[Solved] Modernizing Gravity Ventilation in 1980s One-Story Brick House with Humidity Issues

Hello, I have purchased a one-story house from the 1980s. Brick with a ceiling without thermal insulation. After replacing windows, I have a standard problem with indoor moisture. It is worst in the bathroom and kitchen. After replacing the windows, a humidity-controlled air inlet was installed in each window. Apart from the bathroom, of course.

I have gravity ventilation at home. It just seems to me that it is not as efficient as it should be and I wanted to modernize it. The situation is as follows. On the side of the house there is a chimney with three exhaust channels. There are three rooms on this wall: kitchen, boiler room and bathroom. The chimney is situated on the border between the boiler room and the bathroom. The boiler room and bathroom have direct ventilation connection to the chimney. In the kitchen, however, I have only one ventilation grille to which the hood is attached (now I know it's a big mistake). The hood is connected to the chimney with a spiro pipe. And here my question, right after crossing the ceiling, spiro goes diagonally to the exhaust chimney. Is that a good solution? The angle of the pipe is approximately 30-40 degrees. The spiro pipe is not insulated.

What to do to improve ventilation at home? Can I make a second lift in the kitchen? With what materials to do it? Ordinary spiro with insulation or maybe spiro stiff? Of course, now I'm going to insulate them properly. What about bringing the exhaust hood to the chimney? Can it go the way I described? Right after going through the ceiling at an angle of about 30-40 degrees to the chimney? The distance from the eaves to the chimney is about 3 meters.

I am asking for any suggestions on how to improve this situation? What to look for? Because I'm fed up with the fungus behind the furniture and steamy windows. Would insulating the building with polystyrene improve the situation?

A colleague was considering a possible installation of a recuperator?
https://www.rekuperatory.pl/rekuperacja-korzysci-i-oszczednosci

niewolno2 wrote:

A colleague was considering a possible installation of a recuperator?
https://www.rekuperatory.pl/rekuperacja-korzysci-i-oszczednosci

Yes, I considered this option, but in my case it is out of the question. Therefore, I would like to solve the problem with properly functioning gravity ventilation, I just need answers to the above questions.

The mushroom "behind the furniture" says that the wall is cold and that moisture is sprouting there. Not in the form of drops but in the form of a constantly wet wall. Warming from the outside first. In my case, with 15 cm of polystyrene, the temperature of the outer wall at a height of 1.5 m is about 2 degrees lower than the inner wall. At -15 outside. Measured with an IR thermometer. In addition, a wet wall has worse insulation and is even colder.

Buddy, it can be as you say. I am still wondering how to insulate the house. The situation for me is that the walls are built this way. Brick - empty channel - brick.

And now the question: when I change the roof and I have access to this channel, will it be a good idea to throw polystyrene into this channel?

Or maybe the only good solution will be external warming? And leave the middle empty? In total, I do not know if someone was building it or not if something was inserted there? But I suspect nothing will be there.

Additionally, what about ventilation? Wouldn't good ventilation eliminate this fungus from behind the furniture?

Are chimney drafts more expensive? Is there airflow through them in the right direction? Window vents are open everywhere, can you feel the cold air flooded with your hand? How many people live in this house?

The void between the walls is a few centimeters (4-6 depending on how someone is bricked up) and you will not put too much there - only granules are involved - you will not put boards because apart from excess mortar from bricklaying walls, every meter with a piece is a brick embedded across the wall connecting the wall internal and external.
It depends whether you would do it yourself or outsource it to someone, but in the case of a party, the costs of the material when insulating from the outside with a reasonable amount of styro (now the minimum is 15cm) are not large, and since it is a part-time student, even 1 person can handle it without any problems - it is important that Before that, think carefully and plan and, for example, extend the windows to the edge of the wall, removing the jamb.

Hello, I have commissioned a company to do the installation. First season installation. I'll see how it works in winter.