[Solved] Thrustmaster TX - No 3.3v IC power supply

Hello

I am looking for a diagram or at least information on what regulates the 3.3v voltage supplying the main systems in the Thrustmaster TX steering wheel board.
The board has a 24v power supply (mainly to power the engine), which is activated when the USB cable is connected (by sending 5v to the power supply).
I found one dc-dc regulator (TPS54040) on the board that reduces the voltage to 12v to power the cooling fan. I suspect that from the same 24v line or from the 12v mentioned, the voltage is reduced to 3.3, but I have no idea where. Have any of you had contact with this tile?

Currently, after plugging in the usb into pc, the voltage on the circuits increases slowly to 0.4v. I do not think that 3.3v is obtained from 5v from USB - a friend who has a working T500RS (very similar in structure) - after connecting only USB without a power supply, the steering wheel is not even detected.

I connected the external 3.3v power supply to one of the system power line capacitors (the one in the orange frame in the photo) and the steering wheel came to life - the pc detected correctly, the motor turned the motor a little (so the control should also be ok). Steering wheel detected, even successful firmware update, but steering wheel position sensor (AS5048A) and none of the buttons work. 3.3v that I connected also reaches the sensor and is compatible with its datasheet.
I wonder if such an external power connection does not cause another problem - which means that the inputs are not detected by the main cube. Therefore, I wanted to start by repairing the 3.3v power supply.

The board itself is based on the TM4C123GE6PZ cube, plus the DRV8301 brushless motor driver - both powered by 3.3v.
There is one chip that I cannot identify - the housing has something like this: 35901 74203 he327 and it has 10 pins - you know what it can be?

Illustrative photos below, thanks in advance for your help.

The voltage of 3.3 V is provided by the DRV8301 driver. Check the D1 diode (the Schottki diode you marked it in orange) but also the FB35 and FB36 protections (this looks like the smd transistor is a fast diode, you can use 1N4848) lower left corner photo 1.

Added after 18 [minutes]:

And besides, if you had damaged mosfets, and DRV to replace - the cause of damage to the motor is a detached magnet stator. The systems get incorrect information from the hall effect sensor and the halothron from the motor in which the stator has changed. This information goes to the system which states that there is too little current on the motor and the catastrophe, often DRV mosfets fly.

I struggle with the steering wheel of the T300, practically mechanically new. First it disconnected during autocalibration. The reason was a cold solder on one of the transistors, the impact caused the power supply to be turned off, as 5V from USB was disappearing. Then the steering wheel was not recognized by the PC as the T300RS, here the reason was a bad contact on the PS4 / PS3 switch. After a week of use, the steering wheel began to lose force feedback and had problems with auto-calibration. Calibrating the engine with Thrustmaster software restored it to working order for about 20 minutes of playing. Then the steering wheel decided to "turn on the green light" and not be recognized by the PC - here 6MHz quartz failed. Now the steering wheel is running correctly for about 4 minutes, then the FFB is weakening. I noticed that the resistance to the steering angle limitations, especially to the left, is getting weaker. After a few gentle turns in the leftmost position (as if you were pumping) the drag force returns to normal and the steering wheel works about 3-5 minutes. After this pumping procedure, there is no problem with auto-calibration. Do you think that the motor may also be damaged here, or something with the communication between the DRV8301 (I mean voltage sense or Isense) and TM4C123g because here the motor control is probably in a sensorless system - how is it compared with the AS5048A rotation angle sensor at the end of the motor? I have no idea whether to look for the reason in the engine or in the electronics? Maybe you have some more experience with this Chinese bum? best regards

Fikszyn - thanks for the hint. I desoldered and checked the D1 diode some time ago - it's ok. From which pin of this driver this voltage is taken - from No. 23 (in the datasheet it says that it should not be used to power other circuits - besides, I can not see the connections)?
In the meantime, due to problems with the lack of signals reaching the ankle (buttons and position of the wheel / pedal) - I ordered a new board from Thrustmaster (which cost me 69 euro with shipping - taking into account that I bought the steering wheels for PLN 150, I'm still ahead ).
Earlier, I checked the motor - I measured the resistance on each winding (equal) and the voltage induced after connecting it to the drill and turning the rotor. I also didn't feel any resistance when turning the engine - that's why I assumed it was operational.
When I bought this steering wheel (as damaged), the DRV8301 was desoldered from the plate - i.e. someone had already fought with it before but gave up. After soldering the new driver, I had the problem I described in the first post.

In any case, now the steering wheel works on a new plate - while I will leave the old one for spare parts. Thanks for the help.

ras2375 - if you spin the engine during calibration, the engine is ok. It's strange that the steering wheel "weakens" only after some time of playing. Does the power supply voltage drop after some time? - maybe the guilty power supply. If, as you say, "pump" with the steering wheel - maybe this way you recharge the capacitors for a while (though I don't know if it is possible) and then it works again (until discharged).
Look for the "Andrew Daniels TX Thread" guide on the isrtv.com forum - if it is really a power supply - maybe the replacement that Andrew proposed for the TX will fit the T300RS (in fact, these are the same steering wheels).

purejoy88 - thanks for your interest, indeed, when the FFB strength is weak, the voltage on the power supply drops to 22V when you try to break the resistance. Generally it varies between 22V and 32V. But I checked on the workshop power supply and it is the same, the current consumption increases to 2.7A. The motor reaches a temperature of 33 degrees on the heat sink. The fan starts up fairly quickly. When it worked properly, the fan turned on after 15 minutes and now it turns on even after 30 seconds. I haven't measured the engine yet, but it mechanically spins smoothly. How did you buy the CD from Thrustmaster? Can you buy spare parts from them?
best regards

The behavior of the power supply seems to be ok - hard case, nothing else comes to mind. Did you turn the engine itself or the steering wheel? - maybe there is some resistance on the gear / bearing of the axle itself, which causes the motor to overheat.
As for the new pbc - you have to write via the official support on:
https://ts.thrustmaster.com
Officially, there is such a spare part and they are not willing to send them. Only after I described a few cases where I had information from several forums that they offered such a replacement - they agreed to send it provided that I agree that I will not receive any instructions (how to replace the plate) and acknowledge that I am not entitled to any warranty.

Hello, there is such a problem with the engine that after calibrating the guns correctly, but during playing and strong hits to the limit switches, the magnetic core of the engine changes. This is the black shaft in the photo, it is mounted on the axle with aluminum spacers, see photo. but under the influence of temperature and impacts it detaches and changes, it starts to react incorrectly in games. Out of 50, 70% had a detached core.

Hello, the engine is actually not of the highest quality. I suspected that the stator in the housing was moving, but as you can see from your experience, the magnet is to blame. In fact, the motor works the hardest when stopped (power consumption over 2A) and then it loses synchronization very quickly, starts to heat up and loses power. When I move it to the blocking point of the set rotation angle limiter, the current consumption increases, when I hold it for a while, the current drops and the motor recovers power, synchronization returns and everything is ok for a while. It has nothing to do with lowering the power by the microcontroller (thrustmaster thermal protection). In that case, I have a question, did you manage to repair such a damaged engine?
best regards

I stick the magnet in the motor with two-component glue > after 24 hours it is ready. It happens as you described (ras2375), pour strong glue and it will be ok.
The photo shows you clearly the magnet and axle with bearing and aluminum bushings. When the motor reaches the limit, the axle will lock, but the magnet continues to rotate on these aluminum distances. These must be glued to the magnet. These are quite high forces and the glue must be very good, so I use this cold welding glue.
http://www.jbweld.com/

Hello, reading this, I can see that I have the same problem as Fikszyn, I am convinced that I have the same cause of the malfunction of my T300.
Do any of you have a step-by-step tutorial with photos on how to do it, I'm a total layman and I'm afraid to open the steering wheel base myself so as not to worsen something.
I'm Fikszyn from Kujawy, maybe I would be close to your website :)

best regards

Hello, have any of you already tried to find a replacement engine for the T 300?
I am asking because I dismantled the engine according to Fiszkin's indications, I put it together and the steering wheel turns on, the computer detects it, but does not respond (it does not start the calibration).

WELCOME. Check if there is 3.3V on the DRV8301 (diode D1) if it is and did not knock down the mosfets, then you did not set the polarity of the hallotron, this small magnet under the hallotron plate. Connect the power supply through the ammeter (preferably with protection set to 2.5 A) and so set by moving the magnet to the left and right with minimal steps, literally one millimeter, until the calibration starts, set the current to max. 2A, and in the idle state it should not exceed 300mA. Caution !!! it is quite a dangerous regulation for systems, you must limit the power supply with a current, e.g. resistor. Tedious work requires patience and thoughtfulness. Good luck

Added after 9 [minutes]:

aha, remember I also used the compass? At the beginning, connect the engine without the drive belt and mark the stop center on the sprocket and the engine body with a marker pen, fun ..... I don't know how to fit it easier, let me know if it worked.

Fikszyn and you wouldn't want to play it ??

Hello

I have a T300, I tried to remove a malfunction of the moving rotor on the motor shaft, but when opening the motor, I probably torn off the wires connecting the plate with the thermistor to the motor winding (UWV). Is the engine that I found suitable for a replacement in the steering wheel? Are motor control signals the same ...?

http://en.hengdrive.com/Products/B4260MBrushlessDCMot.html

best regards

In order to avoid sticking the stator, I took the motor apart and glued it according to Fikszyn's advice. The calibration itself caused problems, but by slowly turning the magnet that controls the hall, we managed to set the steering wheel. If the magnet is incorrectly positioned, the steering wheel will behave exactly as it does in many YouTube videos - e.g. it will hit one side and will not move to the 0 position. Quickly turn off the USB cable and rotate the magnet until the steering wheel calibrates itself ie left to right and centering. The power supply in the 0 position is about 32V and it drops when we turn the steering wheel.
In addition, I put a heat sink with cooling on the mosfets, so they should be a bit lighter.

kiszony11 wrote:

The calibration itself caused problems, but by slowly turning the magnet that controls the hall, we managed to set the steering wheel.

In the 21st century, software is used for these things.
It is called thrustmaster motor calibration tool.

Download from the attachment.
You start it, connect the steering wheel and if everything is OK after carefully assembling the engine and the whole mechanism, at the end a nice word OK! Appears at the end, like in this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OifzmAFo1JU

Hello, I have not been here for a long time, everyone gives advice like a colleague from pickles11. I warned you that it was fun for the patient. As for the Lukson program, you still need to interfere with the setting of the magnet under the hall sensor. If you do not set the correct current for the motor with the magnet (so that it gives the voltage to the coil in the motor at the right moment), this program may damage the drivers.

The program test ends with the message OK so I think the "manual" positioning of the magnet on the Hall effect sensor was successful.
When setting, you need to mark the 0 position - for me the steering wheel was slightly slanted, but moving the belt by 2 teeth gave the desired effect.

Fikszyn wrote:

As for the program from Lukson, you still need to interfere in the setting of the magnet under the hall sensor. If you do not set the correct current for the motor with the magnet (so that it gives the voltage to the coil in the motor at the right moment), this program may damage the drivers.

Nothing has damaged me so far. Weird.

As for the steering wheel, instead of resistors between the driver and the mosfets, I would put diodes protecting against voltage after burning the mosfet. Possibly parallel to the resistor.
I have to check it in one of the steering wheels whether the driver will sleep or not.

Ultimately, I fell with my plate. I got to the point where the PC recognized the steering wheels but no buttons or pedals responded - the engine did not rotate and calibrate the steering wheel position.
I managed to get a replacement PCB through thrustmaster's support - you have to stubbornly write to them - I finally paid 60 euro for a new PCB with shipping about a year ago. Once connected, everything works. This is the final solution - but it's good to know that you can save the steering wheels at least this way.
Thank you for your help - topic to be closed.