Cortanin F: Effectiveness for Restoring Old Agricultural Machine with Rust Issues

Question

Hello colleagues. I have a question. Well, I wanted to restore an old agricultural machine that had been standing outside for over a dozen years. Paint peeled off in many places and rust appeared. I have nothing to clean the rust from the bare sheet metal and therefore I thought to bind it with...

tzok · Accepted Answer

It's a waste of money ... its only advantage is a nice smell, because it is a spirit varnish with tannin (or oak bark tincture). There are more effective preparations such as R-Stop or Kompleksor 2000, but it still makes sense to use them as a last resort, only where there is no access to mechanically remove rust.

deus.ex.machina · Accepted Answer

It is a preparation based on orthophosphoric acid that converts the rust into a stable form of oxide that provides adequate protection.
The mentioned tannin acts as a corrosion inhibitor.
As for effectiveness - it all depends on the substrate - almost every rust preparation uses a similar mechanism.

Much more expensive formulations may offer higher efficacy, but in the end, nothing lasts forever and only full passivation of the object provides lasting protection.

Cortanin F prepares the substrate for painting, you can look for reactive primers that offer greater durability, you can use ready-made reactive coatings - it all depends on what you are protecting and under what conditions and what it is exposed to.

There are various industrial preparations (shipbuilding, hydraulic installations, etc.), unfortunately, sometimes difficult to obtain, but rather decent quality due to their intended use.

Cortanin himself is not bad (just like Corin's paint) - you just have to be able to use it and secure it properly in practice, it means that you do not have to reckon with someone who performs the service for a fee - if you do not do it yourself, you have a problem.

brofran · Accepted Answer

I have used Cortanin and Fosol. In my opinion, Fosol is doing better. Both preparations require removal of loose rust before removing Fosol with water. You can also use Hamerait and its counterparts, but it is more expensive to play with.

deus.ex.machina · Accepted Answer

This is the same with the difference that Cortanin has a tannin that acts as a corrosion inhibitor - both agents convert the rust or iron III oxide to iron phosphate. A condition for any rust removal to be successful is that any loose rust is removed but not bare metal. This is the most common mistake - people will clean it down to metal, give it a complexor and then they are surprised that everything flakes off and falls off - reactive preparations have to react with iron oxide and not with iron as such (simplify because it is about iron alloys mainly with carbon).

Bartez101 · Accepted Answer

I recommend Corizon paint, which (as provided by the manufacturer) can be applied to metallic clean surfaces. You can read here:

KaW · Accepted Answer

I use Cortanin F. Simple - it does not require any special treatment
surface. Wet the corroded coating and then set the agent
rust and its products. Dries and forms a coating-primer for painting. It is worth buying more to have the freedom to paint the surface - with a small excess. Running for missing amounts is more expensive.

kgs245 · Accepted Answer

At the end of the 1980s (Cortanin was a novelty then) I painted some metal elements, red, but without loose rust, twice, the second time after the first layer had dried, and then heated while still wet, or you can say baked on an electric cooker plate. These elements were not covered with any other paint after this treatment, and to this day they look as if they were covered with a colorless varnish and so far no new traces of corrosion can be seen. I also used a reactive primer used in car varnishing, but the metal was probably too little ore because after a year, the acrylic lacquer, exposed to weather conditions, went away together with the primer. With the brunox preparation, the story was that it created a nice surface for the varnish, but after some time it fell off together with the rust layer in places where it could not be removed thoroughly. As you can see, there are many different methods and only the right choice for specific conditions will give a good effect and you will not be able to do without your own attempts, an extremely important condition to read the instructions for use and strictly stick to it

tzok · Accepted Answer

Cortanine works but only on a completely rusty surface, there must be no healthy sheet metal or paint residues ... when reacted, it is basically waterproof. Before painting, you need to wait a few days until it dries well, and the unreacted coating (in places where it was applied too thick or where there was no corrosion) must be thoroughly washed off with water.

Unfortunately, I was also disappointed on Brunox ... this season I will be testing the R-Stop.

Dobromir pomysłowy · Accepted Answer

I trust you know each other. I painted a cleaned sheet with Fosol a long time ago, something rust remained, but the sheet metal without any painting in dry conditions, without a trace of corrosion.

Anonymous · Accepted Answer

This is the key to success. A proven method is to use a slightly diluted Cortanin, and after drying, to paint subsequent layers - also diluted. It is good to use the preparation in the shade and not on heated objects. Many years ago, when Cortanin was sold in vials and ampoules due to the price, its cheaper counterpart - Complex was used (I do not know if also now) to protect reinforcement against corrosion during the winter break of the construction season. He performed excellently. As already written in the thread, Cortanin has been used in body shops for years. Personally, I had a painted garage door with it, which for 25 years had a noble appearance and, without any additional paint coating, was perfectly protected against corrosion. greetings

Dobromir pomysłowy · Accepted Answer

As the rusty metal will form a coating faster, you can paint it at once, top 2 and the end. It will create a coating resistant not only to water and oxygen, etc., but also mechanically weak. And when we have the next paint, apply it after a few hours, rinse off the remnants of the preparation (because the paint may flake off). Unless there is thick rust or you paint with a diluted preparation, you should paint 2-3 layers. In the case of non-rusted metal, it takes longer time and hot can be used.

Xantix · Answer

And this Fosol, if I'm not mistaken, is such a caustic agent that removes rust? Because Cortanin, as far as I know, is associated with rust, not removing it ...

deus.ex.machina · Answer

Fosol, Cortanin and the mass of preparations based on phosphoric acid do exactly the same. While maintaining the technological regime described by the manufacturer and additional protection (coating increasing the mechanical parameters), such a process is really good. In the case of car body repairs (but not only - wherever possible), I would personally choose tinning / thermal lead as a substitute for electrolytic cadmium plating.

Dobromir pomysłowy · Answer

Wiki does not confirm what you write, it even contradicts it. And when it comes to tinning, if you pay 1000 papers, you can do it anyway

deus.ex.machina · Answer

Seriously? And where does it even deny it? Come on with that 1000 bits - it's a matter of laziness and lack of knowledge rather than money. Few of them offer such a service, even if they could expect a higher payment.

Dobromir pomysłowy · Answer

- ... the process of chemical production of a protective matt-gray phosphate coating on the surface of metals (mainly steel). It can be used in both tool steel and stainless steel knives.

deus.ex.machina · Answer

Hot acid bath and before the corrosion process begins - creating a phosphate layer prevents corrosion, but when the oxide layer (rust) already exists, the oxide is converted to phosphate. There is no contradiction to the wikipedia article and derusting - the difference is simply the way and when the process takes place and the layer itself. It seemed obvious to me that the point here is to show that the process itself using a specific substance (phosphoric acid) is an industrial and quite common process.

Xantix · Answer

Thanks to colleagues for helpful advice. I close the topic.

Cortanin F: Effectiveness for Restoring Old Agricultural Machine with Rust Issues

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