FAQ
TL;DR: After a battery swap, wait 10–30 seconds for modules to "sleep"; sparking can corrupt configs. Check alarm cuts and grounds first. [Elektroda, tzok, post #16712251]
Why it matters: This FAQ helps Fabia I owners fix post-battery-change no‑start, immobilizer, and relay faults fast and safely.
Quick Facts
- Fabia I symptoms reported: flashing key icon, 1‑second start-then-stall, and codes 01177/17978. [Elektroda, osliczka, post #16708638]
- Aftermarket alarm cuts can disable crank/run; bridge the cut wires to test continuity. [Elektroda, CameR, post #16709453]
- Loose/rotted grounds, battery‑top fuses, or a loose clamp can stop ECU power. [Elektroda, robokop, post #16718867]
- Voltage chaff/sparking on reconnection can upset EEPROM; wait ~10–30 s after ignition-off before disconnecting. [Elektroda, tzok, post #16712251]
- Reverse polarity during battery work is a destructive edge case to rule out. [Elektroda, Mad Max, post #16711579]
Why won’t my Skoda Fabia I start right after a battery change?
Common causes are alarm cut circuits left open, poor grounds, blown battery‑top fuses, or ECU power glitches from reconnect sparking. Inspect the alarm bypass, tighten clamps, and re-seat ground eyelets. “Sparking power cables” can upset module memory, so power cycling methodically helps. [Elektroda, tzok, post #16712251]
What does error 01177 (Immobilizer) and 17978 (ECM blocked) actually mean?
01177 flags an immobilizer/authorization fault. 17978 indicates the engine control module is blocked by immobilizer. Together with a flashing key icon, they point to immobilizer authorization being denied after power loss. Expect cranking and brief firing, then stall. [Elektroda, osliczka, post #16708638]
The key icon flashes and the engine starts for one second, then dies—what’s that?
That is classic immobilizer behavior. The ECU allows a momentary start, then cuts injection/ignition when immo authorization fails. Users reported a one‑second run and repeatable stall after battery work. [Elektroda, osliczka, post #16718805]
How do I quickly test if an aftermarket alarm is blocking the start?
Locate the alarm’s starter or ignition cut wires. Temporarily bridge the two cut ends with a short jumper to restore the original circuit. Try starting again and remove the jumper after testing. “You will be 100% sure” if the alarm is not the cause. [Elektroda, CameR, post #16709453]
Could disconnecting the battery with ignition on corrupt ECU/BCM memory? What wait time is safe?
Yes. Voltage drop and reconnect sparking can scramble configuration writes. After switching ignition off, wait roughly 10–30 seconds for modules to enter sleep before disconnecting or reconnecting. This reduces EEPROM corruption risk during power transitions. [Elektroda, tzok, post #16712251]
I saw 17069 (ECM/PCM power relay control open circuit). What should I check?
Check the ECU power relay control path, battery‑top fuses, and harness continuity. Inspect the ground eyelets and the relay socket for looseness or corrosion. Intermittent open circuits can clear temporarily and return later. [Elektroda, osliczka, post #16708638]
Could reversed battery polarity cause a no‑start even if it was brief?
Yes. Reverse polarity can damage fuses, diodes, or modules instantly. If any doubt exists, verify polarity events and test battery‑top fuses and ECU supply integrity before deeper diagnostics. [Elektroda, Mad Max, post #16711579]
What quick checks should I do on grounds, clamps, and fuses?
Verify tight, clean battery clamps. Inspect the negative lead to body and engine block for corrosion or a cracked eyelet. Open the battery‑top fuse block and check each fuse for hairline breaks or heat marks. Re-seat connectors. [Elektroda, robokop, post #16718867]
It cranks and I hear the fuel pump, but there’s no sustained ignition—why?
The immobilizer can authorize the key inconsistently, causing one ignition event after ~3 seconds on first crank, then a stall. This points back to immo/ECU authorization and power integrity, not the starter. [Elektroda, osliczka, post #16718805]
VCDS refuses to add/delete keys after the battery swap. What next?
Stabilize power first. Use a charger/maintainer during programming, confirm grounds, and clear immobilizer/ECU faults. If immo still shows “unauthorized,” resolve alarm cuts and supply errors before key adaptation attempts. [Elektroda, osliczka, post #16718805]
Does low voltage during cranking really cause electronic glitches?
Yes. Severe voltage sag during cranking or reconnect “chaff” can upset microcontroller behavior and checksums. Avoid sparking. Maintain a stable supply and allow modules to sleep before power changes. [Elektroda, tzok, post #16712251]
What’s a safe 3‑step process to rule out alarm and power issues first?
- Bridge the alarm’s cut wires to restore the original circuit temporarily.
- Clean/tighten battery clamps; check battery‑top fuses and ground eyelets.
- Key off, wait 10–30 s, then reconnect and re‑test start, scanning for 01177/17978. [Elektroda, CameR, post #16709453]