Junkers Maxipower 2 Wrdp 11-2B Error F0 After Cleaning Copper Inserts and Nozzles

Hello . I have Junkers Maxipower 2 Wrdp 11-2B. Once a familiar technician told me to clean it every two years. Well, I undressed the copper inserts which heats the water (rinsed it with water), and the nozzles I blew out with air. After folding, EA did not light up and you could hear the igniter trying to smoke and nothing. I called my friend, he said I could smash the membrane. I got to the membrane but it's all in. I folded it and now I get an error F0. After pressing the on off button, listen to the spark once and it lights up F0. I am asking for help, I have called the service technicians in my area and they can do it on Monday at the earliest.

EA means no signal from the ionization electrode. Maybe he unscrewed some cable? Maybe it's contaminated? F0 - I do not know very much. Maybe the stove (water system) has been infected. It should be (after replacing the membrane and any interference in the water unit, even after cleaning the filter) the stove should be vented. This is done by keeping the button on the stove in the "off" position. We unscrew the hot water taps (if the stove supplies both the bathtub and the sink or the sink, all of them), let go of water and wait for the water to flow out with a continuous stream, without "snorting" and breaks in the stream. Absolutely, you should not run a vented stove (if it was an old model, without such protection, it could burn out).

He was vented for sure. I will check the wires with a meter. Hmm ... I do not know. I also checked the resistance on the coils.

Added after 3 [minutes]:

Like this mistake
F0 / F7 - power supply was carried out with an open intake valve. But I do not think what's going on. I cleaned the electrodes with 800 paper

Replace the battery. Moisture no contact. Set the micro switch. Coils do not shut off the gas Ultimately the controller.

It works )) Thank you very much for helpful and quick statements. After the pictures found on the internet and of course hints I came to the point that I had mounted the electrode incorrectly (not in my place just too high) and probably that was the reason for the EA error. As for the error F0, I have replaced the batteries according to the suggestion of serwisszulborski.pl and have adjusted the microswitch.
I have one more question, one of the technicians pulled out a circular net between the upper coil and the nozzle, which is together with the electrode, saying that this grid creates only problems.
Honestly, I checked now and with the net was only about 4-5 leaps over the spark, and how I pulled it in. What is your opinion? greetings

Net photo:

I have a stove with a mesh, there was never a problem (my stove is just a stronger version - WRDP 14-2B). The grid should be. Maybe it was clogged, and so there was too little air in the candle (these stoves have a candle that only lights up for igniting the main burner - Vaillanty does not have a candle at all). The grid should be.

Thanks for all hints. I'm happy

Hello, can you tell me how to adjust the microswitch on which you write above? I have such a symptom with a heater: it normally fires but during work it can 2-3 times go out and start again later automatically. It looks to me like the water flow is too small and the stove goes out. This does not happen every time you start, it works more often all the time as the water is unscrewed. I'm not a professional, but it looks to me like the microswitch setting on the border of maximum water flow.

Welcome.
I'm not a specialist but from what I remember, I first undressed the micro switch to see how it is built (no policy) and the regulation is in the middle on such cloves. I unscrewed the switch and held my fingers from the top with a small screwdriver in the place marked with the arrow RED in the picture. You will hear a click while setting up. On the turned off junker let go water watching micro in the place of NIEBIEJKIEJ arrows switch if you do not hear clicks, that is, you have to move it slightly on the cloves. For me, this click can be heard practically immediately while letting go of water.

Clicks MAY BE HEARING immediately after letting go of water. If you hear a delay, it means that the "microbrew" is wrong (wrong adjustment, bad installation, wear). The assembly / disassembly of the micrusa is almost trivial, except that the screw that secures it to the stove is bad access.

Thank you very much for your help.
I dismantled the microswitch and I spent half an hour 'playing' with the regulation. (By the way, I turned off the gas when testing and when I tried to start with the micro switch, the stove would not fire.) He ticked, ticked and cackled.I got scared a little.But after some good parish thawing, I finally surprised and the flame fired. Since I closed the gas supply, when I tested the gas valve through the stove for the gas pipes, the air got in and it was probably aerated, I did quite a lot of tests, so I think it could have happened. so that after closing the gas they would wait longer for the stove to burn).

But I did not want to write about it. Namely, my problem has not completely corrected me. After unscrewing the water, it may not be immediately, just like Rusek wrote, you can hear a click from the "microscope", but this delay may last not half a second and you do not hear anymore during work to click, and yet the stove can go out and immediately tick, tick and fires back. And little of it can go off again and fire again. I had the case that something like this happened up to 4 times in a row. Water pressure is not big, because I do not know why (legislators fault the battery in the washbasin) the water does not fly there with some high pressure despite unscrewing to the max. But in the shower, for example, the pressure is higher and it can also go out (although much less often than when using the basin).
I realize that the topic is very difficult to diagnose, only through the forum, but maybe you can tell if the cause of the fading may be something other than a micro switch? Perhaps, despite my half-hour adjustment, it is not quite well set up anyway. Or maybe there could be another reason?

Check the ionisation electrode (it may be dirty or incorrectly set). In addition, there may be problems with the chimney draft or the draft sensor is defective (or incorrectly mounted). How old is this Junkers? If, for example, 10 it may be necessary to replace the diaphragm (theoretically, the diaphragms in these devices are durable, but with time it may happen that micropores, cracks are formed). There may be other reasons, but it is more complicated and requires an authorized Junkers service.

He warms the topic a little. I will rent an apartment in which there is a stove from the subject. After unscrewing the hot water, the stove does not turn on. If I keep the switch on after unscrewing the water, I start by holding the button warms if I let go immediately. Error on the F0 display. The contactor was adjusted correctly.

Probably something with a switch on the stove is not like that. Maybe contacts do not contact. In any case, it's not a microswitch or an ionization.

The cause may be low batteries?

they did not connect contacts when switched on.

I am currently having the same problem. What does it mean that "contacts did not connect when turned on"? Greetings.

The contacts connect the cables and there may be a connection problem somewhere and hence the problem

Today I redid the F0, oddly the 1.4V battery wouldn't fire. I bought new Duracell, after measuring 1.63V and it fires.

hello
I also have a Junkers Maxipower 2 WRDP 11-2B
The cooker doesn't start either, even the spark doesn't go out when the tap is turned on. Only a gentle rubbing of the microstroke starts the cooker up.
What could be the cause? It is obvious that the microstick needs to be readjusted, but what about the dripping water?

https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic4019733.html

the water connection cover to be replaced, or the resection itself

For me, cleaning the electrode and nozzle helped