Best Cable Type for 20-30m Distance Garage/Workshop with 2.8kW Compressor, Fan & Lights

Hello.
I am building a garage and I need information on which cable to use for electric power.
The distance between the garage and the house is about 20-30 meters.
A compressor will work in the garage - Power: 2.8kW, fan 145 [W] 0.62 [A], a dozen or so fluorescent lamps and maybe some electric heater in winter.

Some information is missing.
Single-phase or three-phase power supply.
Installation as it will be located between buildings.
Are you planning to increase the power by 6kW, will the connection conditions allow it, what will be the total balance of power consumption.

tetrusmorderca wrote:

I need information on which cable to use for electrical power

Quote:

The selection of cables requires checking the following conditions:
- mechanical strength,
- long-term current carrying capacity and overload capacity,
- selection for short-circuit conditions,
- selection due to voltage drop,
- selection due to protection against electric shock,
- selection based on the requirements of the minimum cross-section of the PEN conductor or the conductor made of aluminum.

Quote:

The operation of the electrical installation (including the implementation of assembly works) may only be performed by persons who have a valid Qualification Certificate for the operation of electrical devices.

kokapetyl wrote:

Some information is missing.
Single-phase or three-phase power supply.
Installation as it will be located between buildings.
Are you planning to increase the power by 6kW, will the connection conditions allow it, what will be the total balance of power consumption.

Electricity is black magic to me.
I'll bury the cable.
I don't know if one or three-phase ... And what should it be?
I do not know what the total balance of power consumption will be. I only know what will work in the garage.

tetrusmorderca wrote:

Electricity is black magic to me.

Rather, surgery or dentistry is also black magic.
But somehow you don't cut yourself with a pocket knife and tear your teeth out with pliers.

So get an electrician.

zbich70 wrote:

tetrusmorderca wrote:

Electricity is black magic to me.

Rather, surgery or dentistry is also black magic.
But somehow you don't cut yourself with a pocket knife and tear your teeth out with pliers.

So get an electrician.

I was counting on someone who would know what cable to do it without spending money on an electrician. I can connect myself. I just don't know what cable to use.

Buddy, how are we going to help you if you don't want to help us. It is impossible to advise without the basic data asked by colleagues. If the earth cable is not exposed to damage, then YKy ...

tetrusmorderca wrote:

I was counting on someone who would know what cable to do it without spending money on an electrician.

Read post # 3. Provide the conditions that this cable is to meet.
You can't go without it.

Unless you want a glass ball. Here you go, my bullet tells you - YAKY 4x70mm?.
It suits? Does it seem too fat?
If too thick, please tell me why my glass ball is wrong.

Bury YKY 5x6 mm?, it should be enough for you, but then call an electrician to secure everything properly

Moderated By Krzysztof Reszka:

3.1.11. Publishing posts that do not contain substantive content with harmful advice.

maziar1000 wrote:

Bury YKY 5x6 mm?, it should be enough for you, but then call an electrician to secure everything properly

Buddy, justify why 5 x and why 6mm2.
We are waiting for an answer because you are misleading our friend.

tetrusmorderca wrote:

Electricity is black magic to me.
I'll bury the cable.

tetrusmorderca wrote:

I am building a garage and I need information on which cable to use for electric power.
The distance between the garage and the house is about 20-30 meters.
A compressor will work in the garage - Power: 2.8kW, fan 145 [W] 0.62 [A], a dozen or so fluorescent lamps and maybe some electric heater in winter.

In my opinion, our colleague should only answer at what depth this cable should be buried, and therefore what groove it should dig. The selection of the cable and possible earthing should be performed by a qualified person.

maziar1000 wrote:

Bury YKY 5x6 mm?, it should be enough for you, but then call an electrician to secure everything properly

What extreme bullshit advice !!!
After the fact, you can "secure" yourself - but a lawyer, when the layman works miracles for you. Unless you do all the same and you do it for a bottle ... there is no topic.

The layman can at most:
- make the excavation to a certain depth along the route designated by the electrician,
- make forging in walls and grooves in places designated by an electrician,
- deliver sand for the slope to the excavation and help the electrician distribute it evenly,
- unwind the cable and lay it in a trench, in culverts and furrows - but under the supervision of an electrician, so as not to injure the cable from time to time,
- deliver sand to the mound and help the electrician to distribute it evenly,
- cover with native soil about 25 centimeters, and compact it,
- lay a warning foil and cover the trench with native soil to the end, compact it in layers and finally level the area, as well as sow grass or rebuild the surface,
- fill the losses in culverts and furrows with gypsum or other building compound.

Only a layman can do if he wants to save on costs when making cable routes ...

Krzysztof Reszka wrote:

maziar1000 wrote:

Bury YKY 5x6 mm?, it should be enough for you, but then call an electrician to secure everything properly

Buddy, justify why 5 x and why 6mm2.
We are waiting for an answer because you are misleading our friend.

Do you think it's not enough? Loosely estimating the energy consumption and the distance given by the author, this section is sufficient. On the other hand, a larger cross-section would have to mean even greater consumption, but I do not think that the connection capacity would be sufficient. I added that he would then call an electrician to choose the security measures for him in the garage itself. I don't believe anyone came and said that in this case this cross-section is too small.

Moderated By retrofood:

Instead of justification, go on. A colleague has no knowledge of the principles of installation, does not know the criteria for selecting cables and misleads others. Warning. Point 3.1.11 of the forum regulations.

maziar1000 wrote:

Do you think it's not enough?

I do not think so.
But the colleague did not answer the questions.
Why 5 wires and not 4, why 6 mm2 from what calculation did it come up?

maziar1000 wrote:

On the other hand, a larger cross-section would have to mean even more wear

What, buddy, use electricity, maybe copper in the cable. Dude, hold back on writing on a topic you don't master.

Krzysztof Reszka wrote:

Buddy, justify why 5 x

I already wrote it.
Because it will be possible to install in 3 phases. In the future.
Without digging up and laying a new earth cable.

Distinguish between working for yourself and a project according to your requirements.
This is not a final project.

A colleague of maziar1000 would write how he would do it.

CYRUS2 wrote:

Krzysztof Reszka wrote:

Buddy, justify why 5 x

Because it will be possible to install in 3 phases.

Quote:

and why 6mm2.

Little 5 x 6?
This is enough for home use in the garage.
This is not a machine shop.
House - it can be expected to have a 3-phase installation.

So now you explain to me what 5 wires are for and answer the question why not YAKY 4 x 16, since it is a much cheaper variant.

tetrusmorderca wrote:

I can connect myself.

You are lying. Why ?

tetrusmorderca wrote:

Electricity is black magic to me.

tetrusmorderca wrote:

I was counting on someone who would know what cable to do it without spending money on an electrician.

This is an attempt to kill garage users.

CYRUS2 wrote:

Krzysztof Reszka wrote:

Why 5 wires and not 4, why 6 mm2 from what calculation did it come up?

Would a colleague assume 4 veins instead of five?

I would not put it on, and it would drive! The fifth wire is completely redundant, because at this distance, both PE or PEN must be earthed in the garage! And if so, what the hell is the fifth person in the world?

CYRUS2 wrote:

retrofood wrote:

So now you explain to me what 5 wires are for and answer the question why not YAKY 4 x 16, since it is a much cheaper variant.

Are you sure the switchboard at home has TN-C?

What does it matter what's in the house? What comes to the house is important, let's leave the house alone.

retrofood wrote:

What does it matter what's in the house? What comes home is important.

If TN-S is connected to the switchgear, then you will not make PEN from N.

CYRUS2 wrote:

retrofood wrote:

What does it matter what's in the house? What comes home is important.

If TN-S is connected to the switchgear, then you will not make PEN from N.

Krzysiek, who brings the TN-S switchgear to and from where? You theorize strongly now.

@ CYRUS2 How can you be sure that the installation will be connected to TN-S and not to TN-C?
If it will be TN-S or TN-C, what's the difference, since the 5th wire will not be needed, unless, hoping for a stroke of luck, we think about the activation of the RCD, but how can you know about it, since the author did not provide any details data, and in fact, I would not like to have a garage and a house under a common RCD, because if it is to protect it, it often causes unnecessary problems, especially with a long cable buried in the ground.

In my opinion, the lack of an entry by the author of the topic means that it should be closed until he answers the questions asked, which, by the way, does not mean that he should do it himself, because at best he will hurt himself and not others, then yes he will have a lot of problems.

By the way, clarifying the demands would also be useful.

tetrusmorderca wrote:

a dozen or so fluorescent lamps and maybe some electric heater in winter.

It turns out that these several fluorescent lamps will be faster and cheaper to buy 6 halogen fittings, 500W each, and this heater is not a 2kW farelka, but a three-phase storage heater ...

So, Dear author, be more specific and answer ALL the questions that have been raised in the topic, and we will try to advise you on what to choose, which does not mean that you should connect it yourself, since as you suggested yourself:

tetrusmorderca wrote:

Electricity is black magic to me.

greetings
Matthew

I often see 5x taken from boxes in the border, even from projects, so it's not even theorizing. How do you know that from the switchgear and not some "boxes / sockets"? How do you know there's TN-S there? Nothing is known at all.

serwisor wrote:

In my opinion, the lack of an entry by the author of the topic means that it should be closed until he answers the questions asked, which, by the way, does not mean that he should do it himself, because at best he will hurt himself and not others, then yes he will have a lot of problems.

By the way, clarifying the demands would also be useful.

I will try to find answers because I don't know them at the moment. So again ... What exactly do you need to know to advise me well?
After your answers, I decided to take an electrician, but only to connect the installation. I'll run the cable myself.

Gentlemen, all of you theorize. After all, it limits it within the house, so let it be placed at this distance, because a larger cross-section is unnecessary in this case.

Ps. On Saturday, in my warehouse, a guy picked up almost 200m of 5x4mm2 yky to power the horse stables and the same amount of utp for cameras. When I asked him out of curiosity who advised him like that, he said that the electrician who was doing this installation for him.

tetrusmorderca wrote:

After your answers, I decided to take an electrician, but only to connect the installation. I'll run the cable myself.

Mistake.
Get an electrician now and not just to connect.
There is nothing worse for an electrician than a customer who "carved" something on his own and calls only to be connected.
Such clients are deleted twice or three times, because you have to exercise three times in order to comprehend what the customer has done.

See post # 12 - invite an electrician now, agree what he does and what you can do yourself.

serwisor wrote:

@ CYRUS2 How can you be sure that the installation will be connected to TN-S and not to TN-C?

I am not sure, therefore I am writing about 5 veins.

Quote:

How will TN-S or TN-C be, what's the difference,

A big difference because there is no PEN in a switchgear powered from TN-S.
You can't make TN-C with TN-S.

Quote:

since the 5th wire will not be needed, unless we are hoping for a stroke of luck that the RCD will trip,

5th is always needed in 3f. And it's not about the RCD at all.
I omit the symmetrical 3-phase receiver.
Why 3 phases and not one phase?

tetrusmorderca wrote:

A compressor will work in the garage - Power: 2.8kW, fan 145 [W] 0.62 [A], a dozen or so fluorescent lamps and maybe some electric heater in winter.

If one phase is additionally loaded with a welder and a heater, it will not supply anything more from this phase.

CYRUS2 wrote:

I'm not sure

Exactly. So why a discussion when you don't know anything?

The fifth wire is spare if someone has a problem with it
If someone asks what for? And what does it matter is the stock and that's it.
By the way, since the author decided to bury the cable himself, let him write what, because I'm curious what he chose himself

Unfortunately, I missed a lot of time. Bronek, in fact, the answer fell from the hands of a friend.

retrofood wrote:

The fifth wire is completely redundant, because at this distance, both PE or PEN must be earthed in the garage! And if so, what the hell is the fifth person in the world?

Remember that our author does not mention anything about the type of network, so where to make such optimistic assumptions that you should give 5 x cable. As for the cross-section, probably with the mentioned lack of the network type, its minimum cross-section can be easily selected as the cross-section for the TN-C network.
And here I asked our friend to explain to us his misconceptions.

Hello.
It took a while, but it worked. I had to learn a bit and do a lot of research on the Internet. I put the YKY 3x4mm cable in a gray conduit at a depth of 60cm. Before I buried the cable, I consulted three electricians what cable to use. I ran the entire institution on my own, except for connecting to the switching station at home - this was done by an electrician. I had a 25A security in the box on the street, which was far too little. After applying for an increase in power, the protection was exchanged for 40A without any problems.

I would like to add that only the compressor and lamps work in the garage at the same time, which together gives less than 4.8 KW, and usually 4.5 KW, because some of the lamps are turned off. When I use other devices, the compressor is not working. I heat the garage with a gas heater.