Air Conditioning LG G12AH - Water Dripping After 4-5h Use in New Apartment: Causes & Solutions

Air conditioner in a new apartment. 2-3 years not used. Launched, it works efficiently, quickly cools the air, the air is odorless.
Yesterday it worked 4-5h on the machine 22st. After about 1-2 hours, I noticed that water was dripping onto the floor. From 10 cm from the right, a large drop appeared under the curtain, which from time to time landed on the floor.
I have one hose led under the sill to the gutter (neighbors) and the other, short one, is sticking out behind the balcony door but nothing is dripping from it.
Today it walks half an hour at 18 degrees with the curtain and nothing condenses.
Should I be worried or is it OK?

Water appears with temperature differences. In cars, it also flows under the car.

Aaa, it surprised me that instead of a tube, it was from a device hanging on the wall
Today, with a friend who has been for years, he said that it was running down the wall somewhere ), we cleaned the filters, the purged aggregate outside the window. It came and nothing escaped.
I have the impression that I blocked the curtain before and that's why !?

It could be that the water flew where it was more comfortable.

So as long as there is no mushroom smell, he can use it without stress?
OK thanks.

Check the drain pipe from the indoor unit for blockage. At high temperatures, the indoor unit may give off even about a liter of water per hour, as there will be a problem with its discharge, the water will overflow through the condensate tray. (the condensate tray in LG is not approx. 1 cm high)

And how to get to this tray, is it difficult?
There are 3 screws on the front in view under the curtain.

You unscrew these screws about 8cm from the sides of the indoor unit. at the bottom there are latches you pull down, we're talking about the bottom of the housing.
Check the condensate drainage efficiency for me it looks like the tray overflows because the drain is clogged.

mirek301 wrote:

At high temperatures

and air humidity

mirek301 wrote:

the drain is clogged.

I do not know about Poland, but I have a constant problem with some amoebas clogging the condensate drains in home air conditioning. It helps after cleaning, pouring the container - tray with hydrogen peroxide.

So. By unscrewing these screws, I can remove the housing that surrounds the air conditioner from top to bottom with a hole for filters and a curtain.
Today I will, I hope to get to this trough finally.
I have a question, and can I run the air conditioning with this housing removed? I'd look at the condensate path.

You can. Just don't put your fingers in the fan

3 screws at the bottom and 3 latches at the top. It turned out that the gutter was very narrow. 1 drain hose was connected on the right side. On the left, the hole was plugged with a plug.
There was advice at the local store to treat it with caustic soda and a good compressor but I didn't take advantage of it. The snake turned out to be clogged, but it let go under the force of its lungs I put a 16mm tube in the second outlet and it is hanging under the bowl.
Today's air conditioning test passes OK, nothing is dripping. We'll see later at higher rates.

It could and certainly detached when removing the case. otherwise your wall would be flooded. And as for the clogging of the condensate, I recommend that you pour over the condensate trays with hydrogen peroxide once in a while, as tested and mentioned earlier. There may also be a perhydrol

So. It was poured with hydrogen peroxide (100ml) but I noticed that the water flow was difficult even though it was fine - the condensate is not pouring out yet, but it is blowing and there is some resistance.
Visual inspection revealed no algae or green color.
I think I will have to disassemble the pipes going outside to the gutter (~ 3m. 16 / 22mm pipes and elbows) and push it through with a spring with a smaller cross-section.
I don't want it to suddenly run down the wall while I'm gone, hmm

You need to check the patency, but also make sure that the condensate is constantly falling, the water will not flow uphill. Look, maybe there's a siphon somewhere.

So
There are 2 outlets from the gutter. One was already and it worked for a week, until suddenly there was water again on the carpet and it was dribbling. I pushed the electric mattress pump and it's OK now.
On the other hand, I took out the cork (it was clogged) and put in a 16 / 22mm hose that hangs in the bowl and with the straightened pipe there is no problem at all!
After the season I will disassemble this problematic outlet and clean the elbows.
What is the thinnest snake I can give? Now there are two 16s, will the 6mm be able to lead it away efficiently?

I will refresh the topic of LG G12AH, I have a smell problem this season. maybe it does not smell like a frog, but after less than half an hour of work, you can feel a sharp, almost odorless figure in your nose and it forces you to turn off the air conditioning.
This foam is enough to disinfect the indoor unit and the entire condensate path in it Atas Clim ?
Or maybe something stronger on chlorine, so to speak?

She should. However, I use RTU or when the more neglected indoor unit for decontamination of hospital rooms is working checked. It is not aggressive to metals or plastic. Effectively destroys fungi and bacteria. I advise you to rinse well before cleaning it up. Condensate exchanger and trays if that's the effect you have. When doing a survey of the average for rinsing, I use about 5 liters of water. Not counting what is fumigation.

mirek301 wrote:

or when a more neglected in-patient deconstruction unit is running proven.

Up, it turns out I have it at home such a measure of clinexa is it the same or similar?

With this rinse with water, I do not know how to apply, maybe with a spray bottle?

May be. As for rinsing, it is best to use a garden pressure sprayer. You spray after. The exchanger with a feeling from the top to the bottom, the water will flow into the condensate tray by itself, as you have a drain, it will flow out. Do not regret water later, with a fungus remover, you do not have to rinse.

Now I will take care of the indoor unit, leave the outside after the season and then thoroughly everything
When using Clim foam I first rinse with water, then foam and then water again or no fuss, i.e. only 1st foam and 2nd water ??

In this video I can see that I should not regret water :)



Edit! Added after 15 [hours] 3 [minutes]:

OK. Housing removed. Filter, front casing, shutter covered with dust, so to the bathtub. I had nothing else, so a bottle of Mazovian with a hole must be enough. Evaporator / lamellas (right?), A fan and under a few liters of warm water with a little washing-up liquid, ehh, something went wrong. I will say that no solids and other bugs come out, only slightly dirty water - probably not bad
When it dries a little, I will treat it all with Clim foam.

Edit again:
In photo 1: the right drain [2] goes to the outside and at the level of the window sill horizontally to the gutter and here, unfortunately, a small siphon is probably made because mostly water escapes but with a larger wave it will leak from the inside of the device . I added a left drain [1] and this one down with a thick pipe! straight into the bucket
Photo 2 is the left internal drain, it works and never fails, but you must not forget to pour it out of the bowl
On the third lamellae, this is the gap between the lamellas, so fairly clean :)

1. 2. 3.

Foaming and interesting observations. I applied a layer of 2-3 cm and nothing, only after I fired it for about 2 minutes, it was absorbed as you can see in the photo.
Pany, how long to wait to use the air conditioning? And I wonder if I should repeat the foaming because it smells pungent.
4.

Edit ...

This slightly dirty water is dust, mites and fungi. I don't use foam. I don't waste any time on it in home appliances. Water and pressure sprinkler for the garden, or a small 2-3 liter or one with a 5-8 liter lance. One 8 liter should be enough after that decontamination fluid and that it is partially on alcohol no longer. After not pouring the water, it will last longer. I use foam rather in small amounts, but after cleaning the air-conditioner in the car. Then ozonation and peace for half a year. Currently, LG recommends at least 2 inspections and removal of mold a year. Depends on the intensity of use of the device. As for the outdoor unit, blow the coil fins with compressed air. Then you can wash it off with water and detergent. Just be careful that the water does not flood the electronics board. If the smell persists, use a more aggressive agent. That's why I use hospital chemistry, sometimes RTU. For 11 years I have not had a complaint about any smells or the overflow of condensate, even when the air conditioners. They operated in hairdressing and beauty salons where, as you know, many years in the air .. Let you know what the final effects are.

All in all, it was good for the 2nd day. The air-conditioning system cooled well, reacted efficiently to selected programs and the most important pungent smells disappeared
We use air conditioning occasionally on hot days - like now, a few hours a day and not in the morning but in the afternoon.
I promise I will follow your advice - it makes sense. I will do 2 service after the summer season, I will buy a good watering can.

ps. and this hospital chemistry is going to get somewhere?

Yes, you can buy it, I will give you the details of what I use and where I am buying. With the services it is like using the air-conditioning as heating in the fall season. These two inspections are even mandatory. In order to get rid of fungi and mites from the exchanger, as you know, they like heat and moisture. What I give you is from my own many years of practice. Coming back to the topic, if you do not use the unit for heating, it is enough to fumigate after the cooling season and only before the next season rinse the exchanger with a delicate dose of fungus, but if you have time, there are really two fumigations with thorough washing and rinsing of the exchanger. It does not hurt, and thus the situation will not repeat itself. Write to me on priv if the external unit has the inscription. Smart Inverter or Inverter V Because from a certain date of production Outdoor units have a factory defect that is easy to remove by yourself and avoid unsealing of the outdoor unit.

mirek301 wrote:

the unit has an inscription. Smart Inverter or Inverter V

Well, I did not find these subtitles and I can see in the commercials that you can see from a distance.

On the AC plate it is the model: as-h126rka2.

This is what I use.

Added after 5 [minutes]:

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mirek301 wrote:

Smart Inverter or Inverter V Because from a certain date of production Outdoor units have a factory defect that is easy to remove by yourself and avoid unsealing of the outdoor unit.

Could you share this knowledge with others on the forum? Please.
I'm curious myself what's going on. Such information can be very useful in service practice,

They are probably those with aluminum condensers. The compressor casing was rubbing the aluminum tube and there was a leak.