Skoda Fabia 1.9 SDi: Warm Engine Starting Issues, Injector Cleaning, Dashboard Lights

Hi,

I have a problem with my motor when it is warm. My SDi fires even in the coldest frost without a problem, but after driving a dozen or so kilometers and turning off the car, it does not want to start. Then I have to wait a few hours for a reboot each time.
In the photo, it shows what lights are on on the board. I will add that the candle diode does not light when the engine is cold.

I also upload a video of how the ignition looks like with a warm engine.
While I turn on the ignition, I hear a characteristic click. Its source is on the left side of the engine.


Now I will describe the measures I have taken. First, I was advised that I had a problem with injectors and was told to use a diesel preparation that cleans the injectors. I tried, bought and poured half a bottle per tank. So I passed 6 tanks without any problems. As soon as I stopped pouring, I immediately had the same problem as at the beginning, I repeated the same attempt only this time with no effects.

- I connected the car to OBD2 and of course no errors, only the liquid temperature sensor was not working properly (it has not been working for 4 years)
-I even replaced the famous n109 relay and then the same.

Any suggestions?

kevine wrote:

only the liquid temperature sensor not working properly went crazy (not working for 4 years)

And that's what I would take care of first.
If you have the option, check if the controller can see the rotation during hot shooting.

OBD2 does not even connect if the engine is warm and the candle lights are on. There were also other computers connected and each had the same connection problem.
And as for the sensor, as you can see in the video, he wanted to work at that moment. I remember when I was going with a connected computer, it showed once normally 74 degrees C, once 24 and sometimes crazy and showed -14 degrees C

No connection may mean problems with the power supply of the controller, check if it is connected to the power supply and ground.

If it does not want to light, connect the solenoid valve on the pump directly to the "+" battery and see if it fires. And besides, the temperature sensor must be replaced. You can also see what this round electric cube on the left side of the engine looks like inside.

Added after 2 [minutes]:

Have you checked the n109 socket and fuses?

krzysiek7700 wrote:

Have you checked the n109 socket and fuses?

Fuses ok, socket seems okay too, relay tight. I also forgot to add that I replaced the relay 103.

krzysiek7700 wrote:

If it does not want to light, connect the solenoid valve on the pump directly to the "+" battery and see if it fires.

Just such a cable from clamps? Just catch this item as in the photo below described as a solenoid?

krzysiek7700 wrote:

And besides, the temperature sensor must be replaced.

I know it's for replacement, but is that a problem? Does it have to do with what has been going on with this car lately? I did over 90k km with a broken one.

The sensor should be functional because it distorts the ECU (engine controller).
Yes it is about this solenoid valve. There may be a cable with a crocodile clip. Fasten this screw from the solenoid valve and to the battery plus and then start the engine. When it lights up, we will know what to look for. To turn off the engine you will have to disconnect this cable from the battery.

Added after 4 [minutes]:

The cable does not have to be thick, just like the one for the solenoid valve.

krzysiek7700 wrote:

Fasten this screw from the solenoid valve and to the battery plus and then start the engine. If it lights up, we will know what to look for

It lights up without any problems when I connected with a cable between the "+" on the battery and the solenoid valve, but it went out normally from the key like something. What should I check or do next?

Check if relay 109 receives "+" and "-". The minus of the eku plus the fuse. But start by checking that big round cube by the engine. Maybe the temperature sensor will also be repaired when you unfasten it and spray it with, for example, WD40 or some similar specifics.

Added after 15 [hours] 14 [minutes]:

It may be useful

Hello and did you manage to deal with the heavy firing? For me it looks similar, only that I have a problem when spring mornings come warmer, summer and winter is ok.

The SDI motor is a simple and reliable motor. Treated well it is indestructible. The reason may be ridiculous and prosaic. Check the sealing of such a plastic triple in the fuel filter. Looks like it's power and fuel transfer. There is such a tiny O-ring and it is often the culprit of such ailments. I had such a problem and that was the cause. The cost of repair is 40 cents. The joy of repair is priceless.