15-Year-Old Electric Boiler 50L Not Heating Water - LED Light Off, Click Sound When Turning On/Off

Hello, I am asking for help and hints. Yesterday suddenly, without any breakdowns at home, my 15-year-old electric boiler 50l (I do not know what brand - there is no visible label) stopped heating the water and the lamp stopped glowing. When turning the lamp housing (temperature setting), you hear a "click" when turned on and off, but the lamp is off and the boiler does not heat ... What can it be? Is such a 15-year-old boiler worth repairing at all? Thanks in advance for your advice

Well, the heater said enough , neonka is plugged into a circuit closed by a heater and a thermostat. From your description it appears that the thermostat is responding, but there is also a possibility that its contacts just burned out (15 years is a long time). The meter in the handle and needs to check the transitions on the thermostat and heater. You will get a 1000W heater in the vicinity of PLN 30 (I bought a stainless steel one last year) and a similar thermostat. Rather it is worth repairing, unless you have any boiler leaks.

- check if there is a power supply (simple if connected to the socket)
- check if the safety thermostat has not worked - press the reset button on it (it is necessary to remove the appropriate cover from the boiler)

jdubowski wrote:

- check if there is a power supply (simple if connected to the socket)
- check if the safety thermostat has not worked - press the reset button on it (it is necessary to remove the appropriate cover from the boiler)

At the beginning, I would suggest draining the water from the boiler and, at point 2, disconnecting it from the mains.

As for the repair, everything has been said above, and whether it will pay off - if it is only an electrical repair (the costs are not that high) it will pay off, but if it leaks, the repair is no longer profitable.

A new note - why do you ask your friend to release the water, everything can be checked without draining the water.

The boiler looks very good from the outside, does not rust anywhere and so far has been working flawlessly. Only next year I plan a complete renovation of the bathroom (this one still remembers the times of Gierek) and now I have to renovate the kitchen so I did not plan to spend a new boiler. Today I will try to remove the cover and check the cables with a meter. The socket is fine, I have already checked it. By the way, does it matter for the boiler that there is no grounding in this socket? I know that I can connect the ground pin to zero, but can this fact affect the heater somehow? Is the thermostat? I understand that if you hear this click when turning this lamp housing (there is a + and - sign for setting the temperature and turning it on), the thermostat works like this ??

Added after 2 [minutes]:

I will add that the boiler is not leaking. At least there are no such signs ...

The thermostat responds correctly, but it is not known if its electrical contacts are functional and conductive as they should, so you should also check it with a meter.

Oh, and what do I need in the event of a heater failure to buy it? in the sense of what data do I need? Are they universal ?? I have repaired various things at home by myself, so I'm not a total leg, but I haven't had to open the boiler yet: /

Added after 1 [minutes]:

Ie. how to check it with a meter? Want to be plugged in, turned to "on" and check all cables?

Thread size, (probably M12) its power, and length / shape. It's safest to open and see. Just don't forget, as a colleague wrote above, disconnect the power and pour out the water

sosarek wrote:

jdubowski wrote:

- check if there is a power supply (simple if connected to the socket)
- check if the safety thermostat has not worked - press the reset button on it (it is necessary to remove the appropriate cover from the boiler)

At the beginning, I would suggest draining the water from the boiler and, at point 2, disconnecting it from the mains.

Buddy, why drain the water?

Without water, the heater can be hurt.

The principle of the boiler is quite simple.


this should help with diagnosis.

Send a friend a photo of this boiler after removing the thermoregulator housing - the point is to see the heater connection, thermostat, etc., in other words: from the bottom.

After so many questions and obvious answers, I advise you to call an electrician, he will handle it and repair it in a few minutes or tell you what to do. It will be safer this way. The costs will not be high.

Let's give the author of the post a chance. For us, it's a handheld multimeter, 10 minutes of work (with spinning up) and we know what's going on. Maybe when we get a photo, we can draw arrows where to measure and we will do it remotely ...

a_jablon wrote:

Buddy, why drain the water?

For example, if it is necessary to remove it from the wall in order to get to the elements, it will be much lighter and the water will not flood the entire floor for the Author.
The topic of boilers was discussed in an episode of "Usterki". Apart from that, water and electricity are a rather poor connection ...

sosarek wrote:

Apart from that, water and electricity are a rather poor connection ...

Therefore, the use of electric heaters for water was prohibited ... Hehehehe

@a_jablon I did not mean the heater itself, but the elements of the installation inside the boiler - after so many years no one knows what the condition of the connectors, wiring insulation, etc. are - it is probably obvious. No matter what you do - the main rule is to be extremely careful. As the saying goes, "God guards the guarded".

My gentlemen, give me a chance to prove myself. So far, I have dealt with boilers only for hanging and connecting, not repairs. Today I will buy the meter and check it in the evening. I also dealt with the flow more than once. I also want to learn something. If I find that it exceeds my skills, I will call a specialist, but then I will not learn much ...

Cheek boy :)

We are waiting ...

But you don't need to drain the water to check the connectors or connections.

But to remove the heater, yes ... The question was also about what parameters the heater should have.

Added after 43 [minutes]:

Should I also unscrew this album? Do I have to drain the water for this?

Added after 53 [minutes]:

Ok, I already know that by turning this plate I will pull out the heater and the water will come out with it, so you have to pour it earlier. Wow, like a child in a sandbox, fascinated by rakes :D

Added after 4 [hours] 50 [minutes]:

The voltage on the 232V cables, so ok. The thermostat is the one with the white handle? Where to measure it, which contacts? Cables look good everywhere. You can't see any burns or damages ...

jakob1984 wrote:

Should I also unscrew this album? Do I have to drain the water for this?

Do not unscrew the plate, because the heater is rather functional (if the heater was damaged, the problem would appear in the lamp lighting up and no water heating).

Dismantle the thermostat - it should slide off the heater contacts when pulled down (check if the safety latch is not visible). The thermostat sensor should slide out of the sheath in the plate.
After dismantling the thermostat, you can make sure that the heater is in working order (with an ohmmeter), and the thermostat will probably be replaced - take it to the store using the pattern (there are various mechanical solutions).

I understand that for this photo of the thermostat you do not need to drain the water, right? Is the thermostat a white knob or an entire brown disc?

jakob1984 wrote:

I understand that for this photo of the thermostat you do not need to drain the water, right?

There's no need to.

jakob1984 wrote:

Is the thermostat a white knob or an entire brown disc?

The whole puck.

jakob1984 wrote:

The socket is fine, I have already checked it. By the way, does it matter for the boiler that there is no grounding in this socket? I know I can make the ground pin connection to zero but can this fact somehow affect the heater ?? Is the thermostat?

The socket is not okay! Unfortunately, schools do not teach this - it is a pity that the cable with a plug under the protection pin can only be plugged into a socket with a PE protection pin connected.

jakob1984 wrote:

If I find that it exceeds my skills, I will call a specialist, but then I will not learn much ...

Call a professional now, because you or someone else will be shocked by the electricity! I suspect that you are unfamiliar with the issue of network systems, so for your sake, do not bridge anything, just invite a competent person who will find the network system on the spot and make the right decision on a possible reset - in the most important matter for you - electric shock protection. A boiler fault is a piece of cake compared to no electric shock protection!

a_jablon wrote:

Cheek boy

You are all "guts" because none of you paid any attention to it. Only Jdubowski knows what he is writing about. :|


Edit.

Quote:

Is the message helpful? -twenty

If there is damage to the insulation of the device or the so-called short circuit to the housing and the protective conductor shown in the photo will not be connected to the protective conductor of the installation (the protective pin in the socket), the mains voltage (230V) will appear on the housing and the protection will almost certainly not switch off. This means that if someone touches the housing, he can lose his life, and colleagues click - (minus) as a redundant, harmful, misleading answer. Congratulations, and sympathize with the author of the topic ...

Hmmm ... I took off the thermostat yesterday, checked it with a meter and nothing to replace for sure. By the way, I took off the lamp - burned. Unfortunately, I had to buy this bulb and solder it because I couldn't find all the lamps anywhere. But cool, I already have a good bulb. I ordered the thermostat yesterday and I have to pick it up today. I checked the heater with an ohmmeter and it looks good. I could pour out the water and check it carefully, but I'm afraid that after 15 years of using the boiler, half of the tank is stone and when I move the gasket, the costs will increase so much that it will not be profitable to repair it. If installing a new thermostat and a new bulb helps, the matter is over, if not, I will take the whole thing apart ...

As for bridging, I talked to more than one electrician who advised me on this solution themselves ....

jakob1984 wrote:

As for bridging, I talked to more than one electrician who advised me on this solution themselves ....

In the case of an old installation:
1. Make sure that the network system in which the installation works works in the TN system - it is not possible to check it from a distance.
2. Check the short circuit loop impedance in the socket before a possible "zeroing" - it is not possible to check it from a distance.
3. These were not electricians, but general knowledge enthusiasts, or people for whom time stopped some 20 years ago.

Your case and your life ... :|

Ps. When it comes to checking the heater, it is enough to check with Dietz pincers whether it is overloaded.

Ps.1 Do not be afraid of clicking "minus" -> I assure you that users will be referred to this topic as a blatant example of ignoring the protection against electric shock (human life), in the section where supposedly more advanced "beginners" answer the questions asked. .


Regards.

Thank you for the warning

Added after 2 [hours] 28 [minutes]:

And it worked. I replaced the thermostat and the bulb and it works. Thank you for the advice and suggestions above