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Restoring Tonsil ZG40C Loudspeakers: Suggestions for Crossover Replacement & Soundproofing?

Mario_Gdynia 9276 17
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  • #1 16386104
    Mario_Gdynia
    Level 19  
    I warmly welcome. For maybe the fourth time in my life I fell into the hands of the cult ZG40C. Model as in a photo borrowed from the Internet.
    Restoring Tonsil ZG40C Loudspeakers: Suggestions for Crossover Replacement & Soundproofing?
    This time intact. No traces of loosening, bolts not moved. Perfect enclosures, loudspeakers all without any traces of curious fingers, etc., not faded. Suspensions all of course.
    The problem is that the coil of one of the woofers seems to be detached, while listening to it louder, you can hear clinking ... the power is correct. Before I start disassembling, I would like to repair and replace everything that may have deteriorated parameters due to time that is not mercifully running out of time.
    What do you recommend replacing the crossovers (capacitors), maybe modernizing them at all? Any suggestions?
    How to treat the soundproofing, there will probably be a sponge in the factory, leave it, attach it to the walls, which will initially stiffen and seal all joints?
    Due to one tweeter not working. Can I use domes with coils from the 80W version without any problems?
    I would like to talk to someone who dedicated a lot of heart to the restoration and possible modifications to improve the sound of these speakers.
    They are in such a state that they will definitely stay with me for a long time. I would like to connect them to a 2x10W tube amplifier. Regards and waiting for any suggestions.
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  • #2 16386218
    Włodzimierz Wojtiuk
    Level 32  
    Mario_Gdynia wrote:
    Before I get down to spinning

    Check tightness!
    Mario_Gdynia wrote:
    What do you recommend replacing with crossovers

    Capacitors, if necessary, recently I was pleasantly surprised by measuring the capacitance of 30-year-old electrolytes in Tonsil's switches.
    That's it for April 1 - seriously.
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  • #3 16390967
    Mario_Gdynia
    Level 19  
    Yes, they will be sealed inside with carpentry glue. I "opened" one of the speakers and the soundproofing made me wonder. In fact, I have a sponge and it is in quite good condition, it does not rub and does not crumble as in other Tonsil designs. It is characteristically bent, as if it separates the space between the woofer and the passive diaphragm. Does it have to remain this way, or can I profile it more precisely and line all the side walls to create a uniform space?
    As for the capacitors, that's right, I read that if they worked in the right conditions, they would retain their original parameters despite the passage of time.
  • #4 16393373
    Tomek Janiszewski
    Level 32  
    Mario_Gdynia wrote:
    The suspensions are all of course

    And that's why I value these so much rag :)
    Quote:
    The problem is that the coil of one of the woofers is detached, and when you listen to a louder one, you can hear jingling ...

    If it is a significantly detached coil (and not, for example, a current supply tape, bumping against a diaphragm or a lower spring), then I'm afraid that Fachman from the so-called regeneration the first thing he does is replace rags for sponges :evil: And because it is peeled off rags he finds it impossible without damaging them, and in his own way well-meaning . To have a potential customer in a few years, when the sponges crush and crumble to dust.
    However, I would check if it's not possible fix it without destroying the entire speaker. First, I would peel off the dust dome (or maybe it has come off and is buzzing, getting a new one if it is damaged at the same time is easy) and while squeezing the coil outside, he looked at the visible part of the winding (see http://www.trioda.com/forum/ download / file.php? id = 57720 & mode = view; there the reason for the failure of the GDN25 / 40 speaker was the detached dome). There is little chance that it will be possible to impregnate a sticky coil from the accessible side, e.g. with Epidian 5, but you can try, as long as not to seal the gap. If it turns out to be impossible - you have to disassemble the speaker yourself, or look for a reliable professional who will repair the speakers while keeping the old ones rags. You can at least peel them off yourself with toluene; then at least Fachman will have no excuse for that it's not possible do this. I did it with the burnt GDN16 / 15, but when I gave them to the so-called regeneration along with the recovered rags - they came back after many months ... on sponges, and also with non-original ones, Chinese vibrating systems :evil:
    Quote:
    What do you recommend replacing with crossovers (capacitors), maybeto modernize them at all? Any suggestions?

    Electrolytes are always worth replacing with MKP, but the factory crossover with a 6dB / oct filter for GDW (for the others - 12dB / oct) raises my suspicions. In this way, only a symbolic saving of elements was achieved (one tiny coil less compared to the full crossover 12dB / oct) and the GDWK was exposed to overload (despite the unnaturally high lower limit frequency), and as it turned out - one has already turned out to be sfajczył :( It was possible to switch the GDW with the capacitor not directly to the input terminals of the loudspeaker, but behind the high-pass filter in the midrange path (similarly to the "Altus"), then at least the lowest frequencies would be effectively cut from the signal fed to the GDWK. But you can also make a completely new crossover according to my design, made in real life:

    Restoring Tonsil ZG40C Loudspeakers: Suggestions for Crossover Replacement & Soundproofing?
    It is a 12dB / oct crossover with a cascade-series structure and crossover frequencies of 800Hz and 6kHz. It will ensure safe operation of GDWK, both thanks to 12dB / oct filtering and the use of a high-pass filter for the midrange path for initial signal filtration (again analogically to the Altus). The small number of coils is noteworthy, because the other two are replaced with parasitic inductances GDN25 / 40 and GD12 / 5, which with the assumed 12dB / oct filtering is possible only in the series structure. The measurements showed an excellent impedance stability throughout the entire frequency range (beyond the GDN resonance range, of course, strongly dampened by the considerable degree of filling the housing with a sponge), and smooth, surge-free voltage characteristics on each of the drivers. If during the listening you found that, for example, despite the above condition, there are too many medium tones - you can easily replace the GD12 / 5 with a less efficient GD12 / 8, but it only pays off if you manage to get an older version on rags. Otherwise, the GD12 / 5 would have to be suppressed with a resistor divider (while keeping the impedance of 4? As I guess you have one), which, however, would require correction of the value of RC elements shunting the midrange driver, and with a high degree of attenuation - also adding a third coil (less than L2) between filter and silencer (instead, the serial two-terminal R2-C4 will fall out and C5 will be equal to C6 in capacity).
    Quote:
    How to treat the soundproofing, there will probably be a sponge in the factory, leave it, attach it to the walls, which will initially stiffen and seal all joints?

    In such old bands, it is to be expected that it is primarily the sponge that will need to be replaced, or even sucked out with a vacuum cleaner :lol: The new sponge can be cut so that the individual sheets support each other. Gluing with e.g. butaprene would not be healthy, especially for foam suspensions, if others could not be used. Note that you are dealing with units with a passive diaphragm; there, much less damping material is used than in closed assemblies.
    Quote:
    Due to one tweeter not working. Can I use domes with coils from the 80W version without any problems?

    Almost 100% yes. I even heard the opinion that these are the same speakers, and the difference in power results from the adoption of an 18dB / oct filter instead of the standard 12dB / oct. Due to the 40W power, you can use it without fear and 12dB / oct.
    Quote:
    I would like to talk to someone who dedicated a lot of heart to the restoration and possible modifications to improve the sound of these speakers.

    Unfortunately, I never had them (it would be hard for me to fit them in Chaupi, and that's why I didn't buy them on the Volumen for PLN 100) but recently I made bands on the same set of speakers, only without UB.

    http://www.trioda.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=28167

    Quote:
    I would like to connect them to a 2x10W tube amplifier.


    Nu what you, by the only right one the theory is that you are about to burn the tweeters due to the amplifier distortion. Such loudspeakers are connected to at least the 2 X 250W amplifier, then the speakers are to be absolutely safe :twisted:

    best regards
    Tomek Janiszewski
  • #5 16393419
    398216 Usunięty
    Level 43  
    Tomek Janiszewski wrote:
    Well, what are you, according to the currently correct theory, you are about to burn the tweeters due to distortion
    I doubt if my colleague understands why there is a risk of damaging the tweeter with a distorted signal. Well, such a problem occurs in most transistor amplifiers, where when the amplitude of the input signal is too high at the pin, this cuts the signal peaks (due to the limited value of the voltage supplying it). The signal reaching the loudspeaker (and thus the tweeter) looks more like a rectangle, and this one, as we know, contains a large amount of high frequencies - as a result, the tweeter gets more (much more) power and thus possible damage.
    In the case of tube amplifiers, the distortion signal has a different shape - cutting the stitches also occurs, of course, but has a different (softer) character. The clipping of the peaks is less "sharp" and therefore does not generate super-harmonic frequencies as much as a transistor amplifier.
    This is how this case looks, simplified.
    Mario_Gdynia wrote:
    Does it have to remain this way, or can I profile it more precisely and line all the side walls to create a uniform space?
    I would have left that. Before the sound wave reaches the housing wall and bounces off it, it must pass through the sponge - and it is better (experience shows) when it still has some free space on its way.
    Mario_Gdynia wrote:
    As for the capacitors
    As for capacitors - I had the opportunity to see several times how the change of electrolytic BP with foil has an effect on sound (especially high frequencies) - after replacement the sound is "cleaner" and a bit "sharper" - simply more faithful than before.
    If you add the possibility of the electrolytic capacitors drying out over time - the replacement has its advantages - not only sound, but also economic (you don't have to worry about the tweeters in case of damage).
    Tomek Janiszewski wrote:
    Note that you are dealing with units with a passive diaphragm; there, much less damping material is used than in closed assemblies.
    Well, not really. MB housings are somewhere between BR and closed housings. Moreover, I believe that the engineers from Tonsil knew what they were doing with such and no other damping and in such quantity.
    Mario_Gdynia wrote:
    Can I use domes with coils from the 80W version without any problems?
    You can. The difference, even if it occurs, will be in favor of the sound. The actual power of both types of speakers is practically the same. As Kol. Tomek Janiszewski wrote, a sharper cut of the crossover was expected for the GDWK 9/80 - hence the difference in the given power - by the way, this marking means the power of the set in which the loudspeaker can operate with the assumed cutting parameters (frequency and type of filter).
  • #6 16393431
    Tomek Janiszewski
    Level 32  
    398216 Usunięty wrote:
    I doubt if my colleague understands why there is a risk of damaging the tweeter with a distorted signal. Well, such a problem occurs in most transistor amplifiers, where when the amplitude of the input signal is too high at the pin, this cuts the signal peaks (due to the limited value of the voltage supplying it). The signal reaching the loudspeaker (and thus the tweeter) looks more like a rectangle, and this one, as we know, contains a large amount of high frequencies - as a result, the tweeter gets more (much more) power and thus possible damage

    I have heard the above translation - but it does not convince me. Even in such an idealized example, the amplitude of individual harmonics quickly decreases with increasing frequency (inversely proportional to the order; the 11th harmonic would therefore transfer only 1/121 of the power of the fundamental component). And cutting the musical signal to a rectangle would give such a clatter that no one would be able to listen to it, and immediately used the volume control.
    The burning of the GDW is attributable to the faulty design of some amplifiers (no matter tube or solid state), which are excited under distortion conditions. Then all cut vertices become covered with long ones stockings, observable on an oscilloscope. And they are able to contain significant power in the band dangerous for GDW.
    Quote:
    MB housings are somewhere between BR and closed housings.

    I would say that the MB are the next level of development of loudspeaker enclosures, higher than the BR enclosures. The opening (with or without a tunnel) has, like the diaphragm, passive acoustic inertia, but it has no compliance (it would correspond to a passive diaphragm on a perfectly soft suspension). Thus, in contrast to it, it does not have its own resonance frequency, but only with the housing. The next level is multi-chamber housings; In the case of a two-chamber, the compliance of the main chamber and the inertia of the opening connecting the chambers are followed by the compliance of the second chamber, and finally the inertia of the opening connecting the unit with the environment. I do not intend to question the purposefulness of such and no other arrangement of the damping material, I only pointed out that, similarly to BR, the excess of damping material is more harmful than in compacts.
  • #7 16393454
    398216 Usunięty
    Level 43  
    Tomek Janiszewski wrote:
    I have heard the above translation - but it does not convince me.
    And me - yes. Of course - while the amplifier is by definition poor and falls into excitation, it is even easier to burn the tweeters. Nevertheless, most of the amplifiers produced today are quite resistant to such phenomena.
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  • #8 16403750
    Mario_Gdynia
    Level 19  
    Thank you, Colleagues, for such an extensive lecture, not only about my speakers. It is with great pleasure that I read and soak up the knowledge presented here on all topics. When it comes to restoring and regenerating the loudspeakers and the loudspeaker, I will take care of it personally. I will do it not quickly, but accurately and with the least possible impact on the deterioration of parameters. I couldn't join the topic sooner ... too much work. Yesterday I wanted to make a test listening under a tube amplifier, built on two AVT2754 kits. Tubes in the EL84 power amplifier in a pentode system. Last time I used the amplifier 2 months ago and I did not regret its power efficiency. Now there was a problem, the sound was "metallic", withdrawn , without audible bass. The amplifier is neatly twisted and I think I'll have time to look inside at night. I wonder if this is the effect of already used EL84 lamps? I replaced the Ecc83 in the preamplifier with a new one, because I had one. Maybe someone from honorable colleagues can make sure that it is the fault of the lamps? The power of the amplifier is only that sound.
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  • #9 16405724
    Tomek Janiszewski
    Level 32  
    Mario_Gdynia wrote:
    The last time I used the amplifier 2 months ago and I did not regret its power efficiency. Now there is a problem, the sound is "metallic", withdrawn, with no audible bass.

    But did you only notice it with the themed speakers? He stood idle for these 2 months and broke down by itself?
    Quote:
    I wonder if this is the effect of already used EL84 lamps?

    And what is easier to measure and compare the quiescent anode currents of both EL84s (or, what's even easier - voltage drops on cathode resistors?
    Quote:
    I replaced the Ecc83 in the preamplifier with a new one, because I had one.

    In fact, I do not like this preamplifier (although it does not necessarily have to be responsible for the shortcomings noticed). used cradle with L2 triode (according to http://serwis.avt.pl/manuals/AVT2754.pdf?sess_id=11ad178e296d3f42d3c78cb3a9aa3f02) but without auxiliary inter-cathode coupling, perfectly improving symmetry, especially for higher frequencies (it would not be possible with such a small number of tubes as that the cathode L1 is occupied by the serial CVT). In the case of EL84 lamps, a simple stage with shared load would be more than enough. It is not, after all gitarowiec in which one of the normal operating states is a strong overdrive of the output lamps when grid currents appear due to which the parameters of the invertor with shared load fly off into space, therefore only inverters with cathodic coupling are used there. If you want poke - you can try to rebuild the L2 triode stage into a shared load circuit, even keeping the existing boards. Use cradle it only makes sense when high control voltages are needed (eg in triode power amplifiers). More often, however, the transformers are responsible for the bad parameters of the amplifier: what are these?
  • #10 16405762
    Mario_Gdynia
    Level 19  
    In my free time, I read about the not very well-developed preamplifier circuit. After work, I will turn on the amplifier and see what happened.
    However, I will reject the theory about used tubes. Both power amps could not stop working properly at the same time, either the power supply or the mass issue. I will take measurements.
  • #11 16407070
    web69
    Level 33  
    Should you need a woofer in case the repair failed, I have one, brand new, not fitted.
  • #12 16410024
    Mario_Gdynia
    Level 19  
    The amplifier has already started to play, I managed to save 30 minutes and look inside. In fact, the culprit was the ground cable, which broke at the potentiometer, which unscrewed and stretched the cable when turning the knob.
    The loudspeakers sounded, the woofer that rattled during louder listening ... it stopped making noise ... it sounds nice, I don't know why ... maybe I turned it upside down? The dome in the tweeter has been replaced with the same as the factory one.
    Impressions? I expected the loudspeakers to play quietly from the 10 watts per channel, and here's a surprise. They play loud, the tweeter literally comes to the fore, stabbing in the ears, the midrange, or rather broadband ... screams. The bass player is trying to break out of the rest of the acoustic spectrum in a nice, rhythmic and low-pitched way. You can feel that the speakers are healthy despite the passage of time, which I cannot say from yesterday's listening session about the crossovers in these speakers. On the Technics SH 8020 equalizer, after 12 adjustments per channel, I managed to eliminate the "noise" of the tweeter, which actually has a rather low and midrange cut on the crossover, which would also need a -3dB attenuator in the loudspeaker. So in fact, maybe during holidays or other free time ... the crossovers land on the table and need to be reworked. So far my speakers are more "musical" on two GD30 / 50 plus GDWK from Tonsil. They play nicer to the ear.
  • #13 16412067
    Tomek Janiszewski
    Level 32  
    Mario_Gdynia wrote:
    the woofer that rattled on louder listening sessions ... it stopped making noise ... it sounds nice, I don't know why ... maybe it's because I turned it upside down?

    Indeed, after so many years, the vibrating system could center under its own weight. Now he will have twice as long to straighten up, and in the next several dozen years he will have to turn the speakers again :wink:
    Quote:
    I expected the loudspeakers to play quietly from the 10 watts per channel, and here's a surprise. They play loud

    The 25cm diameter of the main speaker does its job, however. It's not contemporary crap, where from a dozen or so cm you try to squeeze out hundreds of watts of power. Of course, the power that the speaker can convert almost exclusively into heat.
    Quote:
    the tweeter literally comes to the fore, stabbing in the ears,

    But maybe check what's in the crossover. ZTCP GDWK9 / 40 with an impedance of 4? was switched on by a capacitor with a capacity of only 2.2uF, so the lower limit frequency was ... 20kHz (in practice, the series inductance of the loudspeaker, whose reactance partially compensated for the capacitor reactance), played on the slope of the filter characteristic, and therefore with significant level attenuation. Maybe someone tweaked crossover by increasing the capacitance of the capacitor? With a slope of 6dB / oct it can be dangerous for the loudspeaker if you want to use the bands at full power.
    Quote:
    midrange, or rather broadband ... screams.

    This is typical normalnopasmowiec, used as a substitute in the role of the midrange, because there were no others. It was intended mainly for the then car receivers, next to the elliptical GD10-16 / 5. It is screaming probably because its efficiency stands out clearly above the others (GDN25 / 40 and GDWK9 / 40 - 91dB each, GD12 / 5 - 94dB). The original crossover did not use mufflers, with better or worse results, attempts were made to equalize the characteristics of the set by setting the upper limit for GDN below the lower limit in the midrange path. As a consequence, at least this is what I got from the simulation in PSPICE), the impedance characteristic of the band was very uneven: in certain frequency ranges it reaches 10?, which does not prevent it from dropping below the rated 4? for another range. Especially for tube amplifiers, such a situation is not favorable, so I do not like such a crossover.
    Quote:
    The bass player is trying to break out of the rest of the acoustic spectrum in a nice, rhythmic and low-pitched way.

    It is no coincidence that the MB circuits are appreciated, despite the fact that such a "dead" speaker takes up from the question space without adding its own power, but only using the power emitted by the back side of the active speaker diaphragm.
    Quote:
    Feel that the speakers are healthy despite the passage of time

    Old indestructible szmaciaki! :)
    Quote:
    On the Technics SH 8020 equalizer, after 12 adjustments per channel, I managed to eliminate the "noise" of the tweeter, which actually has a rather low and midrange cut on the crossover, which would also need a -3dB attenuator in the loudspeaker. So in fact, maybe during holidays or other free time ... the crossovers land on the table and need to be reworked.

    It would be advisable to check how the impedance of the original assembly behaves in real life, not only in the simulation (of course, after checking that the crossovers were not buried ) and the voltage on each speaker. It looks very bad in the simulation:
    http://www.trioda.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=9683&hilit=ZG40&start=30
    The last of the cited graphs concerns the 12dB / octet cascade crossover I made, but the real compatibility turned out to be quite good.
    Quote:
    So far my speakers are more "musical" on two GD30 / 50 plus GDWK from Tonsil. They play nicer to the ear.

    Something like stage bands. What partition did you choose, what order of filters? Do you understand that these are BR bands? I want to do something similar, but in a much more modest version, with one GDS30 / 30 and GDWT9 / 80 in each column. I already have unfinished front panels, and I will use boxes from previously made bands with vintage GD31-21 / 5 (which speakers were also in your area of interest). I anticipated such a multifunctional structure in advance, and finally it will be possible to make use of it:

    http://www.trioda.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=28110&start=105#p303526

    best regards
    Tomek
  • #14 16412498
    398216 Usunięty
    Level 43  
    Tomek Janiszewski wrote:
    Of course, the power that the speaker can convert almost exclusively into heat.
    Each loudspeaker, whether produced ten years ago or today, has an efficiency of several percent. Writing in this way what a colleague is misleading, implying that the difference is significant. The percentage is small - because it is only a few% of the difference.
    The difference in loudness is due to the fact that a loudspeaker with a larger diameter does not have to tilt so much from its rest position to generate a similar sound pressure than a loudspeaker with a smaller diameter.
    Tomek Janiszewski wrote:
    the second "dead" speaker takes up space without adding its power, but only using the power emitted by the back side of the active speaker diaphragm.
    This is again an inaccuracy. The passive diaphragm works on the same principle as the BR - it resonates by emitting a sound in this range (not strictly the resonant frequency, of course, but - just like the BR in a certain range above and below this frequency). Therefore, the phenomenon of resonance is used - the interaction of the rear side of the woofer diaphragm causes the passive diaphragm to resonate. If you took literally what a colleague wrote, you could conclude that this is not the case, and the MB is only set in motion by changing the pressure inside the housing - it is so, but below the resonant frequency of the woofer and (as in the BR) it does not affect the magnification the amount of radiation through the bass column - quite the opposite. Below the resonance frequency you can see (in the efficiency graph) and hear a clear decrease in the bass radiation, as both waves (speaker and MB) subtract.
    Tomek Janiszewski wrote:
    I want to do something similar, but in a much more modest version, with one GDS30 / 30 and GDWT9 / 80 in each column.

    I advise against such a combination. As everyone knows, the GDS30 / 30 plays in the medium and high range (especially) very "aggressive / hard". After adding GDWT, this phenomenon will only get worse. Unless you want to cut these frequencies with a crossover - then the GDS will sound comparable to the GD, but GDWT will not be able to give back enough power to compensate for the decrease in this range (medium and high - especially medium) frequencies. So an additional mid-tone speaker would be needed - similar to the Author's ZG40c, but with greater efficiency. Without it, you will either burn the GDWT speaker with too much power, or there will be a hole in the characteristics.
    The medium frequencies emitted by the GDS are extremely unpleasant for the ear, so cutting higher (above the medium frequencies) will make this range (and, as you know, especially important for music and the most critical for hearing), "flashy" - too "sharp".
    The GDS is a loudspeaker intended especially for the sound of guitars - but in this application not everyone agrees with its unnatural sound. It is true that "stage" loudspeakers were made on these speakers, but everyone who heard them knows how they sound ... There were also loudspeakers where they were joined (two GDS30 / 30) through a simple crossover, an additional GDWT, but cut very high - " "it only made up for the loss of GDS efficiency in the range above 6-8 kHz.
    Both without and with GDWT, these loudspeakers sounded similarly bad / unpleasant; the only difference is a bit more high frequencies.
  • #15 16422241
    Tomek Janiszewski
    Level 32  
    398216 Usunięty wrote:
    Each loudspeaker, whether produced ten years ago or today, has an efficiency of several percent. Writing in this way what a colleague is misleading, implying that the difference is significant. The percentage is small - because it is only a few% of the difference.

    These few percent, however, make a big difference when the loudspeaker's efficiency, as you admitted above, is also measured in single percentages. In the mid-1970s, the 16cm speaker had 15W - and efficiency of over 90dB, today, and several dozen watts at this size, it does not shock, but also does not cause embarrassment, the efficiency of 85dB or even less.
    Quote:
    The difference in loudness is due to the fact that a loudspeaker with a larger diameter does not have to tilt so much from its rest position to generate a similar sound pressure than a loudspeaker with a smaller diameter.

    And a large deflection causes, among others the necessity to use a long coil, only a small part of which fits into the slot of the magnetic core, and only it drives the diaphragm. The rest of the coil is just a resistor in which the power supplied to the loudspeaker is lost. Hence the degradation in efficiency when trying to get high power from a small diaphragm.
    Quote:
    The passive diaphragm works on the same principle as the BR - it resonates by emitting a sound in this range (not strictly the resonant frequency, of course, but - just like the BR in a certain range above and below this frequency).

    The main difference is that, unlike the opening, the passive membrane has a certain, significant compliance (in other words, it is very soft, e.g. due to the lack of a lower spring), but its mass is greater than the acoustic mass of the opening with a tunnel with even the largest real depth and the same diameter. Thanks to this, it is possible to obtain a sufficiently low natural frequency of the MB housing, with a diaphragm size that would not be provided by any hole. And the larger the diameter (of the passive membrane or the opening), the greater its impact on the sound of the loudspeaker.
    Quote:
    Therefore, the phenomenon of resonance is used - the interaction of the rear side of the woofer diaphragm causes the passive diaphragm to resonate. If you understood literally what a colleague wrote, you could conclude that this is not the case, and the MB is only set in motion by changing the pressure inside the housing - it is,

    My point is that w and BR, and in MB, the energy lost in enclosures enclosed in a damping material is used.
    Quote:
    but below the resonant frequency of the woofer and (as in the BR) it does not increase the amount of radiation through the bass column - quite the opposite. Below the resonance frequency you can see (in the efficiency graph) and hear a clear decrease in the bass radiation, as both waves (speaker and MB) subtract.

    Granted, but also nowhere have I claimed that thanks to a hole or a diaphragm, it is possible to effectively radiate power in the range below the resonance, even though the speaker diaphragm in these conditions rages.
    Quote:
    I advise against such a combination. As everyone knows, the GDS30 / 30 plays in the medium and high range (especially) very "aggressive / hard".

    I bought these speakers back in the early 90's and they have been useless since then. I'm just curious what you can do with them. After all, I already have boxes, it remains to add to them interchangeable front panels with a set of speakers, a crossover and a BR tunnel. It's known that Versailles it will not (I have already measured how hopelessly high QTS have; this is definitely different than, for example, GD25 / 40/3 used in "Altus", also highly specific)
    Quote:
    After adding GDWT, this phenomenon will only get worse. Unless you want to cut these frequencies with a crossover - then the GDS will sound comparable to the GD,

    The cut must be: if only because I would not like the impedance of the band to drop to half for high frequencies, when GDWT is turned on (GD, unlike GDN, have a short coil with a low parasitic inductance and turning them on would have such an effect). The only question is how high this cut will be.
    Quote:
    but in turn GDWT will not be able to release enough power to compensate for the decrease in this range (medium and high - especially medium) frequencies. So an additional mid-tone speaker would be needed - similar to the Author's ZG40c,

    Here (due to the features of the main speaker) it would be more appropriate to compare it with the ZGP series units, where the GD16 / 20, GD20 / 10 or GD20 / 20 were cast in this role, and the larger of the two GDW plays the role of the "midrange". I find it heavy triumph of form over content so at this stage I reject the insertion of the additional say GD12 / 5. I will listen to what will come out on two speakers (GDS and GDWT), and then maybe I will consider this possibility.
    Quote:
    Without it, you will either burn the GDWT speaker with too much power, or there will be a hole in the characteristics.

    I'll try not to burn GDWT. Even if we consider that with the 12dB / oct filter it should have the old designation (GDWT9 / 40 and not GDWT9 / 80), the power of the unit will not exceed 30W (that's how much GDS has) So it should withstand cutting at 4kHz, at least that's what the manufacturer declares. So the GDS will have to be used for this frequency, and what will come out of it - I will see for myself.
    Quote:
    The medium frequencies emitted by the GDS are extremely unpleasant for the ear, so cutting higher (above the medium frequencies) will make this range (and, as you know, especially important for music and the most critical for hearing), "flashy" - too "sharp".

    And it will have to be that way. And when it turns out to be so unpleasant for me - I will always be able to sell almost unused speakers to somebody szarpidrutowi ; probably right away castrate use a razor blade from a tweeter funnel to make them sound less unnatural. :cry:
    Quote:
    It is true that "stage" loudspeakers were made on these speakers, but anyone who heard them knows how they sound ...

    Of course I would definitely prefer the GD30 / 15 (despite being twice as powerful); if you believe Witort, they were very much appreciated at that time. But at the turn of the political system, you bought with a kiss of the hand what happened. Quite recently, I bought u Florek on volume a couple of dream GD30 / 15 but I was disappointed right after unpacking them. The marking was the same as above, but the diaphragm was there as hard as breath in this respect, they did not differ in anything from the previously purchased (but in the store) GDS30 / 30. The design of the diaphragm itself was also apparently identical in both cases, except of course the lack of a funnel in the GD30 / 15. The free resonance frequency was also very similar (in both cases - close to 70Hz, as much as the GD30 / 30 should have without "S" in the designation), while the GD30 / 15 (not being a GDN!) Should boast a fr equal to 50Hz. Now I have a suspicion bordering on the certainty that Florkowi two burnt or torn GD30 / 15 fell into his hands, so he "regenerated" them by inserting what was available now, i.e. vibrating systems from typical gitarowców GD30 / 30 or GD30 / 50, and the markings on the magnet yoke did not change, because what for? Of course, I will be able to try these speakers in place of the GDS30 / 30, but (regardless of the fact that in this situation it is difficult to expect better results compared to the GDS30 / 30) it would be pain in the butt as the alleged GD30 / 15 have 15 ohms instead of 8 ohms and in this case the existing GDWT would have to be switched on via a 6.8 ohm series resistor or the autotransformer in place of the coil in the jumper.
    Quote:
    There were also loudspeakers where an additional GDWT was added via a simple crossover, but it was cut very high - it only "made up" for the loss of GDS efficiency in the range above 6-8 kHz.

    Here, a high cut resulted from the fact that one GDWT had to handle two GDSs. This variant is not an option for me for an obvious reason: I do not have a second pair of GDS, and at least I would like to squeeze both GDS30 / 30 and the alleged GD30 / 15 into one team (assuming that it is indeed GD30 / 15 that is evenpower, they will then be optimally used, creating a unit with a power of 45W and impedance close to 5? ;) There would be no room for it in our boxes anyway, due to the stiffening rungs to which the front walls are screwed.
    Quote:
    Both without and with GDWT, these loudspeakers sounded similarly bad / unpleasant; the only difference is a bit more high frequencies

    It will be as it will be. I am not going to buy one more pair of speakers (even 12 "Ticoons). Earlier I was tempted by a slightly smaller 10-inch size (tempted szmacianym although with a relatively hard suspension) and I have also managed to convince myself that their QTS is similarly unfavorably high as in the case of the GDS30 / 30. It will probably be the same in the case of larger speakers from the same company, although I may be wrong. I also have a pair of 8-ohm speakers on szmacianym suspensions bearing the designation GDN25 / 40/3 (i.e. those used in smaller and medium-sized "Altuses") and I could use them in BR sets by choosing a set of e.g. GD12 / 5-8? and any modern domes, but these GDNs ( purchased before I managed to buy the NOS GDN25 / 40-4? ;) have membranes zapaprane it has some acrylic in black (at least the seller said) and their parameters may differ significantly from the catalog ones. So let me start with what raises the slightest suspicion, i.e. the NOS GDS30 / 30.
  • #16 16422403
    398216 Usunięty
    Level 43  
    I do not want to comment on your statements relating to my (taken out of the context of the entire statement) quotes. You probably (I hope so) misunderstood, or didn't want to understand - no matter.
    As for the GD30 / 15 - it is a twin (as far as the diaphragm is concerned) with the GD30 / 50 and GDS30 / 30 (they were also in the short GDS30 / 50 series - I even bought them in Tonsil's company store - when it was still a real Tonsil). The difference in the parameters was small (I compared 30/15 with 30/30 in the lower ranges. The resonance for 30/15 was actually lower than the catalog for 30/30, but I don't know if it was a "tolerance limit", because my 30/30 had a similar fr.).
    I also did not write that you should use 12/5 in your loudspeakers - I wrote about the midrange driver - without any indication of what it would be like. The more that even this 12/5 does not fit due to lower (much lower) efficiency.
    Tomek Janiszewski wrote:
    assuming that it is indeed GD30 / 15, even in terms of power they will be optimally used, creating a band with a power of 45W and impedance close to 5? ;)
    . The power of the speaker system determines the power of the subwoofer. Where did you get the 45 W - I don't know (I mean, I guess, but I would pour it into believing that you were wrong than that you didn't know it). I also don't know where did you get these 5 ohms? I guess there was no such resistance in the "series of types" of these speakers?
    Besides - this is the subject of Kol. Mario_Gdynia - maybe enough discussing your speakers? The more that you do not have them yet, and the topic is about restoring the ZG40C speakers.
  • #17 16423961
    Tomek Janiszewski
    Level 32  
    398216 Usunięty wrote:
    I do not want to comment on your statements relating to my (taken out of the context of the entire statement) quotes. You probably (I hope so) misunderstood, or didn't want to understand - no matter

    You get irritated unnecessarily. I wasn't going to offend you, I was just figuring out what could be done with what I already have.
    Quote:
    (I compared 30/15 with 30/30 in the lower ranges. The resonance for 30/15 was actually lower than the catalog for 30/30, but I don't know whether it was a "tolerance limit", because my 30/30 had a similar fr. ).

    In publications from the 1970s, 50Hz for GD30 / 15 and 70Hz for GD30 / 30 were given. This is a big difference, rather well beyond the tolerance range. Anyway, thanks at least for the info, that the diaphragm appearance in both of these speakers did not differ.
    Quote:
    I also did not write that you should use 12/5 in your loudspeakers - I wrote about the midrange driver - without any indication of what it should be

    It would definitely not be a sponge such as GDM18 / 80. For obvious reasons. And by using a high-efficiency horn midrange driver specially designed for stage groups, I would multiply the value of the ensemble. Like after filling up a Trabant :wink: Therefore, apart from the GD12 / 5, I would also see the GD20 / 10 in this role, even though it does not match the efficiency of the GDS30 / 30.
    Quote:
    The more that even this 12/5 does not fit due to lower (much lower) efficiency.

    This one has 94dB - is the difference from 2 to 3dB to the disadvantage really that much? The GD12 / 8 (on soft suspension) would be completely wrong. This one has a ZTCP of just 90dB.
    Quote:
    The power of the speaker system determines the power of the subwoofer. Where did you get the 45 W from - I don't know

    It's simple: I was considering what would result from the parallel connection of my GDS30 / 30-8? and GD30 / 15-15?. Indeed 45W is approximate, in this case the maximum power of the ensemble would be when one of these loudspeakers is operating at its full allowable power. More specifically - GD30 / 15-15? When 15W is emitted on it, then in the GDS30 / 30 connected in parallel, 15W × (15? / 8? ;) = 28,125W. In total - 43.125W and that would be the team's power too. Of course, the consequences resulting from the difference in characteristics, especially in the range of higher tones, as well as placing two loudspeakers of the same dimensions in one housing, but powered by different powers (one would expect that the one powered by a lower power would behave in an intermediate manner between a normally powered loudspeaker and a passive diaphragm) . Doubts become so much that you can stop at the above considerations.
    Quote:
    I also don't know where did you get these 5 ohms?

    From 8? and 15? parallel connection. 5.2 ohms comes out with a hook.
  • #18 16424152
    Mario_Gdynia
    Level 19  
    Gentlemen, first of all ... I have loudspeakers, otherwise I would not describe my listening experience :) I can see that each of you has a wide knowledge, but you are a bit off the topic I assumed. What I have done so far and what has translated into improved sound:
    -I improved the soundproofing, instead of a "rolled" sponge, I lined it nicely in the middle of the column, preceded by a thorough sealing of the column with good carpentry glue.
    - I eliminated the "farting" of the woofer by screwing it in the opposite direction and gentle, one-time tension of the diaphragm, now it sounds very well
    -I replaced the dome with the voice coil in the tweeter for the original.
    - I changed the wiring inside to thicker and pure copper.
    The column sounded much better, especially the bass section, it was better audible and more rhythmic. Nevertheless, the equalizer minimizes the frequencies by about 2dB from 600Hz to 6kHz. Next week a friend will lend me passive membranes, which maybe not at the factory, but during the PRL era, in some service center they were weighted with some squares, probably made of felt. Probably to change the resonant frequency. I am curious how it will play.

Topic summary

The discussion revolves around restoring Tonsil ZG40C loudspeakers, focusing on issues related to a detached woofer coil and the condition of crossovers and soundproofing. Participants suggest checking the tightness of components and the condition of capacitors, noting that older electrolytic capacitors may still function well. The soundproofing material, typically sponge, is discussed, with suggestions to maintain or improve its placement for better acoustic performance. The author shares their restoration efforts, including sealing the enclosure with carpentry glue, adjusting the woofer, replacing the tweeter dome, and upgrading internal wiring, which resulted in improved sound quality, particularly in the bass range. The conversation also touches on amplifier performance and potential issues with signal distortion affecting tweeter longevity.
Summary generated by the language model.
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