[Solved] Paints "direct to rust".

73984 15
This content has been translated flag-pl » flag-en View the original version here.
  • #1
    User removed account
    User removed account  
  • #2
    Level 23  
    Maderkite shakes. If there is already rust, then with a little moisture a FexOy / Fe cell is formed and the corrosion is fine. Zinc paints are effective because the zinc in the Zn / FE cell is dissolved first.
  • #3
    Level 41  
    I used to use something like a complexor and as for making a whip with g..a, i.e. painting the rust, the effect was satisfactory, but it is a priming paint.
    As for Hammerite, I have the balcony railings painted with it and I agree with you owik.
  • #4
    Level 41  
    I used to rust with phosphorus and he just had to have a passivator on board because the surface was just getting darker. Well, it is a protection against corrosion like red lead.
  • #5
    DJ MHz
    Level 24  
    J. Kleban wrote:
    My mechanic used to use something that looked like a lotion after lubricating it (roughly cleaning the surface from rust), the surface turned black and he claimed that the lotion oxidizes it in the same way as the barrels of a firearm are oxidized and it is the best protection and at the same time a good primer under the paint .
    I just don't know what it was called.

    This measure is very expensive. You have to pay about PLN 2-3 thousand per liter.
    It breaks down the rusts and protects against further corrosion.

    It is used in KGHM - it is used to paint ceiling supports, which are exposed to rust, because they sit in silt most of the time.
  • #7
    Level 39  
    I have been saying for years that rust can be painted even with watercolors . What matters is the effect, which means that no rust is visible. The corrosion process continues under the coating. I guess it's mainly about steel, cast iron, etc. Unfortunately, each layer of oxidized material has to be removed to relatively stop the process. And these rust-inhibiting paints have the property that they form a thick film that sticks to the material better, creating an impression of correctness. As for rust removers, I recently bought something from Leroy, that when I left the rim wet to remove rust stains, the next day I had everything red (rusted). I still believe a bit in CORTANIN, which, however, seems to have disappeared from the market. He was probably too good.
  • #9
    User removed account
    User removed account  
  • #10
    Level 43  
    About 14-15 years ago I painted the freshly welded gate with paint for painting ships to this day. The second one, after making it, was sandblasted, then it was painted with a primer (red oxide) and with topcoat paint (some Polish without a revelation) it is 8 years and it is ok. Of course, I haven't painted any of them so far.
  • #11
    Level 12  
    I have already practiced Cortana, polrust (better in my opinion), but the rust polyurethane paint called Cekor stuck best. There was a letter there. It reminds me of "R" but I won't give it a head. I applied to a rusty fence and was pleasantly surprised.
  • #12
    User removed account
    User removed account  
  • #13
    AVE ...

    For rust removal, calcium hydride can be used, which is a strong reducing agent, especially for metals. Lightly moisten the place of rust, sprinkle with calcium hydride and keep your fingers crossed. Calcium hydride will react first with water:
    CaH2 + 2H2O -> Ca (OH) 2 + 2H2 ?
    The hydrogen will react with the iron oxides to take away their oxygen. Calcium hydride will also react with them in the same way, receiving oxygen ...
  • #14
    User removed account
    User removed account  
  • #15
    Level 11  
    I renew the thread :)

    What is your recent experience with rust paints?

    1. Hammerite,
    2. Steel ruffle,
    3. Snowball for rust.

    I recently painted the steel chute 5 years ago and it holds up nicely, but I don't know if the company has finished the product :)

    Thanks in advance
  • #16
    Level 42  
    the paints "on the rust" should react with the surface, creating a "supplementary" cell is a good option, but most of them simply have an increased adhesion to the rust and do not come off, as if there is corrosion, it is impossible to stop it, you can slow down the reactions better or worse .