Audi A3 1.9TDI - Disturbing whistling of the turbocharger at idle

Hello,
I have an Audi A3 1.9TDI 74kw from 2001.
I cleaned the variable geometry of the turbocharger because it went into service mode / seared steering wheels.
In addition, it turned out that the turbine actuator was damaged, i.e. it did not hold the pressure.
I managed to clean everything and fold them together.
Impellers do not have any play.
I replaced the actuator with a new one and set it with a vernier caliper in accordance with the previous one.
After the operation the car does not enter the service mode and speeds up nicely.
Unfortunately, I'm worried about her whistle that had not occurred before.
After starting the engine occurs after about 8 seconds, then the steering wheels are certainly set to MAX.
[Film: 53aeb3a3d6] https://filmy.elektroda.pl/12_1487190651.mp4 [/ film: 53aeb3a3d6]

Can actuator regulation help?
Possibly how to approach the subject and what may be the reason for excessive "howling".
The car has no catalyst.


The car started smoking blue
[Film: 53aeb3a3d6] https://filmy.elektroda.pl/96_1488323176.mp4 [/ film: 53aeb3a3d6]

I thought that it was letting the turbine through, however, after dismantling the EGR elbow


And a look at EGR


Well, unplug the pipe that goes to the IC dry - only where I marked in red is oil


Does Odma give such symptoms?

You do not have a kata, you can hear it better, if the rotors are disassembled for cleaning purposes, they should be balanced. Blue smoke must be sniffed, otherwise it smells of burned oil and otherwise badly burnt the crust (injections) and here is the place where I say "I do not like dizli because they stink and I do not like especially how it goes in front of me". Generally, if you did not rotate the rotors, I would not care - not the first one who yells.

Rick69 wrote:

Unfortunately, I'm worried about her whistle that had not occurred before.

Because as the steering wheel was set to low efficiency, the turbine did not spin at a standstill, and you did not hear it because you were cutting out the catalyst.

Rotors were not dismantled - only variable / I did not move them at all.
The car was already without kata / unfortunately. It is strange that the diagnostic station is in a normal level - strange ..
I'm wondering about this smoking.

Rick69 wrote:

only variable

Yes, but if the coo was let go and the blades were baked it could not be full performance from the bottom of the rotation and the rotor did not have such revolutions as now.

DYmienie this smoking you will see the driver.

I noticed that in the place where he was a catcher and currently the pipe appeared oil - as if leak from a leak.
Currently, I leave clouds of blue smoke while driving - and the oil drains out.
And I see that in the inflow, i.e. the broken pipe that goes from the air filter / connects with the refuse and zips on the part of the cold turbine - it is moist.

Rick69 wrote:

It is strange that the diagnostic station is in a normal level - strange ..

The NOx level is not measured, in the case of diesels only the smoke - for which the catalyst has no effect.

Rick69 wrote:

Currently, I leave clouds of blue smoke while driving - and the oil drains out.
And I see that in the inflow, i.e. the broken pipe that goes from the air filter / connects with the refuse and zips on the part of the cold turbine - it is moist.

Turbine for scrap.

For scrap?
But should not the oil be in the IC or in the pictures in this case?
In the pictures, the circuit is probably sucked in so if it was a turbo, it would be wet?

Because in this from the air filter it rather draws air than letting it out, so perhaps it could be the odmie?

I understand it well?
If I am not asking for improvement.

Odma is not guilty of wind turbine cutting - this is one of the signs of its wear. The hoot is usually either a hole in the intake, or just destroyed turbine bearings and rotors start to whistle, losing balance.

Rick69 wrote:

But should not the oil be in the IC or in the pictures in this case?
In the pictures, the circuit is probably sucked in so if it was a turbo, it would be wet?

And if it lets go only the hot side, it all goes in the exhaust, the intake will be clean. Did not you hit the rotor when cleaning?

The turbine howls, among other things, because I do not have a catalyst. There is a freer flow of air.
As for the damaged bearings - I am able to accept this but I have already heard some of these types of howls.
That's why I wonder if this is actually the reason.

I think I did not damage anything while undressing, let alone the rotor.
I have such a suspicion that he can only release the hot side [if it is possible] because, as I wrote above, I see the oil on the weld after kata.

In that case, what should I do? Regenerate / buy a new one [I think unprofitable].
What can happen if I do not do anything about it?

Rick69 wrote:

The turbine howls, among other things, because I do not have a catalyst

Rubbish colleague.

Rick69 wrote:

As for the damaged bearings - I am able to accept this but I have already heard some of these types of howls.
That's why I wonder if this is actually the reason.

So think about it:

Rick69 wrote:

In that case, what should I do? Regenerate / buy a new one [I think unprofitable].
What can happen if I do not do anything about it?

An empty side of the cold, you will give away the whole car for scrap, because the engine is not more worth paying to exchange.

In that case, the turbine to be replaced ...
Some recommended workshop?
The worst is that it is variable.

Rick69 wrote:

In that case, the turbine to be replaced ...

Unfortunately.

Rick69 wrote:

Some recommended workshop?

This is probably not the right forum for such questions.

Rick69 wrote:

The worst is that it is variable.

Well, it's a consuming, almost exploitative element. Remanufactured prices for allegro start at PLN 700, new approx. PLN 1,500 PLN.
KKK type BV39 - http://www.turbosprezarki-nowe.pl/ford/galaxy...295001s_7683295003s_7683295011s_76832990.html

Basic question - how much can you drive on such symptoms?
Of course, the answer is - because it can pass at any moment ..
But basically, without burning the turbine, is there any chance of a longer ride?

Rick69 wrote:

Basic question - how much can you drive on such symptoms?

As short as possible.

robokop wrote:

An empty side of the cold, you give up the whole car for scrap,

It's a fact.
Unless it strangles on the run before the engine "runs out".
How long will he ...

In that case turbo to exchange ...

In sum..
Some time ago I cleaned the variable geometry of the turbocharger because the car caught the proverbial notlauf. It turned out that the pear was also a replacement. After cleaning the entire deposit, including the entire intake, Icek, EGR and all pipes and putting up to 300km was ok. Turbine began to operate in full range and whistle. Unfortunately, the car started to smoke and actually it is blue. I came back to the subject and what turned out .. I bought a car without a kata and in a place where it should be leaking oil .. So I suspected that the turbo lets go in the exhaust. After undressing the intake from ICek dry pepper but from the hot side I see oil on the connection, so I suspect that the turbo is passing from the other side. In the intake from the side of the pneumothorax as you can see puddles of oil. In addition, the sump begins to leak. I already have a fixed turbine regeneration, but if I do not catch the problem, regeneration will not do anything and I will slaughter a new one faster than later.


I thought to do so ...
- Check the pressure on the cylinders, i.e. in what condition is the engine that there is so much oil in the coke,
- If the pressure is normal, install the "oil catch tank"
- Clear the arrival time again,
- Replace the oil pan / possibly clean because it can leak because the seal is unsealed,
- Do not clean the exhalation because the oil will burn out and what I know washing can not do much.
- And then only regenerate the turbo