[Solved] Philips SWB50 Wireless Subwoofer: Upgrading & Optimizing Performance for TV Audio Support

Hi

The sub mentioned in the topic was given to me as a freebie for my TV. For half a year it was lying unused, because the TV software is basically a collection of bugs and the TV did not feel like making a connection. After a recent upgrade the connection to the sub was able to be established and I decided to see if it was worth using it at all. I say straight away that I wasn't expecting a bump in the liver from this device. He's only there to assist the TV speakers in reproducing low tones when listening to a normal programme not too loudly. For movies and music I have an external amplifier with decent speakers.

After pairing the sub with the TV the former started to make some sounds. Sounds that are best described by the word "farting". It sounds hopeless. The sub not only does not improve anything in the listening, it spoils it. It is simply impossible to listen to. Quiet farting, in addition I think out of phase gives the effect of tiring reverberation. As if a lost pad is smashing on the diaphragm of some speaker.

There was nothing left to do but to see this invention from the inside.



From the outside, a rather large speaker cover and a bassreflex opening plugged with a sponge.

After removing the loudspeaker cover a slight surprise:




And then a glance at the electronics:



I don't know whether the fact that it sounds so bad is due to the small loudspeaker, the amplifier used or maybe transmission problems.
For the time being I have only tested the speaker. I hooked it up to a regular stereo amplifier. It plays poorly. There is hardly any bass, but no farting either. I plan to power a regular speaker with this amplifier. Maybe I will learn something about its quality. Ultimately I would like to build a new sub if possible using the original cabinet and communication module.

What do you guys think? Any ideas?

I did a couple of tests.

I connected a normal speaker in place of the speaker, this did not change anything. I connected a so-called signal seeker with a small loudspeaker to the output of the BT module, basically no sound comes out of it. There is something minimally buzzing to the rhythm of the TV sound, but you really have to listen in. Probably the small speaker does not transmit low frequencies.

This all indicates that either something is wrong with the BT module, or the TV itself cuts (probably software) the frequencies sent to the sub.
In this case, there is nothing to move the sub itself. You have to wait for the next TV software update.

I would be sure, if it would be possible to pair this sub with another device. Unfortunately, the phones detect it but won't connect. One ignores it completely, the other asks for a PIN, which I don't know. I could still feed the amplifier input with a normal signal from a CD for example, and that's probably what I'll do, but it's a bit more fun.

Is it worth buying this model of sub? I wanted to buy it for the Philips 55PUS7600
Have you been able to test it under another TV? I have seen one at auctions for £250-400 each.

blackrafal wrote:

Would you buy this model of sub?

In my opinion, definitely not. Its design does not promise any good results. Admittedly, it plays tragically in my house, most likely for software reasons, but I still wouldn't give a penny for it.

Have you tried setting multichannel sound or other settings in the options?
For me, the PS3 made strange sounds with bad sound settings in the options.

I'll join the topic with a question, how do I convert this to a wired sub, where do I plug in the cinch plug

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How do I make a switch so that I can connect via cable and possibly some kind of driver so that I can switch to bluetooth in case of emergency?
Through bluetooth it has a slight delay, they should fix this in software in the 55pus7600.
If we already have a connection, to which input on the TV and which option should I choose in the software so that the speaker works as a subwoofer?

We solder the pins in such a way as to connect the amplifier. Next to the connector there is a description where to connect the audio input.

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Ok, but which socket on the TV do I plug it into and with which cable? Do I have to select an option on the TV for it to work?

You can then connect to any analogue audio source, i.e.:
1. audio output via cinch or jack from TV if available
2. audio output via euro from TV if available
3. from digital audio output IRDA or COAXIAL via converter if available
4. other devices with audio output, e.g. telephone with headphone output, mp3, DVD, radio etc.

When connected via coaxial, will the TV detect this device as a subwoofer?
Do you have a picture of the finished project?

This device does not have a coaxial input. There is no physical input by default. It only has a power cord and fussy bluetooth communication.

Good morning
@Tomek 35, your post on this subwoofer was extremely helpful. I got to the stage where I soldered the pins mute/gnd is standby/gnd, now I'm not sure where or how to connect the Aux cable.

In the audio output from the TV, unfortunately new TVs do not have and you need an adapter, from optical the easiest way to do it. Or, if not, from a EURO SCART cable, for this an active filter.

Yes, but to the subwoofer where should I connect now. Which pins are from receiving an analogue signal?

On the left side of the slot there is a description on the laminate.
GND
BT LCH
BT RCH

Great, thanks for the reply. On my system the lettering was painted over with some kind of marker, but indeed described in the photo above.

How about connecting another Bluetooth module that we pair with the TV, and analogue from the module to these pins?

The most sensible thing to do is to connect the Line-In to these BT L/RCH and see how it plays with a normal source.
Then possibly connect a better amplifier directly to the speaker.

The quality is rather indicative of problems with the BT module or/and the amplifier itself.

Fact that it is unlikely to expect miracles from such a small diaphragm, not less there are designs that can surprise. I myself have a Pioneer SW-90 subwoofer, yes, a slightly different class and dimensions of equipment, but it has only a 14 cm driver. Even computer 2.1 systems often have such micro subs and still don't fart.
"Farting" can also result from poor cable routing inside. I once had this happen in one active sub, where the cables resonated against the plastic cover of the amplifier.

With the latest 2017 software after disabling this subwoofer in the options and re-pairing (or unplugging the subwoofer from the socket) it works quite well.
I would bet on a few options for improvement:
1. Replacing the components with better ones
2. Changing the bluetooth transmitter/receiver to some more powerful or newer version.
3. Connecting this subwoofer to some connector - although here the option is average, because if the TV does not detect it as a subwoofer or audio device, it misses the point.
4. Replacing the module from bluetooth to Wi-Fi, which would reduce the latency, but you would also have to dig into the software of the TV
I fixed the antenna inside a bit, but it did not do anything, the problem is in the communication.
I am curious how it works with the new Philips TVs, whether it also stutters and rumbles so much, and what kind of latency it has then.

Since the bass is non-directional, I would put it on the cable. The phase and delay of the bass as well as the position of the BR is crucial. As the delay from the module comes in, it misses the point. You can just buy a 25 cm car subwoofer enclosure, some used STX or a passive car subwoofer on large speakers. To that an amplifier with Alixspress 2x something there, depends how big your room is.

It's mainly a question of whether the TV detects it programmatically, if it doesn't, then even designing an entire subwoofer is pointless.

If it has an optical output, as most new TVs only have that apart from HDMI, you'll do anything with a converter. Through 2x500 kOhm you can output the sound from the stereo outputs of the amplifier you use for normal stereo. Although if you have at least 16 cm in the speakers, you will get more bass by actively boosting the 35-50 Hz region with loudness.