Choosing Between Bosch HBA43S360E (3.38kW) and HBA74R150E (3.58kW) Ovens with 3kW Connection Power

Gentlemen, please help me.

I am renovating the kitchen and want to replace the built-in oven. The problem is that in my apartment I have a connection power of 3kw and two ovens, which I take into account Bosch HBA43S360E - 3.38 kw and BOSCH HBA74R150E - 3.58 kw
I received information that there should be no problems and the oven will run, but I cannot use the kettle at this time because they will blow the plugs. I am not satisfied with this information because I do not want to spend money on something that may not work for me.

I would prefer the second model with a connection power of 3.58 - because this oven has pyriolysis, but I also do not know if during such cleaning the oven does not draw maximum power and for 2 hours how the cleaning process will take place - will my installation handle it?

Does it matter when choosing between 3.38 and 3.58 kw? whether these 0.20 kw is no longer a difference.
Can I have such an oven connected?
Does it matter if the oven will be connected to the plug? If not for a plugin, how to defend it?

On my fuse box it says 230 V, 30 mA, 25 A and I have 4 fuses marked B10 S191 230/400 V.

I don't know anything about it, that's why I'm asking for help!
Thanks in advance

You should apply for an increase of power to 5kW. This involves a fee for the missing 2 kW. You will learn everything in the energy sector.
In addition, circuit protection by 10A is too low for a 3.5kW receiver.
We do not know the reason why a protection of this value was used, so maybe (I suggest) waiting for you to bring a new circuit dedicated to the oven because the cross section of the existing circuits may be insufficient. And besides, the receiver above 2kW must be powered by a separate circuit.
I suggest an electrician who will assess the installation status on site.

Thank you for your answer.
Time is chasing me a little, so energy is not an option because I will probably wait long for it and next week I will have a kitchen fitted. And if I decided on this 3.38 kw oven, would it be okay? You write that 10A is too low for a 3.5 kW receiver - maybe below 3.5 kw will be okay? And I wouldn't have to bring a new circuit?
Does the possible introduction of a new circuit require forging in the walls along the entire length of the cable or is it just adding some fuse ?? Do you realize that bringing such a circuit is associated with a high cost?

It is not known what the value of pre-meter collateral is. I assume that 16A is a weak 3.7kW. Theoretically, the oven will "fit in" with a ridiculous 200W reserve for other receivers.
But work on the edge of power usually ends in darkness that I will not mention unsuccessful baking.

Guidelines from the Bosch HBA43S360E manual.
The device without a plug may only be connected by a specialist with appropriate electrical qualifications. The warranty does not cover damage resulting from improper connection.
As a colleague wrote above, it would seem to order an electrician to have a guarantee.

zbich70 wrote:

It is not known what the value of pre-meter collateral is. I assume that 16A is a weak 3.7kW. Theoretically, the oven will "fit in" with a ridiculous 200W reserve for other receivers.
But work on the edge of power usually ends in darkness that I will not mention unsuccessful baking.

And where can I find this value of pre-meter security? Assuming I have 16 A - maybe it would be enough to choose an oven with 3.38 kw connection power - then work would not be at the limit of power?

I mean a quick solution and no additional stinging in the walls.

Added after 4 [minutes]:

Krzysztof Reszka wrote:

Guidelines from the Bosch HBA43S360E manual.
The device without a plug may only be connected by a specialist with appropriate electrical qualifications. The warranty does not cover damage resulting from improper connection.
As a colleague wrote above, it would seem to order an electrician to have a guarantee.

The equipment will be connected to me by a person with authorization from the company from which I order the kitchen. I just do not want to allow the situation that it is only when connecting the equipment that it turns out that the oven I have chosen is not suitable for connecting on my site, or this connection will be associated with several days of waiting and will be cut off from the possibility of cooking with a small child.

Colleague, no offense but certain things can not be skipped, since you are preparing to connect and use receivers with increased power then you must meet certain conditions in your case the implementation of the installation that meets the conditions for connecting a receiver with increased power. There is nothing to save and you will not miss it anyway.

You have a 10A breaker, it limits you the most. The oven at full power will last from 50 to 1000 seconds.

Justyna994 wrote:

I am renovating the kitchen and want to replace the built-in oven.

Renovation begins with the installation, then the walls and furniture later.

You start from the back, but some already do.


Really pulling a separate circuit under the oven and increasing the power in ZE at a later date.

Added after 1 [minutes]:

Secondly, you have a gas stove, because few people cook in the oven every day.

niewolno2 wrote:

Colleague, no offense but certain things can not be skipped, since you are preparing to connect and use receivers with increased power then you must meet certain conditions in your case the implementation of the installation that meets the conditions for connecting a receiver with increased power. There is nothing to save and you will not miss it anyway.

This is not about money unless it is half the price of the pie I mean time. That is why I am asking you professionals if I am able to bypass the new installation somehow. However, I can see that I won't miss it.

You won't miss a new installation, if you don't, you'll later "hang dogs" that you haven't listened to what industry colleagues advise. A local vision on site by a "kumaty" electrician will dispel your doubts.

Justyna994 wrote:

That is why I am asking you professionals if I am able to bypass the new installation somehow. However, I can see that I won't miss it.

You can not do. With us, "Społem" has great pastries and even cheap.

The implementation of the new installation is pikuś. Start with:

kkas12 wrote:

You should apply for an increase of power to 5kW. This involves a fee for the missing 2 kW.

[quote = "Stream of Holy Consciousness"]

Justyna994 wrote:

I am renovating the kitchen and want to replace the built-in oven.

Renovation begins with the installation, then the walls and furniture later.

You start from the back, but some already do.


I will tell you that the renovation is ongoing. This oven does not give me peace and imagine that even when I called Bosch Service they told me that this oven will work, I am only to avoid switching on additional equipment at the same time because it can blow plugs. It still doesn't give me peace, so that's why I'm writing here to be able to react before assembling the kitchen. So it's not like I start from the end. In addition, not one woman and not one man (because with whom I do not speak nobody knows about it) - they would simply buy an oven and I will, however, look for the answer to the question bothering me.

Justyna994 wrote:

but I am looking for the answer to my question.

So how many times do you need to repeat? Are you doing renovation and want to leave such a crap in the walls? And what, do you need an oven for tomorrow? So where have you all been so far?

As you can see, I have similar arguments, only the opposite of yours. And as far as I know, even Solomon didn't pour it out of empty.

The solution is this.
Pull into a 3x2.5 switchboard to the oven.
Pull into a 3x2.5 switchgear on the kitchen worktop sockets - kettle, equipment.
Pull into a 3x2.5 switchgear on the fridge
In addition, 5x2.5 can for the kitchen for any induction hob.
This is to be in the switchboard.

This wiring is universal.
By switching to 3-phase power supply, you don't need to change anything in the kitchen's power allocation.

Justyna994 wrote:

when I called Bosch Service they told me that this oven would work, I just have to avoid switching on additional equipment at the same time because it can blow up traffic jams.

Did someone from Bosch service visit your site and see the installation? I do not think so. Probably you gave them the same information as in the forum, that is, the connection power is 3kW and on this basis they determined that "somehow-maybe" will work. And that "plugs can dump" is no longer their worry, because the warranty does not cover "dumps." It's important to sell the equipment.

As noted earlier, you need an independent electrician hired by you, not an oven seller.
But since the kitchen is already finished and renovation is at the last stage of furniture assembly, there is little that can be done.
Unless the layout of the rooms (partition walls) allows it and the adjacent rooms are waiting for renovation, it may be possible to connect the missing circuit without forging the finished kitchen.

[Quote = "retrofood"]

Justyna994 wrote:

but I am looking for the answer to my question.

So how many times do you need to repeat? Are you doing renovation and want to leave such a crap in the walls? And what, do you need an oven for tomorrow? So where have you all been so far?

As you can see, I have similar arguments, only the opposite of yours.


You know what such comments are unnecessary. And if you had read all my answers, you would have read that I wrote about the fact that I see that I WILL NOT DO without calling an electrician. If I wanted to bet on shit, I wouldn't look for help here. It's easy to judge someone and get excited about something if you are a specialist. You want it, we will talk about vibrations, spreads, investment funds, bonds etc., we will see how many times you will have to repeat something. So just don't let me know if my questions irritate you.

EVERYTHING THANK YOU FOR USEFUL INFORMATION.
Added after 7 [minutes]:

zbich70 wrote:

Justyna994 wrote:

when I called Bosch Service they told me that this oven would work, I just have to avoid switching on additional equipment at the same time because it can blow up traffic jams.

Did someone from Bosch service visit your site and see the installation? I do not think so. Probably you gave them the same information as in the forum, that is, the connection power is 3kW and on this basis they determined that "somehow-maybe" will work. And that "plugs can dump" is no longer their worry, because the warranty does not cover "dumps." It's important to sell the equipment.

As noted earlier, you need an independent electrician hired by you, not an oven seller.
But since the kitchen is already finished and renovation is at the last stage of furniture assembly, there is little that can be done.

Sure you are right, I gave the same information on Bosch website, but for me it is black magic.
Maybe it is not so bad because on Monday and Tuesday there will be a plumber and hide pipes in the wall. So maybe you can get some good electrician quickly.

Justyna994 wrote:

I mean a quick solution and no additional stinging in the walls.

There is no such solution.

Justyna994 wrote:

Imagine that even when I called Bosch Service they told me that this oven will work, I just have to avoid turning on additional equipment at the same time because it can blow plugs.

Do not call the websites, you know the basics of mathematics, so from 3kW subtract 3.5kW and come out how much you miss, I do not want to believe that before baking you will turn off all the receivers especially TV when the husband watches the match

We do not know the status of your installation, but 10A protections may indicate that it is impossible to connect devices with such high power, it may end in eternal darkness and fire in the apartment. We do not even know if the wires between the meter and the switchgear in the apartment have the required cross-section.
It is necessary to assess on site whether installing the oven will involve the replacement of WLZ and you definitely need to bring a new circuit from the switchboard, preferably not only from the oven but also other kitchen appliances.

Do as above, buy an oven, ask the supplier to increase the power to 5kW, until the increase in power (it will not last half a year) use the oven sparingly and after a month you will forget about the topic.

Quote:

Maybe it is not so bad because on Monday and Tuesday there will be a plumber and hide pipes in the wall. So maybe you can get some good electrician quickly.

Since there is still a plumber to work in your kitchen, this is the perfect opportunity to change the electrics. And I advise you to do it with all my heart. At least lay the additional wiring according to what someone wrote a few posts above.
Unfortunately, at present the kitchen is the most power-consuming room (oven ~ 3.5 kW, induction hob ~ 7 kW, kettle ~ 2 kW, coffee maker ~ 2 kW, dishwasher ~ 2 kW (when heating), a good blender is ~ 0.5 kW Unfortunately, in the old days no one predicted such a load on the installation (stove + oven were gas), water for coffee was boiled on gas, no one dreamed of a dishwasher and the largest power eater was a fridge (about 300 W = 0.3 kW).

Now add all these kW values for devices you own or intend to own and compare the result with your 3.7kW power allocation. How much is missing

What's more, you write that you have 10A protection behind the meter. Unfortunately, it is only 2.3 kW (I know, they can withstand a little more but they work at the limit). Now you will turn on the kettle, the fridge will start working, you will come up with the idea that you will whip the cream in the ice cream and turn on the blender. And what ? And "I see darkness !!! I see darkness !!!". Maybe I exaggerated - Lighting goes from another fuse.