car, I measured the compression, fired it up, warmed it up, drove it and after finding out that it works nicely, doesn't smoke, doesn't boil, we unscrewed it and bought it)

That is, he did not get nagar and blocked the rings, and normally the rings clashed, started to take oil and additionally baked them. So the rinse, even if it released them, would not work because they had worn off. Opel x14xe - x18xe required replacement of at least rings after 200,000 -300,000 km depending on the driving style and frequency of car use (the higher the daily mileage and the frequency of driving, the more). I know some that even 150,000 km did not last and the oil rings (the last one) were so worn that the piston could be inserted into the cylinder without squeezing them. It is interesting that the others were quite ok and the engine had compression above qualifying it for renovation and consumed 1 liter per 500-600 km (half or a liter of oil every refueling. As in 2T

nautulicus wrote:

gibon139 wrote:

You can flush the engine with pure kerosene, most rinses have it as a base with some additives. I recently left about a liter of oil in the engine during the change myself, I added fuel oil to the level, after that driving with 15 km, the new filter and the vavoline 5w50 oil are ok, but I know that the valve seals release oil in the morning, the first start releases a cloud.

The composition of the rinses is not based on kerosene, it is a different fraction only on the so-called white spirit (common name, having nothing to do with lacquer) This gasoline contains a number of solvents, including benzene, toluene and similar, and hydrocarbons of the c7,8,10,13 type .
These are the so-called post-cracing residues. They have the ability to dissolve carbon deposits and are safe for rubber seals. They dissolve carbon sintered (high temperatures and poor oil) rings ... which return to the factory level of piston sealing. Then it uses less oil. For me x3 less and it returns to almost factory compression.
I use Militec or Ceramizer after the rinse and oil change. There is an increase in power in nM and in HP! For me, about 15kM more (measured from the computer), the engine is quieter, it spins great.
It is worth adding in a spray through the air intake specifics cleaning the turbine ...

Not kerosene but white spirit? Definitely?
Then try to wash the clogged head with even ordinary diesel oil and white spirit. You will only see which agent will remove the nagar. Gasoline is good for old lighters.

sigwa18: so you're saying that the head doesn't jam that much, only mainly those rings in ecoteks?
because it also eats a lot of oil for me Astra F x16xe but I can't find a good engine for reasonable money and also with the possibility of trying it, not on a pallet that lies somewhere for a few years and before pulling it was probably fired only for a moment, then maybe I would just rehoned the bushings and replaced the rings and it would be? I wonder how much the rings cost for this ... once to the Big Fiat, in Agrom for PLN 35 there was a set of rings as in DFie I exchanged :)

its mileage is, of course, "negotiable" on the odometer, like 260,000 but it's not possible, because I already replaced the automatic gearbox and getting an Aisin AF13 is almost impossible, they do 500,000 without a problem, that's how much this Asterka probably had a few before crossing the border years ago, but a health and station wagon with gas, I love this car
I'm afraid, however, that the bushings may be so egg-shaped that new rings will prove to be a (expensive and time-consuming) nail in the coffin

I wonder why these rings don't get stuck in the 8-valve versions of these engines, after all, the bottom is the same, only the head is different, basically I have a good C16NZ engine (I got it from a friend who dismantled a rotten Astra) and you could fold the bottom from it with my head, I would like to throw this ecotek out at all and put on a normal C16NZ, I even have a bundle for it, in a manual gearbox it's no problem, I've done it before, but with an automatic it probably won't get along with this manual comp and all the work in pi. ...

atrix55: I wash the dirty "head" or all other parts with ordinary 95 petrol because it is relatively cheap and cleans well, I haven't tried kerosene to be honest, because I feel sorry for it

For example, because there is a different compression ratio in 8V and that 8V has no reason to spin over 3500-4000 RPM because it is only louder and there is no power. Efficient 16V at 4000 has maximum torque and calmly goes to 5000 -6000 rpm. The three rings for c16nz are 1.2, 1.5 and 3.0 thick, where x16xe is 1.2, 1.5 and 2.5. So the last oil smaller / thinner in 16V.

Buying an engine for an Opel 16V engine from a pallet ends with its renovation anyway. Just like buying used injectors or TDI pumps. Maybe when the engine was put on a pallet, it was good and did not burn oil. But after months/years on the pallet, the cylinders get a rusty coating and the first firing removes this coating, plus their wear (used engine, usually 150,000 km or more) finishes the oil rings and you return to the starting point.