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Twin Piston Compressor Air Escape Issue: Identifying & Fixing Leaks in Parts 1 and 2

amzet 9954 10
Best answers LABEL_AI_GENERATED

How can I identify and fix the air leak in a twin-piston compressor, and should I clean or replace part 1 or part 2?

The leak is most likely either the non-return valve (part 1) or the decompression solenoid valve (part 2): the non-return valve can be unscrewed and cleaned, but the solenoid valve usually needs a gasket/seal replacement, and if that part is unavailable the whole valve may need replacement [#16317756] [#16319508] [#16320107] Tighten all nuts first, because vibrations can loosen them and cause leaks [#16317756] If the compressor is hissing only at startup and then mostly seals itself, that still points to a valve/seal issue rather than a constant tank leak [#16317756] If oil appears around the compressor, it may indicate that one compressor unit needs inspection or repair [#16317756]
AI summary based on the discussion. May contain errors.
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  • #1 16314955
    amzet
    Level 9  
    Posts: 173
    Rate: 14
    Hello.
    I am a layman in these matters - I have a small problem with a twin piston compressor.
    I don't know where the problem of escaping air is. I always release my breath after a day of work.
    This is where air escapes - 2? I unscrewed, cleaned (it was slightly soiled with oil) when I manually clog after unscrewing, as if air escapes from place # 1.
    After a few charging and deflating cycles - as if something was cleaning / sealing - the air ceases to leak strongly.
    Gently escapes / hisses, when filling the tank at the beginning of the day the air escapes strongly and loudly.
    Should I spin, clean, buy place # 1?
    Is the problem in No. 2 - if I cleaned - you need to buy a new part No. 2?
    I have no idea what it is called and what the tasks are.
    Twin Piston Compressor Air Escape Issue: Identifying & Fixing Leaks in Parts 1 and 2
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  • #2 16315019
    ALIBABA I
    Level 33  
    Posts: 2610
    Help: 223
    Rate: 537
    Hello. from what you write I have the impression that you have a collar cut, I mean, you must have so-called kelicharka and cutting knife without filings, you did not specify where you are from, no matter how you buy a set for it? is it worth it? you will pay 20 zlotys to the refrigerator and you will be after the problem

    Ps. will make you a second and a cup
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  • #3 16315028
    amzet
    Level 9  
    Posts: 173
    Rate: 14
    ALIBABA I wrote:
    Hello. from what you write I have the impression that you have a collar cut, I mean, you must have so-called kelicharka and cutting knife without filings, you did not specify where you are from, no matter how you buy a set for it? is it worth it? you will pay 20 zlotys to the refrigerator and you will be after the problem

    I don't understand. Collar? Chalice? Where is it at? What should I do ? To the refrigerator? So what should I remove to take him to show?
    ps.
    Why is entering a town important?
  • #4 16315699
    Krzysztof Reszka
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    Posts: 10574
    Help: 609
    Rate: 1551
    amzet wrote:
    This is where air escapes - 2?

    amzet wrote:
    like air escaping from place No. 1.

    We see that there is a problem with the diagnosis of the location of the leak. I advise you to buy a leak test spray (in every major market) to find out where it is.
    Unscrew and check the place.
    http://wiko-technika-klejenia.pl/product/spray-do-wyszukiwania-nieszczelnosci
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  • #5 16317033
    amzet
    Level 9  
    Posts: 173
    Rate: 14
    Krzysztof Reszka wrote:


    We see that there is a problem with the diagnosis of the location of the leak.

    I don't know, not really - this is not a continuous leak after about 3 cycles of charging the tank with air as if there was a sealing or self-cleaning and no longer permeates place 1 or 2. I do not know the principles of operation of these places - maybe they are dirty with oil?
  • Helpful post
    #6 16317756
    vcc
    Level 35  
    Posts: 3052
    Help: 163
    Rate: 466
    After removing it, you can see that WAN-T, i.e. 2x pump 136, 1 is a check valve, both compressors get air there and enter the tank, when there is a hissing valve leaking and letting air out, No. 2 is a decompression solenoid valve, opens at the start of the compressor so that the engine could be easier to start, as it is there, it is a gasket replacement. At the beginning I suggest to tighten all nuts because they like to relax from vibrations. As oil appears at the compressor, it is a sign that one compressor needs review / repair.

    UP, besides, you can see that there is no oil in the compressor eyelets - I dare say how it is done :D
  • Check valve and decompression solenoid leak diagnosis

    #7 16319028
    amzet
    Level 9  
    Posts: 173
    Rate: 14
    vcc wrote:
    After removing it, you can see that WAN-T, i.e. 2x pump 136, 1 is a check valve, both compressors get air there and enter the tank, when there is a hissing valve leaking and letting air out, No. 2 is a decompression solenoid valve, opens at the start of the compressor so that the engine could be easier to start, as it is there, it is a gasket replacement. At the beginning I suggest to tighten all nuts because they like to relax from vibrations. As oil appears at the compressor, it is a sign that one compressor needs review / repair.

    UP, besides, you can see that there is no oil in the compressor eyelets - I dare say how it is done :D


    Someone knows, thanks for the help, I will work on it well, maybe it's a gasket.
    Can the place 1- be unscrewed and cleaned?

    So maybe it is slightly oil-permeable, because it sweats a little - 2. What should a renovation look like? Pistons for demolition review and possible regeneration? Who does this
    Is the gasket in the solenoid valve somewhere bought?

    There is oil in the eyelets - it was replaced for fall last year and the compressor was standing all winter, it worked only a little in the fall. The eyes are replaced with new and Housing clean oil.
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  • Inspect solenoid gasket, connector, and compressor internals

    #8 16319508
    vcc
    Level 35  
    Posts: 3052
    Help: 163
    Rate: 466
    You need to look for the gasket for the solenoid valve in the net, although it rarely happens that it releases, sooner at the connector releases, as for the renovation, as you have the idea to unscrew, verify the condition of the bushings, sleeves, pistons, rings, you can do the renovation yourself because it is a simple compressor in construction .
    The non-return valve can be unscrewed and cleaned
  • #9 16319823
    amzet
    Level 9  
    Posts: 173
    Rate: 14
    Does this photo show anything? The condition of this seal is ....? Twin Piston Compressor Air Escape Issue: Identifying & Fixing Leaks in Parts 1 and 2
  • Helpful post
    #10 16320107
    vcc
    Level 35  
    Posts: 3052
    Help: 163
    Rate: 466
    It is for exchange
  • #11 16333031
    amzet
    Level 9  
    Posts: 173
    Rate: 14
    some master from compressors said that you need a new solenoid valve because such are no longer produced.
    Thank you for your help. It's all for now .
    greetings

Topic summary

LABEL_AI_GENERATED
The discussion revolves around diagnosing and fixing air escape issues in a twin piston compressor. The user experiences significant air leakage, particularly after charging cycles, and seeks advice on whether to clean or replace specific components. Responses suggest using a leak test spray to identify the source of the leak, tightening all nuts due to potential loosening from vibrations, and checking the condition of the check valve and solenoid valve. The solenoid valve may require replacement, as it is suggested that the current one is no longer produced. The user is also advised to inspect and possibly clean the non-return valve and consider gasket replacement for the solenoid valve.
AI summary based on the discussion. May contain errors.
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