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[Solved] Bleeding Frog Car Lift: Resolving Oil Leakage & Actuator Issues (Main Cylinder O-Ring Replacement)

grzegorz041 47868 14
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Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
  • #1 17473195
    grzegorz041
    Level 13  
    Hello to all forum members. I know that the topic has already been rolled several times, I have read all the topics, but I still can't cope with my lift.
    The hoist started leaking on the main cylinder. So I drained all the oil, unscrewed the `` baniaczek '', took out the actuator and changed the o-ring, because it was a bit damaged. I washed everything nicely with gasoline, flooded with hydraulic oil and the hatch! The lift is splashing with oil through the hole in the `` baniaczku '', but it has no intention of pushing the actuator.
    I tried to add oil through the piston, through the actuator dropper - it did not work. After all, I did not take apart anything else, and the lift worked, only it was leaking!
    I took apart the plunger, all other moving parts; there are two balls, a spring and a mushroom. I washed it, put it back together and history repeats itself ...
    maybe I am making a venting error somewhere? Or maybe somewhere else on the way ....
    I feel sorry to throw him away - he used it so much, and he had nothing special to say ...
    I attach photos of the lift;
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  • #2 17475058
    saskia
    Level 39  
    Why are you checking it without the reservoir cap?
    Pour it with oil, plug it with a plug, pump it in a horizontal position until the piston extends.
    How a few cm will come out. then put it vertically with the actuator down and unscrew the screw to lower the jack and push the piston.
    The air should go to the reservoir through the valve for lowering the jack.
    To be sure, repeat the venting twice, i.e. pump in a horizontal position, and vent in a vertical position with the piston down.
    If air in the lines does not allow the pump to suck oil, this can be purged by manually pulling the piston while pumping, then suction on the piston will draw oil into the pump.
    Of course, you need to bleed later as above.
    Well, unless our leak between the cylinder and the tank.
  • #3 17476763
    grzegorz041
    Level 13  
    Thanks a lot. Only when I put the cork on, the pressure pushes it all the way up to the ceiling. But I have not tried this method yet. I will try today ...
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  • #4 17476793
    saskia
    Level 39  
    grzegorz041 wrote:
    Thanks a lot. Only when I put the cork on, the pressure pushes it all the way up to the ceiling. But I have not tried this method yet. I will try today ...

    If the pressure in the tank increases significantly, the pump may suck air through the valve to lower the jack.
    Tighten it a little harder before inflating.
    Such a pump without oil is not very tight and can then suck air even through the o-ring, especially if you used gasoline for rinsing, so you degreased all surfaces, which makes them not very tight.
  • #5 17477985
    grzegorz041
    Level 13  
    I see. Only the cork throws away with the oil. I probably poured too much ...
    I have a moment only on Saturday, so I'll do it. He will apply your advice ....
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  • #6 17479785
    grzegorz041
    Level 13  
    One more question. There is a valve on the side with a mushroom, screw and spring in it. It says 'Do not adjust'. I tried to translate but I don't know what that means. Should I tighten or loosen it somehow?
  • Helpful post
    #7 17481883
    saskia
    Level 39  
    "Do not addjust" means not to regulate, so don't mess with it.
    This is what you made the knife do, and that's why the jack doesn't work.
    It is possible that it is some kind of safety valve that does not allow the jack to overload.
    If you damaged it, maybe it is not holding the wall and the oil from the pump comes back to the reservoir instead of pressing it on the plunger.
  • #8 17481956
    grzegorz041
    Level 13  
    Yesterday I tired the jack a bit, unfortunately with poor results ...
    As for this valve, everything is as it was - 100% undamaged. Of course, it was taken apart, but I put it back together exactly as it was. But should it be tightened all the way or should there be some slack?
    And how much oil to pour into it. Just by eye, or the right amount?
  • Helpful post
    #9 17482161
    saskia
    Level 39  
    Maybe you did something wrong or too little when folding it and the oil escapes from the cylinder into the reservoir.
    Remember that oil is denser than air and even with a small leak, the pump will suck air through the leak more easily than oil.
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  • Helpful post
    #10 17482227
    kkknc
    Level 43  
    The screw you weren't supposed to touch was adjusting the pressure valve.
    When you started, unscrew it, clean it and screw it completely. See then. Then it will have to be adjusted.
  • #11 17483338
    grzegorz041
    Level 13  
    Screw clean and fitted. I tightened it all the way. I tried to bleed as you advised. In fact, the horizontal piston goes about 2 cm. forward. I turn it vertically and something splashes and moves like air and oil.
    When you press down on the plunger, it really bulges the rubber plug and wants to push it out. In addition, the piston that is pumped fires to the upper extreme position. Is it normal?
  • Helpful post
    #12 17483351
    kkknc
    Level 43  
    Without twisting the plunger. Assume what it should be like and the end is to work.
  • Helpful post
    #13 17484275
    saskia
    Level 39  
    grzegorz041 wrote:
    Screw clean and fitted. I tightened it all the way. I tried to bleed as you advised. In fact, the horizontal piston is about 2 cm. forward. I turn it vertically and something splashes and moves like air and oil.
    When you press down on the plunger, it really bulges the rubber plug and wants to push it out. In addition, the piston that is pumped fires to the upper extreme position. Is it normal?

    When pressing the plunger, keep the plunger pressed down so that the air does not accumulate in the pump, because later when you pumping again, you will push it back into the cylinder.
    The air in hydraulic systems acts as a spring which causes delays in the operation of the piston and various other problems, e.g. the problem with lowering the jack to the end of the lower position.

    If you vent the system properly, the plug will not be pushed out, because it is the compressed air from the cylinder entering the tank that causes the oil volume to increase.

    If, when turning the jack, you had the piston pressed all the way, and the pump with the piston pressed, then there would be no air there, and now it is a path to push it out.
  • #14 17485109
    grzegorz041
    Level 13  
    Thanks. You explained it to me very well, but I give up. Tried venting today for probably over 4 hours, with breaks for breakfast and lunch. Nothing of that. Normally it is a nightmare!
    He slips something in him and that's it.
    I called a guy from the Internet who regenerates such lifts. He said PLN 100. The new 120 ..., so it does not pay off. :(
    An exhibition on allegrosz, maybe someone will buy for a pittance .....
  • #15 17522554
    grzegorz041
    Level 13  
    The jack is sold. Case closed. Thank you for all hints and commitment ...

Topic summary

The discussion revolves around troubleshooting oil leakage and actuator issues in a Bleeding Frog car lift, specifically focusing on the main cylinder O-ring replacement. The user reports persistent oil leakage despite replacing the damaged O-ring and cleaning components. Forum members suggest various methods for venting air from the hydraulic system, emphasizing the importance of proper oil levels and avoiding air intake through leaks. Concerns about a pressure valve that should not be adjusted are raised, with advice to ensure it remains undisturbed. Ultimately, after extensive troubleshooting, the user decides to sell the malfunctioning lift, indicating the challenges faced in resolving the hydraulic issues.
Summary generated by the language model.
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