How it's working? Chemical reaction with iron oxides, any corrosion inhibitors? From my observations, for example, Hammerite does not prevent further oxidation, under a layer of "ore" paint it still does its job, the only difference compared to ordinary paints is that the same does not come off and stays on for a long time. What do colleagues say?
Maderkite shakes. If there is already rust, then with a little moisture a FexOy / Fe cell is formed and the corrosion is fine. Zinc paints are effective because the zinc in the Zn / FE cell is dissolved first.
I used to use something like a complexor and as for making a whip with g..a, i.e. painting the rust, the effect was satisfactory, but it is a priming paint. As for Hammerite, I have the balcony railings painted with it and I agree with you owik.
My mechanic used to use something that looked like a lotion after lubricating it (roughly cleaning the surface from rust), the surface turned black and he claimed that the lotion oxidizes it in the same way as the barrels of a firearm are oxidized and it is the best protection and at the same time a good primer under the paint . I just don't know what it was called.
This measure is very expensive. You have to pay about PLN 2-3 thousand per liter. It breaks down the rusts and protects against further corrosion.
It is used in KGHM - it is used to paint ceiling supports, which are exposed to rust, because they sit in silt most of the time.
I have been saying for years that rust can be painted even with watercolors . What matters is the effect, which means that no rust is visible. The corrosion process continues under the coating. I guess it's mainly about steel, cast iron, etc. Unfortunately, each layer of oxidized material has to be removed to relatively stop the process. And these rust-inhibiting paints have the property that they form a thick film that sticks to the material better, creating an impression of correctness. As for rust removers, I recently bought something from Leroy, that when I left the rim wet to remove rust stains, the next day I had everything red (rusted). I still believe a bit in CORTANIN, which, however, seems to have disappeared from the market. He was probably too good.
Cortanine is available, but in my opinion it has one serious drawback. After drying, it forms a coating to which paint or enamel "adheres" very weakly. There is something similar, Brunox Epoxy is called. Damn expensive but it's a solution in some sort of resin. It reacts identically, it darkens in places of corrosion and after drying it is a good base for further painting. I do not recommend it, I do not encourage it, I do not know how it works in the long run - I am writing only for information, because I have used it a few times.
About 14-15 years ago I painted the freshly welded gate with paint for painting ships to this day. The second one, after making it, was sandblasted, then it was painted with a primer (red oxide) and with topcoat paint (some Polish without a revelation) it is 8 years and it is ok. Of course, I haven't painted any of them so far.
I have already practiced Cortana, polrust (better in my opinion), but the rust polyurethane paint called Cekor stuck best. There was a letter there. It reminds me of "R" but I won't give it a head. I applied to a rusty fence and was pleasantly surprised.
dinintrol or brunox epoxy - I prefer brunox because it dries faster and can be painted - the condition is that there must be rust on the surface - only a loose core is mechanically removed, which would peel off anyway, then paint the area prepared in this way with brunox, sometimes a second layer is applied and enough, after drying a good primer and painting
For rust removal, calcium hydride can be used, which is a strong reducing agent, especially for metals. Lightly moisten the place of rust, sprinkle with calcium hydride and keep your fingers crossed. Calcium hydride will react first with water: CaH2 + 2H2O -> Ca (OH) 2 + 2H2 ? The hydrogen will react with the iron oxides to take away their oxygen. Calcium hydride will also react with them in the same way, receiving oxygen ...
Hello, the paints "on the rust" should react with the surface, creating a "supplementary" cell is a good option, but most of them simply have an increased adhesion to the rust and do not come off, as if there is corrosion, it is impossible to stop it, you can slow down the reactions better or worse . Regards