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[Solved] Bleeding Frog Car Lift: Resolving Oil Leakage & Actuator Issues (Main Cylinder O-Ring Replacement)

grzegorz041 50919 14
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  • #1 17473195
    grzegorz041
    Level 13  
    Hello to all forum members. I know that the topic has already been rolled several times, I have read all the topics, but I still can't cope with my lift.
    The hoist started leaking on the main cylinder. So I drained all the oil, unscrewed the `` baniaczek '', took out the actuator and changed the o-ring, because it was a bit damaged. I washed everything nicely with gasoline, flooded with hydraulic oil and the hatch! The lift is splashing with oil through the hole in the `` baniaczku '', but it has no intention of pushing the actuator.
    I tried to add oil through the piston, through the actuator dropper - it did not work. After all, I did not take apart anything else, and the lift worked, only it was leaking!
    I took apart the plunger, all other moving parts; there are two balls, a spring and a mushroom. I washed it, put it back together and history repeats itself ...
    maybe I am making a venting error somewhere? Or maybe somewhere else on the way ....
    I feel sorry to throw him away - he used it so much, and he had nothing special to say ...
    I attach photos of the lift;
    Attachments:
    • Bleeding Frog Car Lift: Resolving Oil Leakage & Actuator Issues (Main Cylinder O-Ring Replacement) P1130130.JPG (2.82 MB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
    • Bleeding Frog Car Lift: Resolving Oil Leakage & Actuator Issues (Main Cylinder O-Ring Replacement) P1130298.JPG (2.73 MB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
    • Bleeding Frog Car Lift: Resolving Oil Leakage & Actuator Issues (Main Cylinder O-Ring Replacement) P1130297.JPG (2.63 MB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
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  • #2 17475058
    saskia
    Level 39  
    Why are you checking it without the reservoir cap?
    Pour it with oil, plug it with a plug, pump it in a horizontal position until the piston extends.
    How a few cm will come out. then put it vertically with the actuator down and unscrew the screw to lower the jack and push the piston.
    The air should go to the reservoir through the valve for lowering the jack.
    To be sure, repeat the venting twice, i.e. pump in a horizontal position, and vent in a vertical position with the piston down.
    If air in the lines does not allow the pump to suck oil, this can be purged by manually pulling the piston while pumping, then suction on the piston will draw oil into the pump.
    Of course, you need to bleed later as above.
    Well, unless our leak between the cylinder and the tank.
  • #3 17476763
    grzegorz041
    Level 13  
    Thanks a lot. Only when I put the cork on, the pressure pushes it all the way up to the ceiling. But I have not tried this method yet. I will try today ...
  • #4 17476793
    saskia
    Level 39  
    grzegorz041 wrote:
    Thanks a lot. Only when I put the cork on, the pressure pushes it all the way up to the ceiling. But I have not tried this method yet. I will try today ...

    If the pressure in the tank increases significantly, the pump may suck air through the valve to lower the jack.
    Tighten it a little harder before inflating.
    Such a pump without oil is not very tight and can then suck air even through the o-ring, especially if you used gasoline for rinsing, so you degreased all surfaces, which makes them not very tight.
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  • #5 17477985
    grzegorz041
    Level 13  
    I see. Only the cork throws away with the oil. I probably poured too much ...
    I have a moment only on Saturday, so I'll do it. He will apply your advice ....
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  • #6 17479785
    grzegorz041
    Level 13  
    One more question. There is a valve on the side with a mushroom, screw and spring in it. It says 'Do not adjust'. I tried to translate but I don't know what that means. Should I tighten or loosen it somehow?
  • Helpful post
    #7 17481883
    saskia
    Level 39  
    "Do not addjust" means not to regulate, so don't mess with it.
    This is what you made the knife do, and that's why the jack doesn't work.
    It is possible that it is some kind of safety valve that does not allow the jack to overload.
    If you damaged it, maybe it is not holding the wall and the oil from the pump comes back to the reservoir instead of pressing it on the plunger.
  • #8 17481956
    grzegorz041
    Level 13  
    Yesterday I tired the jack a bit, unfortunately with poor results ...
    As for this valve, everything is as it was - 100% undamaged. Of course, it was taken apart, but I put it back together exactly as it was. But should it be tightened all the way or should there be some slack?
    And how much oil to pour into it. Just by eye, or the right amount?
  • Helpful post
    #9 17482161
    saskia
    Level 39  
    Maybe you did something wrong or too little when folding it and the oil escapes from the cylinder into the reservoir.
    Remember that oil is denser than air and even with a small leak, the pump will suck air through the leak more easily than oil.
  • Helpful post
    #10 17482227
    kkknc
    Level 43  
    The screw you weren't supposed to touch was adjusting the pressure valve.
    When you started, unscrew it, clean it and screw it completely. See then. Then it will have to be adjusted.
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  • #11 17483338
    grzegorz041
    Level 13  
    Screw clean and fitted. I tightened it all the way. I tried to bleed as you advised. In fact, the horizontal piston goes about 2 cm. forward. I turn it vertically and something splashes and moves like air and oil.
    When you press down on the plunger, it really bulges the rubber plug and wants to push it out. In addition, the piston that is pumped fires to the upper extreme position. Is it normal?
  • Helpful post
    #12 17483351
    kkknc
    Level 43  
    Without twisting the plunger. Assume what it should be like and the end is to work.
  • Helpful post
    #13 17484275
    saskia
    Level 39  
    grzegorz041 wrote:
    Screw clean and fitted. I tightened it all the way. I tried to bleed as you advised. In fact, the horizontal piston is about 2 cm. forward. I turn it vertically and something splashes and moves like air and oil.
    When you press down on the plunger, it really bulges the rubber plug and wants to push it out. In addition, the piston that is pumped fires to the upper extreme position. Is it normal?

    When pressing the plunger, keep the plunger pressed down so that the air does not accumulate in the pump, because later when you pumping again, you will push it back into the cylinder.
    The air in hydraulic systems acts as a spring which causes delays in the operation of the piston and various other problems, e.g. the problem with lowering the jack to the end of the lower position.

    If you vent the system properly, the plug will not be pushed out, because it is the compressed air from the cylinder entering the tank that causes the oil volume to increase.

    If, when turning the jack, you had the piston pressed all the way, and the pump with the piston pressed, then there would be no air there, and now it is a path to push it out.
  • #14 17485109
    grzegorz041
    Level 13  
    Thanks. You explained it to me very well, but I give up. Tried venting today for probably over 4 hours, with breaks for breakfast and lunch. Nothing of that. Normally it is a nightmare!
    He slips something in him and that's it.
    I called a guy from the Internet who regenerates such lifts. He said PLN 100. The new 120 ..., so it does not pay off. :(
    An exhibition on allegrosz, maybe someone will buy for a pittance .....
  • #15 17522554
    grzegorz041
    Level 13  
    The jack is sold. Case closed. Thank you for all hints and commitment ...

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around troubleshooting oil leakage and actuator issues in a Bleeding Frog car lift, specifically focusing on the main cylinder O-ring replacement. The user reports persistent oil leakage despite replacing the damaged O-ring and cleaning components. Forum members suggest various methods for venting air from the hydraulic system, emphasizing the importance of proper oil levels and avoiding air intake through leaks. Concerns about a pressure valve that should not be adjusted are raised, with advice to ensure it remains undisturbed. Ultimately, after extensive troubleshooting, the user decides to sell the malfunctioning lift, indicating the challenges faced in resolving the hydraulic issues.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Bleeding a bottle jack typically takes 2 vent cycles; "repeat the venting twice" to purge trapped air and stop oil splash. Keep the cap on, pump horizontally, then vent vertically. [Elektroda, saskia, post #17475058] Why it matters: It guides DIY bottle‑jack owners to fix oil leakage, bleeding, and relief‑valve issues safely.

Quick Facts

How do I bleed a Frog/bottle car lift after replacing the main O‑ring?

Use this 3‑step method:
  1. Fill the reservoir and cap it. Place the jack horizontal.
  2. Pump until the ram extends a few centimeters.
  3. Stand it vertical, actuator down. Open the lowering screw and push the ram to vent. Repeat twice. If the pump won’t prime, gently pull the ram while pumping to draw oil in. [Elektroda, saskia, post #17475058]

Why is oil splashing out of the reservoir while I pump?

Trapped air compresses in the system and then expands into the tank during venting. That expansion displaces oil and causes splash. Keep the plunger depressed during venting so air cannot accumulate in the pump. Proper bleeding removes the springy air pocket and stabilizes level. [Elektroda, saskia, post #17484275]

My jack wont lift after an O‑ring change did I misadjust the Do not adjust screw?

Yes, that screw is part of the safety/relief valve. If misadjusted or damaged, pressure bleeds back to the reservoir. Then the pump won’t build pressure on the ram. Leave it at factory setting and avoid tweaking it during service. Restore correct seating and re‑test after a proper bleed. [Elektroda, saskia, post #17481883]

What does the side mushroom‑valve with spring actually do?

It adjusts the pressure‑relief function. This limits maximum load and protects the jack from overload. If you disturb it, the pump can dump oil back into the reservoir. That prevents lifting entirely. Clean it, re‑seat it, and only adjust with proper guidance or test gear. [Elektroda, kkknc, post #17482227]

How much oil should I add and what oil type should I use?

Fill with dedicated hydraulic jack oil (Typical: ISO 32 AW). With the ram fully retracted and jack upright, fill to just below the bottom of the fill hole. Do not overfill. Wipe spills, reinstall the plug, and bleed per the manual before use. [Torin, 2021]

The pump wont prime and only draws air how can I force oil into it?

Cap the reservoir and place the jack horizontal. While pumping, gently pull the ram outward by hand. This creates suction at the pump and draws oil into the circuit. Then perform the vertical vent step and repeat the cycle twice. [Elektroda, saskia, post #17475058]

I rinsed components with gasoline; could that cause air leaks?

Yes. Gasoline strips lubrication and reduces sealing. That lets the pump pull air past O‑rings until oil re‑wets them. "Such a pump without oil is not very tight." Reassemble, lubricate with jack oil, cap the tank, and bleed thoroughly. [Elektroda, saskia, post #17476793]

Why does the piston shoot to the top after refill?

Air trapped in the hydraulic path acts like a spring. It compresses while pumping and then releases energy, extending the ram suddenly. "The air in hydraulic systems acts as a spring." Keep the plunger depressed during venting to prevent air re‑entry. Repeat the bleed cycle. [Elektroda, saskia, post #17484275]

How tight should the relief valve screw be if I already moved it?

Remove, clean, and then screw it fully seated to re‑establish a baseline. Test the jack under a known load after bleeding. Only adjust further if needed and with proper caution. Incorrect settings will bypass pressure and stop lifting. [Elektroda, kkknc, post #17482227]

What if bleeding fails repeatedly what else should I check?

Suspect internal leakage between the cylinder and reservoir. Also ensure the lowering valve seals and the cap is tight during priming. Without a good seal, the pump can suck air rather than oil. Prime by pulling the ram while pumping, then bleed again. [Elektroda, saskia, post #17475058]

How do I know I overfilled the reservoir?

Signs include a bulging rubber plug and the plug getting pushed out during pumping. Oil may spray from the fill hole. Reduce the level to just below the fill port with the ram fully retracted, then re‑bleed. [Elektroda, grzegorz041, post #17477985]

Can I bleed the jack with the reservoir cap open?

Do not. Cap the reservoir while pumping so the pump cannot suck air through the lowering path. Prime horizontally, then vent vertically with the actuator down and the lowering screw open. Repeat the cycle to purge air completely. [Elektroda, saskia, post #17475058]

During horizontal bleeding, how far should the piston extend?

Expect only a small movement at first. Users report around 2 cm during the initial prime. That is enough to proceed to the vertical vent step. Continue the bleed cycle until motion becomes smooth and consistent. [Elektroda, grzegorz041, post #17483338]

Is repair worth it compared to buying a new jack?

In this case, a pro rebuild quote was PLN 100 while a new unit cost PLN 120. If troubleshooting fails after extensive attempts, replacing may be more economical. Consider time, safety, and reliability when deciding. [Elektroda, grzegorz041, post #17485109]
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