Induction Cooker 230V Compatibility & Performance: Electrolux EKI-54550OX 10.2kW Model

Question

I have a question because I am considering buying a cooker with an induction hob but I do not have a 400V socket are on sale 230V, but seeing the opin...

andrzejlisek · Accepted Answer

Two years ago I was interested in this topic and I learned that induction works in such a way that with "tiny fire" they take energy all the time with less power. However, in the oven, the heater is either at full power or not at all, it is controlled by a thermostat.

4-burner hobs have a power of 7kW, but this power will only pull when all 4 are set to maximum, but generally cooking / frying / baking is on a lower heat (not full power of the coil), the maximum power is usually only needed to boil the cold water or heating something cold, then the "boost" function comes in handy. So it seems that the consumption of the entire 7kW will be very sporadic. Many models have the option to set the maximum power consumption and thus make sure not to pull more power.

When I was buying the CD, most of them (probably even all that I saw in the store) were for two phases and could be connected to one phase. In my opinion, this does not change the way the board works, because one phase powers two coils and the other phase powers the other two coils, and the voltage shift between the phases does not play any role, the board does not use phase-to-phase voltage. In that case, each board can be connected to 230V, but you need to know what power the installation will withstand, i.e. what fuse protects the circuit supplying the board, a slight excess of power for a short time (a few seconds, up to a few minutes) will not disable the fuse or burn the installation, assuming that it is properly made, each circuit breaker, with a slight overload, switches off the circuit after a certain delay according to the current-time characteristic.

I do not know if you have a wife and children, but I can say that I was afraid of the same thing as you (I had problems joining the force), but in retrospect, I can see that you only use one field, sporadically two. With two people, you will probably rarely use all 4 at once. A completely different matter if you prepare food for Christmas, which I do not do, because I go to my family.

To sum up, when using the board in a way that excludes the operation of all fields at the same time with full power, using it in a 4-5kW installation should not cause any problems. It is different if you have a wife and she complains that she cannot use the iron while the hob is working. I don't have a wife, so I don't know these kinds of problems in practice, but I suppose there are some women to whom you won't explain the limitations in the use of the equipment due to the possibility of installation. Then starting the induction hob will be a big problem.

MARCIN.SLASK · Accepted Answer

This is what it is all about. Old installations, even aluminum ones, are the most common. Good boards have good power supplies (the MPM bent me with its power supply - I think 4 are sitting there and each pulls almost 1A (some 210VA / 2W), but the current is current). Medium power induction is 5-6A / pole. So you can easily cook on 2 burners and wash in a washing machine. The problem becomes when we cook on 3-4 burners (holidays, parties ... (in the background washing, ironing, cake in the oven, sometimes an electric kettle)) and we have a problem. Therefore, I advise against induction when we only have phase 1. It will work, but there may be problems, and then it is the fault of whoever is to blame.

MARCIN.SLASK · Answer

The hob oven will work properly with a 1f 230V power supply, but you certainly do not have an installation in your home that would allow it (40kW power allocation, 10mm? cable installation, 50A protection).
That is why such devices most often work at 3f - then the currents are distributed into 3 phases. Smaller diameters of wires are needed, protection then 16A / phase and most importantly, smaller load asymmetry.
Typical 4-pole induction hobs only for 1 phase 230V have a limited power, so as not to exceed 16A - about 3200-3800W. So it has half of a normal induction hob powered by 2f.

A.Gieronimo · Answer

Some cookers have a lock on the number of "burners" turned on, only 2 burners can be used at a time when connected to 230V. So they will work, the question at which holiday will the wife start throwing garami.

rycek87 · Answer

hmmm .. in the oven specification it says: Field 1 power / diameter Diameter [mm]: 180, Power [W]: 2800/1800 so only 1 burner will work for me? hard topic with this stove, because I have no way to tighten my strength

A.Gieronimo · Answer

The theoretical maximum power in a single-phase circuit is 3.5kW. (in particular 4kW) See for yourself how it will work.

mrhari · Answer

I have 10.9 kW kitchens in one phase and everything works. Protection 25A.

A.Gieronimo · Answer

Assuming a typical contract for the supply of 1f energy, which usually amounts to 4-5kW, we have a 20-25A protection. Rather, it is not possible to use all the burners at the same time.

kot mirmur · Answer

At my colleague, the Whirlpool induction from Ikea, when powered from the 1st phase, turned off when two bays were turned on. Twice they were from the service, the module was replaced - none of them measured the voltage under load! 195V! After connecting to 3 phases everything works fine. Mod. I don't remember the kitchen - bought five years ago together with the cabinets at Ikea.

rycek87 · Answer

well, I think I will give up the purchase for now: /

rycek87 · Answer

Basically, I have a fairly new installation. Copper cable 3x2.5mm2 connected directly to the fuse box. I will add that the fuse box is connected to 3 phases
The electrician pulled my strength into the box and from these 3 phases he stretched the 1-phase installation around the house
and in the place of the socket to which the oven is to be connected, a separate cable goes to the fuse box, which is protected by a 16A fuse.
I was able to learn so much about my installation ... should I therefore be afraid of buying such a cooker?

andrzejlisek · Answer

I understand that you have a separate circuit for the oven with a 16A fuse. Speaking of cable, do I understand correctly that you have one circuit for the board that is built with this cable?

I suggest asking an electrician or checking the following details yourself:
1. Do you have a separate circuit for the board?
2. Is there one or two circuits under the board?
3. Are the circuits under the board connected to different phases?
4. Is there access to two different phases at the place where the hob is to be used, other than the one connected to the oven circuit?

As I bought the album in 2013, the vast majority of it was intended to be connected to two phases with the possibility of connecting to one. I do not know what the cable was, probably 2.5mm2, but for sure I have these two circuits with a 16A fuse.

If there are no two separate circuits for the hob, only one, then the oven circuit can be stubbornly used, provided that the hob and oven circuits are powered from two different phases, and that you are willing to accept that your home will not be the hob and the oven at the same time. You have to call an electrician to the hob anyway, because in general the warranty is valid only when the connection is made by an electrician and inserts a stamp and signature on the warranty card.

rycek87 · Answer

I have a separate circuit on the 16A protection, as if for the oven and the plate because it is one and the same socket. is it in a separate phase ... I don't know

wnoto · Answer

I would replace ----- because induction heats better (more economically) than other systems.

labudin · Answer

Hello
Sorry for burying the old cutlet, but I have a question on mixing 4.4kW, I would like to install an induction hob on 230V, does it make any sense or will there be something else in the house, e.g. washing machine, dishwasher, TV set? I will add that the installation will be made completely new, including fuses.

kortyleski · Answer

Pull up at once three phases and more power allocation. 4kW is my women with an iron and a thermo dryer

malyjasiu · Answer

In apartments, it is not a coincidence that the power allocation is 5kW. There are a whole lot of customers around you who have more and more "devouring" devices. It is not much possible to increase the fuse, because an induction hob is not a simple heater. With too high voltage drops in the block, it will stop working. Will turn off. Damage to it is unlikely, but possible.

rycek87 · Answer

Hello,

I started the topic, and after the entries here, I gave up the purchase for some time ....
In the end I bought the album because there was a promotion in amica and I got a PLN 200 discount on the oven ... I took a risk because I found the return free, which is bad for me

I also asked 2 independent electricians and each said that the induction hob would not work
Meanwhile, I bought a kitchen with the possibility of connecting to 400 and 230 V and it works flawlessly ... on 230 V
as I described, I have a separate circuit for the oven and induction hob and fuse 16 .... the hob works with all 4 burners turned on to the maximum without any reservations, although so far I have not checked what it will look like when I turn on the oven ... well but so far I had no such need

mychaj · Answer

I have had a 230V hob in my apartment for 9 years - first a regular one, for 3 years induction, new installation (9 years), 6mm for a ground floor apartment, a 2.5mm plate secured with B16A - it only flies out when I fire 4 burners at 100% , normally used by my wife, flew maybe 2-3 times during this time.

kortyleski · Answer

Yes you are right . not by accident. By coincidence, however, the regulations and guidelines in the energy sector have not been changed for many years. In other industries, too. In the 80's, the house had the following awesome set. Automatic washing machine - 1.5 kW Electric kettle - 350W Hair dryer - FAREL 300W A few light bulbs, other little things. Far up to 5kW. Today, in a typical apartment there is a washing machine, dishwasher, kettle, but already 1.5 kW, a hair dryer with a power of 1 kW is rather standard, and vacuum cleaners above a kilowatt too. where are you talking about the allocation of 5kW? Add a plate, an oven and a microwave, it is 15kW, not enough ...

MARCIN.SLASK · Answer

Old kettles were 1.5kW, and so tiny 1kW. Now it's 2-3.2kW. Dryers also around 2kW, irons 2-3kW. 1.5-3.5kW heaters / fan heaters. At that time, there was a top-down restriction, because the industry consumed a lot of energy, so there were planned outages in cities. Now we have practically no industry and if someone wants, maybe for the appropriate $$$ to increase the power (even 0.25MW to the apartment will be pulled as someone wants, but it will not be cheap )

andrzejlisek · Answer

Assuming the cooperative / community agrees. It's convenient for ZE. I have encountered a case where in a block from the 1970s there was a 16A fuse, i.e. a power of 3kW, this was also the case in my apartment, it was possible to increase to 5kW / 1 ~ without a problem, but it was difficult to get 12kW / 3 ~ to be sure because I was afraid that 5kW would be on the border. A typical 4-pole induction hob is generally 7kW, but this power will be consumed at the full power of all fields, and in general, the broadly understood thermal treatment is carried out at reduced power (equivalent to a small fire on gas), except for boiling water, for which you need one field and only then is the "boost" function useful. In practice, it depends on the needs and size of the family. I live alone and I really need one "burner" and it doesn't happen that I use a hob, oven and microwave at the same time. If I had a wife and a child, all 4 fields would probably work often, but not all of them at full power all the time. In addition, most boards have the option of setting a power consumption limitation (in mine, it is). I do not know how it works (whether it evenly reduces the power of all, or prevents increasing the power of the currently set field above the total limit), but it is made for such cases that someone wants to have induction, and has a power of 5kW or 9kW, it reduces the risk of switching off , but still, for example, not using the washing machine, hair dryer and iron while the hob is working, and vice versa, it will be a significant inconvenience to life.

mychaj · Answer

Well, I think I live in a strange place - a family of 4, hob, washing machine, dishwasher, etc. and somehow it does not turn off anything, we normally live without paying attention to what is plugged into the sockets - just normal use, and all this at 25 A.

andrzejlisek · Answer

The washing machine and dishwasher do not use full power all the time, only when the heater is on, and heating the water is only one step in the washing program. I also heard that each B or C switch has its own characteristic that it "withstands" the overload for some time (the greater the overload, the shorter the time). These characteristics can be found on the internet. Therefore, the 25A switch will withstand e.g. 40A (several high power heaters) for a short time (now I do not remember these dependencies), but it will turn off immediately with a 200A short circuit.

mychaj · Answer

But I know it perfectly well - I only give examples to sorcerers who say that they will live in the dark or by the switchboard every now and then, including "esa".
Old, worn-out installations are the only limitation.

MARCIN.SLASK · Answer

Many people want to pack induction into old buildings, or 40-year-old blocks, where we have alu. No self-respecting electrician will sign up for it. There is one important parameter: fault loop impedance. Home-grown "handhelds" easily overturn the fuse so that it does not burn out, or changes the "ESA". It's not so bad when the cable burns out somewhere under the plaster. But we often have a fire, because the installations are overloaded, the protection is wrongly selected. Nobody can forbid anyone to buy induction, but let them get the installation in order first. A new installation does not mean that it is well done. I saw the installation as made by a team of electricians from a cooperative in a large housing estate. There are 4 burners induction with a maximum power of 3500-3800W (i.e. about 16A). If you don't need more than two burners at a time, it's no problem. The problem may be on holidays, birthdays, etc. How do we need to quickly cook and use 4 burners. Perhaps some people will not be bothered by the fact that you have to wait longer, because the disc has a limited maximum power.

tobiasz86 · Answer

This and I will dig up the topic because it has long been lost. We have two kitchens in the house, in one, there is an induction on the top and an oven-3f connected directly to the switchboard, the second kitchen is underneath it, but we do not have three phases, only ordinary sockets. At the moment, we use an oven connected to one phase and a gas stove there. We want to get rid of this device in favor of a free-standing kitchen with an induction top and an electric oven. I would not like to connect it to one phase, but to separate the three-phase wire from the upper kitchen to the lower one, it will not be too heavy a load for the installation?

andrzejlisek · Answer

So in short, you would like to have both three-phase cookers (two phases for induction and a third for an oven, the freestanding 3f ones are also done like this).

If there is only one in use at a time, then no problem (because you are using one now, so I assume it's not a problem), worse if you want to use both at the same time. If the electrical installation was carried out professionally, a separate circuit should be made (actually three circuits, each with a different phase) for the kitchen with an appropriately selected wire cross-section and protection. Is it really so? What amperage is this protection for in each circuit? The probability of the protection switching off depends on this, but on the other hand, the induction usually does not consume full power, and the oven (depending on the model) can consume full power (approx. 3kW) intermittently. For this reason, I think it is a good idea to connect the ovens to two different phases, as long as it is possible to use both at the same time (if only ovens are used, there will be no 6kW consumption from one phase, which requires appropriately thick wires).

If you do not know your installation, I think that the best idea will be to invite an electrician, with such powers it is easy to overheat or even fire in the case of a malfunction and incorrect installation. This is not a bulb that can be plugged in for amateurs and nothing will happen (of course, it's better to do it carefully here too).

tobiasz86 · Answer

At the moment, the plate and the oven are connected with the only three-phase plug to the installation (one plug for both devices, but I do not know if the oven for one phase and the plate for the others or both devices use 3f simultaneously - I have no idea)
This cable was led by an electrician during the renovation of the switchboard, so I assume that it is made in accordance with the art, I do not know what diameter the cable is, but it is not thin. The f3 protection is c20, previously I had b20 but the inverter welder often turned off at startup, which is why it is changed.
I doubt that in both kitchens (rooms) there will ever be more than one oven + four induction burners, i.e. one kitchen set at full power. But if it did, what could be the possible consequences - if only turning on the security is ok