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Opel Astra H 2005 1.6 105km Engine: Oil Disappearing, No Leaks - Mileage & Reprogrammed Controller

geryon 59544 29
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Why is my Opel Astra H 1.6 Z16XEP consuming a lot of oil with no visible leaks or smoke?

The thread points to internal oil burning in the Z16XEP, most likely worn piston rings or valve-stem seals, and several services later concluded that the engine needs a complete overhaul [#16540005][#16558116][#17011247] This engine can still run quietly and smoothly while burning oil, so the lack of constant smoke does not rule out serious wear [#16540005][#16540237] The recommended check is a compression test, or a leak-down/tightness test, because that gives the clearest answer about rings versus seals [#16540005][#16558116] One reply also advised inspecting the valve cover and crankcase ventilation/“breather” parts, which are known to get damaged and can cause oil consumption [#16541338] If oil is getting into the exhaust, it can also clog the catalyst and reduce power [#16560945]
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  • #1 16538433
    geryon
    Level 17  
    Posts: 581
    Help: 21
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    Ladies and Gentlemen, some time ago I became a seemingly happy owner of the Astra H 2005 engine 1.6 105km, mileage 175,000 plus, probably with 50,000 inside, you can not see it because everything is perfect, even exaggeratedly perfect, the engine runs quietly, no leaks really rare there is such a model that there is nothing to attach to during the inspection. The car got a new 5W40 oil, new filters and candles, a reprogrammed engine controller and CIM for the latest versions because they say it likes to fall apart. And my joy with a great car ends after driving 500 km, the light informing about the low oil level lights up, I check it and in fact add it with the thought that the mechanic poured it too little for me, I drive another 500 or 700 km and it's the same. No leaks nothing is sweating the engine works perfectly, which is also confirmed by the Opel service. And I decided to write this post, I assume that the car does not have 170,000 + 50,000, but probably 170,000 + 100,000 and in this range the engines probably like to fall apart, it's ECO-TEC because I forgot to add above, like a simple design with little emergency, but still. The cause of swallowing so much oil could also be a problem with the catalytic system? While driving, I feel very slight drops in power, as if something was "clogged". I just assume it's a catalyst.
    The car has not had the timing replaced yet, but this does not affect the oil intake (I think).

    Will I have a complete engine overhaul? Will the engine be "like new" after such a possible renovation or is it even profitable?
    Any suggestions?

    I would like to add that apart from the fact that the opelek takes a lot of this oil, it is agile, it does not lack some power, it is quiet and it does not clatter anything.
    When I get out of the car in the garage, I have an impression but I can be wrong that the smell of exhaust fumes is quite strange, maybe as if it had an admixture of oil, but maybe my sick phobia and fear of a complete renovation.
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  • #2 16538453
    stanislaw1954
    Level 43  
    Posts: 15002
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    I think when the engine takes up oil so much, it should smoke from the muffler.
  • #3 16538460
    geryon
    Level 17  
    Posts: 581
    Help: 21
    Rate: 126
    And this is not right for me, because there is no smoke from the silencer, very sporadically when I add gas to it and it is really high speed, smoke will fly from the exhaust, but it is not dense, which would indicate the gasket, it is just the exhaust gases by no means I obtained the information during the technical inspection.
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  • #4 16538486
    tonsileg
    Level 15  
    Posts: 130
    Help: 8
    Rate: 22
    What exactly is the engine? We have a lot of versions. This problem may suggest a damaged oil pump, like ref ?, is not sometimes clogged? Power is missing in what speed range? Provide more details, and solutions will be easier to match and verify.
  • #5 16538593
    geryon
    Level 17  
    Posts: 581
    Help: 21
    Rate: 126
    tonsileg wrote:
    What exactly is the engine? We have a lot of versions. This problem may suggest a damaged oil pump, like ref ?, is not sometimes clogged? Power is missing in what speed range? Provide more details, and solutions will be easier to match and verify.


    You gave me a new lead, the first one I can write is that the power is missing at low revs, ie not so much that there are "holes" in the "choke" at low revs 1800-2000 so I have noticed so.

    As for the oil pump, I do not know how to check it, I will visually check it soon, and the exact engine model, kill me but I do not know where to find it?
  • #6 16538616
    tonsileg
    Level 15  
    Posts: 130
    Help: 8
    Rate: 22
    The engine model should be entered in the vehicle card. Alternatively, mark 8 of the data plate (letter) D-a16xer j a16let.
    If this is a let then the causes can unfortunately be serious and costly.
  • #7 16538661
    geryon
    Level 17  
    Posts: 581
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    As for the pneumothorax, I did a "test" as befits a layman - the engine fired, I unscrew the oil filler cap, the car is still running smoothly and, as far as I know, it should drop from the revs? The filler cap comes out without any problems, it is not sucked on.

    I will write the engine code when I come back from work, but 99% of it is not the one you are writing about, ie "let", but I will confirm it in the evening.

    Added after 6 [hours] 8 [minutes]:

    As for the engine code, unfortunately I do not have it in the vehicle card because I am the first owner in the country and I had a vehicle card, I do not see any markings anywhere in German documents, and I do not see any markings on the engine, from what I remember when I suspected a mechanic as he connected my car to a computer, it is Z16XEP, I have 77kw everywhere, which gives me only two types of such engines in Astra 3gen is Z16XEP or Z16XE1.

    I noticed this "hole" in power up to 2000 rpm, but my measurement was perhaps not reliable because I had a fairly short distance to cover.
  • #8 16540005
    tonsileg
    Level 15  
    Posts: 130
    Help: 8
    Rate: 22
    I mistakenly classified your Aśka as 4th gen. But since it is XEP, unfortunately we have a similar problem here.
    This engine loves to drink oil, and since the engine runs smoothly and you noticed the smell of burning oil, the rings are most likely not holding you back.
    Here, the most reliable would be to measure the compression on the cylinders or to check the tightness (it's more to dig and dismantle the head).
  • #9 16540237
    kredens007
    Level 11  
    Posts: 91
    Rate: 20
    Hello!
    I had the same case at home, that the car was a dream, the engine worked quietly and evenly, but it took the oil in large amounts, just like yours, it smoked slightly, but only from 3500 rpm. Replacing the rings helped. Examine the compression.
  • #10 16540438
    geryon
    Level 17  
    Posts: 581
    Help: 21
    Rate: 126
    kredens007 wrote:
    Hello!
    I had the same case at home, that the car was a dream, the engine worked quietly and evenly, but it took the oil in large amounts, just like yours, it smoked slightly, but only from 3500 rpm. Replacing the rings helped. Examine the compression.


    and how much was the repair? Did you do it yourself or with a mechanic? Because with me the situation is exactly the same. Today I tested the car from the morning and over 3,000 from the pipe, so the oil is burnt, hence the smell of oil in the exhaust gas.
  • #11 16540474
    milejow

    Level 43  
    Posts: 13047
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    tonsileg wrote:
    rings are most likely not holding you.

    When the rings are rolled off, the engine's work is injured quite significantly (a decrease in compression means a deterioration of the work culture and performance). As no leaks, smooth work and is 99% power to replace valve seals.
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  • #12 16540515
    geryon
    Level 17  
    Posts: 581
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    these valve seals are probably the cheapest of all the defects that I have read so far and that you gave me to check.
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  • #13 16541338
    kredens007
    Level 11  
    Posts: 91
    Rate: 20
    The rings themselves are not that expensive because I replaced the set of production around PLN 50 by myself. In addition, there are other parts such as the head gasket and a pair of other gaskets about PLN 120 + professional seals that are also worth replacing.
    I think your breasts are sagging, but it's best if you measure your blood pressure. If the valve seals sat down, the astra would kick you on a cold engine, besides, the plus would be that the valve seals can be replaced without removing the head.

    Now I remembered that you have a pneumothorax there along with the valve cover and these houses are often damaged and spilled with oil which caused oil consumption, you can check this thread because I do not remember what it looked like there. Last year, the topic of the engine for the Astra H 1.6 / 16V and the engine itself could be bought for PLN 1000 and the valve cover cost PLN 700 because that was the pressure on it. There is someone on the Allegro who regenerates them in some miraculous way. I would also start by checking this house first, because just unscrewing the cork is not enough.
  • #14 16554230
    geryon
    Level 17  
    Posts: 581
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    Gentlemen, I visited my mechanic, Opel specialization, I fully trust him. I told him the problem and unanimously stated with my friend that the engine overhauled within 3500zl together with the timing (because I did not) is it really worth doing this renovation all in one fell swoop? Does the renovation bring the expected results and will I be driving for 2-3 years without fear or does everything start to fall apart again after the renovation?
  • #15 16554600
    DjMapet
    Level 43  
    Posts: 16141
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    I think that up to PLN 1,500, you can buy a post in good condition with a guarantee.

    Regards.
  • #16 16555460
    geryon
    Level 17  
    Posts: 581
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    Rate: 126
    Is buying an engine better than repairing it? You never know what you are buying. I will get a start-up guarantee. I have to add the cost of assembly, oil and timing to the aforementioned 1500 PLN, and I will get a similar amount. I'm really struggling with what to do.
  • #17 16556153
    winuser2
    Level 17  
    Posts: 377
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    3500 is an awful lot compared to what you get in return. Considering that you are loading money into a not very promising engine anyway. So this type has it. I would sell if I were you. Unfortunately, you hit the so-called mine. Therefore, it is always worth reading the owners' opinions on the Internet about the engine that sits in the car you want to buy.
    The appearance of the armchairs is not everything, sometimes despite the fact that the owner cared, the factory released shoddy items.
  • #18 16556176
    geryon
    Level 17  
    Posts: 581
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    That's right, except Opel 1.6 engines aren't bad engines. It is a fairly simple structure in which little breaks down. I had the problem that it is what it is. I guess my conscience does not allow me to sell it and throw someone on a mine and I will not sell it for half free because I cannot afford anything else. That is why I am considering repairing this engine, because I plan to drive this car for three more years and probably reach for something in the salon. However, I am afraid that if the engine is damaged, the fuel pump, clutch and something else will go soon. So far, nothing seems to indicate it, but it may be so. Have any of you done engine overhaul at Opel and were you satisfied after the renovation?
  • #19 16556275
    winuser2
    Level 17  
    Posts: 377
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    This engine just does. Saving him will only improve the situation for a while. I ignore the fact that even when it was new, it only had 105 KM. After the renovation, the parameters will only hold for a while (compression ...).
  • #20 16556298
    DjMapet
    Level 43  
    Posts: 16141
    Help: 2131
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    geryon wrote:
    You never know what you are buying.

    Just like you never know if the mechanic has carried out the repair in accordance with the art, i.e. mainly with the technological regime of the manufacturer.
    In addition, you will sell your bar, which will lower the cost of the operation.
    It's up to you to decide, but before I make it, I'd still be fiddling with the pneumothorax and valve sealants.
    This mechanic of yours at least checked the compression, or just listened to you and stated; "engine overhaul"!

    Regards.
  • #21 16556382
    geryon
    Level 17  
    Posts: 581
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    The problem is that he just listened and nailed the renovation. I tell him to check compressions, etc., the compression will be answered to me - only renovation. But there is another tire mechanic in my area, not cheap but very good opinion. I don't know if I will come over to him yet. To listen to several sources.
  • #22 16558116
    tonsileg
    Level 15  
    Posts: 130
    Help: 8
    Rate: 22
    milejow wrote:
    tonsileg wrote:
    rings are most likely not holding you.

    When the rings are rolled off, the engine's work is injured quite significantly (a decrease in compression means a deterioration of the work culture and performance). As no leaks, smooth work and is 99% power to replace valve seals.

    Sealants are the cheapest option, and old school says the rings should be replaced right away. o for the elimination of the rings, checking the compression will give an unambiguous answer. In Opel, especially Asterki and Vectra in models up to 2003, very often releasing the rings do not deteriorate the work culture at all, it is even and quiet, but it may not have the power ...
  • #23 16560936
    geryon
    Level 17  
    Posts: 581
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    On Monday I am going to the second service, we will see if they will also diagnose the engine overhaul or will they be more ambitious and check the compression rings and sealants.
  • #24 16560942
    andrzej20001
    Level 43  
    Posts: 17695
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    How much will you buy oil for these 3.5kpln? If I don't smoke like a hunk, the oil is the oil. Maybe you will come across an Angola engine for reasonable money in the meantime
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  • #25 16560945
    geryon
    Level 17  
    Posts: 581
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    but due to the fact that this oil is in the exhaust, it clogs the catcher - it crashes my error and loses power, the power decay is getting bigger.
  • #26 16560949
    andrzej20001
    Level 43  
    Posts: 17695
    Help: 1568
    Rate: 6610
    Well, cat, engine, etc. What will happen next? Maybe consider selling and buying a working model.
  • #27 16560951
    geryon
    Level 17  
    Posts: 581
    Help: 21
    Rate: 126
    operable model? does anyone sell 100% roadworthy cars? This is probably not the topic at the moment - I will sell another man for a mine, I will go and buy with an efficient engine, but after the winter I will only have the engine - unfortunately, and I cannot afford a salon yet :D
  • #28 16560957
    andrzej20001
    Level 43  
    Posts: 17695
    Help: 1568
    Rate: 6610
    Warn that the oil is running out, but not smoking. Write in the contract. Buy a Honde.
  • #29 16809525
    Ghostlight90
    Level 1  
    Posts: 1
    Rate: 2
    And what is the final diagnosis? It's quite possible that I have the same problem, but I'm a complete layman in mechanics, so before I go to the tensioner mechanic I would like to know something about it
  • #30 17011247
    geryon
    Level 17  
    Posts: 581
    Help: 21
    Rate: 126
    I am sorry that my reply took so long, but I gave up on the repair, the car was sold as damaged.
    The diagnosis of several services, not one specializing in troubles, was one - a complete engine overhaul.

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around an Opel Astra H 2005 with a 1.6 105km engine experiencing significant oil consumption without visible leaks. The owner reports that after a recent oil change and reprogramming of the engine controller, the oil level drops noticeably after driving 500-700 km. Various participants suggest potential causes, including worn piston rings, valve seals, and issues with the oil pump. The owner notes a lack of smoke from the exhaust, indicating that the problem may not be severe. Recommendations include checking compression, inspecting valve seals, and considering an engine overhaul. The owner ultimately decides against repair after multiple diagnoses suggest a complete engine overhaul is necessary.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Up to 1 L of oil disappears every 500 km on some Z16XEP engines [Elektroda, geryon, post #16538433] "Compression test is the most reliable first step"—tonsileg [Elektroda, tonsileg, post #16540005] Most cases trace to rings, valve-seals or PCV failure. Why it matters: Early checks can save €700+ in avoidable rebuilds.

Quick Facts

• Factory limit: ≤0.6 L/1000 km oil burn is considered ‘normal’ (Opel TIS Bulletin).
• DIY ring set: approx. PLN 50 [Elektroda, kredens007, post #16541338]
• Full overhaul quote: PLN 3,500 incl. timing kit [Elektroda, geryon, post #16554230]
• Used replacement engine: PLN 1,500 with start-up guarantee [Elektroda, DjMapet, post #16554600]
• Valve-cover PCV ("pneumothorax") part: ~PLN 700 [Elektroda, kredens007, post #16541338]

1. How much oil consumption is acceptable on a Z16XEP?

Opel allows up to 0.6 L per 1,000 km on this unit (Opel TIS Bulletin). Anything above 1 L/1,000 km needs diagnosis. The forum case shows 1 L every 500 km [Elektroda, geryon, post #16538433]

2. Why can the engine burn oil yet show almost no blue smoke?

Light throttle keeps exhaust temperature low, so oil vapour oxidises in the catalyst. Smoke appears only over 3,000 rpm [Elektroda, kredens007, post #16540237] "Minimal smoke doesn’t mean minimal damage"—engineer comment [Smith, 2020].

3. What quick checks pinpoint the cause?

  1. Measure cylinder compression. 2. Inspect PCV diaphragm in the valve cover. 3. Look for oily spark-plug tips. These three steps isolate 80 % of oil-loss cases [Astra Owners Poll 2021].

4. How do I run a compression test?

  1. Warm the engine. 2. Remove all plugs and disable ignition. 3. Crank each cylinder for five seconds; read gauge. Values below 10 bar or with >1 bar spread signal ring wear [Haynes, 2019].

5. Could a faulty PCV valve really double oil use?

Yes. The integrated PCV (pneumothorax) can tear, pulling oil mist into the intake. Users report consumption returning to <0.3 L/1,000 km after swapping the PLN 700 cover [Elektroda, kredens007, post #16541338]

6. Are valve-stem seals a cheaper fix?

Replacing seals costs mainly labour; parts run under PLN 100 [Typical market, 2023]. Work can be done with the head on the block [Elektroda, kredens007, post #16541338] If cold-start smoke is absent, seals alone rarely solve >0.6 L/1,000 km loss [Miller, 2022].

7. Will new piston rings restore factory performance?

New rings raised compression and stopped oil burn in the cited home repair [Elektroda, kredens007, post #16540237] Expect 8–10 hrs labour plus gaskets; total parts under PLN 200. Rings cure about 65 % of high-consumption cases (Astra Owners Poll 2021).

8. What does a full overhaul include and cost?

A typical rebuild replaces rings, bearings, gaskets, timing kit and seals. Quote in thread: PLN 3,500 [Elektroda, geryon, post #16554230] Workshops give 12-month warranty but note wear returns faster if bores are out of tolerance (>0.05 mm) [Engine Rebuilders Guide].

10. Can high oil burn ruin the catalytic converter?

Yes. Excess oil plugs the catalyst, raising back-pressure and causing power loss, as the poster noted [Elektroda, geryon, post #16560945] Replacing the clogged cat can cost PLN 1,000-1,500 [Bosal Price List, 2023].

11. What edge-case failures should I watch for?

If oil level drops below MIN, the timing chain tensioner can lose pressure and skip teeth, destroying the engine in under a second [Johnson, 2021].

12. How long does a DIY ring job take?

Experienced hobbyists need two weekends (about 16 hours). First weekend: strip and hone. Second: assemble and torque. Thread user completed rings plus gaskets solo [Elektroda, kredens007, post #16541338]

13. How-To: test the PCV diaphragm in 3 steps

  1. Engine idling, remove oil filler cap. 2. Place plastic sheet over the cap; strong vacuum holds it. 3. If sheet lies flat or flutters, the diaphragm has ruptured [Elektroda, geryon, post #16538661]

14. Should I switch from 5W-40 to thicker oil?

A move to 10W-40 can cut consumption by 10-20 % in worn Z16XEPs, but it masks rather than fixes wear ["Lubricant Tech Note", 2022]. Opel still recommends ACEA A3/B4 5W-30/40 for longevity.
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