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Rear View Camera Fails with Engine Running: Possible Voltage Issue?

Stifler07 87969 28
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How do I wire a rear-view camera so it still works when the engine is running and the alternator is charging the car?

Power the camera from a separate stable +12 V source, preferably from the fuse box or ACC, and use the reverse light only as the trigger/control signal for the radio or relay; do not power the camera directly from the reversing lamp [#16522216][#16354670][#16354732] If the car uses PWM on the reverse lights, a direct connection can cause relay chatter or video problems, so a relay or filter may be needed [#16989801][#16990659][#21013167] One user resolved the same symptom by feeding the camera from a separate fused supply and taking only the reversing-lamp signal for control [#16522216] Another solution was wiring 87 to a switched + after ignition, 85 to ground, 86 to reverse +, and 30 to the camera [#20364890] If you still have noise or instability, use a solid ground and, if possible, take the camera ground directly from the radio rather than from the lamp/body [#16989338][#21015591]
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  • #1 16354553
    Stifler07
    Level 10  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 28
    Hello

    There was already such a topic, but it was closed. I connected the rear view camera to the multimedia station. When the ignition is on and you shift the lever to the R position, the camera turns on and works beautifully. The problem begins when the engine is started. Then the camera does not work and the message "NO video signal" appears on the monitor. I connected via a relay - as suggested, and still the same. Has anyone encountered such a problem and knows how to solve it? My guess is that it is about increasing the voltage after starting the engine and running the alternator. How to eliminate this problem? Voltage stabilizer some or what ??? It is strange that when connected via a relay it is the same ...

    Please also check if the relay is properly connected: I will add that I did not pull a separate mass from the battery, but I borrowed the mass from the lamp. + I gave directly from the battery.

    Rear View Camera Fails with Engine Running: Possible Voltage Issue?

    Thank you very much in advance.
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  • #2 16354604
    Krzysztof Kamienski
    Level 43  
    Posts: 21874
    Help: 2029
    Rate: 5126
    What is this radio with a monitor in this car - this is the basic question ?? Fairies have holidays.
  • #3 16354630
    Stifler07
    Level 10  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 28
    Does it matter? If so, then the "rice" DVD / GPS multimedia station
    Such as here:

    Rear View Camera Fails with Engine Running: Possible Voltage Issue?

    Since it works fine after turning on the ignition, it is not really a matter of the display, but there could even be an ordinary LCD screen? Right or am I wrong?
  • #4 16354670
    Krzysztof Kamienski
    Level 43  
    Posts: 21874
    Help: 2029
    Rate: 5126
    You're wrong. Because to activate the camera, many multimedia stations have a special input activated by turning on the reversing lights ("rear"), and the camera is always powered - (after ACC).
  • #5 16354682
    Stifler07
    Level 10  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 28
    That's right. The control power supply from the rear light is connected to the "rear" control cable (in my case "back"). Otherwise it would not work after shifting to reverse with the ignition on. The problem starts when the engine is running. The controls are OK.
  • #6 16354732
    Krzysztof Kamienski
    Level 43  
    Posts: 21874
    Help: 2029
    Rate: 5126
    The power of the rear view camera is not to be connected to the rear light only to the ACC + On line, without any relays. It is done in such a way that with the heat it emits, and sometimes with an additional resistor - a heater, it de-iced in winter.
  • #7 16522216
    Stifler07
    Level 10  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 28
    Welcome back.

    I have successfully resolved the problem. The matter is very simple. Lamp cannot be connected to power. The power supply must be separate, preferably from the fuse box, making use of the free space and connect by inserting the fuse. (You can also, for example, from the cigarette lighter if someone has in the trunk). Only the controls for the reversing camera should be taken from the reversing lamp. Maybe it will be useful to someone. I saw somewhere in the movie how someone connected the power and control of the same cable and it worked. However, this is a MISTAKE !! It should be connected as I wrote above.

    Regards
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  • #8 16522227
    Polon_us
    Level 42  
    Posts: 6933
    Help: 1184
    Rate: 1277
    After all, my colleague Krzysztof Kamienski wrote about it clearly and twice ...
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  • #9 16858600
    Kuzik84
    Level 1  
    Posts: 1
    Rate: 3
    Hello ,

    It will heat the cutlet, namely the control wire is the one that is on the video cable so short red ????? (coming from the czincz)

    Regards
  • #10 16859873
    Stifler07
    Level 10  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 28
    Yes. That's right.
  • #11 16988808
    michul3k
    Level 10  
    Posts: 5
    Rate: 10
    Hello,

    I will tell my story, I count on your help - because I don't have the strength anymore.
    So this is how I bought android stations with a rear view camera. Previously, the webcam was connected to the station directly without a relay and it worked. I changed the station to a newer one. faster - but as it turned out, she is probably more sensitive, a few friends and opinions on the Internet helped me decide to connect the webcam via a relay.



    So, I found a diagram like this:
    Rear View Camera Fails with Engine Running: Possible Voltage Issue?



    I bought such a relay and a stand:
    Rear View Camera Fails with Engine Running: Possible Voltage Issue?

    I connected everything according to the scheme:
    87 - I connected the power supply from the cigarette lighter. which appears after ignition
    85 - weight from the car body
    30 - camera signal
    86 - signal from reverse

    The webcam seems to work - but the relay makes a strange voice that.
    1. Howls and humms softly when dipped headlights are on
    2. Hisses and buzzes loudly when the dipped beam headlamps are turned off

    Video:
    Low beam on for 18 seconds, engine running
    For 19 seconds, the dipped beam headlamps are off, the engine is running



  • #12 16989295
    piotrekwoj1
    Level 43  
    Posts: 10332
    Help: 927
    Rate: 3362
    Enter the camera type or description of the camera cables.
  • #13 16989300
    michul3k
    Level 10  
    Posts: 5
    Rate: 10
    This is what it looks like:

    Rear View Camera Fails with Engine Running: Possible Voltage Issue?
  • #14 16989338
    Polon_us
    Level 42  
    Posts: 6933
    Help: 1184
    Rate: 1277
    michul3k wrote:
    85 - weight from the car body

    If I were a colleague, I would choose a more reliable mass point.
    For testing purposes, could a colleague connect ground (85) directly to the (-) battery?
  • #15 16989801
    carrot
    Moderator of Cars
    Posts: 8375
    Help: 1304
    Rate: 3541
    What car do you mount it on? As the lights are pwm controlled, it will be circuses, connect directly to the reverse light switch on the gearbox, the relay can be bypassed
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  • #16 16989919
    michul3k
    Level 10  
    Posts: 5
    Rate: 10
    PWM? Auto to Seat Leon - 2008 r.
  • #17 16990047
    carrot
    Moderator of Cars
    Posts: 8375
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    Rate: 3541
    Well, see the same solution in Skoda Link
  • #18 16990237
    michul3k
    Level 10  
    Posts: 5
    Rate: 10
    But my reverse light works and the camera works - only this sound is wrong ..
  • #19 16990659
    piotrekwoj1
    Level 43  
    Posts: 10332
    Help: 927
    Rate: 3362
    michul3k wrote:
    But my reverse light works and the camera works - only this sound is wrong ..

    Precisely because it is a PWM control.
  • #20 16991586
    mateklos
    Level 23  
    Posts: 545
    Help: 50
    Rate: 186
    hello I have a similar set connected to xmomax rsu412 bt
    camera connected to the rear camera input one wire only plus connected to the reversing light. The mass has a circuit from the radio after the camera conducts. Everything works fine. Maybe you have the radio connected to the power supply and not the key from the ignition, there was such a problem for me. I had to change the power supply in the radio cube and that the radio would turn on only after turning the key, I had the power supply from the ignition switch and the same problem in the radios. from a market other than the European plus, the ignition switch is in the place of a permanent plus powered by this and only that. Swap those ERM wires with constant plus and it should work fine
  • #21 16992917
    michul3k
    Level 10  
    Posts: 5
    Rate: 10
    Despite the fact that the first relay was briefly checked and everything was ok, I bought the second relay and it is ok !!
    Some miracle, there is no such noise as with the first relay - the webcam works and it's OK. There is a slight buzz - like a current flow, but to hear it, you need to have a transmitter next to your ear.
  • #22 18462223
    gradek83
    Level 43  
    Posts: 9047
    Help: 925
    Rate: 2077
    michul3k wrote:
    The webcam works - but the relay makes a strange voice that.
    1. Howls and humms softly when dipped headlights are on
    2. Howls and buzzes loudly when the dipped beam headlamps are turned off

    And it's not sometimes the problem that his relay is not there a rectifier diode plugged in parallel with the coil ? Since the power supply is after PWM?
  • #23 20364890
    szpuleckijarek
    Level 1  
    Posts: 1
    Rate: 2
    hello, I had a case that after turning on the engine the camera did not work no signal but with the engine off and turning on the reverse camera worked and the solution is very simple I bought a car relay BLOW (4120) 12V / 40A for PLN 9 on Allegro description of how to pay 87 plus after ignition [permanent plus] 85 minus 86 plus from reverse 30 plus to the camera EVERYTHING WORKS Regards [url=https://obrazki.elektroda.pl/9487010600_1672729305.jpg]
  • #24 20689205
    wloczykij78
    Level 15  
    Posts: 159
    Help: 3
    Rate: 104

    Well, that's what I was looking for :-) Half a day yesterday I was fighting why this contraption doesn't switch on, and here you just (or maybe even) need the simplest relay (IMO, a weaker one is enough, 40A is a lot for a webcam). They should write to these recorders in the manual that without a relay, it is unlikely to work as it should. Tomorrow I am correcting the installation, I have a cigarette lighter socket in the trunk, it will do without messing around :-) . Of course, the camera housing should be grounded for it to buzz.
  • #25 20700610
    mateklos
    Level 23  
    Posts: 545
    Help: 50
    Rate: 186
    I recently connected the camera in Cruze from the cigarette lighter to the reversing light. All right. Plus is plus, so power is needed. Connecting issue.
    Cinch receiver - cinch camera plus camera and plus on cinch can be connected together, then it works.
  • #26 20700615
    piotrekwoj1
    Level 43  
    Posts: 10332
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    mateklos wrote:
    I recently connected the camera in Cruze from the cigarette lighter to the reversing light. All right. Plus is plus, so power is needed. Connecting issue.
    Cinch receiver - cinch camera plus camera and plus on cinch can be connected together, then it works.

    Well, but for the camera to work only when reversing, you probably don't connect it to the cigarette lighter. So not so plus is plus. In addition, the point is that if you have a control of burnt bulbs, connecting directly to the reverse lamp does not always work.
  • #27 21013167
    skopek
    Level 15  
    Posts: 143
    Help: 6
    Rate: 35
    Just make a filter on the camera power supply with:
    - 2200uF 25V capacitor
    - 104pF capacitor
    - 2.2k resistor
    - 2A diode

    Tested on a Peugeot 208 from 2013 with a similar case. Attached is a photo and diagram.
    Attachments:
    • Rear View Camera Fails with Engine Running: Possible Voltage Issue? B9CFA0F2-5558-42EA-8C95-6BF0BFFDAC42.jpeg (1.27 MB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
    • Rear View Camera Fails with Engine Running: Possible Voltage Issue? IMG_2768.jpeg (54.6 KB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
  • #28 21015367
    mateklos
    Level 23  
    Posts: 545
    Help: 50
    Rate: 186
    Yes, Mr. Piotr, if you have Control light, it will show that the bulb is burnt out.
    You have to think about it 🥰
  • #29 21015591
    analog_6
    Level 16  
    Posts: 319
    Help: 6
    Rate: 144
    skopek wrote:
    Just make a filter on the camera power supply with:
    - 2200uF 25V capacitor
    - 104pF capacitor
    - 2.2k resistor
    - 2A diode
    Tested on a Peugeot 208 from 2013 with a similar case. Attached is a photo and diagram.

    I would give 105pF ;)
    The electrical installation in cars is made for the designed receivers, i.e. lamps, engines, actuators. And not for sensitive audio and video signals. So, the camera ground should always come DIRECTLY from the radio (not from the bulbs or bodywork) and the power supply can come directly from the bulb (but not LED PWM), but it should be filtered using the signal ground from the radio. If someone doesn`t really understand what`s going on, take +12V from the radio connector. The camera can work all the time with the ignition on, it will be fine, even better because it won`t fog up. However, from the reversing lights you need to take a control signal informing the radio that the reverse light is on. And there is no point in trying anything else, unless there is also PWM in the power supply for the reverse lamp, it is not known why. But in new cars it is possible.

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around a rear view camera that functions correctly when the ignition is on but fails to display a video signal when the engine is started. Users suggest that the issue may be related to voltage fluctuations caused by the alternator. Solutions proposed include ensuring proper wiring, using a dedicated power supply from the fuse box instead of the rear light, and connecting the control signal from the reverse light. Several users report success after using a relay and recommend specific relay types and configurations. Additionally, filtering the power supply with capacitors and diodes is suggested to stabilize the camera's operation. The importance of grounding the camera directly to the radio rather than the body or bulbs is emphasized to avoid interference.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Alternator rise from 12.0 V to 14.4 V (≈20 % jump) can blank budget rear-view cameras; “Separate power and control lines” [Elektroda, Krzysztof Kamienski, post #16354732] Fix it with a fused 12 V feed, relay or filter, and solid ground. Why it matters: stable video during every start keeps parking safe.

Quick Facts

• Typical cranking voltage dip: 9–10 V; running voltage: 13.8–14.8 V [Bosch Handbook, 2021] • Low-cost CMOS cameras tolerate 10–15 V max; below 10 V they shut off [ON Semi, 2020] • 30/40 A automotive relay costs €2–€5 online (2024 prices) [Allegro Listing] • PWM bulb monitoring pulses at 100–400 Hz, 20–50 % duty [TI App Note, 2017] • DIY LC/R-C filter parts ≈ €3, <10 minutes solder time [Elektroda, skopek, post #21013167]

1. Why does the reversing camera show “NO video signal” once the engine is running?

Cranking drops battery voltage to 9–10 V and then the alternator overshoots to 14 + V. Many budget cameras shut down below 10 V and glitch above 14 V [Elektroda, Stifler07, post #16354553] The screen therefore loses sync and displays “NO video signal.”

2. How should I wire the power so the camera survives voltage swings?

Feed camera +12 V from a fused ACC or cigarette-lighter line, not the reverse-lamp wire. Leave the lamp wire only for the head-unit’s “BACK/REAR” trigger [Elektroda, Stifler07, post #16522216]

3. Do I really need a relay?

Yes when the reverse lamp line carries PWM or bulb-check pulses. A standard SPST 12 V/40 A relay isolates the camera and supplies clean battery voltage [Elektroda, szpuleckijarek, post #20364890]

4. Which relay pins go where?

Use the common Bosch layout: 1. 87 → fused +12 V, 2. 30 → camera +, 3. 86 → reverse-lamp trigger, 4. 85 → chassis ground [Elektroda, michul3k, post #16988808]

5. My relay buzzes—what’s wrong?

Buzz indicates PWM on pin 86. Add a 1N4148 or 1N5400 diode across the coil (band to +) to quench pulses, or replace the relay; a bad coil can also hum [Elektroda, gradek83, post #18462223]

6. What is PWM bulb monitoring and why does it matter?

Modern BCMs dim LEDs and test bulbs by pulsing 12 V at 100–400 Hz. The pulses shake relay coils and confuse cameras [TI App Note, 2017].

7. Can I filter the power instead of adding a relay?

Yes. Solder a mini filter: 2200 µF 25 V cap, 104 pF cap, 2.2 kΩ resistor, and 2 A diode in series. It blocks spikes and stores energy for <100 ms dropouts [Elektroda, skopek, post #21013167]

8. Where should I ground the camera?

Run ground back to the head unit or relay ground bolt. Body sheet-metal points corrode and raise impedance, causing image noise [Elektroda, Polon_us, post #16989338]

9. Edge case: What if my dash shows a “bulb out” warning after the mod?

Some BCMs throw an error when extra load exceeds 5 mA. Add a 50 Ω, 5 W resistor across the original reverse-lamp leads or re-enable bulb check via diagnostic tool [Skoda TPI, 2019].

10. How do I test quickly without soldering?

  1. Clip a 12 → 5 V USB car adapter to the camera harness. 2. Ignite ACC, shift to R. 3. If video stays on while engine runs, permanent wiring will cure the issue [Elektroda, mateklos, post #20700610]

11. Can constant power fog the lens?

Keeping the camera live with ACC warms the module 2–3 °C, reducing condensation in winter [Elektroda, Krzysztof Kamienski, post #16354732] Current draw is ≈70 mA, or 0.8 Ah per 12-hour day—negligible for a healthy battery [ON Semi, 2020].

12. Three-step permanent fix (5 min).

  1. Crimp in-line fuse holder to an ACC feed; insert 1 A fuse. 2. Wire feed to pin 87, camera + to pin 30, reverse-lamp trigger to pin 86, chassis ground to pin 85. 3. Heat-shrink all joints and secure relay with a zip-tie. Done.
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