Skoda Octavia I 1.9 TDI 110 KM - Gearbox pillow or glue screws?

Hello. I have a question whether to glue the threaded connection between the cushion and the gearbox cover (the paw on the left side is under the air filter).
I am waiting for the replacement of the gearbox bracket (the thread in the paw is damaged and the screw does not hold) and when installing a new one, I wonder whether to stick the M12 screws to the paw or it is enough to tighten these elements?

I have never given glue and no one has ever lost the box. Rather, the places where something turns are glued and there may be a moment that loosens the bolt.

ok thanks for the answer, I preferred to ask because I have blue locite already out of date, but when I checked on one screw with a nut, it holds very well and I thought to give a small drop on the paw screw (but I don't know exactly how this glue will work when it is screwed in the paw or later when unscrewing it will not damage my thread), only that unscrewing one bolt was lubricated with something, and I do not know, the other unfortunately twisted. However, there is really nothing to use glue, you can overdo it .
Tell me, buddy, one more thing, is it a big problem to remove the screws that are attached to the box? and with what moment to tighten the M12 bolts (or just tighten it tightly, of course not exaggerating) because when I asked the guy on the back of the car, he said that the bolts should be glued and tightened, but I don't like this version too much.

I also do not give glue.

ok thanks for confirming the information.

I mentioned some of these paws. It just corrodes so that the screw will break off and not move, or it will come out with the thread and every time the clutch is replaced, you have to be sure that there may be a "new" foot needed.

And so, taking the opportunity, I have one question, it will also be useful information for other car users, namely, are these M12 fine-threaded bolts, if there is a problem with unscrewing, you need to heat up a little with a burner? I would say that, I unscrewed the rattle with resistance without any problems, while the other one I could knock with a hammer, because when unscrewing it twisted almost flush with the edge of the paw and then punching different ends of the wrench on the screw - practically without any chance. How does it look like with unscrewing these screws, if there is a problem? rust removers, Wd 40 nothing works, maybe someone has a way for such stubborn screws? I will add that I used to have a rust remover from Lidl - and it was really good at replacing the discs and pads, it did a great job.

Added after 6 [minutes]:

ociz wrote:

I mentioned some of these paws. It just corrodes so that the screw will break off and not move, or it will come out with the thread and every time the clutch is replaced, you have to be sure that there may be a "new" foot needed.

You mean there is a problem with replacing the foot itself, which is attached to the gearbox? because I do not know whether to do it or order someone, tomorrow the paw is to come by mail and I have the box attached only to the central hole, the reserve one (I threaded it properly on M 12 x 1.25) and those two screws practically do not hold and I do not know if if anything, it will keep to get to the workshop.

The temperature does the job, but unfortunately not the case. Such a piece of aluminum conducts too well and gives off heat. Rust removers will probably do nothing.
The only thing you can do to protect the bolt is by lubricating it with some acid-free grease and not a copper one.

ociz wrote:

The temperature does the job, but unfortunately not the case. Such a piece of aluminum conducts too well and gives off heat. Rust removers will probably do nothing.
The only thing you can do to protect the bolt is by lubricating it with some acid-free grease and not a copper one.

Can you treat it with ceramic grease? when assembling the whole?

Added after 14 [hours] 44 [minutes]:

Gentlemen, I have one more question, I already have a new paw, is there a problem with unscrewing these screws from the M 10 paw itself? gently tap them with a hammer and lightly try to move?

Today I am doing it, i.e. twisting the paw itself. I have a question for my fellow experienced mechanics, is there a problem with unscrewing the M10 screws from the paw? Have you had a case of a screw being twisted? I do not know what material this M10 screw, which secures the paw, enters? And I also have a question whether to twist it, a colleague above wrote that acid-free grease (I still have Bosch Superfit TO 100 grease from the brakes, should it be suitable? Or I still have a ceramic one) please let me know. of course I will repay you for that.
Thanks in advance.

Today I even did it because the Golf IV happened to replace the clutch. The paw also did not survive, instead of the threads, only white powder spilled out.

slaw777 wrote:

Is there a problem with unscrewing the M10 screws

There is no problem with breaking. You need to first unscrew the top and lower the chest a little so that the upper 2 can be removed, they are screwed into the chest and the lower one can also break sometimes, but fortunately it stays in the paw.
You should not lubricate it, so that it does not unscrew, but it is better to protect the thread against corrosion than to replace the paws almost every time. Both the ceramic one and the brake one will be safe for aluminum.

Both the ceramic one and the brake one will be safe for aluminum. [/ Quote]


Regarding the ceramic, I found out again that it dries up after some time and when unscrewing such a screw, it rubs on the thread when unscrewing and damages the thread ... so I would rather opt for Bosch's superfit TO 100 - it says on the tube that the lubricant is acid-free, which would be approx.

When it comes to lithium grease, e.g. CX -80 universal, would it also be appropriate?

Added after 17 [hours] 56 [minutes]:

You should not lubricate it, so that it does not unscrew, but it is better to protect the thread against corrosion than to replace the paws almost every time. Both the ceramic one and the brake one will be safe for aluminum. [/ Quote]
Tell me one more thing, do these threads for screwing the cushion itself to the body should also be slightly greased? Because there are some vibrations there, but it is probably better to slightly lubricate it for the future, at most after some time I will check the connections or hold.

Added after 6 [hours] 31 [minutes]:

There is no problem with breaking. You need to first unscrew the top and lower the chest a little so that the upper 2 can be removed, they are screwed into the chest and the lower one can also break sometimes, but fortunately it stays in the paw.


Listen, buddy, these two upper screws are through?, You need to clean the threads on the outside with a brush and spray with a rust remover for easier unscrewing, right?

What rust remover do you use that you can recommend? because I don't know if WD 40 can handle it

It is lubricated when screwing in the screw with anaerobic adhesive for detachable connections and then there is no problem. The glue not only protects the screw against unscrewing, but also protects the thread against corrosion. Ceramic inventions are for lambda probes, collector screws or glow plugs.

Hmm ... you can see that each of my colleagues has a different version of how to make such a repair ... for PLN 40 he will do it (only after Christmas ), it is not certain what lubricant he will use on the screws, knowing life he will probably use copper ...

To tell the truth, the worst thing is, I am afraid if I screw these M10 screws, as if they are screwed through, then clean the end of the thread, lubricate the WD-40 and gently unscrew, there is no philosophy theoretically.

Gentlemen, how complicated is this paw exchange? Maybe one of you can describe to me the method of disassembling the paw of the box. Gathering all this information together it is like this:
1. I unscrew the 2 upper paw screws,
2. I lower the crates and take out those unscrewed screws from point 1.
3. Then I unscrew the lower screw from the paw, it can stay in the paw ?, a pin on this screw - counter from the two nuts and unscrew it,
4. I clean the threads thoroughly with a wire brush and then install the new paw, carefully tightening the screws that attach the paw to the box.
5. I lift the crates to the position where the cushion meets the paw.
5. After cleaning the wire brush of the fine threads of the M 12 screws, install the pad to the paw. Based on loctite glue or Bosch acid-free brake grease.

Would any of you have any other comments, I will be happy to listen and be grateful for them.

After Christmas, I do it, but I'm just wondering about the M10 screws that hold the paw itself, will there be a problem with their unscrewing, it's good to spray with a rust remover, because there is no other advice for this.

I wanted to take the car to the garage, but I found that it was a bad idea, because the cushion stays on only one screw, I threaded the middle hole on M12 x 1.25 and it would be a big risk to drive or tow it, the first hole in the road and I have a box on asphalt.

What rust removers do you recommend and should Loctite lubricate the entire thread or just a few coils at the top of the bolt?

robokop wrote:

It is lubricated when screwing in the screw with anaerobic adhesive for detachable connections and then there is no problem. The glue not only protects the screw against unscrewing, but also protects the thread against corrosion. Ceramic inventions are for lambda probes, collector screws or glow plugs.

Listen, and when it comes to this glue, for example Locttite, give a few drops from the bottom of the thread to lubricate the entire thread or from the top for a few turns is enough (it will also be tight).
Tell me more, buddy, about those M 10 screws that are screwed in the box, or is it enough to spray it with a rust remover and wait some time and there should be no problem with unscrewing it? although it's a 10 hardness screw, it shouldn't be a problem.

I am already after replacing the paws and the pillow made on my own, it's good that I did not go to the mechanic when the pillow was mounted only on one central hole, because it would not be able to withstand it, with the first hole I would have crates on the asphalt and then there would be costs. It is a pity that on such a forum people who have knowledge and experience answer so casually, I understand that some of them have gained knowledge and experience for years and therefore do not want to share.
I have no complaints, but some of the answers could be more descriptive, especially for new colleagues, who exchange a pillow for the first time.
I consider the topic closed, points are distributed and I sincerely thank you for your help.